{"id":5040,"date":"2016-08-02T11:53:08","date_gmt":"2016-08-02T15:53:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/?p=5040"},"modified":"2020-08-02T23:35:03","modified_gmt":"2020-08-03T03:35:03","slug":"dont-wear-red-to-an-indian-wedding-the-travels-and-trials-of-a-white-girl-in-india-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/blog\/dont-wear-red-to-an-indian-wedding-the-travels-and-trials-of-a-white-girl-in-india-part-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Don\u2019t Wear Red to an Indian Wedding: The Travels and Trials of a White Girl in India, Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

My story begins one evening in November on the sticky bar stools of a local pub in Manhattan.\u00a0 The pub, known as Biddy’s, was located just underneath my apartment.\u00a0 Since moving into the neighborhood earlier that year, it had become somewhat of a tradition that, on our evenings off, Gabby and I would meet at this local watering hole for few drinks and a few hours of heightened conversation. While most of our friends preferred the vibrant rush and sense of relevancy one gains by frequenting the bars in the village or the lower east side, we were happy to spend the money we saved on cab fare for a few extra drinks before stumbling our way home through the quiet residential streets of uptown manhattan.\u00a0 We were content to remain in the three-block universe we had created for ourselves, and to drink our nights away with the bartenders and regulars we had come to know by name.\u00a0 It was hard to imagine that these two girls, so hard pressed to venture out of the upper east side, would leave Biddy’s pub that evening with plans to travel much greater distances than a fifteen-dollar cab ride down the FDR.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

We had become especially friendly that fall with one patron, a young Indian man named Guarav who shared our passion for trivia and cheap whiskey.\u00a0 Guarav had just returned from a month-long trip to India and was newly engaged to be married.\u00a0 This came as somewhat of a surprise, considering we had never seen Guarav with a woman, nor had he talked about any girlfriends he had left when he moved to America.\u00a0 It was an arranged marriage, he explained to us, and the wedding would take place in two months in India.\u00a0 He didn’t have many friends in New York, but he wanted Americans to attend his wedding.\u00a0 For what reason? This much was unclear.\u00a0 But he was very intent that Gabby and I should be in attendance.<\/p>\n

\"Gabby<\/a>
Gabby drinking a martini at the hotel cigar bar on our first night<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We liked Guarav, but by most standards we were casual acquaintances at best. What did we know: Guarav liked smoking marijuana, he had an adorable dog named Daisey (who occasionally joined Guarav on his trips to the pub), and he also played Janis Joplin on the jukebox with the extra coins that always seemed to be loose in his jean pocket.\u00a0 We didn’t know much, but for Gabby and me this seemed like enough information to accept the kind invitation to stay with his family in India.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

It was after our third shot of Jameson that Gabby booked our flight.\u00a0 A few taps on the cracked screen of her iPhone 4 and our destiny was set to explore an exotic land that had only previously existed in our imaginations. Perhaps it was fate, or perhaps it was my painfully low tolerance for whiskey, but we had just committed ourselves to two non-refundable roundtrip tickets to India, and it was exhilarating.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

We left New York early on a Tuesday morning in January and didn’t arrive in New Delhi until late Wednesday afternoon.\u00a0 Our trip was divided into two six-hour flights: New York to London and London to New Delhi.\u00a0 Gabby and I both had two large suitcases that we checked, as well as smaller bags that we carried on.\u00a0 It was more luggage than I would usually pack for two weeks, but I couldn’t decide what was appropriate to wear in India.\u00a0 My solution was to pack everything, a decision I would later come to regret.\u00a0 I read an article online that discouraged young woman from wearing tight jeans in public.\u00a0 It also warned readers against short skirts and any blouses that would reveal a woman’s shoulder.\u00a0 I have a bad habit of trusting everything I read on the internet, so it didn’t occur to me to conduct further research or double check my sources – so I blindly packed according to the author’s advice.\u00a0 I relayed my newly gained knowledge to Gabby and she packed the same way.\u00a0 Both of our bags were stuffed to capacity with maxi dresses and a wide selection of pashmina scarves to cover our shoulders.<\/p>\n

\"Don\u2019t<\/a>
Me outside the Taj Mahal with hair nets on my shoes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When we walked off the plane and into the New Delhi airport, it was not the scene I had anticipated after traveling almost 24 hours. Women were wearing the same tight-legged jeans that I had left folded in my dresser drawer, and the same shirts I had seen in the window of H&M on 86th street.\u00a0 Of course, there were also women wearing traditional saris, but hardly any of these women were under the age of thirty.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

We shared a shuttle from the airport to the Radisson hotel with an American couple who was also in New Delhi for a wedding.\u00a0 They explained to us that January was wedding season in India, and that they had been invited to several weddings, but could only attend one because all of the ceremonies overlapped.\u00a0 The woman, who was of Indian heritage, explained that summers in India were too hot and the odor that permeated the air was too unbearable to create a romantic wedding atmosphere.\u00a0 Having spent several summers in New York, I understood the very real connection that existed between high temperatures and unpleasant odors, especially on the streets of heavily populated cities.\u00a0 As far as I could tell, what the woman had described was accurate.\u00a0 The city air was welcoming, and the only unusual smell I perceived was that of the spices that wafted from the windows of the businesses we passed on our way to the hotel.<\/p>\n

