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Having requested early embarkation, our voyage began not in Savannah, but in Philadelphia, since we could be driven there from our home in Ontario. Once at the docks it didn't take too long to spot the red funnel with the big blue star! We were able to drive right up to the gangway where we cautiously ascended the 47 steps and were escorted to our stateroom. It was a real surprise to find it so spacious in comparison with our previous cruise ship accommodation. There were comfortable twin beds, armchairs, desk space, lots of drawers and closets, and a big bathroom.
Mealtimes were usually with the captain or chief engineer, and here was the next surprise-the level of service. Two delightful Filipino stewards, Arturo Cruz and Rolando Garcia, looked after our every need or whim. Nothing was too much trouble. In fact, all the attention and deference was almost embarrassing, having been used to doing everything for ourselves. For a complete schedule of round-trip,
one-way and "Fly-Sail" rates, call the TravLtips Specialty Cruise
office at 800-872-8584. E-mail: info@travltips.com
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At sea, but not in port, passengers were welcome to visit the bridge, the electronically controlled navigational center. The view from the bridge was of a vast expanse of containers, some 20 feet, some 40 feet in length. They were lined up on deck, row upon row, four high, plus four high in the hold. Total capacity on board was 1,300 20-foot containers or equivalent. In every port, watching them being swung on and off like toys by 100-foot-high gantry cranes was a source of endless fascination. Their contents remained largely a mystery, apparently known only to the port agents. A number of the containers, called 'reefers,' were refrigerated. These would be delivered to the ship at the correct temperature and then maintained at that temperature by constant monitoring and the pumping in of cold air.
To the passengers, it all looked so easy, but both the captain and the chief engineer said they dislike the Panama transit-presumably because it's not so easy as it looks, even with a pilot, to take a big ship safely through a narrow passage. This year, 1999, the US transfers full control of the canal to the country of Panama. During the next few days we were surprised at how chilly it could be considering that we were not all that far from the equator. Later on there were very strong winds as well, but even the force eight gale with its high seas, strong swells, and crockery crashing in the galley didn't give the crew a break from their endless work of chipping, air blasting and repainting of the machinery and superstructure. One day we had a serendipitous stop at Pitcairn Island to pick up five passengers for the nine-day-trip to New Zealand. Approaching the Island that drizzly morning, we were treated to a most wondrous sight-a perfect 180° rainbow framing the Island, one end of the rainbow disappearing into the ocean, and the other end lying top of the water like a multi colored pathway to the pot of gold. Pitcairn Island, of "Mutiny on the
Bounty" fame, has only 38 residents but apparently many rats! Three
of the new passengers were rat exterminators returning to New Zealand.
The other two were islanders, one of whom, Tania Christian, is an eighth
generation descendant of Fletcher Christian, the leader of the mutineers.
They came out by longboat and then scrambled aboard the ship by way of
the ship's rope ladder. With them came a few woodcarvers and sellers
of honey, stamps, and postcards, all making good use of their allotted
hour on board! The five disembarked in Auckland, their destination-and
so did the rest of us-at least for a few hours; it was the first chance
in 28 days to walk on dry land.
Diversions on board, other than elective sea and sky watching, were mainly at the initiative of the crew. After working hard all day, they still had enough energy for two bingo nights, two barbecues on deck, one birthday party, and two frog races. The passengers were always invited, all of whom seemed to enjoy being part of their youthful enthusiasm and good humor. (Frog races consist of large wooden frogs threaded on ropes, the idea being to see who can be first to hop his frog across the finish line.) One morning, while on dolphin watch at the prow, we were greeted, not by dolphins, but by an enormous school of flying fish, shimmering silver in the sunlight as they skimmed across the water. And then there was the wandering albatross which followed the ship day after day. It reminded us of "The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" and of having to memorize bits of it at school. It just so happened that one of the passengers had brought his New Oxford Book of English Verse with him, so we borrowed it and were able to enjoy a half-hour's reread of Coleridge's (1700s) lengthy classic about the old sailor who shot an albatross with his crossbow because it was getting on his nerves. As punishment, a curse was laid on him requiring him to tell his story to every third person he met-"he stoppeth one of three." In the poem, the unlucky wedding guest never did get to the wedding because he had to stop and listen to the old mariner's tale. It wasn't until the day we were to reach Melbourne, that dolphins finally appeared-and there they were, dozens of them, frolicking around the wake in their graceful arcs. It was beautiful to see. Melbourne itself impressed us as being a dignified genteel city with lovely parks and handsome buildings. The Circle City Tram was a wonderfully convenient way to get around since they ran every eight or ten minutes, and there was no charge. Very quickly, it seemed our 40 days and 40 nights on board the Melbourne Star were coming to an end.
