| Come to
Myanmar (Burma) And Shop Till You Drop |
| The Capital
Yangon (Rangoon) is where you start |
| When it
comes to shopping, people are very partisan. They rave about Bangkok
or swear by Dubai. In the Middle East, women spend whole evenings comparing
the merits of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul with the Great Suq in Damascus.
Then again, my aunty Maggie who was born in Rangoon should know better.
She insists that anything she can't buy in Harrods' can certainly be obtained
in Hong Kong. Strange, isn't it, how worked up they get? Somehow, for them,
shopping has become inextricably mixed up with travel. Well, those of us
who live here know better as the real shopping experience is actually to
be had in Yangon (Rangoon).
Now, I can
hear some of you protesting in disbelief. |
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'Rubbish',
you say. 'We haven't got the Web and we can't purchase the latest computer
software!'
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Well, as I
see it, that isn't shopping: it's purchasing. Let's get it straight from
the start, shopping, like any other pursuit, has to be addressed seriously.
You don't just pop out of the office into the shop next door to go shopping.
On the contrary, you have to trawl the city and track down the right dealer,
taking your time, stopping to eat, entering into various conversations
on the way, making friends and networking as you go. |
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| Finally, you
will buy something. That is how to go shopping!
Besides, I
don't want to buy the Web, and I have a sneaking suspicion that if I adopt
the two principles of the real shopper, namely, take time and spend enough
money, I can obtain software to match any sold in Tokyo or LA. It is just
a case of finding the right outlet.
Now, that
is where Yangon (Rangoon) comes into its own. It has more purveyors
and retailers, more franchises and concessions, more traders, more vendors,
salesmen and more hawkers than any other town I know. Not only does it
score on this front, but it also offers the added excitement, for the true
shopper, that much of the trading is uncatalogued.
It's legal
and official but finding the dealer is the challenge. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| There are
dozens of retailers selling everything from hi-fi and photographic equipment
to Muslim prayer mats and worry beads.
You can buy
toasters, tea sets, tyres and twin-sets, televisions, teddy bears, tarpaulins
and tractors. However, the trading rationale is not immediately obvious.
Hang
Ten, the fashion store, rubs shoulders with the Pedigree Chum pet shop;
Sanyo is opposite The Hole in One: Golf Emporium. On the pavement,
digital watches lie beside fluffy toys; sequinned bags and peacock feathers
are propped against bundles of News Week; can openers and hair dyes front
the umbrella stall; mothballs and lipsticks share pride of place with pins
and coat-hangers; anatomical charts are next to Vogue dress patterns. It's
all there but where exactly remains a mystery.
The same principle,
or lack of principle, holds for food vendors who not only render all hope
of a diet forlorn, but have honed seduction to the limit. They offer sticky
rice, beans, deep-fried savouries, kebabs and skewers, palata, flat bread,
coconut rice, doughnuts, and exotic sweetmeats. Should you still resist,
there is a whole range of familiar western snacks to tempt you further. |
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| The street
has taken on the form of some vast kitchen, but if I wish to eat a balanced
meal, I have to proceed carefully, choosing my starter in one street and
my dessert in another. By the time I find what I really want, I am hungry
again. Could this be some cunning marketing strategy? I wonder? ... And
I must mention the markets where merchandise abounds. Every township has
at least one: Hladen Market, Yuzana Plaza, Theingi Zei, Thiri Mingalar
are but a few, and the market 'par excellence' for exotica and luxury items,
is Bogyuke. The ultimate goal for the shopping addict has to be a Sunday
trip to Bogyuke Market. Here, between the hours of 1000 and 1700, any day
except Monday, we can see locals and foreigners alike walking with that
rapt look which betokens men bent on finding a bargain.
There are delights
for everyone.No one need be bored. Foreigners target lacquer stalls and
debate whether to buy Shan bags or laphet. |
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| Should they
buy a kalaga to bring back to Singapore, jade or gem stones to take to
Europe or cheroots to smoke in Boston? Meanwhile, locals are snapping up
Giordano t-shirts to wear with the newly purchased longyi: men haggle over
emeralds or gold bracelets and an entire family inspects rattan furniture.
Two sisters dawdle between the cosmetics counter and the material shop,
making it an occasion, as they shop for stress or anxiety, as they fail
to find it among the bales of cloth.
