Less than an hour away from a capital city of more than one million people lies an ancient Hellenistic temple, with magnificent colonnades that jut toward the sky and intricate carvings that carry messages from the past, located on a triangular cape and overlooking a deep, ominous gorge.  Not too far from there, one can also find a 4th century monastery, carved miraculously out of the side of a mountain, located inside a compound surrounded by high walls, all overlooking lush foliage.  And the best part about all of this is that you can see these sights without the massive crowds, the expense of having to convert over to the euro, and experience something that is truly off the beaten path.  At first glance, the temple and monastery remind one of the Parthenon in Athens, Greece, and the famous “casas colgadas,” or hanging houses, found in Cuenca, Spain.  However, this is not Greece or Spain, but Armenia.  Yes, less than an hour's drive from the capital city of Yerevan, you can experience the wonders of Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery, in what is a perfect day-trip from the capital and an excellent way to experience Armenian culture.   Built in the 1st century A.D., Garni Temple was funded by a visit by the Armenian King Tiridates to the infamous Roman Emperor Nero.  Destroyed in 1679 by an earthquake, the temple was later rebuilt during Soviet times and is an impressive piece of Armenian architecture heavily influenced by the Greeks, all dedicated to a Pagan God.  Legend has it that the temple was built dedicated to the Pagan God of the Sun, Mithra, and when Armenia became the first country to proclaim Christianity as its national religion, the temple was then used a summer residence for kings.

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Unlike Greek or Roman buildings, Garni Temple is made of hard basalt rather than soft marble, without the use of mortar and instead using iron clamps sealed with lead. In the temple, one can see carvings in Greek, as well as ancient graffiti in Arabic.  Though I was unable to find out what the Arabic graffiti meant, the carvings in Greek demonstrate a skillful knowledge of human anatomy, and a message above the carvings of Greek mythological figures says something to the effect of “work and gain nothing.”

In addition to the temple, several other structures were built nearby, such as a bathhouse, church, and palace, but the temple remains by far the most interesting and impressive building in the vicinity.  Entrance to the temple is free, and you can wander the temple grounds and venture inside the temple to take a look at the fantastic inscriptions and carvings. 

A further seven kilometers down the road from Garni Temple, the impressive Geghard Monastery is another popular sight not only for tourists in Armenia but also for locals. Partially carved out of the side of a mountain, this 4th century monastery is indeed something to behold.  I was lucky enough to visit during autumn, when the leaves were changing colors and there was a gentle, crisp breeze sweeping across the area.  The monastery itself is surrounded on three sides by high walls, and on the fourth side by the mountain.  The complex consists of several inter-connected churches and the main cathedral, which was built in 1215.  Again, legend has it that the spear that pierced Jesus Christ was brought here to this monastery.  In fact, “geghard” means “spear” in Armenian.  Entrance to this monastery and its grounds is absolutely free of charge and you will be marveled by the beautiful and intricate carvings located all around the complex. There is even a small pond located in one of the chambers, carved into the mountain.

In addition to the impressive monastery, you can sample some traditional Armenian goods sold by locals, such as delicious sujukh, which is a dried spicy sausage, or gata, a sweet, flat, and round pastry, which is essentially the national dessert and one of my favorites. To get to Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery, you can rent a car, hire someone to drive you (which is cheaper), take a tour, or even take a bus (which is the cheapest option).

For many people who visit Europe and have an interest in an ancient, profound, and unique culture, Armenia is perhaps not the first country that comes to mind.  However, one can experience sights just as wonderful as those in Ancient Greece and Spain, without dealing with the horde of tourists, the expense of the euro, and go somewhere truly off the beaten path.  Indeed, Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery offer the visitor many interesting insights into the rich Armenian culture, which has survived for thousands of years and will continue to survive for many thousands more. Why not visit Garni and Geghard, and experience something you will likely talk about for years to come?  I know it’s certainly a story I’d like to tell everyone I meet. 

For more information on Garni Temple, visit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garni
For more information on Geghard Monastery, visit: http://www.armeniapedia.org/index.php?title=Geghard_Monastery
For more information on Armenia and an excellent read, check out the guidebook, “Rediscovering Armenia,” at: 
http://www.armeniapedia.org/index.php?title=Rediscovering_Armenia_Guidebook