| BUDAPEST
Budapest is
a dazzling city, and has gotten bigger and more intense since the first
time we visited 15 years ago. Best to map-out where you are staying
in relation to what you want to see, park the car, and use taxis or public
transportation. Billy is always the designated navigator on our trips
because he has a private pilot's license and is pretty good with maps---it
still took us four hours to get from one end of the city to the other and
zero-in on the flea market. After that, another three hours trying
to find our way out and to the freeway. We did, however, get a real feel
for the city and glimpses of things tourists never see. We crossed every
bridge from Buda to Pest and back multiple times. We were even reduced
to tailing a car full of young guys with Bosnian tags at one point, because
they were in front of us, made the same mistake we did crossing the bridge,
turned around, and had their map out conferring with each other as they
negotiated the traffic. We figured wherever they were going might
be OK for us too at that point.
Tropicana
Casino, BUDAPEST
Looks like
a "Palm Room" right out of the 1960s. They play in US dollars and
even have a dollar-minimum blackjack table, so you can enjoy yourself for
a long time on a reasonable bit of money. Here I may have gotten
into one of those "contests" and wasn't even aware of it. For some
reason they make you check your jacket here. My husband didn't mind,
but I had on a short sleeve top, it was chilly, and I didn't want to.
The woman behind the desk said I MUST check my coat, or I couldn't play
at the table. I said, "OK, I'll just watch." Then the lady
next to her said I didn't have to check it, but I caught the daggers from
the first lady.
The next day,
I noticed the back of Billy's leather coat he had checked had a neat, round
half-dollar size hole cut out of it. He couldn't remember catching it on
anything, but I will give this establishment the benefit of the doubt,
and hope that it wasn't some kind of evil Magyar payback for misinterpreted
insolence. Don't check your coat there.
The hotel we
picked for one night in Budapest was spooky and not worth mentioning.
Better to plan ahead a little for accomodations in the city. And
check-in early.
The exchange
rate was even better than we calculated. We try to use American Express
whenever we can, (outside the cities, be sure to have Visa, Mastercard,
CASH), and when we got the bill for a dinner we had at a very nice Chinese
restaurant in the swanky part of town, the bill for everything, with tip,
was only $7. Maybe they made a mistake.
LAKE BALATON
100 km. from
Budapest, Lake Balaton is known as the Hungarian Sea, and is the largest
lake in Europe. It has a rich history, and is the most popular destination
for tourists after Budapest. Nearly one million visitors come for
holiday on its shores, or stay in accomodations farther inland, every year.
I think we were lucky it was off-season and we were able to pull-off at
random to take a few pictures. It was peaceful, the holiday hotels
were closed, and there was little traffic. I imagine the resorts
that line this lake that stretches for 77 km., and varies from 1-7 km wide,
are really hoppin' in the summer.
NORTHEAST
SLOVENIA
One of the
pleasures of traveling by car is that you never know what you are going
to discover. Pulling into a little nothing town called Murska Sobota
at 10 pm, dog-tired and looking for a hotel, the guidebook said there were
only two in town. One over-priced and ugly (we can verify that),
and the other a motel 2 km. up the road. The motel was full, and
a bit seedy-looking, but the proprietor was nice to point us in the direction
of Sinjor, a restaurant/guest house 1 km. farther. It was like finding
an oasis. Clean and inviting with strings of white lights strung
along the eaves of the Austrian-style architechture, the owner, Jolanka
Maucec, petite and well-dressed, greeted us as if she had been awaiting
our arrival.
We enjoyed
a late-night elegant meal, then retired to a room with crisp sheets, fluffy
down bedding, and slept like bears. The next morning, the same waiter
we had kept working until midnight greeted us like old friends, and Madame
Maucec was fresh and eager to talk politics and real estate. She
also gave me a high-quality guidebook to the gourmet restaurants of Slovenia.
Of course, she is listed. The bill for our stay, with dinner, wine,
breakfast included, with all the taxes, was $52. About half the basic
room rate for the big, ugly hotel.
ROGANSKA
SLATINA
A pretty "cur"
town famous for its healing waters, pampering spas, medical facilities,
and crystal factories. Four and five-star hotels available.
The Donat has a casino. We decided not to stay here because Billy
pointed out some of the guests walking around didn't look too healthy and
we might catch something (like the chance you take in a hospital).
He was joking, and we're not hypochodriacs at all (eat and drink everything
everywhere we go), just a bit conscientious about not picking up
a malingering or exotic bug. With all the incurable little critters
out and about the world these days, I think it's a prudent thing to consider
in a town like this. On the other hand, I have friends who
LOVE to come here at every opportunity for all the beauty treatments.
They prefer the Donat over the other hotels because the atmosphere is less
"clinical."
MARIBOR
Slovenia's
second largest city (pop. 135,000) took a big hit during the war and was
rebuilt during the prolitariat years, but the city center is still charming.
At the street market, we met one of the few Americans living and working
in Slovenia. His wife is Slovenian, and they moved to Slovenia to
organic farm and rear their son. He seemed very happy and content
with the decision (but was delighted to meet someone he could converse
with in English). From talking to them, I think there could be some
very good deals on houses with acreage in this area. I bought some
of their organic apple wine and got their address.
PTUJ
Population
12,000, one of the oldest towns in Slovenia, and a lot of interesting things
to see. Parking is relatively easy, and you can walk everywhere.
With a history that goes back to 69 AD, there are tangiable remnants of
the mysterious Mithraic religion that was similar to Christianity in some
of the rituals, and was popular among Roman soldiers and slaves.
The castle gift shop has outstanding postcards, handmade paper, and some
out-of-the-ordinary, un-kitchy souvenirs. We stayed at the centrally located
Mitra Hotel (clean, about $40 w/breakfast) and enjoyed a very good dinner
and service at Amadeus Gostilna down the street. |