Splendid Sarajevo: Europe's Best Kept Secret ~ by Maryam Manteghi
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Splendid Sarajevo
Europe's Best Kept Secret ~ by Maryam Manteghi
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February 2005

You don’t have to be an adventurer to appreciate the unique beauties of Bosnia and Herzegovina. While the name evokes memories of a war-torn past, today’s BiH is the country all the ex-humanitarian workers come back to visit again and again. Bosnia’s natural beauties and wonders are unparalleled. A country of rugged hills, mountains, rivers and lakes, eco-tourism has become all the rage here with opportunities for river rafting, mountain climbing, skiing and paragliding in an untouched, pristine natural wonderland. For more information about eco-tourism in Bosnia, check http://www.greenvisions.ba/gv/ an eco-tourism NGO founded by an American who fell in love with, and escaped to Bosnia 13 years ago. 

Bosnia’s capital, Sarajevo, does not disappoint. A city nestled in a valley, surrounded by hills and mountains; it’s the cool tourists’ new hot spot. The first thing that hits you when you arrive in Sarajevo is the feeling. An intangible, yet very real feeling that you definitely want to come back here or that you definitely don’t want to leave. Sarajevo was built by the Ottoman Empire in the fifteenth century and re-visited by Austro-Hungarian architects in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Following that, 50 years of “happy” socialism created a city that is a mix and mesh of different and sometimes contradictory styles and buildings.  Hailed as the Jerusalem of Europe, Sarajevo houses Catholic churches, Muslim mosques, a synagogue and Orthodox churches all within walking distance of each other. 

No other European city can boast such a thing and really, as you walk down the main street Ferhadija, and pass the beautiful Serb Orthodox church, the majestic Cathedral and the old Turkish-style Begova Mosque, all within five minutes, you realize that Sarajevo is Europe’s best kept secret. Sarajevo was home to a synagogue before any other city in Western Europe and, most incredibly, in a city that survived three and a half years of ethnic war, all of these structures remain unscathed.


 
Begova Mosque
 
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The main walking street is Ferhadija and it begins at the Eternal Flame, a fire that is kept burning at all times commemorating the then Yugoslavia’s triumph over fascism after WWII. As you begin walking, the buildings are a mix of communist and Austro-Hungarian style. A bit further down, you hit Slatko Cose, or Sweet Corner full of pastry shops and cafes that sell traditional Bosnian pastries and Turkish coffee drunk with the traditional Turkish delight. Suddenly you are in a different world. This is Sarajevo’s old town and where the city is at the height of it’s’ charm. The road turns to cobblestones and the architecture changes completely into classic Turkish style. You pass the grand Begova mosque with its beautiful courtyard and hundred year-old trees. Do not pass up this opportunity to visit. Women need to cover their heads but the guards are extremely nice and a kerchief symbolically covering some hair will do. If you don’t have your own, the tourist office inside the courtyard will give you one.

Don’t forget to eat the traditional Bosnian dishes of cevapi and burek. Cevapi consists of small beef kebabs on some very tasty grilled bread. Burek is filo pastry filled with meat, cheese and potato. Bosnian cuisine is very good and available mainly in the old town.

I’m a café girl at heart and Sarajevo is a café lover’s city par excellence. Cafes abound here and, in summertime, the place to be is in one of the city’s many sidewalk cafes. Stopping for coffee is the national past-time and the best way to make friends and meet people. Sarajevans are warm and friendly people and are proud and happy to tell you about their country and show you around. Don’t miss Park Princeva Restaurant that sits atop the city offering a breathtaking view of Sarajevo as well as some traditional musical entertainment. Don’t forget that the 1984 Winter Olympics were held in Sarajevo and if you are a skier, I highly recommend the skiing facilities at any of the resorts, (Bjelasnice, Jahorina and Igman) situated just outside of the city. Skiing and winter sports are a huge attraction here and quite cheap in comparison with other winter tourism locations. www.sarajevo-tourism.com will tell you all you need to know to plan your trip.
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Cultural life in Sarajevo is hopping all year round and a veritable treasure chest of talent. In summer, the world-class Sarajevo Film Festival www.sff.ba hosts stars from all over the world. Ten years ago, right after the war, there was one movie theatre with 100 people to mark the opening night of the festival. Today, the film festival boasts a venue of multiple theatres, media from all over the world and an ever-increasing crowd of international festival goers. Bascarcija noce (Bascarsija nights) www.bascarsijskenoci.ba is another festival of dance and music held in summer in the old town. It includes international orchestras like the Vienna Philharmonic as well as the Sarajevo Philharmonic and Folk music and dance groups. In winter, there is the Sarajevo Jazz Festival www.jazzfest.ba and the Sarajevo Winter Festival www.sarajevskazima.ba

Getting Around: www.sarajevo-tourism.com has all the information regarding busses, trains and planes in English.

Sarajevo is just your first stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina, there’s lots more places to see and visit. My next article will be about Mostar, the Mediterranean jewel of the Balkans and one of the most beautiful cities I have ever visited. Stay tuned for more Bosnian Delights!

To contact Maryam Click Here
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