El Salvador’s Stunning Comeback

Some places are known for their history, others for their landscapes, and some—like El Salvador, which spent nearly 30 years grappling with escalating violence from the early 1990s to the mid-2010s—become known for their struggles. For years, this small Central American nation was a symbol of violence, instability, and survival. A place where even stepping outside could feel like a gamble.

But recently, something remarkable has happened. Almost overnight, the country synonymous with danger started making headlines for a different reason. The homicide rates plummeted, the tourism industry revived, and a new wave of expats began arriving—many of them from the United States, drawn in by promises of opportunity, security, and the kind of fresh start that few places can truly offer.

So, how did El Salvador go from being a place people fled from to a place they now seek out? The answer is part politics, part policy, and part something less tangible—a shift in perception, in reputation, in the very DNA of what El Salvador represents.

The Shadows of the Past

For years, El Salvador was known by a grim statistic: the highest homicide rate in the world. At its peak in 2015, the country recorded an astonishing 103 murders per 100,000 people, a number that placed it above active war zones. Entire neighborhoods were ruled not by local governments but by gangs—most notably MS-13 and Barrio 18—whose control over communities was absolute. Their influence dictated everything from who could enter certain areas to which businesses were allowed to operate. Extortion, kidnappings, and violent clashes were the norm, and for the average Salvadoran, the daily routine revolved around survival.

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This violence wasn’t random but the aftershock of a civil war that had left deep scars. When the official cease-fire came in 1992, it didn’t bring peace or prosperity, just a different kind of war. Gangs filled the power vacuum left by weak institutions, and corruption at every level of government allowed the crisis to spiral. By the 2000s, El Salvador had become a place where hope was in short supply, and moving away was often the only viable future. Then, in a move that seemed almost cinematic in its boldness, a political newcomer stepped onto the scene.

The Bukele Effect

Enter Nayib Bukele, a young, social media-savvy politician who, in 2019, won the presidency with a promise that resonated deeply: safety. While past leaders had attempted to negotiate with gangs or deploy half-hearted security measures, Bukele took an entirely different approach. His government implemented a state of emergency in 2022, suspending constitutional rights, deploying thousands of police and soldiers, and conducting one of the largest mass arrests in modern history. More than 83,000 suspected gang members were rounded up and imprisoned, their strongholds dismantled almost overnight.

The results were staggering. By 2024, the homicide rate had dropped to 2.4 per 100,000, making El Salvador one of the safest countries in Latin America—a transformation so dramatic that many outside observers struggled to believe it. For the first time in decades, people could walk their streets without fear, businesses could operate without paying protection money, and a long-lost sense of normalcy had returned. As safety increased, something else happened—El Salvador started to attract a new kind of resident: the expat.

A New Kind of Destination

For most of its modern history, El Salvador was a place people fled, seeking safety and opportunity elsewhere. Now, it’s a place they’re choosing—drawn not by necessity, but by desire and possibility. Some arrive for the investment potential, others for the lifestyle, and many simply because they sense something stirring. A nation on the rise and a rare chance to be part of a transformation in motion.

A Crypto and Tech Hub

El Salvador made history in 2021 when it became the first country in the world to adopt Bitcoin as legal tender. The move was met with skepticism from financial institutions but created a new kind of buzz around the country. Suddenly, El Salvador wasn’t just a nation recovering from crime, it was a potential tech hub, a place where digital nomads and blockchain entrepreneurs could find government-backed support for their ideas.

The coastal town of El Zonte, now famously known as Bitcoin Beach, became a testing ground for cryptocurrency transactions, with businesses accepting Bitcoin for everything from coffee to hotel stays. The government’s zero capital gains tax on Bitcoin made it even more attractive for investors, some of whom relocated entirely, drawn by the promise of low taxes and an economy willing to embrace digital finance.

Affordability Meets Opportunity

Beyond the crypto scene, El Salvador’s affordability is a major draw. In contrast to the rising costs of life in the U.S. and Europe, this is a country where money stretches further. A modern apartment in the capital of San Salvador rents for as little as $500 a month, a meal at a local restaurant costs just a few dollars, and healthcare—often a concern for retirees and remote workers—is accessible and inexpensive.

For many, moving to El Salvador isn’t just about saving money, it’s about gaining access to a lifestyle that would be out of reach elsewhere. Living near the beach, dining out regularly, and having the financial freedom to start a business or pursue passion projects is something that, in wealthier nations, is often reserved for the elite. Here, it’s within reach.

Natural Paradise Rediscovered

El Salvador’s reputation for danger long overshadowed its natural beauty, but now, with safety concerns fading, the country’s landscapes are stepping into the spotlight.

The Pacific coastline is a major draw, especially for surfers who have long known what the world is only now discovering, that El Salvador has some of the best waves in the Americas. The government’s Surf City initiative has poured millions into infrastructure, making previously hard-to-reach beaches more accessible, and transforming coastal villages into expat-friendly retreats.

But the ocean is just the beginning. The country’s volcanic landscapes, lush jungles, and colonial towns offer an unmatched sense of adventure. Hiking the Santa Ana Volcano, swimming in the sapphire waters of Coatepeque Lake, or wandering the charming streets of Suchitoto are experiences that, until recently, many foreigners wouldn’t have dared to consider. Now, they’re on the must-see lists of those looking to relocate.

A Community on the Rise

Unlike traditional expat hubs like Costa Rica or Panama, where foreign communities are well-established, El Salvador’s expat scene is still in its early days. And that, for many, is precisely the appeal.

This isn’t just a retirement haven, it’s a destination for risk-takers, entrepreneurs, and early adopters who see the country as a land of opportunity rather than just a place to escape to. They’re launching businesses, buying property, and helping shape what feels like a country in the middle of a second chance.

A Moment or a Movement?

El Salvador’s transformation is nothing short of astonishing, but the big question remains—can it last?

For now, though, the country stands at a crossroads, no longer a cautionary tale but a case study in reinvention. Whether it becomes the next great expat haven or a fleeting moment of promise, one thing is clear: El Salvador is no longer just a place people run from, it’s a place they’re running to, and for those willing to take the leap, the possibilities feel endless.

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Isha Sesay is Escape Artist’s Associate Editor. Born in London, she has spent the past decade living and working across the globe, and now calls Barcelona, Spain, home.