The boating
lifestyle is not for everyone. But for some, it’s the goal of a lifetime
to sail into the sunset. Nautical dreamers often wind up at one time or
another in Guatemala, whether to explore the beautiful Río Dulce
area or to hide out from storms during hurricane season.
Sharon and
“Big
Al” sailed around the Caribbean Island chain for years, and one fine
day seven years ago entered the Río Dulce. Sharon recalls being
“immediately
smitten by the people, the Guatemalan work ethic and the beauty of the
country.” They decided they had to return, and on a repeat trip through
the Bay Islands of Honduras and the Belize Cays, they safe-havened one
stormy season in the Río Dulce. “The Río is a sweet (fresh)
water river.
The entire
waterway, up the Golfete (El Golfete) and into Lake Isabal (Lago Izabal)
is completely navigable. It gives sailors a break from the sea, time to
work on the boat in smooth, easy waters. It’s also a relief for the women,
who can do laundry in the fresh water and purchase supplies.”
“The Río
is a place to take a nice vacation. It’s wonderful for water sports. The
river is gorgeous. There's beautiful flora and fauna, and you have the
feeling of being on the edge of a jungle.”
It’s also a
safe haven from dangerous Caribbean storms. “The mountains are high along
the coast and through the river, leading to the Golfete and Lake Isabal.
You can snake up river, protected and out of danger.”
There are about
200 boats on the river at high season. At that time people work on their
vessels or travel through Guatemala or to North America and Europe. Sharon
says, “You can leave your boat here, and know it’s protected, which is
not true of docking facilities off many other countries and islands.”
There are
three operating marinas available for dockage. But Sharon and Big Al stay
at a private family-run dock/restaurant/hotel called “Rosita’s”
Formalities...
At the river,
you’ll need to go through customs, get a cruising permit which is good
for 3 months, and can be extended for another 9 months. It costs approximately
Q300 ($46) to pay immigration and customs fees. Sharon says, “We’ve
always found the officials to be helpful and friendly.”
“You can dock
your boat here for less than you would pay in Cancun or Isla Mujeres, Mexico.
Your range of expenses will vary depending on your lifestyle. You can live
on $200 or $2,000 per month. You could also live out “on the hook,” at
anchor, which is very inexpensive.”
The Río
Dulce is not generally regarded as a place to retire. “That’s because property
is pricey. Most people on the river are living on boats. They come and
go.” But, having fallen in love with Guatemala and it’s people, Sharon
and Big Al decided to stay and build a house boat. Due to the heat and
humidity in the Río Dulce area, they felt that a house boat would
give them more wide open breezes and the ability to enjoy the beauty of
nature.
“We don’t cruise
any more. We spend more time on land in Guatemala. With age and the number
of years at sea, your priorities change. Sailing is hard work. And it’s
costly to keep a boat up. It takes a lot of energy.”
Lifestyles
- Estilo de Vida...
To get around
on the lake, since there are no roads, everyone uses launches. At the village
at Fronteras there are shuttles, cars and busses.
Sharon and
Al have a Blazer, which they use to take off to Guatemala City or Antigua,
a good escape during the HOT months.“We don’t recommend the months April,
May and June for being on the river. There’s a change in the trade winds
at that time which causes a stillness in the air.”
So What
is the Boating Crowd REALLY Like?
“The boaters
you meet are a special group, with a variety of backgrounds. The differences
among friendships appeals to me. Friendships are not cosmetic. Cruisers
are independent, they enjoy these differences. This is true of the cruising
lifestyle and of living in Guatemala.
What to
do for Fun?
“We don’t need
entertainment. We enjoy life as it is, where it is.
The colors
of Guatemala fill your eyes with variety of visuals every day.” Sharon
writes, but just for personal enjoyment.
“...Like
Going Back in Time.” “This is a wholesome lifestyle which runs
at a very pleasant pace. It reminds me of when I used to visit my grandmother.
She never wore a watch. “Here, there’s a bombardment of physical visuals
and simplicity, ...simplistic manual labors. You’re connected and closer
to nature.”
Practical
Considerations
“In the last
three years, the progress in communications has been tremendous. There
used to be two phones in Fronteras. You would have to wait two hours. In
a storm, the lines would go dead. But in the past seven years, there have
come on line two offices with satellite phone reception, e-mail, cellular
phones, internet and fax. The roads have improved since President Arzú
took office in '96. The Arzú administration should be commended
for its accomplishments. Without an infrastructure of transportation and
communications, the country cannot grow.”
Medical
“We have yearly
doctor visits and have found highly skilled medical care in Guatemala City,
both diagnostic and treatment, with ready access. In fact, if you can’t
find what you want in the City, it’s not the City that’s failing, it’s
the searcher. You have to know where to look and be creative in your search.
However, in the past 7 years, medicines have doubled in cost, or more.
We’re lucky. Our insurance is provided by our former employers, and it
pays here on a pro-rated basis.”
Couples...
Harmony on the High Seas?
Couples on
Boats? “That really puts your relationship to the wall immediately. You
grow up pretty quick.”
