When the Rain Falls in Costa Rica

Walking Into the Storm

In rainy season, I like to walk in the rain.

Not the drizzle you tiptoe through with an umbrella, but the real thing, thick, tropical rain that soaks you in less than a minute. I leave the umbrella behind, along with any attempt to stay dry. My dogs love it too, racing in circles and shaking themselves off at random times in a useless attempt to mitigate the onslaught of water. They delight in splashing through puddles that spread across the road like small lakes. Back in the U.S., people would probably stare, wondering if I’d lost my mind. But here in Costa Rica, I can enjoy it; nobody thinks twice about a grown woman and her dogs wading happily through a downpour.

After the Rain

When it rains here, it rains with intention. The drops are big and fast, each one landing with a satisfying thud. Within seconds, the dust is washed away, the air cools, and the smell of earth rises up all around. The sound is almost musical with the rhythm of water on tin roofs, palm leaves, and stone, all blending together into one steady song. There’s nothing half-hearted about tropical rain. It isn’t timid; it sweeps in with authority and leaves you standing in the middle of it feeling exhilarated and alive. After the storm passes, the atmosphere shifts.

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Rainy season isn’t constant rain, despite what the name suggests. Most mornings are sunny and bright, perfect for a walk on the beach or even a morning swim. By early afternoon, the air gets heavier and clouds build into dramatic towers, rolling in slow and soft. Brace yourself. It’s coming. Sometimes, the clouds pass with only a shower, gone in twenty minutes. Other days, the sky opens and unleashes so much water you can barely see a few feet ahead. Thunder rumbles through the hills, lightning flashes illuminate the jungle for a split second, and then, almost as quick as it started, it’s done. The world is transformed by the quiet that follows.

The quiet that follows is its own kind of magic. The frogs begin to sing, a chorus so loud it feels like they’re trying to make up for the silence they held during the storm. The air smells clean. Trees drip. Puddles ripple. And if the moon happens to be out, everything glistens silver.

Two Seasons in Costa Rica

Costa Rica, despite its diversity, has only two main seasons: wet and dry. Most people refer to them as rainy season and dry season, not the rainy season or the dry season. I guess that is done because it is a name like summer or winter. In Spanish, they are called temporada de lluvias (literally “season of rains”) and temporada seca (“season of dryness”) but even those are not as straightforward as they sound. In July, for example, parts of the country experience a brief break in the rains, known as veranillo or “little summer.” On the Caribbean coast, especially down south near Puerto Viejo, the weather is quite different. You can get rain almost any day of the year, mostly in the afternoon. There, people learn to simply carry on, rain or shine.

Here in Guanacaste, where I live, the difference between dry and rainy season couldn’t be more dramatic. Dry season is exactly that…dry. For months, not a drop falls. The hills turn brown, rivers shrink to little trickles, and the wind blows hard. They call them the Popagayo winds. They kick up so much dust on the unpaved roads that local businesses put vats of molasses on the roads, leaving the sweet smell of burnt sugar in the air. By March, the landscape looks parched and brittle. The heat builds day after day until you feel like you might wither along with the grass.

Then, the first real rain arrives. The first drops land with a sizzle on the hot sand. Within hours, the change begins. Green spreads across the hillsides almost overnight. The ground drinks it in, flowers burst into bloom, and the whole countryside seems to take a deep breath. You can feel the collective exhale; plants, animals, and people all waking up again. The rainy season is rebirth.

Life in the Rainy Season

Tourists often shy away from rainy season, imagining endless storms, washed-out roads, and damp hotel rooms. But the reality is far gentler. Yes, there are stretches when the rain is heavy and rivers swell. Yes, sometimes your laundry takes three days to dry. But for most of the country, the rhythm is steady and balanced: clear, bright mornings followed by afternoon or evening showers. It’s a kind of built-in pause, a reminder to slow down, pour a cup of coffee, and wait it out.

The temperatures stay lower, rarely climbing past ninety. The mornings are fresh, and the afternoons invite you to nap or read while the rain taps on the roof. The animals seem happier too. Birds dart through the trees, their calls echoing against the damp air. Butterflies are everywhere, flashing their wings like little stained-glass windows.

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The howler monkeys make their grand appearance more often in rainy season. In the dry months, they’re quieter, conserving energy, moving less. Most of their water comes from the trees themselves, so when the leaves dry up, their supply runs thin. But with the rains, they wake up again, bellowing from the treetops, swinging noisily, announcing their presence to anyone within miles. They’re nature’s alarm clock, whether you want one or not. Not a gentle one either. They sound prehistoric, like they could eat a cow in one bite, but in reality weigh in at about twenty pounds. You learn to love the sound but it takes some getting used to.

The birds fall silent the moment the rain begins, as if waiting politely for it to finish. Then, as soon as the storm ends, they burst into song again, a joyful kind of chatter that fills the air with life. It’s as though they, too, feel cleansed by the downpour.

The Slower, Softer Side

Of course, it’s not all postcard moments. The mosquitoes are real, and yes, they multiply when the rains come. I won’t pretend otherwise. But I’ve learned to keep a can of repellent handy, and honestly, it’s a small price to pay for everything else that comes with the season.

