Suddenly
single, with children grown and off to school, I realized that not only
did I not have to remain in the miniature-minded town where I’d resided
for almost 20 years, but I didn’t have to stay
on this continent! (I would however, have to remain on the planet for now.)
There I stood perched on the edge of the second half of my life, ticket
to anywhere in hand, ready to jump. But which direction? Expatriates! They’ve
been there and done that.
Curious about
how, where, and why, I decided I to visit expats in Central America, Bangkok,
Paris, India, South America, and elsewhere to find out first hand what
expatriate life was like and to share with you their stories. It is to
be sort of a large-scale house hunt.
In the book
“Escape from America”, Roger Gallo says: "Are Americans walking away from
America without saying goodbye?... Americans are perhaps the first people
in history who have been able to afford the luxury of voluntary emigration
unforced by famine, disease, imminent danger, religious intolerance, or
the gnawing desire for economic betterment. It seems that what was once
inconceivable is now reality. The countries that our parents left behind
are quickly becoming more desirable places to return to and to live in
for many of us, than living in America. The culture, the ambience, the
pace, the attitude of the people; whatever it is we are seeking, no longer
seems available in America. The 'greatest country on earth' has lost its
charm. We would rather sit at a sidewalk cafe' or piazza than a McDonalds...
Borders have suddenly become not much more than meaningless lines drawn
on maps by governments... They are a ring of defenses around nothing."
Gallo goes
on to tell about the increasing number of Americans who are choosing life
in another country, and to describe some of the more favorable expat havens.I
began my search last May in Placencia, Belize.
There I discovered
the most pristine, white sand beaches, cerulean waters, and aquamarine
skies I’d ever seen in my life. Did I mention the hundreds of islands scattered
just offshore, or the untamed jungle with its wildlife? And that was just
the scenery above the water. A few miles offshore lies the world’s
richest natural barrier reef providing unmatched scuba diving and sport
fishing.
In Belize I
met expatriates ranging from 20 year Belizean resident, Kitty, who owns
and runs Kitty’s Place, to retired Peter and Marcie who are supervising
the construction of their ocean-front mansion, to hippies wailing Bob Dylan
songs at the Lagoon Saloon, to Janet, hotel manager, recently arrived from
South Carolina who, when I met her, was at Placencia’s sandy-strip-through-the-jungle-airstrip
loading a vial of her blood onto a plane to be delivered to Belize City
for malaria testing. (It came back negative. Too many rum and coconut drinks
was the verdict.)
Richard and
Linda arrived on the 42 foot Ocean Gypsy the week I was there, having survived
Hurricane Mitch, the subsequent death of a friend who was thrown overboard
in the storm, and six months of repairs on their boat in an electricity-less
outpost coastal town in Mexico. In Placencia, Belize, unlike Paris, I settled
in for a nap every afternoon in an audio space saturated with the melodious
songs of birds. On the other hand, the sand flies in my bed kept me twitching
and slapping, preventing me from napping as assuredly as the landscapers
in the Paris garden below. This week---Paris, France. Talk about disparate
locations.
Oscar Wilde
said about the Grand Dame of expat havens, “When good Americans die, they
go to Paris.” 75,000 of those “good Americans” live in Paris and environs
now. It’s a city where 300 year old buildings line the Seine, where lovers
really do kiss on the Pont Neuf, and where boats chug lazily along the
city’s main artery.
As the curtain
falls on another day, the warm lights of Cafe Flore glow, beckoning me
inside where I join Cafe Philo, a philosophy discussion group consisting
of expats.
Twenty year
American expat, Gayle Prawda, moderates tonight’s discourse on “Morality--Does
It Impinge on Our Freedom?” Parisiennes disparage what they consider rampant
American puritanism---as evidenced by the fact that almost no one has given
up smoking in spite of popular opinion. It’s a city where intellect, culture,
and style are valued above geographical beauty and solitude. Where every
trade is considered an art, whether it be the daily baking of croissants
or the designing of a building. Paris is a city where beauty and good taste
are written on everything from the food, to street fashion, to its eighty
museums, to the magnificent layout of the city, to its stunning architecture,
and the parade of women so gorgeous that you wonder if it’s in the Parisienne
genes. On the other hand, Paris is a city where the racket of the street
cleaner (who scours the Paris streets 365 days a year including Christmas)
comes through your morning window long before the sun does and where you
can spend a whole day trying to extricate yourself from the traffic circling
the Arc de Triomphe.
The reasons
for expatriating to these two countries are uniquely different. One expatriate
follows the pioneer call of his heart, yearning to be the first , if not
the only settler, in an untamed country. He or she wants to regain control
of their hard-earned money from government bureaucracy, and to escape the
cacophony of urban life. They want to peel off their suits and wing tips
permanently, and to sink their toes into the sand by the sea. The
other expatriate yearns for an urban environment which stimulates and is
saturated with civilization--- in the form of grand architecture,
intellectualism, culture, art, food, language, history, and all-around
creative inspiration. And they want the company of millions of other like-minded
souls---so much so, that they’re willing to pay 20% higher taxes in a country
that invented the word bureaucracy.
Regardless
of the locale in which they’ve chosen to live, American expatriates have
a fundamental characteristic in common. They refuse to settle for “medium”.
These are folks who live life large. Indeed, American expatriates are designers
of their own lives.
“Where ever
you go, there you are.” someone once said. I would add to that, that wherever
you go, someone or something else will be there too. Be it man or mosquitos,
it’s called sharing the planet. You get to choose.