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French Fried Apple Pie
The Tale of an American "Pig-Out" from a Parisian Point of View
by Adrian Leeds
Adrian Leeds grew up in New Orleans, attended university in New York City, spent a year on a kibbutz in Israel before settling into a career and family life, first in Knoxville then in Los Angeles. In 1994, she brought with her to Paris more than 20 years experience in marketing and public relations, not to mention a daughter.

Her U.S. company, Western Web Works, provides Web marketing consultation to Web developers and businesses doing E-commerce.

She is the author of The Leeds Good Value Guide to Paris Restaurants

http://www.wfi.fr/leeds/

the result of her insatiable desire for great food at bargain prices, and hosts the popular Parler Parlor Conversation Group in Paris 

http://www.parlerparlor.com

where members from 40 different countries meet to practice speaking French and English.

Let's just get the bad news out of the way: American coffee DOES taste like "jus de chaussettes" (sock juice). After living in France six years and as an infant weaned on New Orleans café au lait, even Starbucks couldn't satisfy my craving for a real cup of coffee.

The good news is that great American dining is very much alive and well, creative cooking is where it's at and portions are bigger than ever. Even Starbucks calls their small a "tall" and tall it is, nearly twice the size of an average French café crème.

It was an eating tour on the East Coast. For two weeks, starting in New York, traveling down to Washington, DC, over to Long Island and then ending up again in Manhattan, we chowed down on what is today the most typical of American restaurant fare.

We satisfied our cravings of old faithfuls -- like hot dogs, hamburgers, pancakes and apple pie, but I'd have to now add to that list, such multi-ethnic contributions as chop suey in China Town, pasta in Little Italy, Ethiopian "injera" in Washington, DC (believed to be the city with the world's second largest Ethiopian population) and the newest addition to every menu across the continent – "wraps." We didn't miss much and neither do Americans.

In the mid 90's a young guy in San Francisco had a bright idea to open a store called "It's a Wrap," create a line-up of soft flour tortillas filled with everything from snow crab to squash as a portable on-the-go version of a sandwich.

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Now just a few years later, it's tough to find a menu that DOESN'T list at least one or two wraps and more and more that specialize in America's hottest "don't need utensils" eating habits (according to the international newsletter on food trends, "Trend/Wire"). At this point I wondered if Americans are adverse to using utensils because they never learned how to hold a fork in the left hand, the knife in the right, and pick up food with the fork upside down, like the Europeans do. Nonetheless, the wrap is certainly faster to eat than the proverbial three-course French meal and maybe that's the main reason for its success. The Baja Grill Bordery Eatery in East Northport, Long Island, offers three kinds of "Fajita Wraps" five kinds of "Cool Wraps," three kinds of "UnWrapped" wraps and seven kinds of "Hot Wraps." I went for a "Fried Calamari Wrap" (with mixed greens, pico de gallo, guacamole and cilantro lime dressing) but thought the "Grilled Chicken Caesar Wrap" was a particularly creative use of the early 90's trendy Caesar Salad.

Believe it or not, the best Caesar Salad we found (and my daughter ordered one almost everywhere we went) was at My Most Favorite Dessert, a kosher restaurant in the Times Square district of Manhattan.

It was twice the price of any other, but it was well worth it. Kosher dining isn't often on my list, but for my yarmelke-bearing friends in New York, I'd go anywhere.

This is a large, nicely decorated two-level space, always buzzing and consistently dishing out a quality meal to those who choose not to mix their meat and milk. I can't ever remember seeing a Caesar Salad on a menu in France, but friends say I just missed seeing it the one or two there are. Yes, I do miss them and every now and then, concoct one at home.

Our first night in the Big Apple (happened to be a Sunday night and THE traditional night of the week for Jews to eat Chinese in China Town), we headed straight for New York Noodletown on Bowery I had become fond of from previous trips.It's got a good reputation for cheap and delicious and it was just that.

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However, cheaper and even more delicious, was Chung How Chinese Kitchen in East Setauket, Long Island. Their menu has over 200 items to choose from, nothing more expensive than $10.95 (a Cantonese dish called "Happy Family"). The strange thing about Chung How is that nobody, but nobody eats there at the restaurant. Almost 100% of its business is take out, so the kitchen is twice the size of the restaurant side of the place. We got a chuckle out of the bizarre scene, but the portions were so large that five of us could only eat half of what we ordered, and all for a whopping $50. What a deal.

You can't get American donuts in Paris (at least not that I know of), but you can get them in New York on just about every corner. You know the kinds I mean? Round with a hole or twisted like a rope, glazed, powdered, chocolate covered, sprinkled, you name it sweet and gooey. Curbside stands offer every assortment imaginable with a "sock juice" of your choice. When I was living in Knoxville, Tennessee, the most popular spot in town was the Krispy Kreme where you could watch hot glazed donuts come right off the conveyer belt into a box where a dozen sat flat side by side. It was impossible to eat just one and I knew lots of folks who could down a dozen at a sitting. Today, Krispy Kreme is hot (no pun intended), opening shops coast to coast. Buy stock now.

