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Living in Europe
There's No Place I'd Rather be
For many Americans the best fringe benefit of a relocation to Europe is the opportunity for accessible travel through a continent with incredible cultural diversity. Of course, there are the destinations that anyone on a two-to-three year residency will have on their "must see" list, but few people will return to the US without some village, region, resort or city occupying a special place in their recollections of traveling through Europe. Those who stay a little longer often have the chance to range a bit farther and perhaps to form a long-term bond with a particular place. Clare Sievers asked six prominent US citizens resident in Europe to share their thoughts on a favorite holiday destination. 

Todi, Italy
Peter Alegi, attorney, Rome

Growing up in urban New Haven, Conn., Peter Alegi was far removed from the Italian countryside he would later call home. Although all his grandparents came from Italy, he remembers feeling no connection to that country. 77W changed in 1959 when he spent a year in Italy as a Fulbright fellow. In 1965, after earning a law degree, he accepted a job offer in Italy and has been there ever since.
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The vacation spot that has won Alegi's  heart is Todi, Umbria, about an hour and  a-half drive north of his home in Rome. Alegi visited the area for the first time with his wife in 1986. It captivated them so much they decided to buy a house in the nearby village of Romanzano, which sits in 30 acres on top of one of the many hills that surround Todi.
The center of the house is a tower dating from the 12th or 13th century, built as a defensive structure and later converted to a monastery. Over the centuries buildings were built to lean against the main tower for support, and they now envelop it on three sides. They may give it extra strength as well, because though Romanzano is in the same earthquake zone that produced the tremors that damaged Assissi last year, the Alegi's tower has stood for more than 600 years.

During a three-year period the Alegis restored the building, carefully preserving its history. Now they spend almost every weekend there, with much time dedicated to tending the 200 olive trees on the grounds, and producing their own olive oil.

Todi, with a population of 7,000, is a typical Etruscan town built on a hill for defensive purposes. It boasts many well-preserved medieval buildings, lovely piazzas and, steep old streets.

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The surrounding landscape is characterized by hills quilted  by a patchwork of silvery olive groves and vineyards. The town's central Piazza del Popolo, considered one of the finest piazzas  in Italy, is bordered by Gothic buildings. It is built above a series of Roman cisterns and is on the site of a Roman forum. 

One thing not to be missed in the town is the church of Santa Maria della Consolazione, a Renaissance masterpiece. Started in 1508 and completed 99 years later, it is thought to have been built by Cola da Caprarola and shows the influence of the master Bramante.

In addition to the natural beauty and historic interest of the area, Alegi has been captivated by the people of Umbria. He says they are "the most welcoming, friendly and easy-going people you will ever meet." And as far as food is concerned, Alegi swears nothing can beat fresh Umbrian ingredients."

The region is famous for its pork, especially porcetta, a roast, suckling pig seasoned with fennel. Black and white truffles, when in season from September to January are a delicacy usually shaved into thin slices and served over pasta.

Alegi also believes that no trip to Umbria would be complete without enjoying a cup of coffee on the Piazza Garibaldi, located at the end of Todi's main street, the Corso Cavour. From the piazza there are spectacular views of the countryside, beyond a garden containing a cypress tree supposedly planted in 1849 to commemorate Garibaldi's visit to TodL

Alegi and his wife have become so close to Todi that they are going through the complicated process of buying plots in the village cemetery. "Italy is one of the few places where housing is difficult when you are alive," he said, "... and also when you are dead."

Cordoba, Spain
Blannie Curtis, director, American International School of Lisbon

Blannie Curtis became director of the American International School of Lisbon in August of last year.

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However, she is not new to Portugal or the school. She was a teacher there in the 1980s before leaving to serve as principal of an international school in Caracas, Venezuela. Now, as director, she is overseeing the school's move to its new, high-tech campus in Linho.

Curtis has a history background, and for that reason her favorite travel destination is Cordoba in southern Spain. The greatest attraction of the city is its cathedral, which she considers "one of the most astounding historical monuments in the world."

The cathedral was originally constructed between the 8th and 10th centuries as a Moorish mosque on the site of a Roman temple, and later of a Visigothic church. The amazing thing about it is that the Christians did not destroy the mosque, considered to be Europe's most beautiful. Instead they built their church inside it, keeping the original building intact. Even though the building has officially been a cathedral for more than 750 years, the locals call the building, "La Mezquita," the mosque.

"Seeing all he religions and time periods of history overlaying each other, for anyone with any sort of history background, it is overwhelming," she said.

Cordoba is also a great walking city, Curtis explained.

"Every time you turn a corner there is some historic thing to see, or a wonderful restaurant to eat in, or a cafe to stop off in," she said. Those who make the uphill trek to the Alcazar during the summer would find immediate relief from the heat. The Moorish palace and gardens often seem to be a refreshing 10 degrees cooler than the surrounding area. It may be the many fountains set in the Islamic architecture, as much as the landscaping, which create the refreshing setting.

