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reason? I travelled Queensland by bus. Took Greyhound on the way up
the coast, McCafferty's on the way down. Both bus companies have these
one, three, six, and twelve month tickets which have unlimited stops between
two points, within a certain amount of time. You pick a departure and arrival
spot. My first ticket , for example, began in Sydney and ended in Cairns.
It cost $200 (Australian dollars, remember). Once you have the ticket,
you call the bus booking center and tell the dispatcher which days you
wish to depart from which place, and where you would like to stop. It’s
a very good idea- and allows you the freedom to stay in one lace for a
couple of days or a couple of months. Very flexible to you and your needs.
If you are traveling with a surfboard, golf clubs, or other larger size
luggage, you will be charged ten or fifteen dollars for every pick up,
unless you pay one set fee when you first purchase the ticket, usually
about forty dollars. I managed to bat the eyelashes enough to avoid having
to pay several times, or if that doesn’t work, or the eyelashes are on
a heavily bearded face, you can usually try the “I paid but lost my
ticket” trick.
The buses run
constantly, yet space may be limited, so it's recommended to book ahead
of time, even if it's a day or two ahead. For example, when attempting
to travel to Byron Bay in January (peak season), there was a two week waiting
period. And the buses, since they run 24 hours, will often pick you up
at very odd hours. I've taken several buses at times like 5:06 a.m. You
may be on that bus for ten or twelve hours. And while it's more comfortable
than an American Greyhound, it's nevertheless a bus. I've spent many days
and nights- sandwiched next to someone for more than nine hours, with my
legs crunched up in front of me for lack of floor space, just waiting to
get to a bus stop. When you get to that spot, whether you have a ride coming
to meet you or not, you'll still wait for a while. Buses are often not
on schedule. I learned this from a fellow bus traveller, the first time
waiting, who, after an hour of waiting, said, "Oh, you're travelling
Greyhound? They'll be here sometime in the next hour."
When you get
to your next destination, you may not be in walking distance of everything.
When I arrived in Coolangatta one morning, which is on the border of New
South Wales and Queensland, at the bottom of the Gold Coast, after waiting
two hours for my hostel pick-up, the driver told me I should visit the
grocery store before getting to the hostel, as there is none there, and
only one trip per day to the grocery store before getting to the
hostel. Each trip, of course, takes several hours, including waiting
for the ride to and from. When I arrived at the hostel, a YHA which was
highly recommended by a surfing travel guide, it was across a busy highway
and 15 more minutes to the beach. A beach with no waves. One hour’s walk
down the beach later, I found Kirra, the famous break that the hostel was
supposedly close to. Two and a half hours later, after asking locals and
looking around, and a lot of walking, I found the perfect place to stay,
within walking distance of three good breaks-Kirra, Greenmount, Durranbah,
and a grocery store. By this time, it was dark. I booked a room for the
next day, and walked the hour and a half walk back to the "centrally
located" YHA. If I had had a car, I would've realized upon arrival
that the YHA was far from where I wanted to be, and found more appropriate
accomodation. Or it may not have been an issue, since the vehicle solves
the dilemma.
If you are
at all interested in staying at or near the beach, do not stay at a
YHA. There are always better options. While they are clean and efficient,
there
is only one YHA in ALL of Australia that is beachside. That's the Colloroy
Beachhouse in Sydney's Northern Beaches, which, while next to the beach,
is a 25 to 35 minute walk to a decent break in either direction.
Also,
YHA's are incredibly sterile, so much so that they're not very homelike.
Internationally, they're nice for a night of cleanly recuperation at best.
Perhaps it's personal preference, but a dirty little hut just seems preferable
to a pristine place without character. YHA is also the Big Brother of
backpacking. Each room key has a code which alerts the main desk to
every time you enter the room and bathroom. This “safety precaution”, any
good conspiracy theorist will tell you, is an imposition on privacy best
avoided. Internationally linked, years from now, there will be a record
of your daily habits from the YHA in Egypt to the one in New Zealand.
With a car,
you can explore more than just the sights you want to see. You control
when you go and stay. When you want groceries, you get get them. And if
you feel like a twelve-pack or a watermelon, you don't have to worry about
walking it home. All of this time and effort I've put into days without
a vehicle should be convincing enough .BUY A CAR. It's really easy
to do. All the capital cities have car swaps, and every hostel you'll stay
at will have message boards with car sales posted, as well as the obvious
classified ads and various trading posts.