Unfortunately, I didn't personally have the perfect burger during the entire binge, but in a classic diner in Manhattan, I ogled what I would call the real thing being served up, bigger and fatter and juicier than ever, smothered in cheese and bacon, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, mustard and ketchup. They looked delicious and you could tell, by the sheer numbers of burgers coming off the grill, that they were about as good as they get. What a shame that the French don't have a clue how good a real burger can be, since their idea of an American hamburger is "MacDo."

By sheer fluke, we stumbled into another classic New York diner looking for a phone and a place to rest our weary feet. It turns out that Joe Junior's, at the corner of 12th Street and Avenue of the Americas, is where neighborhood folks line up for pea soup, a specialty only on Mondays and Saturdays. Luckily for us, it was Monday and I must say the pea soup was damned good. When I mentioned Joe Junior's to friends living in the city, they all said "of course," since it's an institution everyone in the know knows about. Gorgeous Gregg, son of Joe Junior and regular counter guy, seems to know the name of everyone who comes in, although he says after 26 years of serving up pea soup to the regulars, that's a piece of cake. We skipped the cake this particular afternoon.

My daughter's idea of American pig-out heaven is ribs. Baby Back Barbecued Ribs at Timothy's in Wilmington, Delaware are sold by the slab. One slab is a small portion. Ha! You should see the large portions. At the "Outback," Long Island's answer to an Aussie Barbie, imported ribs, smoked and grilled, served with Aussie chips (we call them "French fries" and the French call them "frites") and cinnamon apples are more than enough for two adults, I can assure you. More importantly than that, they were seriously "finger-lickin' good." Again, non-utensil dining, quite acceptable.

Throughout our journey we got hooked on root beer floats and argued whether they were better with vanilla or chocolate ice cream. Purists prefer vanilla. I prefer chocolate. The French have never heard of this concoction, mainly because they've never heard of or tasted root beer. Where I come from, Barq's is the best. We all seem to have our favorite brand. Friends we stayed with on Long Island have reported that now that we've left, they're hooked, too, as if it were a kind of contagious disease. I miss them already – the root beer floats and the friends.

In "our nation's capitol," we sopped up delicately spiced morsels of meats, chicken, shrimp and vegetables with Ethiopian "injera," a spongy crepe-like bread (slightly sour) in a restaurant in the Adams-Morgan area of Washington called Meskerem. The injera are layered on a round table and stew-like mixtures are piled on top, then more injera are used to scoop up and eat the stews. We all agreed that we liked the stews, but the spongy consistency of the injera left us cold. Once again, cutlery here is for the faint of heart. Considering the terrible starvation Ethiopia is experiencing now, it occurred to me that "Ethiopian Cuisine" is an oxymoron in itself.

Being in DC, so close to the Maryland shore where the blue crab is plentiful, was an opportunity for me I wasn't going to pass up. The Dancing Crab on Wisconsin Avenue often serves up "all-you-can-eat" boiled blue crabs in the traditional method simply on layers of newspaper along with a mallet for cracking the claws. My friends were long finished with their oyster sandwiches and clam chowder while I was still cracking and peeling. One dozen crabs and two hours later, I finally turned in my mallet in exchange for the check. My mother swears that one time while vacationing on the Gulf Coast, she and a friend ate one hundred crabs in one sitting after catching and boiling them, so it seems I inherited her appetite.

Lina's Sandwiches are pumping out paninis all over Paris and you can get a baguette filled with jambon de Paris in almost every boulangerie but you still can't get a real club sandwich in Paris. That's exactly what I got at the Lyric Diner on 3rd Avenue near Gramercy Park in Manhattan, where a club sandwich consists of sliced breast of turkey, lettuce, tomato, bacon and mayonnaise on three pieces of whole wheat toast, cut into quarters, skewered by a "dressed-up" toothpick, accompanied by French fries and a dill pickle. Of course, I could only finish three of the quarters, half the fries, half the pickle, but, of course, I managed to down all of the root beer float. What's a club sandwich without a root beer float?

In the end, that last morning before our plane headed home to Paris, we had our favorite American food of all -- one big flat pancake with a fried egg on top, four strips of bacon, butter and syrup. What a shame I had to wash it down with "sock juice" and have my American "pig-out" come to a halting stop. It was certainly fun, undeniably memorable and I learned one very important thing: what's more American than apple pie? French fries, of course.

P.S. The French don't "pig-out." They "dine."

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