The jeito often provides a way of cutting through the bureaucracy. When the mayor of Curitiba decided to turn the main thoroughfare of the city into a pedestrian mall, he knew if the process dragged out over several weeks, objections would arise. So he called on all civil servants to work over a single weekend, erecting barricades and planters. By Monday morning the pedestrian mall was finished, and traffic was diverted to other streets.

BUSINESS IN BRAZIL

Old style hierarchies still exist, and breaking the chain of hierarchy is disrespectful. Brazilians operate through personal connections, and they want to know the individuals they're dealing with. A "cut to the chase" attitude won't work here; things are discussed thoroughly. Expect negotiations to cover many details, which will take time.

It's wise to make appointments two weeks or more in advance. Don't make impromptu calls and don't try to do business around Carnival time.

Foreigners need to hire a Brazilian contact or despechante. If you need an accountant or attorney, find one locally. People may be suspicious of outside experts.

Brazilians don't take siestas (and chuckle at their neighbors who do), but they may take two hour lunches. At a business lunch, wait until coffee is served before bringing up business matters.

Titles such as Senior and Senhora are used to address business acquaintances. Often, though, people ask you to call them by their first names. Business attire, and dress in general, varies. When in doubt, ask or dress conservatively.

CITIES OF BRAZIL

Sao Paulo

This is a mega-city of almost 20 million, and is very cosmopolitan. People here look at those from other parts of Brazil, even Rio, as country cousins. Ethnic restaurants, musical and theatrical productions, fine shopping, bargain hunting -- it's all here. The city has 70 museums, and over 200 cinemas. It also has some fine parks, and even the less affluent neighborhoods have street trees. Books in English are sold at Agencia Siciliano, Av. Brig. Faria Lina, 1191: Book Centre rua Gabus Mendes 29, near Praca da Republica; Litec Livros Tecnicos, Rua Timbiras 257 and Libraria Cultura at Avenida Paulista 2073.

It is an enormous, sprawling place with its tangle of streets that confuse even the local people. The question expats need to ask, when considering a job here is, how long is the commute? There are subways, buses and even helicopter taxis, but most people drive cars. The pollution is noticeable. Traffic is bumper to bumper, but not start and stop; it moves. 

Cars all travel at about the same speed, gracefully changing lanes and missing each other by inches in a way that seems choreographed. Most drivers listen to music, and even if it's not the same music, their cars all seem to move to the same relaxed rhythm. 

Living in Sao Paulo

Many expats live in the zona sul, or southern part of the city. The Jardims is a popular and convenient area, with good shopping, galleries and restaurants. Higienopolis and Morumbi offer both luxury apartments and single-family houses. Alphaville and Tambore, about 20 km west of the city, have American-style communities, but the commute is long and stressful.

Rooms are typically smaller than in the U.S., and space is used efficiently New houses may not come equipped with light fixtures or appliances. Kitchens are modest (they're the maid's domain) while bathrooms often have nice tiles and even marble. Children's bedrooms and guest rooms may have their own private baths. Stores sell huge large pieces of furniture that look like built-ins, taking the places of chests and dressers. Central air conditioning is rarely available, and usually isn't necessary.

Expect to pay one month's rent in advance, plus another month's rent as a security deposit. Note: Renters also pay property taxes, utilities, and, in condominiums or apartments, share a common expense fee that covers the maintenance of the lobby, elevators and garbage disposal. Find out how much such fees are likely to be.

Leases run from two to three years and normally provide for an annual rent increases. Leases are signed by a guarantor in addition to the property owner and tenant. One's employer can act as guarantor.

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