Perhentian
Islands
by Emma Lewis
| Perhentian
Islands
Ok, here’s how not to arrive on the Perhentian
islands. Late in the afternoon during high season with no hotel.
Trudges along the beach can be fruitless and most nights a couple of people
are reduced to sleeping outside on the beach. The good point
about this is that there’s a good reason why the island gets so full up
– because it is a true piece of tropical, unspoilt idyll. Kuta beach
too commercialised? Samui become too built up? Perhentian is the
place to stop off. |
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The Perhentian are a cluster of islands off
the East coast of peninsula Malaysia and are only accessible by a one hour
boat trip from the main land. There are two main islands, known as
Besar and Kecil or more simply big and small island. Both rise up
out of the sea covered in a lush tropical rainforest and are fringed by
palm fronted, white sand beaches. Roads are non-existent and
the only way to get around is by the many small boats which ply round the
islands delivering guests, food, and collecting rubbish. Unlike more
famous Asian beaches, the Perhentian islands are remarkably undeveloped
and no high rise hotels, loud bars or concrete disturbs the natural landscape.
The only sign of commercialism is a kooky, small, neon Carlsberg sign attached
to a coconut tree outside a bar.
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In keeping with its undisturbed nature,
accommodation is in single storey wooden hut complexes which are normally
built round restaurants on the beach. The standards range from the
very basic hut with simple fan, to aircon with bathroom and pleasant verandah
to watch the sun go down. For those who demand room service,
a TV in the room and luxurious five star living, this is not the place
to come. But for those who like the luxury of the simple life, there
is accommodation for most tastes and budgets. |
The overwhelming feature of the islands is
the peace and tranquillity to be found here. Apart from the hum of
generators and the occasional passing boat, few reminders of a hectic city
life will disturb your stay. Moreover even when the islands are full
with 101% occupancy the beaches remain relatively quiet, particularly for
those used to the crowds of the Mediterranean or California.
The beaches are surrounded by clear turquoise water, at many you can gaze
down at fish swimming around your legs. Off the rocky edges of many
beaches there is fantastic coral. Most hotels will lend out snorkelling
equipment giving you an opportunity to explore an underwater world of amazingly
colourful fish. For the more energetic snorkelling and diving trips
can be arranged to outlying islands where even better diving is to be found.
Turtles lay eggs at one of the beaches on Besar, and if your lucky these
awesome creatures can be encountered when swimming round the island.
The islands can also be explored by canoe, the waters are normally calm
and you can happily paddle along the shoreline, stopping off perhaps at
another beach for lunch. There are also a number of trails leading
from one beach to the next overland, and it is an exhilarating experience
clambering through the rainforest, looking at the many birds, unique trees
and plants on display. Volleyball on the beach provides a good way
to let off steam at the end of the day – provided your not too exhausted
by the hours of sitting under palm trees!
Despite their location near the Malay Thai
border and the great array of dishes which come from this region, food
can often be plain on the island. Many restaurants serve a variety
of fried mee (noodles) or nasi (rice) with none of the accompaniments to
be found in other parts of Asia. A couple of places do however cook
a good curry, and the smarter hotels have selection of Western items.
For fish lovers, however, a number of restaurants cook up a real treat.
From the daily catch which gets brought up to the beach in the mid-afternoon
a fantastic barbecue is cooked up, often for as little as $3! Accompanied
by a variety of sauces – coconut and lemongrass, sweet and sour or curry
you can choose from barramundi, squid, shark kingfish, garoupa or whatever
else the fisherman have caught up with that day. The Perhentians
come under the restrictions of one of Malaysia’s most conservative states,
Terengganu. Consequently many restaurants, particularly those run
by Muslim Malays, do not serve alcohol. However, beer can nearly
always be found and most places don’t mind you bringing along take-outs
from the bars. Nightlife is very quiet, and many places are empty
by 10.30. A couple of beaches particularly on Kecil, light up bonfires
and these are a great way to sit round at the end of the day and chat to
fellow travellers.
| Perhentians are probably the most relaxing
place I have discovered. There not for those who like water sports,
swimming pools, and knocking back cocktails. But if you like sitting
on the beach, exploring coral reefs, and discovering the quiet life there
are few places to beat it. Just remember you’re not the only one
on this quest – book a hotel or risk an even more back to basic’s holiday
stretched out on the beach to sleep. |
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