It is just
a good excuse for backtracking to Theingi Zei, which covers an area of
more than four street blocks between Anawrahta and Mahabandoola. With such
scope for idling they will certainly be able to spend several more hours
fingering the textiles before making a decision. Besides, if the desired
fabric still eludes them they can console themselves with some Myanmar
taywah shampoo or buy some thanakha.
However, it's
tiring work this shopping. Perhaps a snack would be in order. Here again
the choice is enormous. Should one patronise one of the roadside cafes
or go to a more exclusive eatery? Will it be noodles or a dish of salad
or something sweet? Indeed, as Sunday is a holiday and we have plenty time,
a visit to Shwe Pu Zun near Lammadaw might be in order. Not only can one
find a range of the best cakes in Yangon here, but there is also an excellent
selection of ice-cream flavours. Who would guess that under its massive
golden prawn sign such delicacies are for sale? Yet, despite masquerading
as a fish shop, this is one of the best patisseries this side of Hong Kong.
After a snack,
it is back to shopping. Why not go for some fashionable footwear, some
wedge-soled slippers as featured in the TV commercial? But, where should
one go? There are so many shops. In addition, on every street footpath-vendors
spread their wares; pairs of fashionable slippers lie next stacks of kitchen
utensils. Whilst looking for German crockery recently I actual saw some
exquisite Malaysian sandals. Where was it exactly? Was it downtown near
Sule or was it in Hladen? I definitely remember seeing the pair I wanted
lurking next some bicycle gears. Were I not a real shopper, I would be
totally confused and feel a neurotic crisis coming on. Still that is not
a problem either, as the shopping hypochondriac can find plenty palliatives
in Yangon. A trip to any pharmacy will soon assuage all symptoms.
Throughout
the city there are enough chemists and pharmacies to ensure a constant
supply of tonics and vitamins to the most health-obsessed of individuals.
All kinds of treatments and placebos, both eastern and western, are available.
Moreover, should you be an afficinado of the sub-continent you need not
go without your ayurvedic potions.
For the total
experience one just has to slip downtown to the area around the lower blocks
of 26th Street where the apothecaries are busy with their mortars and pestles.
There, one will certainly find a nerve tonic. If toothache is a bother,
quickly purchase a vial of clove oil; lassitude calls for ginseng; for
inadequacies of a more personal nature, you can consume snake blood, gingko
leaf, and possibly you may be offered Viagra. There is a cure for every
affliction. Here is a calmative, which might do the trick for the over
zealous shopper, and it can be consumed either as soup or tea. Now, that
is what I call choice.
Scattered staying
with health? Should one check one's eyes? This could be the true test for
a shopper. Indeed, I have come out of certain European opticians vowing
to remain short-sighted, and I have lived in towns where an eye test meant
thick lens and granny glasses. Not so in Yangon, where I can purchase Raybans,
Dior frames and the latest trendy shades. The place to go is Shwe Bontha
Street. Here, every alternative shop offers everything from soft lens to
wrap-round goggles in a variety of designs. Moreover, they are certainly
cheaper than anything to be had in Harley Street or Tokyo. And talking
of Japan, brings me to super-markets.
Where can one
find a connoisseur's selection of seaweed and spices, cooking utensils
and rice –steamers, green tea and dragon claw cough sweets? Go to the Japanese
supermarket in Golden Valley. No ex-pat need crave wafer thin crackers
or crunchy appetisers as eaten in Osaka. Should you have more basic needs
and want to stock up on bottled water or cellophane wrapped tomatoes then
drive to City Mart or Eight Mile where you find yourself being seduced
by the Malaysian teas on offer. A raft of Chinese spices and sweet plums,
however, will distract you from the Scott's Porridge Oats you set out to
buy.
I could go
on and on. Books, CDs, hair attachments, neck ties, mobile phones, tumble
driers, brassieres and Beethoven cassettes, second-hand books, golf clubs,
Marmite, silk saris and embroidered waistcoats, I have seen them all on
my way home from work. All around me, consumer goods, seductive and inviting,
beckon and entice.
Satellite Dishes
are seen on almost every rooftop. One chap said that he could tune into
200 channels and watches the news on CNN, ABC and live football from Australia.
Hell, what more do you want. Each day the consumer in me says, 'Next time,
I shall pop in and buy that!'
Fortunately,
by the time I do, the coveted object has disappeared, and I can hang onto
my hard-earned kyat (local currency). Nevertheless, that is why I think
Yangon (Rangoon) is a shopper's paradise.
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