| There's
No Place Like Home |
| A "Stranger
in a Strange Land" Settles In |
| By Larry Jer |
| I awoke
to my new reality. From the alley three floors below, the morning baritone
plea to exchange gloves for money drifted hypnotically into my consciousness,
steadier than my heartbeat. Padding to the kitchen, I threw matches
at the gas burners while adjusting the propane flow with clamps and thumb
valves. Six in the A.M. and I needed coffee. There was none.
And worse, I didn’t know how to get any. I boiled water to keep busy.
Outside, scores
of future pharmacists crawled on their bellies across the soccer pitch
in front of the building where I lived. Military training. Chords of “Que
Sera Sera” bleated from the speakers attached to my apartment block’s
wall. |
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| Vancouver,
Canada, never seemed so far away. But here I was in Northeast China, Shenyang
to be exact, twelve hours by rail from Beijing, six hours by bicycle as
the joke goes.
I signed
on for a one-year hitch to teach English at Shenyang Pharmacy College,
but mere hours after I dropped my luggage, I was told that I’d have one
month free from lessons to get accustomed to my new surroundings. Those
who informed me vanished as quickly as they had come. Normally, you
wouldn’t catch me or anyone complaining about a job that starts with a
four-week paid vacation, but this was different. I was anxious to start
working if only to have some direction.
Now,
I’m not prone to panic-attacks, but there I was on the other side of the
world with no idea where to eat, shop, or get around, and even if I did,
I didn’t have the language skills to cope. I tackled this problem by sleeping
roughly eighty-five percent of the time. The remaining fifteen percent
was spent losing weight.
As I mulled
over my problem, there came a knock on my door. It wasn’t pizza, but
it was the next best thing. |
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| A petite,
bespectacled lady squinted at me and introduced herself as Miss Dai, a
colleague in the English Department. She wanted to improve her English
and would I be interested in trading some conversation for Mandarin lessons?
Miss Dai
was a regular visitor those early days, cramming my head with basic
Chinese—what I should say, what responses I might hear. As we got
became better acquainted, she confided that she was curious just how a
person like me would get by.
A person
like me? Let me explain: There’s a magazine published from my
hometown entitled “Banana,” which celebrates Asian-Canadian lifestyle.
Those of you who have heard the term know it is a metaphor describing North
American-Born Chinese... yellow on the outside, white on the inside. That
nails me near perfectly. If I had a “Chiquita” tattoo... well,
you get the point. |
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Offshore Resources Gallery
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| I speak a
smattering of Cantonese, but in Northeast China, Mandarin rules.
Like bringing a Q-Tip to a piñata festival, Cantonese just can’t
get the job done.
So, I studied.
I role-played. I listened to pronunciation tapes Miss Dai had prepared
for common scenarios... grocery shopping, going to the barber’s, getting
my fire-engine-red lady’s bike repaired... errands most wouldn’t give a
second thought. Instant illiteracy puts a shine on the mundane. Miss
Dai just wanted to observe, to be there as a lifeline when necessary.
I think my struggles amused her. Off to market went the student and
teacher.
“Two pounds
of sex, please,” I said, standing expectantly in front of the lady
selling bananas. I knew right away something was askew when those
within earshot, a vendor lolling on a bed of watermelons woke from his
torpor; the man fanning flies away from a porcine carcass stopped dead;
my companion, Miss Dai, nearly burst into flames from blush-heat.
Miss Dai,
whose perpetually pinched face belied her kind heart, gathered herself
and |
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| ushered me
out of the market before I got even a whiff of any bananas (or sex!)
to lecture me on my pronunciation and to have a good belly laugh over the
whole affair. Daily life, humble as it might be, fully immersed in another
culture, offers an endless supply of challenges whose resolutions often
surprised as well as satisfied.
Next,
a simple mission: my first trip to the barber’s. I anxiously cycled
to the bustling market area close to my flat and identified my target salon
by the candycane-striped pole, shiny coversheets airing on a clothesline,
and the unmistakable scent of hair tonics. The use of aerosols so strong
in fact that I doubt any ozone layer exists over that shop anymore.
I consulted
my notes and felt secure I could communicate through stilted Mandarin and
the international two-finger symbol for scissors that I required a trim. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| The stylist
grasped my intention heroically and promptly fetched a chart that featured
fifty images, same gentleman, forty-nine wigs of differing hairstyles.
I presume one was his own genuine hair. I chose #35 which most closely
resembled my own, just neater. Off came my glasses, on went the cover
over my shoulders, and out came the shiny bright shears and the comb missing
more teeth than a hockey goon.
True enough
what a friend told me: Once they know you’re a foreigner, they’ll treat
your hair like it was royalty’s. Yes indeed, my mop was treated like
a king’s all right ... Don King’s. As the artiste happily snipped
away, a few casual onlookers grew in numbers. Being nearsighted, “blind
faith” never rang more true.
When the last
of those tiny niggling hairs were brushed off my nape by a giant peanut-shaped
sponge, my glasses were returned and lo, my hair upon close inspection
resembled not at all #35 nor any other on “the chart.” My
new look was a kind of cross between Diana Ross (think Supremes, circa
1963) and Pebbles, last known address: Bedrock City.
When the good-hearted
stylist excitedly gave me a big grin and bigger thumbs up, I had to counter
with “No Okay,” and point with renewed vigor to good ol’ #35, who
now (was it my imagination?) seemed to be smiling smugly at me.
Disheartened
but ever the professional, the barber rinsed out his work and set to reshaping
my hair, this time respecting the laws and confines of earthbound physics.
The second pass was workable; though, I looked like I was losing a fight
against gale-force winds. I paid my five yuan (a Canadian buck)
foregoing the extras, one of these add-ons being an eyelid shaving with
a straightrazor stropped on a whetstone by a squatting handyman, streetside.
Were my eyelids such a hirsute tragedy?
A fresh
haircut is a terrible waste if you don’t sport it. I brought
with me from home a keen passion for basketball, and praise Nike, on campus
there were four full-size courts. In a city of four million, finding
a few souls for half-court was a breeze. I made some quick and steady
friends the same way I did on every court I’d ever stepped foot...
I brought the ball.
I spent
some few hours on the pavement shooting the pumpkin. As I became
a familiar figure there, a handful of brave English students would shyly
sidle up, and one by two, we’d get into tremendous games. Daylight often
quit before we ever did.
There were
introductions before each game, of course, Chinese people being just as
polite as you might imagine. As I had trouble remembering and/or
pronouncing their names, a few faithful huddled and decided they would
give themselves (and others) English names.
Occasionally,
we’d cycle over to the next college and play some challengers.
Our crew had some English at their disposal, and so they helped me keep
track of the opposition by nicknaming our counterparts by some distinguishing
feature.
At one point,
I had to pause and savor the slightly surreal bend of the whole scene.
There we six stood. My team: Lithium, Mars, and me (Mr. Larry)
squaring off against Eyebrow, Tight Shorts, and Big. Pharmacy students
can trash talk it seems. Who knew?
Days turned
into weeks, and before I knew it, the grace month was over and my teaching
assignment was upon me. Miss Dai escorted me to my classroom,
and as we entered, the entire class stood as one and applauded, as is their
custom. I looked around the room and recognized some off the playground,
many who waved greetings, others from around the campus, all of whom made
me feel this was home. I applauded them back. It seemed fitting. |
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