Another walk Curtis suggests is to the Calahorra Castle, seat of the University of Cordoba, which is reached from the central city via a Roman bridge of 16 arches over the Guadalquiver River.

On her walks she has learned of, the vast history of cordoba. It flourished as a major Roman settlement from the 1st to the 5th century, and was then captured in succession  by the Visigoths and the N46ors. In 756 Abdar-Rahman made Cordoba the capital of Moorish Spain, and for the next 250 years the city was one of the world's great commercial and intellectual centers.

The material well-being of Cordoba declined after the 11th century as Moslem rule in Spain disintegrated, but the city remained a hub of literature and scholarship. In 1236 the city was captured and made part of Roman Catholic Spain by Ferdinand III of Castile.

Lake Bled, Slovenia
Alan Levy, editor- in- chief,
The Prague Post

Alan Levy was already a renowned US journalist when he moved with his family to Prague in 1967. He was an eyewitness to the reforms of the Prague Spring, the Soviet invasion of August 1968, and the repression that followed. His account of these events, "Rowboat to Prague," became an underground classic, and was responsible for his deportation in 1971. He and his family lived in Vienna for 20  years, but returned to Prague in late 1990 when he became founding editor of The Prague Post, widely regarded as the best English -language newspaper in Eastern Europe.

Levy's favorite European travel destination is Lake Bled, in northern Slovenia, which he first visited in 1987 while on assignment for the International Herald Tribune. In the northwestern most corner of the country, near the borders of Austria and Italy, Lake Bled lies on the southern slopes of the Karawanken range of the Alps. The Slovenian capital, Ljubljana, is about 40 miles to the south.

Levy stayed at Vila Bled, the former summer residence of Marshal Tito that was converted to a luxury hotel in 1984. Although the luxury of Vila Bled was impressive, Levy considers the highlight of that trip to be something much more simple.

"One of the very special things that made it my favorite lake in Europe were the swans flying in formation," Levy recalled.-"Up until that point, swans were always ugly birds that hissed at you when you went by." He has been to Lake Bled four or five times since that first visit, and each time has seen the swans flying.

When Levy returned to Bled in 1995 with his family, they lived for a month in a farmhouse. This arrangement was part of a program organized by the agricultural cooperatives of Slovenia. He recommends the farmhouse option for anyone traveling with small children; his two-year-old grandchild was with him for the month, and the freedom of the farm was a big advantage.

For Levy, one of Lake Bled's most interesting sights is the 15th century Christian church on an island in the middle of the lake. The island can be reached via rowboat in 10 minutes, or by one of the piloted gondolas, called pletnas. There are 99 steps from the lake to the church, which pilgrims used to climb on their knees. At the top of the steps is the church's "Wishing Bell." Legend has it if the bell rings on the third pull, the bellringer's wish will come true.

On cliffs rising 100 meters above the lakeshore is Bled Castle, which dates from the 11th century, and was the seat of the bishops of' Brixen for 800 years. It currently houses a museum that traces the history of Lake Bled and its settlements from the Bronze Age to the middle of the l9th century, and a small, 16th century chapel.

Ericeira, Portugal
Tom Estes, restauranteur, Paris

In 1969, Tom Estes, a young school teacher from Los Angeles, took a vacation to Amsterdam. Several years later he had the idea of opening the first Mexican restaurant in The dream became reality in 1976 when he opened Café  Pacifico, with one  of his former Mexican American students as  chef. Since then, Estes has  opened restaurants in  London, Paris, Cologne, Milan and, most recently, Sydney. After 10 years in Amsterdam, he moved to Paris, where he currently lives.

Portugal was the first place Estes chose to take a European vacation after moving to Amsterdam in the 1970s. He said "the landscape and the people reminded me of old California" and he returned four more times to explore different areas. He highly recommends the seaside town of Ericeira, just over the border of the Estremadura region north of Lisbon.

At the center of Ericeira is Praca da Republica, which Estes describes as "a typical Latin town square where you can spend hours having coffee and watching the people go by." The square's name relates to the town's place in recent history. On Oct. 5 1910, Portugal's last monarch, Dom Manuel 11, learned that an angry republican mob was advancing on him from Lisbon. He fled to the harbor at Ericeira and sailed into the safety of the British colony of Gibraltar. A plaque on the side of the Santo Antonio Chapel above the harbor records this event and there are related documents, including British newspaper reports, in the small municipal museum.

The cobblestone streets of Ericeiras old fishing quarter are lined by adobe houses painted white with bright blue trim. Alternatively, you can always spend the day enjoying Ericeria's fine beaches. Swimming is not permitted at Ericeira's main beach because it is reserved for the fishermen. However, the Praia do Sul to the south is a fine, sand beach set in front of dramatic cliffs.

To the north is Praia de Sao Sebastiao. This beach was named after the young king who led an army of 18,000 soldiers in a crusade against the Moors. In 1578, at the battle of Acacer-Quibir in North Africa, the king and 8,000 of his men were killed, but the Portuguese people refused to believe the news of the king's death. A legend grew among "Sebastianists" that he would reappear one day to lead them back to glory.

