Trouble in Quito

In July 2021, I was happily commuting into central London, spending my days complaining about all the tourists, the crowded tube, and the ever-increasing cost of a glass of wine. 

Then I met my boyfriend, and a few weeks into dating he told me he wanted to work abroad. I ignored this, thinking, who wants to leave London? It’s one of the world’s most exciting cities, with endless options for fun, culture, and socializing. Why go anywhere else?

Fast forward two years, and after a very close relative died, I started thinking she’d never forgive me if I missed my opportunity to live abroad. I soon requested and was granted a three-year sabbatical from work (extremely rare in the UK). Then I sold my home and booked a one-way flight to Quito, Ecuador. I was really doing this! 

Moving abroad is stressful, wherever you go, but Ecuador comes with added stresses. First, it’s on the equator, which means skincare became my new obsession. Second, our new home is within eyesight of a few active volcanoes, so there’s always the risk of lava flowing into the living room.  

Third, Ecuador has recently seen a spike in drug-related violence and organized crime. Two days after we landed in Quito in August 2023, presidential candidate Fernando Villavivencio was murdered while campaigning. Then in January 2024, armed gunmen took control of a major television station live on the air. The president soon declared a national state of emergency, increased the troop presence across the city and the country, and imposed an 11pm to 5am curfew.   

The criminal gangs fought back, and violence surged. Locals were scared and many businesses closed. It was hard to think about anything else, and during the first few weeks of the state of emergency I stayed within a mile of our house. 

Violence escalated on the coast, but tensions calmed in the capital, even as many foreign countries, including the UK, advised against travel to some parts of Ecuador. But businesses soon reopened and I realized that I’m rarely awake between 11pm and 5am. 

Life under curfew began to seem normal. Yes, a state of emergency is a little scary, but even with all that, I can’t promote Ecuador enough! The country is beautiful, the people are friendly, and the food is fantastic—though it’s all but impossible to find English tea. 

Sometimes I miss “Londoner Rachael,” and sometimes I worry I haven’t made the most sensible career choice. But when I’m old and gray, I feel confident I’ll be happy I spent my thirties living in a distant capital city, enjoying the rainforest and dodging sea lions in the Galapagos Islands. It’s definitely better than dodging armpits on the tube and wondering what might have been. 

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Rachael Collins is the director of Mera Consultancy, which specializes in people management, strategy development and business change. Find her on Instagram @rachael_collins

Rachael Collins

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