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GETTING AROUND (BUSH-“WHEELING”): There are a series of postcards sold here which depict the Australian border placed over Europe, Asia, or North America. Regardless of size may seem on a globe, this visual metaphor imposes the reality that the continental United States is about the same size as The Island Continent. If you are planning to visit for three weeks and see Perth, Melbourne, Sydney, and everything in between, be aware that this is no different an undertaking than planning to see San Francisco, Miami, Boston, and everything in between. The island continent is an island, but more importantly, remember it is a continent. Australia is 2,966,150 square miles in size. The U.S. is only about 600,000 more, and that additional size mostly consists of Alaska and Texas. There is much land to cover, and it takes time to see it. Driving across country means the same thing here. Except, you're not taking the short route across, rather, mostly driving across the coast .Whatever any guidebook or tour guide tells you about transportation methods, don't listen. Buy a car. Or a campervan. I've flown, travelled by bus, and taken trains all over Australia. And each transportation taken has been an experience of superior quality. The two main bus services, Greyhound and McCafferty's, are luxurious by comparison to the American equivalent. While going Greyhound in the United States is much like an extended visit to a homeless shelter, the Aussie company is far more comfortable and clean. It's very cheap, and chances are the person sitting next to you is not only coherent, but has probably showered in the last day or so. And you will not be hassled at bus stations, regardless of the hour (the almost nonexistent homeless population also contributes to this). Travelling by train, while slower, is certainly comfortable as well. So why buy a car? Whatever your
intentions may be, a car will allow you the mobility to go where you please.
For example, one day I had a 10:30 appointment at the eye doctor on Oxford St., in the middle of the city, and had to be at work at six p.m. I was living in Manly Beach at the time, which is very close to the city on a map, and easily accessible by car. At nine a.m., I walked the seven blocks to the Manly Ferry (which costs four dollars), arriving at 9:22. Waited the eight minutes until the ferry arrived. The ferry takes a half hour. It's a beautiful scenic trip which travels across the Sydney Harbor, with views of everything from the Pacific Ocean to the famous Sydney Opera House, arriving in Circular Quay at 10 a.m. From there I took the subway (additional $2.20), to the Museum Station, arriving at about 10:20. The eye doctor is five blocks from the station, so I got there a couple of minutes late. The appointment ended at noon. I walked out of the eye-doctors and stopped in a nearby café for lunch (the Roo Bar, which has excellent affordable food and a $3/hr internet-eat-while-you-surf section as well). Left at 1:15. Walked back to the train station, took a train back to Circular Quay, back across the ferry, arriving back at home at 4pm. Just enough time to get ready for work and catch the 4:40 bus which would arrive near my workplace at 5:40, hopefully, depending on how many times the bus stops and rush-hour traffic. Spending= a total of 15 for the day in transportation, then finishing work at 1:03 a.m., after the trains have stopped and the busses are only hourly. If I took a bus home, I would get home about 3 or 3:30 a.m. So, I took a taxi, which I costs about 15 to 18 dollars, thus spending about 30 dollars in one day on transportation alone, and accomplishing only one thing, not even anything fun. One entire day. With a car, it would've taken fifteen to twenty minutes to and from the eye doctor's. Also, parking in Sydney is more sane and plausible than most world cities. BUY A CAR. Want another reason? I travelled Queensland by bus. Took Greyhound on the way up the coast, McCafferty's on the way down. Both bus companies have these one, three, six, and twelve month tickets which have unlimited stops between two points, within a certain amount of time. You pick a departure and arrival spot. My first ticket , for example, began in Sydney and ended in Cairns. It cost $200 (Australian dollars, remember). Once you have the ticket, you call the bus booking center and tell the dispatcher which days you wish to depart from which place, and where you would like to stop. It’s a very good idea- and allows you the freedom to stay in one lace for a couple of days or a couple of months. Very flexible to you and your needs. If you are traveling with a surfboard, golf clubs, or other larger size luggage, you will be charged ten or fifteen dollars for every pick up, unless you pay one set fee when you first purchase the ticket, usually about forty dollars. I managed to bat the eyelashes enough to avoid having to pay several times, or if that doesn’t work, or the eyelashes are on a heavily bearded face, you can usually try the “I paid but lost my ticket” trick. The buses run constantly, yet space may be limited, so it's recommended to book ahead of time, even if it's a day or two ahead. For example, when attempting to travel to Byron Bay in January (peak season), there was a two week waiting period. And the buses, since they run 24 hours, will often pick you up at very odd hours. I've taken several buses at times like 5:06 a.m. You may be on that bus for ten or twelve hours. And while it's more comfortable than an American Greyhound, it's nevertheless a bus. I've spent many days and nights- sandwiched next to someone for more than nine hours, with my legs crunched up in front of me for lack of floor space, just waiting to get to a bus stop. When you get to that spot, whether you have a ride coming to meet you or not, you'll still wait for a while. Buses are often not on schedule. I learned this from a fellow bus traveller, the first time waiting, who, after an hour of waiting, said, "Oh, you're travelling Greyhound? They'll be here sometime in the next hour." When you get
to your next destination, you may not be in walking distance of everything.