\"Don\u2019t<\/a>
A monkey in Agra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Radisson was a mini-mall mecca mounted atop a collection of less impressive, run down structures.\u00a0 The hotel itself seemed to emerge from a cluster of houses built so closely together that it was difficult to tell whether their foundation was on the side of a hill or if they had simply been stacked on top of another.\u00a0 It reminded me of a painting I had seen in Hebrew school of King Solomon’s temple in Jerusalem.\u00a0 According to the Old Testament, Solomon commissioned the temple to be at the highest point of the city so that the Jews might be closer to God during prayer.\u00a0 The comparison made me chuckle, when I considered a scenario in which Radisson contractors decided to construct the tower according to proximity to the Lord.\u00a0 Ultimately, I decided it was more likely that the site’s proximity to the airport, and not to the heavens, that made it an appealing location to build a hotel.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

The first thing I did after we checked in and showered was try and plug-in my hair straightener.\u00a0 While researching Indian climate, I read from yet another internet expert that I could expect high humidity during the month of January.\u00a0 I anticipated taking a gross number of photos for my Instagram, and wanted to ensure that it would be the Indian landscape, and not my uncontrollable Jew-fro, that was featured most prominently in my shots.\u00a0 This was when I faced my first big cultural dilemma – not only was I unable to plug my straightener directly into the outlet, but the outlet adapter provided by the hotel was also not conducive with my device.<\/p>\n

\"Don\u2019t<\/a>
Me, Gabby, and Ezra in front of the Taj Mahal (photo credit Rakesh)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After several failed attempts to revive my lifeless electronic, I decided it was time to find another solution.\u00a0 Luckily for me, one of the several perks of staying in King Solomon’s Radisson hotel, was that there was a fully staffed beauty salon two floors below my hotel room.\u00a0 Feeling empowered by my already turbulent adventure, I decided I would chop off the majority of my hair so that it would fall just above my shoulders. \u00a0This would be the shortest I had worn it since I was in middle school.\u00a0 India had already made me bold!\u00a0 I was pleased with the hair dresser\u2019s work, but I was even more delighted when the cost of my haircut came to $25 total.\u00a0 This is a considerably lower price than the $200 cuts you’ll receive from a salon in New York City.\u00a0 Most people don’t travel to India for a cheaper haircut, largely because the plane tickets alone more than make up the salon’s difference in cost, but I was pleased all the same that my straightener refused to cooperate with an Indian outlet, and that I had waited to be on the opposite side of the globe to chop off my hair.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Guarav advised us not to explore New Delhi before we met up with Ezra, Gaurav’s best friend and roommate from the States.\u00a0 It was unsafe for two young American women to travel around the city without a male chaperone.\u00a0 Unbeknown to me, there had been several incidents of rape through the city’s cab and Uber services over the past year. As it was, we were exhausted from our journey and happy to remain in the hotel for our first meal in India.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

We scheduled an early-morning trip to the Taj Mahal the next day, so our intention was to have dinner and go to sleep early.\u00a0 But one cocktail became two, became five, became dirty martinis and cigars with our charming bartender, as he closed up shop for the evening.\u00a0 Most women in India do not drink in public, and they certainly do not smoke cigars, so he was very interested in talking to the two American lushes that had found their way to his counter.<\/p>\n

\"Don\u2019t<\/a>
Gabby holding an Indian infant while waiting on line to enter the Taj Mahal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After some conversation, he told us that he worked as a bartender to expense his blossoming career as a recording artist.\u00a0 He aspired to sing for Bollywood movies and was happy to give us a private performance.\u00a0 His singing was unlike anything on the radio in America, but his skill was undeniable – even to my foreign ear.\u00a0 I had never\u00a0 heard so many notes sung so quickly, in a melody that didn’t seem to follow any recognizable pattern.\u00a0 Just when I thought I knew where the song was going, he would jump two octaves and back again in the space of one measure.\u00a0 It was mesmerizing. It was through a haze of dirty martinis, in a trance brought on by the shrill timbre of his voice, that I first thought to myself, I am in India.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

My story begins one evening in November on the sticky bar stools of a local pub in Manhattan.\u00a0 The pub, known as Biddy’s, was located just underneath my apartment.\u00a0 Since moving into the neighborhood earlier that year, it had become somewhat of a tradition that, on our evenings off, Gabby and I would meet at […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":5042,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"content-type":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"footnotes":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"yst_prominent_words":[16449,16447,16445,5853,16448,5855,5162,3776,5849,16444,8946,16450,16446,6724,5841,5840,6632,2624,2612,8956],"acf":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5040"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5040"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5040\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6578,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5040\/revisions\/6578"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5040"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5040"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5040"},{"taxonomy":"yst_prominent_words","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escapeartist.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/yst_prominent_words?post=5040"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}