| Thailand
A Place Expats Call Home |
| story by
Harold Stephens |
| courtesy of Vichit Sukaphat
and Dacho Buranabunpot |
| Thailand
is more than a place: it's a mood. It's this mood that makes the country
alluring to foreigners, and home to many thousands of expatriates.
But why Thailand
in particular? Can we not find what we are looking for in other places
perhaps Paris, or maybe Tahiti, or any of the thousands of dream spots
around the world?
We all search
for that place in the sun where we can find those things that appeal to
us the most, whether it be our mental and emotional requirements or our
physical and worldly needs. Thailand offers these. |
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| For the expat
living
in Thailand, it's not the lack of love for one's home country, or the
desire to flee from an unhappy home, nor is it for political, economic
or social reasons, that brings him here. The reason might be more complex,
but their motives are quite simple. It's not so much to escape as it is
to find, and they find what they are looking for in Thailand.
Look at
the image that Thailand presents to the world. It's one of enchantment
and excitement: a land of golden temples, with tiny bells tinkling in the
breeze; a country with lofty mountains, tropical forests and endless off
shore islands; a nation of smiling people and happy children, and monks
in saffron robes moving in silent animation; a country interlaced with
rivers and canals, called klongs, with rice barges, "rafts" of teak logs,
ferryboats and river buses all gliding along in a kaleidoscope of changing
colours. It's a Mecca for shoppers looking for the exotic, for superlative
silks and gemstones, and intricately decorated objects; a country of tropical
resorts with palms and white sand beaches; a country with great food.
A few years
back, a large Buddha, being moved to a new location, cracked. |
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| Examination
revealed that the Buddha was coated with a concrete veneer--placed there,
no doubt, to fool invading armies centuries ago--beneath which was a statue
of solid gold, weighing some 5 l/2 tons. The government tried to place
the Buddha under guard in a locked museum, but the monks and people objected.
The Buddha, they said, belonged to them, meant to be seen and worshiped.
Today, the Golden Buddha is in Wat Trimitwitthayaram near
the railway station, where devotees go to pray and tourists come to stand
in awe.
At a press
conference, writer
Robin Dannhorn, an expat who lives in Bangkok,
was asked why he chose Bangkok to work and live. We expected an erudite
answer that would be deep and psychological. Instead he simply said, "On
the tiny soi where I live, a cock crows in the morning and during
the day chickens scratch in the dirt." Robin lives off Silom Road,
with all its high-rises, Macdonald's and shopping malls at hand. |
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Offshore Resources Gallery
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| Austin
Berry, another expat living in Bangkok, when asked a similar
question, gave a two-word answer - "no graffiti".
Both these
remarks have something to say for Bangkok. To the Thais, the residents
of Bangkok, this may not be meaningful, but to the foreigner, who may come
from cities littered with graffiti, it is. Bangkok has the standards of
an international city, and yet it can be rustic. You find people fishing
in the river that runs through the heart of the city, and even in the small
klongs.
And where else but in Bangkok can you see elephants walking down main thoroughfares.
Anything can happen in Bangkok, and does.
Thailand
is art that's seen everywhere. One expat told me he doesn't need to
buy paintings to decorate his apartment in Bangkok. All he needs do is
open a window. "Everywhere is a painting," he said. And how true! Glittering
temples, so numerous that no matter where you are, there are always one
or two in view. Shrines and stupa tower, protruding above shops
or glimpsed between modern high-rise buildings, poking up from forested
hilltops, jutting up on rocky shores. |
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| Palaces with
crenellated walls like those in storybooks. Monuments at every turn.
The irony
is that these places stand side by side with magnificent five-star
hotels, shopping plazas with brand names, cinemas with the latest movies
and theatre houses with Broadway plays, and vast green parks and open areas.
The mood
of Bangkok was captured in print by a seaman who sailed up the Chao
Phraya River a hundred years ago. "One early morning we steamed
up the innumerable bends, passed the shadow of the great gilt pagoda, and
reached the outskirts of town.
There it was,
spread largely on both banks, the oriental capital which had yet suffered
no white conqueror. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Here and there
in the distance, above the crowded mob of low, brown roof ridges, towered
great piles of masonry, king's palaces, temples, gorgeous and dilapidated,
crumbling under the vertical sunlight, tremendous, overpowering, almost
palpable, which seemed to enter one's breast with the breath of one's nostrils
and soak into one's ribs through every pore of one's skin." The seaman
later gave up the sea he loved so much and took up the pen. His name was
Joseph
Conrad.
The mood that
Conrad found is still here. You can find it on Bangkok's river, as he had,
or at a simple temple procession marching down a dusty lane in Chiang
Mai, or upon a lonely sun-drenched path leading to a hill-tribe
village. In Thailand you feel very alive, and like Conrad, feel
life is to be felt to the very tips of your fingers. There is always something
happening, or not happening, depending upon what you want.
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