When I arrived in Coolangatta one morning, which is on the border of New
South Wales and Queensland, at the bottom of the Gold Coast, after waiting
two hours for my hostel pick-up, the driver told me I should visit the
grocery store before getting to the hostel, as there is none there, and
only one trip per day to the grocery store before getting to the
hostel. Each trip, of course, takes several hours, including waiting
for the ride to and from. When I arrived at the hostel, a YHA which was
highly recommended by a surfing travel guide, it was across a busy highway
and 15 more minutes to the beach. A beach with no waves. One hour’s walk
down the beach later, I found Kirra, the famous break that the hostel was
supposedly close to. Two and a half hours later, after asking locals and
looking around, and a lot of walking, I found the perfect place to stay,
within walking distance of three good breaks-Kirra, Greenmount, Durranbah,
and a grocery store. By this time, it was dark. I booked a room for the
next day, and walked the hour and a half walk back to the "centrally located"
YHA. If I had had a car, I would've realized upon arrival that the YHA
was far from where I wanted to be, and found more appropriate accomodation.
Or it may not have been an issue, since the vehicle solves the dilemma.
With a car,
you can explore more than just the sights you want to see. You control
when you go and stay. When you want groceries, you get get them. And if
you feel like a twelve-pack or a watermelon, you don't have to worry about
walking it home. All of this time and effort I've put into days without
a vehicle should be convincing enough .BUY A CAR.
GETTING A JOB (TO DOLE OR NOT TO DOLE) Getting a job in Australia can be hard or easy, depending on what you know to do, where you are, and how you go about it. If you have a working visa already, or a marriage/de facto relationship, skip this section entirely. You're as hirable as at home. The United States is very tight with the working visas allotted to citizens of other countries, including Australia. Reciprically, they're tight with working visas allowed to U.S. citizens. Apparently, the U.S. regulations and restrictions will be changing in the next year or so, but that is not the case yet. While the Australian immigration raises open arms to all the British Commonwealth countries, it's a bit harder for American citizens to achieve. However, if you are a direct descendent of someone from a Commonwealth country, say a grandmother or father, you're eligible. This can get a little tricky. Call the U.S. Consulate to find out if you're eligible. So, how does it work? Because of your relative, you can then get a passport from a commonwealth country, let's say, for example, you grandfather was born in Ireland. You are then eligible to obtain an Irish passport. You are not required to enter Ireland (although it would be nice), just to get the Irish passport. and you are then eligible to obtain a one year working visa to Australia (as well as to work throughout Europe). If all else fails, and you can't get a working visa- then- work is still very possible without it. It's simply a matter of where the work is and how. It was once easy for the budget traveller to find work fruit-picking throughout Australia- no visa required. The lists of fruit-picking seasons and places are found everywhere from the popular TNT Magazine for backpackers to daily papers. Recently, however, a law has been passed which fines those who employ illegal aliens (that's us, the Americans), sometimes up to 20,000. Two consequences have developed from this: 1. It's much harder to find work fruit-picking; and 2. I've heard many horror stories from fellow travellers where they have worked dawn to dusk for a couple of weeks, until paycheck time, when they were threatened with jail and chased off the property, never to be paid. If you are involved in such a situation, you are entitled to get the police to retrieve your pay, and then the rotten employer will be fined, and you will be deported for a few years. The glamorous ideal of working as a fruit-picker is in actuality a reality not unlike the back-breaking slave labor of cotton-picking in the eighteen hundreds. It's sticky hot- with no relief (AKA any nearby bodies of water, Air Conditioning, etc) and the pay is ridiculously low. If you are looking for a working-class labor experience, try the GAP sweatshops in Saigon- they might be more of an adventure. If, however,
you are looking for regular laboring jobs, from skilled to unskilled work,
the best way to find decent ones is in your local pub. Rather than searching
the want ads or the internet, where you'll usually be checked for the proper
visa, talk to people. The wages are comparable to those at home, depending
on whether the labor is skilled or not. If you have a trade, explore it.