Of course the food is of special interest to Estes, and Ericeira is well known to the Portuguese for its seafood, particularly lobsters and crayfish. The local speciality is acorda de mariscos, a shellfish stew made by soaking bread in shellfish stock, then cooking it in olive oil and garlic and adding eggs and shellfish. Estes also praises the Portuguese for producing good, natural wines. The best known varieties from the area are the light, dry red Colares and the local alternative to port, the sweet Setubal muscatel dessert wines.

Fredrikstad and Lillehammer, Norway 
Kevin McCloskey, accountant, Oslo

Kevin McCloskey recently worked out an itinerary for ffiends andfamilyfrom the US traveling to Norway this summerfor his wedding. He movedfrom New York City to Norway in December 1996 to be with his Norwegianflancee and to work in the Deloitte and Touche Oslo office.

McCloskey recommends Fredrikstad and Lillehammer, both within easy travel distance of Oslo. Fredrikstad is just over an hour by train, south of Oslo. Located at the mouth of Norway's longest river, the Glomma, Fredrikstad is named for the Danish king who built the fortified town in 1567.

Norway was ruled by Danish kings from 1387 to 1814, and played a significant role in the sequence of wars between Sweden and Denmark. The eastern approaches to Oslo, along the Oslofjord, were especially vulnerable to attack, and Fredrikstad became an important fortress. By 1635, Fredrikstad was the strongest fortress in Norway. It still functions as a military camp today and is the only surviving fortified town in Scandanavia.

McCloskey says that thanks to careful preservation, Fredrikstad's Gamlebyen, the Old Town, offers visitors "an opportunity to see what a Norwegian town looked like several hundred years ago." Many buildings in the historic district have been converted into studios for local artists, and their architectural integrity has been maintained.

Outside the gates of the Old Town is Kongsten Fort, the most impressive of the towns outlying defences. Thick stone and earth walls stand on a rocky knoll that offers views of the surrounding countryside. Underground chambers and passages illustrate military engineering techniques of the 17th century.

Lillehammer, host town of the 1994 Winter Olympics, is a two-hour train ride north of Oslo. Of course, for anyone interested in winter sports Lillehammer is hard to beat. In preparation for the Olympics, the Norwegian government spent two billion kroner on the town's sporting facilities, which are considered the best in the country. McCloskey recommends taking time to check them out.

Despite its claim to current fame, Lillehammer has much to offer beyond winter sports. It enjoys a beautiful location on the shore of Lake Mjosa, Norway's largest lake, and is rich in cultural and historical sites. The LillehammerArt Museum, located in the center of town, contains one of the nation's largest collections of national art. The exhibits contain pieces dating from the 1830s to the present.

The Maihaugen Open Air Museum consists of 150 historical buildings, ranging from manor farms to cottages used by the poorest yeoman workers. The buildings exhibited in this museum were gathered from all over the Budbrands Valley and were reassembled and furnished in 17th to 18th century style. Two key exhibits are farms dating from the late 17th century, complete with their various outbuildings and living areas. The oldest structure in the museum's collection is the Garmo Stave Church, dating from the year 1200. Stave churches, constructed entirely of wood, were built throughout Norway in the Middle Ages. An estimated 750 stave churches were built, but today only about 30 remain.

Most activity in "downtown" Lillehammer concentrates on the pedestrian part of the main thoroughfare, Storgata. It is lined with old wooden houses, reflecting Lillehammer's claim to be the oldest inland town in eastern Norway.

The New Forest, England 
Susan Kessler, managing director, Zagat UK, London

The Zagat restaurant guides are now the most widely read in North America. As managing director of Zagat UK, Susan Kessler is working for the same kind of success in London. Kessler was thefood and decorating editor of New Woman Magazine when she and her husband moved to London seven years ago. Soon afterwards, affiend introduced her to Tim and Nina Zagat, who were looking to launch the guide in the UK.

Every year at Christmas since 1993 Kessler and her husband have spent four nights at Chewton Glen Hotel, Health and Country Club, 90 miles south west of London in the New Forest town of New Milton, Hampshire. The 18th century manor house sits in a 70-acre garden.

As you might expect from a place recommended by Kessler, the food at Chewton Glen maintains a high standard, with a Michelin star restaurant kept in the capable hands of chef Pierre Chevillard. This year the hotel was ranked number one in Europe and 13th in the world by the Conde Nast Traveler readers choice poll. Kessler says she returns each year because "it is very welcoming with wonderful staff who treat you like family."

The hotel is located on the southern edge of the New Forest, which despite its name is actually one of the few primeval oak woods remaining in England. Its 145 square miles of heathland and woods, make the New Forest the largest area of unenclosed land in southern Britain; motorists are advised to yield to the semi-wild ponies that roam the area.

Those not disposed to ambling through the countryside will find things to see and do at the national automobile collection at nearby Beaulieu Castle, a shipbuilding museum at Buckler's Hard on the coastal edge of the New Forest, or sailing in The Solent, the strait between the New Forest and the Isle of Wight.

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