On vases, first drinks, and decorated bikes - life in Amsterdam, by Kate Robbins
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On vases, first drinks, and decorated bikes
*** Life in Amsterdam ***
by Kate Robbins

US$1 equals DFL 2.17

I find that it's better to let people get their fascination with Amsterdam's seedier side out of their system right away. After a few hours of red-light tourism, during which they stare at bored, scantily-clad women sitting beneath red lights, they're ready for something new. Then I get the chance to show them what Amsterdam is really like. You see, there's a lot more to the Netherlands and the Dutch people than prostitutes and pot. Here are a few things you should know if you're considering a move here.

The secret of the first drink
When you move into a new house in the Netherlands, it's important to invite your neighbors for a borrel (drink) to introduce yourself. If you simply say you'd like to meet somewhere for a drink sometime, you might very well never hear from them again. I waited for three months before someone let me in on the secret. 
It was also a bit of a shock to learn that my Dutch neighbors weren't particularly excited about having “foreign” neighbors. The Dutch are used to foreign tenants coming and going. Don't take it personally. They're friendly people, who will feed your cat, inform you if you've left your car lights on, and translate strange letters about water rates - but for a foreigner, it's difficult to get beyond the niceties and make a really close friend of a Nederlander. 

The only transportation you need
Cycling, as you probably know, is a Dutch habit. But also realize, it's a serious mode of transportation, not just a way to exercise. My visiting friends soon learn that traveling at a snail’s pace and stopping every two minutes to consult maps will get them verbally abused by a steady stream of bell-ringing Dutch men, women, and children. And be careful with your bike. In Amsterdam, 15,000 bikes are stolen every month. Bike thieves will stop at nothing to get what they want. The many brightly-colored, graffiti-decorated bikes are not just an expression of individuality - they are theft deterrents.

Another Dutch joy for me, even after five years of living here, is buying flowers. The Amsterdam flower shops and markets are testimony to the Dutch people's obsession with flowers. When I did eventually invite my Dutch neighbors to my house for a formal introduction, they all arrived with elaborate bouquets of lilies, irises, and sunflowers. I had no other option but to plunge these arrangements into an assortment of unattractive plastic buckets. My second lesson in Dutch social etiquette: Great care must be given immediately to arranging, watering, and displaying in order not to offend. I now own eight vases.

Calculating normalcy: What's fair is fair
The Dutch have a thing about being fair. And nowhere brings this national trait out more than a restaurant. “You're not leaving that big a tip are you?” cried one Dutch friend in horror when I left 10% of the bill. “I've worked out the bill,” said another. “OK, I owe 30 guilders and 27 cents exactly. You owe FL29.52 and you FL31.78.”

Everything in Dutch life must be fair - which explains why calculators appear at restaurant tables (and why the service in restaurants in the Netherlands is so appalling). This obsession with saving money can have its advantages. I was on the tram one day and asked the driver for a ticket. “A ticket?” he asked. “Well, I wouldn't buy one on a tram that's this crowded. Look, there's not even a place to sit.” I saved three guilders.

To rent or to buy: real-estate resources
The areas of the Joordan, the Staatsliedenbuurt, and South Amsterdam, around Beethoven Straat, are my favorite residential areas in Amsterdam.

For rental accommodation, contact Briefcase Hometip, Sarphatistraat 484, 1018 GW, Amsterdam, the Netherlands; tel. (31)20-625-4443, fax 20-625-7098, E-mail: hometip@xs4all.nl, Web site: http://www.hometip.com/

Hometip has properties to rent from $364 to $2,914 per month. A three-room furnished apartment near the central Vondel Park is currently for rent for $1,521 per month. On the city outskirts, a similar three-room apartment costs $900. The average cost of a three-room furnished apartment in central Amsterdam is $1,200 per month. For information about properties for sale, contact real-estate broker Peter Bruin, Valeriusplein 22, 1075 BH, Amsterdam, the Netherlands; tel. (31)20-673-3322, fax 20-673-3325, E-mail: peter-bruin@nvm.org

What it costs to live here
Compared with their cost in other major European cities, clothing and footwear are cheap, but they are more expensive than in the United States. The Netherlands is one of the world’s leaders in electronic goods (Philips) and multimedia (Polygram), so prices in the domestic-supplies category are among the most competitive in Europe. Transportation is expensive.

Rules for residency
If you plan to stay for more than three months, you must apply for a residence permit before leaving the United States. If you don't, you can apply to do this within eight days of arrival at the Aliens Police office. These permits are renewed annually.
• The Aliens Police, The Hague; tel. (31)70-360-9879
• U.S. Consulate General, American Citizen Services, Amsterdam; tel. (31)20-575-5309
• Embassy of the Netherlands, Washington, D.C.; tel.  (202)244-5300, Web site: http://www.netherlands-embassy.org/

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Article by by Kate Robbins

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