There is a high demand for most, just make sure you’re looking for the
right job description. For example, auto-body mechanics are called “panel-beaters.”
Stay
towards the coast. The closer to the water you are and the greater the
populous, the better your chance of employment. Most guidebooks will tell
you to stay to the cities as well. Not all cities are hiring though. This
January, which is the middle of summer and one of the best times to find
jobs, there were almost no jobs in Brisbane. I looked and looked. and met
others who were doing the same. By late February, I still met people who
had passed through Brisbane, finding no work. But who knows? This may be
different next year.
TECHNOLOGY The general
Australian public is more technologically advanced than that of our own.
Internet "phone booths" are found in the smallest towns, and internet cafes
as well. Most larger cities, like Brisbane and Sydney, have such a competitive
market with internet cafes, that the general price range is $3 per hour,
or $4 for unlimited. Almost everyone has a cellular phone, and most mobile
phone networks have service Australia-wide, for really cheap rates.
PREJUDICE I've experienced many sides of racism here. It really depends on who you talk to. Obviously, the closer you are to big cities, the less close-mindedness you will encounter. This is not necessarily the case in Australia. One thing is certain, though, no matter how multicultural, with so many races everywhere, there are very few African faces seen daily in the cities. While persons in the city are generally more idealistic about the racism issues, many have never met, worked with, or gone to school with any aborigines. Aborigines must not be thought of as African Americans are, though. They are more like Native Americans, abused and used in their own country of origin, as our own indigenous peoples were, And how many Native Americans do you see walking around the streets of Seattle or Atlanta? So, if you are searching for Aborigines, you must drive to their equivalent of the Navajo nation. Once you begin to see things in these terms, it makes a bit more sense. I stayed with a mixed couple in Noosa for a while, the wife Aboriginal, with two beautiful daughters, and they treated me like family. They claimed to encounter no different treatment than before the relationship. But I met three train drivers in Sydney on their coffee break (ironically, two of them very dark-skinned men from Syria), and as the conversation turned to racism and jobs, all three explained to me why for one reason or another he would not hire an Aboriginal man for the job, were he up against a white man. So, yes, sadly, prejudice does exist here in some forms. In fact, there have been protests Australia-wide lately by Aboriginal activists, as one prominent politician denied the Stolen Generation's existence. The Stolen Generation is as recent as Civil Rights. It's the name for when the Australian government took Aboriginal children from their homes and families en masse in order to make them "civilized", sending them to white schools, living with complete strangers This happened as recently as thirty years ago, and denying it is similar to denying the Holocaust. So, eventually, after many demonstrations and petitions, the politician rebuked his answer. However, there is still a very good possibility that during the Olympics, radical activists will stage more protests, to make the world aware of the plight at home. More often than not, though, Australians poke fun of everyone, themselves included. The differences between cultures and skin colors is not to be taken too seriously. A popular comedy currently showing in movie theatres is called “the Wog Boy”. “Wog” is the Australian term for Italian and Greek people, of which the eastern and southern parts of the country have a large population. Popular sentiment leans towards accepting all peoples. Even the names for various peoples of the world reflect this. For example, Canadians are kanucks, and the British Pommies. P.O.M.Y. is actually an anacronym for Prisoner of Mother England. One group of Australian friends confided to me that while we Americans think that we’re being called “Yanks”, they actually call us “God Damns,” since that’s all we ever seem to say. I thought this was really unusual, until I started watching, and realizing, that in every American movie I watch, it’s “god-damn” this and “god-damn” that. You know, they’re god-damn right. |