Fishing The Pantanal
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Fishing The Pantanal
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If you're the type that likes fishing, the wild life and adventure try the Pantanal.  What is the Pantanal?  You might access the alanet.com br and see the beauty first hand.  The Pantanal is 3000 (yes mother) 3000 square miles of wet lands.  Somewhat like the Florida everglades but as yet, not destroyed.  Less  than an hour from Campo Grande the area changes.  The rivers begin to widen and you'll come across a town called Aquidauana.  The citiy is on the banks of the river of the same name. 40,000 sleepy inhabitants to the west of Campo Grande.  On the other side of the  river lays a city of 10,000.  What's so different about this river?  Good fishing and no piranha fish.  Even though the river empties into the Miranda river, before doing so there is a rapids area, quite a lot of rock structure lines the rivers bottom and sides and creates a rapids area.  The piranhas, (there are two principal types in the miranda river waters,)  don't even want to think about crossing these; or any other rapids.  They like calm water with a minimum of current.

So they don't cross the rapids and the Aquidauana river has no piranha. Excellent fishing though, even though the government doesn't stop the overload of commercial fishing.  We had a 50 acre fishing hole 5 mile south of town.  This was a few years ago. It was called the Panthers Nook  or something like that.  Went there once a month to fish on the weekends with another attorney called Erone Chaves.  Erone is one of those big fat overgrown patient guys that drinks as much as he fishes.   But he cooks darn well.  Great company for fishing. Better yet he doesn't talk much, like me.  Anyway we got there about an hour after sun down and saw that the locks on the gate had be violated.  And when we got to the the banks we found out that we been invaded by a big family of people from the south of Brazil.


 
 
I'm an American that has lived in Brazil for 27 years and worked as the only North American attorney at law that could or would practice law here. Now retired and back to being a hotel owner.  We have plenty of time to talk and talk to travelers.  We've been to all the neighboring countries and know the most inexpensive ways to go, get back and to live well.  For the most part people down here are nice, but there are many ways to avoid getting ripped off.  Campo Grande is the jumping off place for Paraguay, Bolivia, Chile, Uruguay or Peru. Many times there are cheaper ways of going there that travelers don't know about.  Also we have a free 140 acre fishing camp that is used by our customers and friends in the city of Miranda, Brazil about 2 hours from us on the Miranda river. About 2 miles from downtown. Yes it has lights and water and 750 feet of river bank for fishing.  The Pantanal is the South American wet lands and a really great adventure.  Anyway if our hotel is compliant with your criteria please lets us know.  ~ Dion Ross
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They'd taken over, brought in two big trucks and had caught a half a dozen 10 or 12 lb. cat fish called surubim.  (also called pintado which means spotted).  Things got hot and I got l hotter but Erone calmed us all down pointing that the river had enough fish for everyone and we all had enough beer for a couple of days.  I wasn't irritated with the fishing but with the blatant invasion of property and privacy, but Brazil is Brazil and so we let it ride. They got drunker and drunker and I started fishing, to cool off. Till 11:30 p.m. the only thing I caught were 3 fish called armal.
 
Of course they were going out in their 2 boats and I was bank fishing.  Armal are a cat fish. I should know the scientific name but right now it slips me.  They are the funniest cat fish you've ever seen.  Their head is bigger than a normal cat fish about twice the size and their body is covered with an alligator skin. they'll eat anything alive or dead an some people call them the garbage collector of the river.  I don't know just how big they go but I myself have caught them up to 25 lbs.  They don't fight much, but their size makes for a good fight.  To eat them you have to cut off their head and so you lose half the weight.  After you gut and skin them you've got two filets of good white boneless meat which the locals fry and gobble down.  When you take them out of the water they open up the fin that are kind of winged and bark at you like a croaking frog.

I caught three 10 pounders just before midnight. Was a good night for fishing. The mosquitos go to sleep at 7:30 p. m. and there was a slight breeze.  No moon and I was getting over being pissed at the invaders.  Where I fished I was just beyond the swirls of water deepened and the river levels out.  Not any snags to speak of. You can fish in the dark with only the light of a gas lantern and be pretty comfortable.  I put on my last piece of cut meat for bait and was going to call it a night.  Erone had already drank his share of the beer and was now snoring blissfully in the car.  So few insects that he'd left the window half open and you could hear him snoring.  The invaders had calmed down and their stories were about the gringo fisherman that could only catch armal, instead of pintados.

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The Panatanal
The Passionate Adventurer's Guide to the Brazilian Amazon & the Pantanal
C L I C K   H E R E

Now occasionally the trees break off branches and also big logs come down the river to screw things up for the fishermen.  They'll break your line after dragging it out fully. You normally lose all your rig and have to put everything back together.   Just as I was getting ready to call it a night,  it happened.  The line got dragged down about 10 yards and stopped dead.  I thought the branch had slid into the bank from the lines tension,  but anyway I considered just breaking it and calling it  a night.  But, I tried reeling it in a bit and got back about 5 yards.  Something didn't feel right.  Fisherman senses.  Who knows?  But I thought I'd try to get some more back and started working my line and rod.  You know these French molinetes are great inventions.  I remember when we used other tackle. After getting all of my line back I thought I felt a felt a wiggle and started hoping that I had caught something and that I'd get unhooked from the branch. But there was no branch.  Just weight that started pulling the other way and out into the live current.  That's when I screamed at Erone to wake up and give me a hand.  You see where I fish there's a 20 foot drop off. The declining bank drops right off and its slick as you know what.  No real light and if you catch something big you have to haul it up 20 feet and it weighs a lot more out of the water.  Erone woke up irritated like any half drunk and I told him I had something big.  He asked me if I was drunk or having a dream but started moving.  I keep working the big thing that was now feeling more and more like the big one.  As it headed out to the moving current I saw a flash of light reflected off his back from my night lantern and it WAS a FISH.  Now he started really  fighting, and I was the happiest guy on the river bank.  And a half an hour of Erones bitching and my making my way down the darken bank and handing the rod up to him so that I could get a hold of the leader, I finally got it in my hand, the leader.  We use a 2 foot long flexible leader.  And I started trying to haul what ever it was in.  Took me 10 minutes to realize that I caught a 30 lb. PACU.  Pacu is a fish that looks like our croppie.  Runs in schools too and when you catch one, if you are quiet you can catch 20.  One bit of noise and they're off.  You catch one and the others run away at any sign of noise.  Normally they bite on a fruit called genipapo.  Funny latin-american smell to the fruit.  You wouldn't eat it. But the pacu love it.  Can smell in the water 500 yards down stream.  But they also eat meat.  No real teeth to speak of.  They really good eating up to 10 lbs. After that they full of fat.  Well, after struggling with him up the slick bank we saw his real size.  I hadn't ever, ever seen one bigger that 20 lbs.  Oh, there are some but you don't see or catch them, you only hear about them around the bar tables or at the fire sides. but, there he was and all ours.  That fish even cleaned the invaders plow and shut everybody up.  Except me or course and I'm still talking about that fish till today.  Why not?  But don't be satisfied with other peoples fish stories, come on down to the Pantanal and catch your own. There are plenty left.

By Dion Ross

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