GETTING
A JOB (TO DOLE OR NOT TO DOLE)
Getting a job
in Australia can be hard or easy, depending on what you know to do, where
you are, and how you go about it. If you have a working visa already, or
a marriage/de facto relationship, skip this section entirely. You're as
hirable as at home.
The United
States is very tight with the working visas allotted to citizens of
other countries, including Australia. Reciprically, they're tight with
working visas allowed to U.S. citizens. Apparently, the U.S. regulations
and restrictions will be changing in the next year or so, but that is not
the case yet. While the Australian immigration raises open arms to all
the British Commonwealth countries, it's a bit harder for American
citizens to achieve. However, if you are a direct descendent of someone
from a Commonwealth country, say a grandmother or father, you're eligible.
This can get a little tricky. Call the U.S. Consulate to find out if you're
eligible. So, how does it work? Because of your relative, you can
then get a passport from a commonwealth country, let's say, for example,
you grandfather was born in Ireland. You are then eligible to obtain an
Irish passport. You are not required to enter Ireland (although it would
be nice), just to get the Irish passport. and you are then eligible
to obtain a one year working visa to Australia (as well as to work throughout
Europe).
If all else
fails, and you can't get a working visa- then- work is still very possible
without it. It's simply a matter of where the work is and how. It was once
easy for the budget traveller to find work fruit-picking throughout Australia-
no visa required. The lists of fruit-picking seasons and places are found
everywhere from the popular TNT Magazine for backpackers to daily papers.
Recently, however, a law has been passed which fines those who employ illegal
aliens (that's us, the Americans), sometimes up to 20,000. Two consequences
have developed from this: 1. It's much harder to find work fruit-picking;
and 2. I've heard many horror stories from fellow travellers where they
have worked dawn to dusk for a couple of weeks, until paycheck time, when
they were threatened with jail and chased off the property, never to be
paid. If you are involved in such a situation, you are entitled to get
the police to retrieve your pay, and then the rotten employer will be fined,
and you will be deported for a few years. The glamorous ideal of working
as a fruit-picker is in actuality a reality not unlike the back-breaking
slave labor of cotton-picking in the eighteen hundreds. It's sticky hot-
with no relief (AKA any nearby bodies of water, Air Conditioning, etc)
and the pay is ridiculously low. If you are looking for a working-class
labor experience, try the GAP sweatshops in Saigon-they might be more of
an adventure.
If, however,
you are looking for regular laboring jobs, from skilled to unskilled work,
the best way to find decent ones is in your local pub. Rather than searching
the want ads or the internet, where you'll usually be checked for the proper
visa, talk to people. The wages are comparable to those at home, depending
on whether the labor is skilled or not. If you have a trade, explore it.
There is a high demand for most, just make sure you’re looking for the
right job description. For example, auto-body mechanics are called “panel-beaters.”
It's
really easy to get cafe work as well. This works best with word of mouth
too, but most cafes are cash-paid jobs anyway, so you can just walk in
and ask for a job. Before you go looking, be aware that tipping is
almost nonexistent in Australia. Waiters/Waitresses/Bartenders are paid
a regular wage, ranging anywhere from about 12 to 17 per hour. Occasional
tips are looked on as an added bonus, but in no way expected.
Stay towards
the coast. The closer to the water you are and the greater the populous,
the better your chance of employment. Most guidebooks will tell you to
stay to the cities as well. Not all cities are hiring though. This January,
which is the middle of summer and one of the best times to find jobs, there
were almost no jobs in Brisbane. I looked and looked. and met others who
were doing the same. By late February, I still met people who had passed
through Brisbane, finding no work. But who knows? This may be different
next year. Regardless of the type of work you're looking for, if you're
looking for work, you can always find it in Sydney. Especially with the
Olympics coming on- there are jobs jobs jobs. Anything you want to do,
and you're hired. Or, watch for large festivals or events. Obviously the
Olympics. But also, there are always work-available situations such as
the Formula One Races in Melbourne in February. Or the Blues and Roots
festival in Byron Bay in April.
These are
all jobs that are accessible once you are here, without a working visa.
