One option
for adventurous souls seeking a new life outside of their home countries
is property caretaking. This increasingly popular strategy provides
prospective expats with insight and experience into the culture and lifestyle
of another country - all while enjoying the benefits of living rent-free.
Dave and Sumana Harrison McCollam found property caretaking to be an exciting
new lifestyle that enabled them to enjoy early retirement in Oaxaca, Mexico.
The couple
explain, “We had both just about had enough of ‘life in the fast lane’
(and also the not-so-fast lane) when we decided to make an extended trip
through Mexico." Of course, this necessitated many changes: Dave
dissolving his partnership of twenty-two years in a catering business in
California, and Sumana letting go of setting up accounting systems for
small businesses.
After purchasing
a small RV and modifying it to tow a 650 KLR Duo-Sport Motorcycle (just
perfect for Mexico), the couple headed south, at that point not actually
knowing that they would end up in Costa Rica. They lingered in places like
San Miguel de Allende, Lake Catemaco, Palenque and Campeche, and headed
for Tulum on the Yucatan peninsula from where they were invited to Costa
Rica.
The couple’s
interest in Mexico came as a result of Sumana's first trip through Mexico
to Guatemala in 1987. Sumana notes, “Mainland Mexico was so different
from the border towns . . . vast, unspoiled spaces (as well as some very
spoiled spaces). There was always a feeling of diversity driving
here . . . mountains, oceans, tropical flowers, deserts, sophistication
as well as absolute simplicity. And the tempo of life and the cost
of living were so different that it presented possibilities of other ways
to be." This particular trip began what Sumana calls “the unraveling
process." A process which began with an evolution from being an advertising
executive in South Africa, to a restaurant manager in New York, to running
the studio of one of Los Angeles's top photographers, and concluded with
the realization that she needed to slow down.
Sumana slowly
divested herself of her responsibilities, getting to a point where she
could call her own hours and limit the number of clients, by setting up
accounting systems.
Dave and Sumana
articulate their decision to make a lifestyle change, “It seemed that it
was possible to have a higher standard of living on less money, living
in Mexico or Central America. Of course, there is a trade off.
From leaving the comfort of ‘the known’ to being in ‘the unknown’.
From living in a ‘first world’ country to a ‘third world’ country.
From an established to a random infrastructure. From the availability
of ‘everything you need’ to living with what you have.” For Dave,
true, simple experience is what interests him. Life was moving all
too quickly and, until this experience, was largely automatic, boring and
not fulfilling. He was doing the work routine, the family routine,
the holiday routine.
Dave explains,
“I had enough and wanted a more meaningful life with a tempo that was
more true rather than contrived . . . like sleep when you're sleepy, eat
when you're hungry, relax when you need rest." He also wanted
the time to see himself clearly, without a lot of ego fodder to make him
feel better.
The couple
explains, “Our friend in Costa Rica had a marvelous property with a magical
view overlooking San Jose. Although Costa Rica has a lot of beauty
and much to offer, it wasn't the place that beckoned us for more than a
short visit. What we did learn from living there was that a lifestyle
existed that was more compatible with who we had become and what we wanted.
In a nutshell: simplicity." The couple had to take the vehicles out
of Costa Rica after 60 days, so they made the return trip to California.
After being there for two months they decided to pack up again and head
for Mexico. Dave and Sumana agreed that, with its beauty, charm,
and friendliness, Mexico was the country that attracted them the most.
The couple recalls, “During this process we serendipitously discovered
The Caretaker Gazette through Arthur Frommer's Travel Guide on the Internet,
naturally doing a search to see if there was anything available in Mexico.
We immediately subscribed to the Gazette.”
Lo and behold,
in their first issue of the Gazette, they found a position was available
at Casa Raab in Oaxaca, as managers of a 40 acre property in the mountains
about 20 minutes from this beautiful colonial city.
The absentee
owner, who lives in Washington State, needed a responsible, intelligent,
thoughtful, multi-talented, semi-bilingual couple to care for the villa
that has been in his family for over 30 years. The perfect match.
The property
has two rental units. One, Casa Grande, has a huge dining/living
room and four large bedrooms that open out onto a large veranda and the
swimming pool.
The other,
La Casita, is a self-contained two-bedroom guesthouse.
In all, the
homes can accommodate up to 15 guests at a time.sDave and Sumana describe
the property, “We have our own separate architect-restored house, called
‘Granny's.’ The architect did a terrific job of staying with
the traditional style . . . adobe walls, tiled roof, carrizo and beamed
ceiling and red tiled floors. There are a few western touches, like
a marble shower and kitchen counters. Oh, well. Also, the house
is oriented toward magnificent views of a series of mountains over which
the moon rises and, dare we say, a UFO spotted. Well, it was definitely
something ‘unidentifiable.’ We watch the changing seasons, sometimes
three times in one day!" Oaxaca has a varied climate; it can be cool
in the morning, hot at midday, and cool, windy, or rainy at night.