Our stay in Australia lasted two months, part of which was a three-week bus tour from Darwin to Perth. It was fantastic! From Perth we took the three-day Indian-Pacific train to Sydney and then flew home, full of happy memories. Current Data: There are four container ships employed in the Blue Star service from the U.S. east coast to New Zealand and Australia. The round trip itinerary normally embarks at Savannah with the voyage ending in Philadelphia upon the return. Early embarkation at Philadelphia or Norfolk and late disembarkation at Norfolk, Savannah or Houston can often be arranged-space permitting-for moderate additional fare. The usual duration of this voyage is about 66 days from Savannah to Philadelphia. After transiting the Panama Canal, the route usually includes Auckland, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Wellington and Auckland (2nd call); Port Chalmers, N.Z. is an occasional port. The ships in this service offer identical
accommodations for ten passengers in four double and two single cabins.
Round trip per person fares range from $4,290 to $5,742 off-season (March
through October) and from $5,346 to $7,128 on-season (November through
February). One-way passage as described in our story is available
to any of the usual ports, space permitting. The approximate 30-day
voyage from Savannah to the first call in Australia (usually Melbourne)
has off-season fares from $2,130 to $2,850 per person and from $2,640 to
$3,540 per person on-season. Age limit is 79 with possible extension
to 81 for Blue Star past passengers.
We have a complete section on freighter travel on our website ~ Escape From America By Freighter - Click Here - . |
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Freighter
Travel - - The ambiance is different, the pace is relaxed. You're
not surrounded by jitterbug tourists, you're meeting interesting people
in an informal setting. You're destinations are not on the itinerary of
the standard cruise ships. You are taking a trip and a vacation that is
as unique and memorable as any that it is possible to take. Traveling by
freighter is not for the ordinary. The ordinary is simply that...
ordinary. Traveling by freighter recalls the world of Graham Greene,
Paul Bowles and Joseph Conrad. It's almost decadent in the pleasure it
provides. It's damn exotic ...do it. 
There
were six other passengers, three Australians and three Americans, all so
different that it made for an interesting mix. Fortunately we liked
each other and got along very well. Every night at 8:00 p.m. we would
gather in the lounge to watch a video-with the understanding that it was
okay to fall asleep or get up and leave if it weren't to our liking.
What
did we do all day with no chores and no responsibilities? Did the
time hang heavily and the days drag by with no TV or radio, and no newspapers
except in port? The biggest surprise turned out to be that the answer
was, "no, not at all." In fact, the days just flew by as we 'busily'
occupied ourselves with laps around the deck, an occasional dip in the
9' by 15' pool, books from the extensive on-board library, writing, playing
Scrabble, doing needlework, exploring the ship from stem to stern, or simply
watching the ever-changing face of the sea and sky.
The
Sydney skyline was appearing ever closer and soon we were at the docks
of Port Botany. Botany Bay is the place where, in 1788, the First
Fleet anchored with its load of convict-settlers. It so happened
that on board the transports Charlotte and Lady Penryhn were convicts John
Small and Mary Parker. Eventually they met and married, and became
my great-great-great-grandparents. "To live on in the hearts and
minds of descendants is never to die"-motto of the Fellowship of First
Fleeters. Needless to say we had some happy reunions with assorted
cousins and especially with our son.