If you are planning on going to Australia, but are still outside the country,
find the job first. If you already have the job, then you already have
the legal work permit.
TECHNOLOGY
The general
Australian public is more technologically advanced than that of our own.
Internet "phone booths" are found in the smallest towns, and internet
cafes as well. Most larger cities, like Brisbane and Sydney, have such
a competitive market with internet cafes, that the general price range
is $3 per hour, or $4 for unlimited. Almost everyone has a cellular phone,
and most mobile phone networks have service Australia-wide, for really
cheap rates. As soon as you get to Australia, buy a mobile phone.
Even if you are only staying for a few weeks. It is worth the thirty American
dollars it will cost you. Yes, that's the price. There is an ongoing price
war with cheap offers for mobile phones. Pre-paid phones are on sale in
every grocery store and convenience store, generally for about 100 dollars
(Australian)
each including a thirty dollar phone card. So you're getting a phone for
sixty dollars, or about thirty dollars worth, in home currency. Almost
every convenience store has recharge cards, from 10 dollars to 100. And
it's really worth it. More than the convenience, is the fact that despite
all these technological advances, the payphones here will eat your change.
Put a dollar's worth of coins into a phone, and somehoe you'll be cut off
mid-sentence, unless you continually feed it coins. Local calls are supposedly
either 30 or 40 cents, but dial the wrong number and you'll see the change
return button(if it has one) doesn't work. It's really worth your while
to get a mobile phone. And most moblie phone phones from home will not
work here. You can, however, use any mobile phone bought here in Europe.
Having a phone will help you when looking for jobs, homes, or even just
keeping in touch with friends.
PREJUDICE
I've experienced
many sides of racism here. It really depends on who you talk to. Obviously,
the closer you are to big cities, the less close-mindedness you will encounter.
This
is not necessarily the case in Australia. One thing is certain, though,
no matter how multicultural, with so many races everywhere, there are very
few African faces seen daily in the cities. While persons in the city are
generally more idealistic about the racism issues, many have never met,
worked with, or gone to school with any aborigines. Aborigines must not
be thought of as African Americans are, though. They are more like Native
Americans, abused and used in their own country of origin, as our own indigenous
peoples were, And how many Native Americans do you see walking around the
streets of Seattle or Atlanta? So, if you are searching for Aborigines,
you must drive to their equivalent of the Navajo nation. Once you begin
to see things in these terms, it makes a bit more sense.
I stayed with
a mixed couple in Noosa for a while, the wife Aboriginal, with two beautiful
daughters, and they treated me like family. They claimed to encounter no
different treatment than before the relationship. But I met three train
drivers in Sydney on their coffee break (ironically, two of them very
dark-skinned men from Syria), and as the conversation turned to racism
and jobs, all three explained to me why for one reason or another he would
not hire an Aboriginal man for the job, were he up against a white man.
So, yes, sadly, prejudice does exist here in some forms. In fact, there
have been protests Australia-wide lately by Aboriginal activists, as one
prominent politician denied the Stolen Generation's existence. The Stolen
Generation is as recent as Civil Rights. It's the name for when the Australian
government took Aboriginal children from their homes and families en masse
in order to make them "civilized", sending them to white schools,
living with complete strangers This happened as recently as thirty years
ago, and denying it is similar to denying the Holocaust. So, eventually,
after many demonstrations and petitions, the politician rebuked his answer.
However, there is still a very good possibility that during the Olympics,
radical activists will stage more protests, to make the world aware of
the plight at home.
More often
than not, though, Australians poke fun of everyone, themselves included.
The differences between cultures and skin colors is not to be taken too
seriously. A popular comedy currently showing in movie theatres is called
“the
Wog Boy”. “Wog” is the Australian term for Italian and Greek people,
of which the eastern and southern parts of the country have a large population.
Popular sentiment leans towards accepting all peoples. Even the names
for various peoples of the world reflect this. For example, Canadians are
kanucks, and the British Pommies. P.O.M.Y. is actually an anacronym for
Prisoner of Mother England. One group of Australian friends confided to
me that while we Americans think that we’re being called “Yanks”, they
actually call us “God Damns,” since that’s all we ever seem to say.
I thought this was really unusual, until I started watching, and realizing,
that in every American movie I watch, it’s “god-damn” this and “god-damn”
that. You know, they’re god-damn right. |