| Musings
on Living in Jakarta |
| By Jeannie
Fairfax |
| Jeannie Fairfax
is a freelance writer living and working in Indonesia and Malaysia.
Her work takes her to many places including trips into Sumatera Bara, recently.
She has proposed articles on living and working in Sindri and "Made-Up
Jobs: The Ever Entrepeneural Indonesians. After communicating with
Escape from America Magazine and reading some of the stories written by
contributors on living overseas and unique travel, she writes, "Now I better
understand why I always feel weird, and a little different (from all my
neighbors) and from all the world unless speaking to another independent
traveler."
The following
article is really three. Fairfax gives her unique impressions of
living in a unique place. |
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Walking
at Night in My Neighborhood
I live in a
distinctly Indonesian neighborhood, or, "kampung." And, although
bordering Jalan Sudirman, one of Jakarta's largest, most important thoroughfares,
here in "Ben-Hill" (Bendungan-Hillerman) I can safely wander
the curving, crooked paths day or night and feel far away -- in another
world from the city.
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The houses are
joined at the sides. A family group lives in the five or ten meter width
of a typical house which is quite contiguous to the next family and just
two meters at most from the neighbor "across" the path. |
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| Walking
through all of this you see into people's lives. There are living rooms,
some without a pane of glass in the window, just two feet from me, as I
walk the center of the path street. In the living rooms, teenage daughters
sit together on the floor, heads aimed at a small TV. Women prepare the
evening meal in pairs, or bunches. In groups they stand outside and
visit while the dark thickens, while the heat abates and the evening breeze
commences. Men sit together on little cooling pads beside the canals, talking
about what men talk about at the end of a day.
On Ben-Hill
the same rooster crows to his hierarchy over a stretch of field facing
the rumah sakit. Along the side streets, evening blossoms perfume the
air, and nightbirds sing against a backdrop of the scents of spicy
cooking and the busy sound of conversation. Just arrived, I thought, the
peeping, I heard, the lilt of calling nightbirds as I walked in the dark
amidst my vivacious neighborhood. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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What
People Do
The Parking
Directors
Parking Directors
are what I call the ones responsible for the constant whistling and shouting
one hears outside the building where you are having your massage, visiting
the dentist, or eating at a restaurant. These volunteer enforcers
of the rule-of-order are lively and colorful, but far less qualified than
a hermit in the Himalayas to direct traffic.
"TuRUSSSSSSSSs!"
goes the whistle. "TuRUUUUUUUSSss, TuRUUSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!"
For, without this vigorous noise and commotion, any backing
out of a parking space, or any driving forward onto the edge of the road
is deemed by the Parking Director and agreed upon by all else as absolutely
not possible! The Parking Director claims his territory by right of might,
or just plain stubbornness. He returns to the same location -- his
place of work -- everyday. He installs himself, equipped with
uniform and whistle, at parking areas, which is defined as any place a
car can stop, or wherever vehicles try to enter, turn around ,or leave
the flow of traffic. |
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| One arm
waves (directs) continuously in sweeping, exaggerated motions while
the great commotion is kept ongoing by means of shouts and whistles facilitated
with the hand of the other arm -- employed to snatch out the whistle intermittent
to powerful, bark-like bellowings. Often small groups of them will suddenly
appear and move big traffic along large avenues. At other times
whole gangs will appear even when the flow of vehicles seems to be
moving along quite jauntily. If there is ever the sound of argument
between two drivers, an adequate number of these enforcers of the rule-of-order
will miraculously appear to return traffic to its intended purpose.
Late in
the heat of the day when a director is feeling a teensy bit less exuberant,
the entire process will be reduced to just the mad, frenzied whirling of
the one arm in a rotary motion designed to both impel the otherwise incapable
driver inside the vehicle and to convey a fervent devotion to his duty. |
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| So, they
stand at all small intersections. They help the lucky to get out. They
stuff the requisite small sum (500 rupiah) into the less-whirled hand.
There's one who hails my morning taxi as I approach our road's tiny, bustling
intersection with Ben-HILL. But I know him, and don't really poke fun at
any. Heaven only knows what the streets would be like without them.
The are the enforcers of the rule-of-order.
Those GUYS
who MAKE NOISES in front of your house
Men push wagons
or carts laden with vegetables and fresh fowl, plastic goods, flower
pots and houseplants, even peripatetic cooking stalls complete with ingredients,
plates and fire for cooking! And it's all on wheels! You thought catalogue
shopping saves time!!
I wish this
were a recording! There's the very nasal one who makes his own distinct
sound that goes something like, "NIEMP!!" His cart is piled
high with jars of cooking oil. "NiemP, NiemP, NiemP!"
A sodden clanging
announcing a food car, probably the original fast-food. Seafood?
Fried rice? Chicken soup? Horrible fish-balls? He'll
light up and begin the cuisine if you only wave or clap. There's an old
man, actually saying the names of fruit I can understand, "MeLON!….
ManGA!…"
--"ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzing!"
a peddle cab passes, his bicycle causing a pleasant, percussive small
orchestra sound, "ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzxing!"
The man with
fruits, vegetables and dead chickens hollers, "Oooooooooo, EEEEEEEE,
eeeeeeee!!!" His papaya is fresh, his cabbage wilty, his daily takings
a matter of barter, and he's proud to be able to bring his produce to those
awaiting his arrival.
There is
one whose large, flat cart is here to take away old cardboard boxes.
He rustles up with nary a sound. There are ones with a shoulder pole
and two large covered pots. He hits the pots! There's the horrible
high-note whistle of one. He shoves and pushes along a one-of-a-kind
sea food cart with dolphins painted on his perambulated food stall, the
horrid whistle shooting out steam from a stumpy pipe.
I stopped for
shelter during a rainy night walk once, and one of these came in under
the same shelter, the owner smoothly removed the whistle from a vented
pot of boiling water, causing the whistle noise to slowly subside.
There's a "plastics" one with buckets and brooms, rugs, wash pans,
sifters, trash cans.
There's
a charming houseplant one. In the very early morning there's a boy on a
bike, no cart, who travels fast, shouting newspaper names. Very early,
too, the Ibu-Jamu-woman's call is gently moaned. She
has remedies of herbs and potions that will cure your every ill.
She is eye catching in a long skirt of batik, balancing the
basket of bottles on her head.
There are
the nine different voices raised together six times a day -- a call-to-prayer.
Ben-Hill's a densely packed neighborhood! This mild cacophony is best enjoyed
at dusk from a rooftop when bats clip across the evening sky's
short color display and the evening breeze leavens the past afternoon
heat. Throughout the evening and all night quiet reigns, good sleep is
possible. At five, five-thirty, before morning light, silent couples walk
for morning exercise.
Then, very
soon, the workers noises start again.
Motorcycle
delivery boys, who also carry passengers. Pembantu's scratch
the road outside the house with "brooms," then mind your house,
raise your kids, shop and cook your meals, wash your clothing, wash your
car (wash the driver???) open your gate for you, answer the phone.
If you own a car, you also have a driver, perhaps a night guard.
They say there's
a neighborhood security person, who rides the street at night, knows when
you have a guest staying, and who wants a monthly stipend for "watching
over" you. But as for me, as a sindiri female, there are all
the eyes and minds on Danau. Diatas noticing, inquiring, and discussing
my every daily destination or activity
But that also
works, like it did for me in Paris, as security. |
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