Escape
From America Magazine
A Laowai in China -
A Foreigner in the Middle Kingdom
By Rick Kelty
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| I have been
living and doing business in China for the better part of eight years.
I arrived in the summer of 1991 as a "Foreign Expert in Business" after
being recruited by the Province of Shaanxi. I was to teach at the Post
and Telecom University in Xi'an, the ancient capital and home of the Terra-cotta
soldiers along with the many tombs and temples from the Qing dynasty -
from about 2000 years ago. As a Foreign Expert, I was allowed housing and
a special Resident Visa with my very own "special Chinese passport". I
was paid a high salary, by local standards, which amounted to the equivalent
of US$ 100 per month, 25% of which was paid in actual hard currency the
rest being a mix of local Renminbi (RMB) and Foreign Exchange Currency
(FEC) the later of which is no longer used. I remember being paid
the first time and realizing that while in College I used to make more
in tips on a good night at the steak house I worked at, but that was a
different time and whole different place. I was now in China, the infamous
Middle Kingdom, the land of the forbidden "Three T's" - Taiwan, Tibet and
Tianamen Square. This was to be the start of my long and ongoing love/hate
relationship with China.
I have long
since moved on from the University days of Xi'an and have married a local
lady and we have set up a wholly owned Chinese Consulting company based
in Beijing. I have never really left China since my first arrival and during
this entire period, China and the Chinese people have never ceased to amaze
me. To say China is changing, is an overused term and one that is equally
guilty of being a vast understatement. Gone are the days, at least in the
bigger cities, of Coca Cola being the only Western product available. I
can remember the feeling I had seven years ago when I first noticed a package
of M&M's (plain) on a shelf in a hotel. I immediately bought them,
it seemed as if they were old friends, and I ate the entire pack, one M&M
at a time. It must have taken me thirty minutes to finish them all. Now
in China we have Budweiser, Pringles and even Diet Coke. McDonalds
and KFC can be seen opening new restaurants on almost every corner. And
I am sure it is only a matter of time before 7-11 and Circle K are fighting
for these same corners. Progress has come to China. |
Youthful
dance steps
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Gone also are
the days of every person, whether it be in the Post Office, State Retail
Store or
even a small restaurant, uttering the words "meiyou". Meiyou (pronounced
"mayo") roughly translated means - don't have, don't want or can't be bothered.
Even when one spoke near perfect Chinese - a rare occurrence (at least
for me) - to hear these simple two words mumbled in response to almost
any question I asked, was enough to send even the most patient "old China
hand" to the breaking point of exasperation. Needless to say the first
words I learned in Chinese were meiyou. This mastery of meiyou was followed
closely by another foreign favorite - "laowei", which is the actual word
for foreigner.The word laowei literally means - old outsider, and is pronounced
"loud" (without the d) and "why". This was a word used by almost every
Chinese person within fifty yards of a foreigner, and after awhile it became
almost as irritating as meiyou. If you were walking on the street or standing
in a store and you heard this word, even without fully understanding the
accompanying words of Chinese, and without trying to feel paranoid, you
always knew they were talking about you.
Well times
have changed and the big cities such as Beijing, Guangzhou and especially
Shanghai are thriving developed world class cities. If a person, young
or old, truly wants to experience another culture and become a part of
one of the worlds fastest and strongest economies, then China is where
you should go. With a little effort and patience, almost any "laowei" will
be able to master enough of the language and understand enough of the culture
to live fairly well. The crime rate is low, the opportunities many
and with the passing of each and every year, it has, and will, become easier
to live in China. Yes there are problems, as with all countries, but there
is also good money to be made with opportunities that no one should pass
up. China will continue to evolve and change, and as she does, she will
gain the confidence and economic power to set her own path for the future.
China is too big to ignore as she has more than twenty percent of the entire
human population residing within her borders. China will not go away as
she has shown the world great determination and sacrifice for stability,
and she has already weathered some storms that have set other countries
adrift.
For me, China
is similar to the Internet as she has become a puzzling phenomena almost
overnight, while at the same time, has commanded the attention of the entire
world? I suppose I could further the comparison by saying, that China,
like the Internet has the ability to pull me in deeper and deeper, because
the more I learn, the more I want to understand. And after having spent
so many years in China, I have come to the conclusion that China is something
that no one person can ever fully understand or master, but the challenge
to try, is always there, and shall remain so for quite some time. So I
shall plod on in my quest to master this perplexing Chinese puzzle.
My relationship
with the Middle Kingdom continues on...
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