For me, the rainy season is when Costa Rica feels most itself, lush, alive, and wild. The world is green, and the air is fresh. Life settles into a slower rhythm. The pace of everything changes. There’s no point in hurrying when the road in front of you might turn into a river in the next five minutes. People take their time, conversations last longer, and plans bend easily around the weather. It’s not just the landscape that softens in the rain. it’s the people too.

And then there’s the practical side: rainy season is cheaper.

A Different Kind of Freedom

With the tourist crowds gone, the whole economy lowers its shoulders. Hotels slash their rates, excursions drop in price, and restaurants roll out rainy-season specials just to keep business steady. The biggest savings go to visitors. If you’ve ever wanted to see Costa Rica without emptying your wallet, this is the time. You can book the same beachfront room that costs a fortune in January for half the price in September. You can go ziplining, snorkeling, or on a jungle tour for a fraction of the high-season cost.

But those of us who live here get a break too. Since I don’t have a car, I notice right away when taxi fares dip. Drivers know there are fewer tourists, fewer airport pickups, and fewer long-distance fares. So they adjust, and suddenly the ride to town doesn’t sting quite so much. When I do need to rent a car, rainy season feels like winning the lottery. Daily rates can plummet by almost 50%. Over a long weekend, that adds up to real money saved. Add to that cheaper surf lessons, quieter beaches, and fewer lines at the bakery, and suddenly rainy season feels like Costa Rica’s best-kept secret.

One of the most underrated joys of Costa Rica’s rainy season is how much less crowded everything feels. When the tourist rush dies down, the whole country takes a break. Roads that were once clogged with rental cars and surf shuttles suddenly open up. That left turn that used to feel impossible? You glide through it without a line of impatient Gringos behind you. Parking in town isn’t a scavenger hunt anymore. You can usually just pull right in and be on your way. Even the beaches feel bigger, stretching wide and empty, with only a few footprints scattered along the shoreline.

Restaurants are a whole new experience too. In high season, you can spend half the evening waiting for a table, shouting over the hum of tourists swapping stories about ziplining and sloths. During rainy season, you stroll right in. The staff have time to chat, the food comes out faster, and the atmosphere feels calmer, friendlier. Sometimes the owner will even step out to say hello, something you’d never see when every table is full. It feels less like eating in a business and more like being welcomed into someone’s home.

When the World Slows Down

The shift isn’t just about space.it’s about mood. The people who live and work here are visibly happier when the crowds thin out. Waiters, tour guides, taxi drivers, shopkeepers slow down. You see it in their faces. They’re friendlier, more relaxed, and often more generous with their time. I’ve had cab drivers offer to wait without charging extra, guides linger a little longer on the trail just to share another story, and bartenders slide an extra splash of rum into a cocktail, smiling as if to say, Why not?

Part of that good mood comes from the rhythm of the rainy season itself. The heat eases, the world turns green, and life slows down. But part of it is also pure relief. Working through high season in Costa Rica can be exhausting. Restaurants are busy,, tours are booked solid, and everyone is hustling to get ahead and save for the slower rainy season. By the time May rolls around, the slower pace is a blessing but it comes with a cost. Less tourists equal less money.

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Here’s the best part: Costa Rica’s rainy season actually lines up with summer vacation in the U.S., Canada, and Europe. While families up north are packing kids into cars and airports for expensive, overcrowded vacations, Costa Rica is easing into its calmest, most affordable stretch of the year. That means if you’re smart about it, you can have the best of both worlds. You can travel when your schedule allows, but enjoy the country without the chaos. You’ll find shorter lines, friendlier service, and a slower rhythm that lets you actually settle in and experience the real Costa Rica.

I think what I love most about rainy season is that it reminds me to let go. Back in the U.S., rain was an inconvenience. You rushed through it, ran to your car, and tried to avoid it at all costs. Here, it’s the opposite. Rain is expected, embraced, even celebrated. Nobody hurries; they just step aside, wait it out, or walk right into it. I’ve learned to do the same.

So when the sky opens, I step outside with my dogs, ready to get drenched. They bound into puddles, tongues lolling, tails wagging, and I follow them, water streaming down my hair and arms, clothes plastered to my skin. And instead of wishing for sunshine, I breathe it in; the smell, the sound, the feeling of being washed clean. It feels like freedom, like being exactly where I’m supposed to be.

That’s rainy season in Costa Rica. Messy, green, alive, and completely worth every drop.

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Semi-retired teacher and theater professional Tam Matthews moved to Costa Rica in January of 2023 with her two dogs. She writes about expat life on Substack.

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FAQs About Costa Rica Rainy Season

When is the rainy season in Costa Rica?

The rainy season in Costa Rica typically runs from May to November. Rain usually falls in the afternoon, leaving mornings sunny and clear. This season brings lush green landscapes and fewer tourists.

When is the dry season in Costa Rica?

The dry season, often called the high season, lasts from December to April. During this time, you’ll enjoy sunny skies, warm weather, and ideal conditions for beach trips and outdoor adventures.

When is the best time to visit Costa Rica?

The best time to visit Costa Rica depends on your preferences:

• For sunny beach days and outdoor tours, the dry season (Dec–Apr) is perfect.
• For lower prices, fewer crowds, and lush scenery, the rainy season (May–Nov) offers great value and unique experiences.