| They visited
Costa Rica in 1992 and decided to take a gamble. “We wanted a break
from the pace,” said Johnson, “And Costa Rica seemed to offer a
pace something like California in the ‘50’s.” They settled on a 10-acre
hilltop ranch with a 180-degree view of San Jose, the Costa Rica capital.
The University of California, Berkeley-trained architect planned to put
his 20 years of commercial real estate experience to work building homes
and a development overlooking the city. But recession hit, and as the 1993
holiday season approached, they decided to sell their land and have an
adventure.
“We had
heard about Bocas del Toro, but there were no maps to show us how to get
there,” said Johnson, “It was a forgotten corner of Panama.”
The family
took a long, two-day drive from San Jose into Panama, traversed the continental
divide and went to Chiriqui Grande to catch a ferry to Almirante and then
a boat that zipped them over glassy seas to Bocas. “Because of my training
in Architecture at UC Berkeley I was always interested in a planned pedestrian
community....,” said Johnson, “When we stepped off the boat in Bocas,
we saw first-hand a fantastic pedestrian community. The main street was
a block from the airport. All the services were in easy walking distances.
There was a park and a grandstand, and the provincial government seat was
in a classic Spanish building.”
“We fell
in love with it.”
American
Teenagers - Something you'll never see in Boquete. These girls
are on Isla Solarte. I met young people from around the world in
Bocas Del Toro, some of whom had come to Bocas on their own as travelers,
and others who were part of an expatriate family. These two loved
Bocas Del Toro, and they loved Isla Solarte. The area also has a large
international surfer community, with young people from around the world.
I met more American retirees in Bocas Del Toro than I have met anywhere
else in Panama. The wide range of expatriates, and expatriate lifestyles
will serve to maintain a diverse and interesting culture. (Bocas Del
Toro has one of the lowest crime rates in the world - It's a place where
your children can grow up safe.)
The Restaurant
scene is also good. One could eat in a different restaurant every day
of the week. Boquete has nothing to compare, which is why so many
expats are unhappy with Boquete. There is a very large European community
in Bocas Del Toro and many of the restaurants are European owned.
High mentions
in most travel books - There were groups of Scandinavian girls with
backpacks, blue water sailors who make Bocas there home port, scientists
working for one of the several scientific groups based in Bocas, such as
the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute and others. The area abounds
with turtles, whales, dolphins and a wide range of exotic sea life.
A Very
Hip Place - The hipness of the place is phenomenal. There is
actually a restaurant, called Crawl Key Restaurant, (Or: Kraal Cay) that
is 20 minutes by boat from Bocas town, situated on the southeastern side
of Bastimentos Island, and surrounded by lush mangrove. The island is in
the middle of no place, if one ignores the fact that it is one very exciting
location. You can see for miles in every direction and there is just
ocean, palm covered islands, and the sky above. It's like having
a hamburger stand on the moon. Except the place is jumping. Fresh
lobster, fish, turtle, and conch are just a sample of what you'll find
on the menu at Kraal Cay, delicately prepared by seasoned chefs with island
herbs and spices. During peak afternoon hours it is not uncommon to find
the restaurant full, with locals and tourists alike babbling about the
mornings encounters, perhaps the dolphins at Bocatorito or the underwater
caves at Zapatilla Cay. ...I like Bocas.
They loved
it so much that they bought a lot in town on their first visit. Actually,
it was a lot in the water. All of the beachfront buildings were built on
stilts over the water because of the calm seas and small, 2-foot tides.
The Johnsons spent 10 days in Bocas and made a decision. This was a place
they could live. The question, of course, was how.
Over the course
of the next two years, Johnson kept returning to Bocas and got to know
the caretaker of nearby Isla Solarte, a smaller island a few miles closer
to the mainland. On one of the trips back, they met a Florida businessman
known as The Colonel, who had bought about half of Isla Solarte years before
and needed help surveying the island. As Johnson helped map the land, snorkeled
in the pristine water and observed the indigenous peoples’ peaceful life,
his attachment to the island grew.
The Colonel
offered to sell Johnson half of Solarte, about 400 acres, in 1994. It was
then that Johnson’s search in the hilltops of Costa Rica, through the jungles
of Panama and onto the shores of Bocas crystallized into a vision of a
development that captured the spirit of Bocas del Toro.
“I didn’t
want to build houses,” he said, “I want to build a community.”
The community,
as Johnson envisions it, is an extension of the existing stilt construction
of the area. Only he is taking the building a step farther, intending to
build the largest over-water, pole construction community this side of
Bora Bora. The houses, connected by a string of walkways, will be clustered
in a 500-acre planned development and will range in size from 500 to 3,000
square feet. Prices will range from $40,000 to $180,000. A portion of the
island is planned for Sausalito-style houseboats, while another section
will be set aside for stilted land huts.
The overall
attractions that Johnson wants to retain are the pleasant character of
the community, the interaction of the island communities – and the diverse
activities.
“There is
amazing diversity there; everything is possible. There is surfing, white-sand
beaches, snorkeling, fishing, scuba diving.”
The character
of the indigenous people who live on the islands of Bocas, says Johnson
emerges in small ways.
“Every day,
you see Indian children, some no more than 5 years old, paddling to school
in Bocas from different islands, dressed in freshly starched white shirts
and spotless blue pants and dresses. These kids are coming from thatched
huts and their parents are struggling to survive. But it is important
to them that their children be presentable and clean.”
The Johnsons
have been back in Granite Bay since the summer of 1995, working on permits
and plans for developing their dream on Isla Solarte. They are now selling
lots for the 300-home development, and will soon begin cutting access roads.
Johnson is planning a mostly pedestrian community with a few small hotels
and grocery stores included in the overall architectural plan.
The indigenous
people living on the island have their own land and thatch-roof homes on
neighboring property. “We’ve been working closely with them to maintain
the character of the island,” Johnson says. Solarte is also spitting
distance from a huge national sea park that draws snorkelers and scuba
divers from both hemispheres. Recent improvements to the small airport
on Bocas has made it much easier for visitors to get here than when Johnson
first arrived. |