< Magazine Index > < Index For This Edition >  < Subscribe >

Everyday is an adventure on the canals, actually every bend in the canal is a new adventure since I know not what lies ahead until I complete the bend. Oh, I have charts that show me what to expect, but not until I turn the wheel and push the boat through the bend does the chart information come alive ...and suddendly I may find something that wasn't on the chart...like the bow of a large commercial barge coming toward me making it's way into the bend... and now it's exciting! ...trying to manuever so I may pass in the narrow canal without picking up some paint off the barge or putting the bottom into the mud along the bank. Of course, there are not many days that you have a close encounter with a large barge, but they do happen, and it gets your blood pumping and you really know you're alive!

. .

I had first thought I would buy a barge but after reading a friend of mine's book... "Barging in Europe" I decided that a barge would be too difficult to singlehand. It takes at least two people to effectively handle a barge in the locks and when docking...altho I've seen seasoned barge drivers do it alone but it takes years of experience to do it.

A motor cruiser is far more manueverable and has a much better resale situation which were two important considerations for me. After getting settled in the hostel I sought out the local branch of ANB-AMRO bank (they have branches all over Holland) to set up an account depositing the cashier's check I had brought into the country hidden in my shoe. Along with the account I was given an ATM debit card that is good anywhere in the EC (European Community). I use my Visa card as an emergency backup to my EC card. I learned my lesson some years back when I got mugged twice in Costa Rica...always have a backup card...it's hell to get a card replaced overseas. Before leaving home I also gave my son full power of attorney in case something really bad happened to me while in Europe. While waiting for my cashiers check to clear (about 10 days) I visited Jean, the yachtbroker, to start the process of finding a boat. By the way, almost everyone in Holland speaks English so language is not a problem... another reason to shop for a boat in Holland. Jean showed me a nice full color "boats for sale" publication that the HISWA yachtbrokers Assn. distribute for buyers...hundreds of boats to choose from...each boat is described in detail by the listing broker. I selected boats from the magazine I liked and then drove over to the broker's dock to look at them. Oh, I also purchased a European cell phone so I could call them as I travelled around...it's now used onboard for calls back home to family as I cruise. One day Jean called to tell me of a boat that was going to be put up for sale...the owner had a fleet of charter boats and was replacing one of his boats with a newer model. He gave me his address and said I could deal with him direct since the boat was not offically listed yet. As a charter boat, it was fully equipped for cruising...dishes, corkscrew, bedding, charts, etc. The Volvo diesel had just been rebuilt before the previous season and had less than 500 hrs on it. It had all the features and the layout I had been looking for and had been very well maintained and stored inside during the winters...so within 2 days, with a 10% down payment, we had a deal in writing (English & Dutch) pending the survey. Jean, the yachtbroker, put together the sales contract, assisted me in finding a surveyor, insurance co., and Notary to escrow the deal. Check writing is rarely done in Europe anymore, so it was simply a matter of electronically tranferring the money from my new bank account to the notary's office. We (girlfriend & I) moved aboard after making the down payment and awaited the survey results. The owner did not charge me moorage fees until the deal was finalized. After the owner corrected the minor items the survey turned up, we met in the Notary's office to sign the ownership transfer papers and I made the final payment. I was given a certificate showing that I am now the documented owner in the national registry of vessels in Holland. The only uneasy thing is that my insurance policy is written in Dutch...I just hope I don't need to use it someday. The survey costs about $300, one year's insurance about $500 and the Notary's services about $400 including closing costs. The whole process was very professionally handled and the previous owner made every effort to see we were sent on our way with a boat in near perfect conditon.
 

My boat is 11.5m (38') 12 ton steel ship with teak & mahogany interior, a 106hp Volvo deisel, and cruises at about 7 knots. she sleeps 6 in 2 cabins, fore & aft. Has a bow thruster (invaluable in the locks and for docking) two steering stations, one in the salon and the other on the bridge deck above the aft cabin, one head with hot shower, a complete galley, and a large salon with dining area. I set about preparing the boat for a long summer's cruise...after a few trials (accompained by an old salt sea captain I hired) with the boat out on the Meer (lake) I was ready to go the end of May. Europe has over 10,000 miles of canals/rivers to explore so there's a lot of cruising area to choose from. My teenage daughter was going to join us the middle of June near Amsterdam and she wanted to see Paris so my cruising direction was south through Belgium. There are excellent charts available for the inland waterways, as well as, the required official cruising guidebooks that must be onboard by law. However, they are in Dutch, but they have a translation card for the symbols in English...but you have to ask for it.

The first few days with the boat were kinda hairy due to getting used to dealing with the strong gusty winds that come off the North Sea and across the flatlands of Holland. At times, the winds are strong enough, if taken broadside, to push you sideways into another boat or the canal bank and docking during these conditions can be a real challenge to your boat handling skills. I learned to stay at the dock or quickly found a place to tie up when the winds starting blowing. I was relieved to eventually find shelter from the winds down in Belgium and France. There are not many locks in Holland or Belgium as compared to France. In France, I've been through as many as 28 locks in one day. In Holland, it's low bridges...and waiting for a bridge to open wih a bunch of other boats in windy conditions is not a lot of fun...this is one of those times when you're thankful to have a bowthruster. Holland has lots of nice mooring facilities for pleasure boaters, quite unlike Belgium, which caters to the commercial bargers, and has all but forgotten pleasure boaters, except for Ghent and Brugge. The cost to moor in Holland averages about $US11-16/day depending on facilites and location.. sometimes there is coin-op electricity & showers. Othertimes, by tying to a piling/railing/tree or staking into the bank, it's free. There is no license or permits required to cruise in Holland...but studying & understanding the boating regulations, charts, and navagational systems, is a must before casting off. Upon entering Belgium the first big locking system you encounter will have an office where you must purchase a permit to cruise in the country. The permit is affixed to your window and is checked as you go through subsequent locks. It costs about $US25 and is good for 90 days and is renewable. Moorage in Belgium, when you can find any, will cost about the same as in Holland. Again, Soon after entering France there will be an office at the locks where you will be required to purchase a permit to use the French waterways. There are three options; by the year, 30 days or two weeks. Cost is calculated on the basis of cubic volume of your boat. I found most people went for the 30 day permit since the days are only applied when your boat is actually moving...days tied to the dock do not count. This permit cost me about $US220. The funny thing is tho...that you are given a card to tape on your window that has 30 blank squares on it in which you are to note the days you have moved...after awhile I was forgetting to sign it as I moved along...but no one ever checked it anyway...but at many locks you must go to the office and give them the name of your boat and your permit number. We eventually approached Paris from the west and made our way up the River Seine past the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral, under countless bridges, amidt heavy barge traffic to the marina at the Bastille. The trip from Amsterdam to Paris had taken us just under 7 weeks of leisure travel. The Bastille marina has a convenient location in the heart of Paris and costs about $US28/day. 
 

After a two week stay in Paris, my daughter & girlfriend left for the States. I continued on south for more than another month finally arriving the end of Sept. at a marina in the village of St. Jean de Losne, just south of Dijon. Here is where I had decided to leave the boat for the winter. This year I will be returning to the boat the end of May to prepare her for a trip back to Holland. My teenage daughter will again join me in mid June and we will get underway shortly thereafter. We expect to arrive near Amsterdam about mid August.

Also, I am planning on taking some cost/duty-sharing guests/crew aboard this year...costs will be about $US20/day per person on a day to day basis...get on & off whenever you like.... So anyone interested in sampling this canal roaming lifestyle may contact me at:
RKwander@hotmail.com  ....for more details.
Capt. of USA ship "Wanderer"