Nothing lasts for long, even the rain in the rainy season is for a couple
of hours, and only in the evenings. According to Dave and Sumana,
“ One of the perquisites of living here are the wonderful guests we've
met. People are in Oaxaca because they are enchanted with its colonial
charms, because they know that this is the place for folk art, because
of its interesting and varied cuisine, its ruins, markets, and indigenous
people. And guests come to Casa Raab for the tranquility, the air
of stepping back in time, the hospitality, comfort, and cuisine. We have
had writing groups, photography groups, and just plain ‘shopping groups’.
The staff has been looking after guests for years and their needs are always
taken care of, whether it’s a special dish or calling a taxi for a town
trip.”
Dave and Sumana
describe their life as caretakers at the Casa Raab, “The atmosphere here
is one of rest and relaxation, and we need to gauge where the guests are
coming from in relation to activities. Some guests want to see all
the sites of Oaxaca . . . in which case, Dave and the Casa Raab vehicle
are hired to go to ruins like Monte Alban, or to one of the several surrounding
craft villages. Other guests want to stay here, relax by the pool,
and be pampered. Mostly, the guests want some social interaction
with us, but we also know that they are here for other reasons, and we
stay in the background if that is what is required." The leisurely,
slow-place life at Casa Raab has provided Dave and Sumana with precious
time to pursue their own interests. Sumana describes her interests
as "computers, cooking healthy gourmet food, gardening, decorating, reading,
world music." Dave adds that he enjoys "fast cars and motorcycles,
good food, mechanical things, music and Sumana." Projects related to upkeep
are completed as needed, when guests are absent. For example, a new
roof was needed for La Casita and this had to be done before the rainy
season. The couple tries to hire people from the village. As
Dave says, “It is important to maintain good relations with the locals.
You are living in their country and owe them a certain respect and gratitude."
Also, in times of need, it becomes a reciprocal arrangement. There
was a fire in the hills and the village men went to fight the fire while
the women prepared food in support of them. Casa Raab provided drinking
water and bread for the firefighters.
According to
the couple, “Oddly enough, when guests are here is when we have
time to relax, otherwise we're overseeing projects related to water and
wells, electricity, decorating, construction and gardening. Ah, gardening.
Being subtropical, there's a whole new learning curve related to insects
. . . plant one day and the next day it has been stripped by cutter ants,
for example." Generally, Dave oversees construction and maintenance,
and Sumana the garden and household staff. Both are available for
guests, sometimes acting as drivers and tour guides, or simply sharing
their knowledge of the local brew, mezcal, which is made from an agave
similar to that of tequila.
Dave and Sumana
note, “Another perk of living here is the community in which we find ourselves.
We live in the campo (country) and are surrounded by campesinos (country
folk). Some walk their burros, goats, and cows past our gate.
All have a warm smile and greeting. In addition, there are some Americans
and Europeans on the hill who, without exception, are hospitable and helpful.
A varied group, from artists to economists, restaurateurs, pianists and
retirees. All are joined in a common love for the rich and simple
life possible here. We are lucky to have found this oasis of warmth
in a world that doesn't always recognize its neighbors. We are ever
grateful to have encountered The Caretaker Gazette and this opportunity
to live this life that “fits” who we are and what we have to offer.”
The property
caretaking lifestyle has provided Dave and Sumana with time to enjoy the
unique culture of Oaxaca. On a day-to-day basis, Sumana explains, “Living
here is like taking care of your own home. You see what needs to
be done and you do it." She adds, “It is hard to say what our daily
activities are because each day is different. We generally go into
Oaxaca city to shop and do email two or three times a week. This
usually includes a stop in the Zocalo (main plaza) for lunch and a bit
of people watching." Sometimes there are projects that need Dave's
involvement, such as putting in a new well. The existing water supply
needed to be increased and a well was dug, a pump house built, and pump
installed with an electrical circuit to power it. Dave notes, “Mexicans
are capable, resourceful builders. It may not be up to California
code, but they sure get the job done without the invasive restrictions
placed on everything you do in the States.” According to the couple,
“Mexico is very special. We continually experience the friendliness
and basic kindness of its people, who generally have less and give more.
As we slow down there is a very nice sense of being connected. Here,
in this village, it is like turning back the clock 100 years. The
barnyard animals that are present, the lack of telephones ringing, no great
plans or social schedules. Our door is open. We always have
time for a visit.”
