Escape
From America Magazine
1,000 Mile Bike
Ride to Spain
By Jerry
Ritter
.
In October 1999, I set out alone on a bike
from
Zurich, Switzerland to Cadiz, Spain to get back in shape. The plan was
to get in condition as I biked along. Switzerland was probably the wrong
place to start - like training to fight Tyson while fighting him. I will
do it a little differently next time.
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Here are some excuses for what happened:
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For 4 years, 12 hours/day, I had been sitting
in front of a computer.
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Training was limited to flat Florida summer
sidewalks on Sundays.
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A 40 pound mountain bike loaded with 40 pounds
of stuff.
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French train people all say "you cannot cross
the French border into Spain with a bike on the train". And, "you can't
take a bike on a train in Spain". Both are untrue. I believed them and
tried to cross the unforgivingly, steep Pyrennes mountains on the coast
road from Perpignan, France to the Spanish border, a scenic, winding, 20º
grade nightmare. Do not try to go this way, unless you are Lance Armstrong
or Ray Vance. If you do, don't pass a bunch of restaurants full of festive
gourmets living it up. Do stop to eat and drink plenty. Don't focus what
little power your brain has left on catching the 6PM train from Portbou
to Barcelona. You probably won't make it anyway. I didn't.
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Beware of signs that say; "corniche". It obviously
means "to go from sea level to 1500 feet every mile for 50 consecutive
miles without eating or drinking anything".
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The last chapter of "Long Distance Cycling",
"Nutrition" should be read first. I read it in a French hospital. It says;
"when you are biking mountains you must drink a quart of water every 20
min. (not an Evian every 4 hours), or you will dehydrate. You must eat
every hour or your muscles will take all the glucose from your organs and
brain." If you're lucky, your brain will shut down and you will pass out
before you kill yourself.
Contrary to popular belief, Europe is not
expensive. Not on a bike and not if you are cheap, like me. I spent
about $40/day, including meals and hotels. The best place to find a good
hotel deal in Europe is near the train stations. A spin around that area
will locate several. Most have their rates posted near the front desk.
SWITZERLAND- $40/nite average. Even
in downtown
Zurich on the Limmatt River I paid only $60/nite at
the "Hotel Limmathof" for an excellent room. I reserved it by internet
before leaving the US. In Luzurn, the prettiest city in Switzerland,
a day's bike ride from Zurich, I stayed at the "Hotel Turist" with a room
right on the river, near the ancient covered bridge. See the first photo
below. It was taken from the room. $20/nite, including breakfast. Geneva
has
the highest room demand. It took a lot a pedaling after a long day to find
a hotel for $65. If you plan to stay in any big cities, its advisable to
make reservations ahead.
FRANCE- $20/nite average. The French
usually charge $1 extra for a breakfast roll and coffee in the morning.
Rooms are not generally clean, cheap or quiet, except in small towns away
from the tourists.
SPAIN - $10/nite average. The Spanish
people are warm and friendly. A welcome relief from France. The food and
wine are as good or better at half the price. The best hotels are the small
ones in little towns for $7-8. The rooms are clean and quiet. Wine and
food are excellent. Usually $4-5 for dinner with a glass of red wine.
| BIKING IN EUROPE IS SAFE.
The Swiss are generally helpful,
intelligent, proper, educated and multi-lingual. Swiss drivers will not
hit a bike because it would be highly embarrasing and would cost them a
big fine. |
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The French are generally rude,
insular and single-lingual. I hear many reasonable excuses for this, but
it's still not nice. The French won't hit a biker because the rider may
be French. France went all out on nuclear power plants. The beautiful Rhone
river valley has gigantic nuke plants every few miles next to Roman ruins,
the winds blowing presumed radioactive vapor up your nose. In south France
there are many real estate offices. Each has hundreds of listings. Seems
like good deals. 2br apts for $30,000, 4br homes from $50,000. Many small
farms for sale. But be wary of the old farmhouses. They can be a blackhole
for your dollars. The French say; "Our farms are suffering. The big US
farms have ruined our markets." I have a feeling that the French have an
unofficial surcharge to ruin Americans trying to restore old farms. |
| The Spanish are usually
warm, friendly, easy-going, pro-biking and forgiving of bad Spanish. Not
only can you travel in Spain on a train with a bike, the Spanish don't
charge extra for the bike. The roads in Spain are well marked and many
have bike lanes. Drivers here won't hit a bike because they don't want
any scratches on their new, shiny cars. They work hard to make the car
payments and pay the cellular bill. Everyone in Spain drives with one hand
on the wheel with the other holding the cellular phone while laughing into
it. |
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