Antique
Shopping in Europe with The Antiques Diva
By Toma
Haines
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November/December 2007
If
I were a magician, I would wave my wand and excitedly exclaim, “Prepare
to be enchanted for you are about to enter the dazzling world of The Antiques
Diva!” As I’m not a magician, just an antique-shopper extraordinaire,
then I’ll have to ask you to trust me to be your shopping companion as
I show you the best places in Europe to stop, shop and roll out the dough.
France is the
ideal place to start any antique shopping tour. Around the world,
I find “European Antiques” and “French Antiques” used interchangeably.
If France is the sun, then antique shoppers are the world. Our buying
patterns revolve around French finery as if one of the Louis’ cast a spell
to magnetically pull all future generations towards the treasures of La
République!
If you’re going
to France, then what better place to start than the world-famous “Marché
aux Puces de Saint-Ouen - Porte de Clignancourt”. As lovely as Paris
is with the Tour Eiffel and the Haussmanian buildings, this market is located
in the hairy armpit of the city. And trust me, Paris isn’t wearing
any deodorant. This isn’t a typical flea market filled with makeshift
tents but, instead, well-organized permanent structures housing millions
of euros of inventory, complete with 13 districts, 2,000 vendors and 7
miles of alleyways.
As this is Paris,
the flea market also boasts an assortment of eateries such as the singing
Chez Louisette or the gourmet Le Soleil. “Les Puce” is only open
3 ½ days a week -- Friday morning for the dealers and Saturday,
Sunday and Monday for the mere shopping mortals. On Mondays, half
the vendors close early in the spirit of TGIM.
Perhaps the
downside of the market is that “les puce” is the 4th largest tourist attraction
in France with 11 million visitors per year. For this reason, French
friends advise “leave Clignancourt and their overpriced forgeries to the
tourists.” Personally, I ignore these naysayers, as I’ve found incredible
purchases, once buying a Chest of Drawers that was later valued at 4 times
the price. I’ve found forgeries but vendors tend to confess when
asked if something is a reproduction.
In Paris, I
also peruse the 380 stalls set up Saturday and Sunday 7am - 1pm along the
14th arrondissement’s Avenue Marc Sangnier and Avenue Georges Lafenestre.
The Porte de Vanves Market has less panache than Clignancourt, but you’re
more likely to find a bargain, especially during the last weekend in July
when many of the vendors are departing for their working holidays as they
select inventory while vacationing in France.
While the flea
markets in Paris have a special place in my heart, I love to browse the
upscale galleries where I do more sight-seeing than shopping. Visiting
galleries is like doing a wine tasting to educate the palate or touring
a museum to educate the eye. The 120 galleries in the Carré
Rive Gauche across the river from the Louvre in St-Germain-des-Prés
literally have me licking the windows. I can barely contain my drool
when I cross the Seine to Le Louvre des Antiquaires on the other side of
the museum where you’re given the option to purchase the type of treasures
found within the palatial walls. For more attainable prices,
I head to Village Suisse, at 54, Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, in the shadow
of the Tour Eiffel.
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History
lesson, tourist guide and storytelling all rolled into one. Archie
Satterfield’s fascinating account of the birth, death and re-birth of the
canals and waterways of Western Europe is compulsive reading.
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What is the black legacy of
Paris? Is there some reason Blacks ought to go there either as a
place to vacation or as an expatriate destination?
The answer is yes.
The French have a legacy of accepting
the disenfranchised regardless of the cause of that disenfranchisement.
It make the French a special people, and Paris a special place.
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Living in Paris is as difficult
as it is romantic. Just as anywhere else in the world, life is filled with
the practical issues we must confront from day to day. Work has to be secured,
papers registered, an apartment or house needs to be bought or rented.
Though France might seem as familiar as any other Western country, the
truth is, from paying taxes to having a baby -- things are done differently
in France. Get this guide to help you.
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Speaking of better
prices, you must go to the “Depot Vente de Paris” at 81 Rue de Lagny, in
the 20th arrondissement. One day I found a 1950’s black mirror tea
trolley for a mere 15 Euros. The 14th arrondissement’s Depot Vente
d'Alesia at 117 rue d’Alesia carries equally well-priced antique, vintage
and used items coated with a layer of dust, making you believe you have
found a buried treasure.
No
antique shopping trip to France is complete without a trip to Provence
to visit L’Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue, where the town appears to be a year-round,
town-wide (incredibly chic) garage sale. If you’ve never heard of
L’Isle, then you might as well lie down and begin kissing the ground I
walk upon for this is among the best “brocanting” in Europe. The
flea market day is Sunday along the Avenue de 4 Otages, but even without
the market you’ll find the loot literally pouring out of shops. Of
course, all this shopping makes me hungry, so I stop at the Café
de France with its wonderfully fresh Provencial cuisine.
Don’t think
that L’Isle is the only antique shopping Provence offers. I could
write a book pondering the best markets, but for the short list, a trip
to this region is not complete without stopping in Villeneuve Les Avignon
for their Saturday morning flea market in the Place du Marché.
The new city of Avignon was built across the river from Avignon where their
market is held Sunday mornings at the Place de Carmes. Wednesdays
in Saint Remy-de-Provence is an excellent typical Provencial market, which
I insist you must visit in spite of the fact antiques are non-existent.
It’s time to
hop on the Eurostar and shoot under the Channel to London, where if you’re
a native English speaker, you’ll be jolly glad to have a break from thinking
in a foreign language. Of course, the time you save taxing yourself
speaking French, you’ll spend in shock at how bloody expensive everything
is. My husband tends to go numb as he accepts the inevitability that
he will spend more than intended.
The first place
you’ll want to pour out your pounds is at the Portobello Market where you’ll
join the hip and trendy as you walk, rubbing elbows with celebs and designers.
That is, assuming you can actually walk. The last time I was there
I stood bottlenecked for a good part of the morning. The market is
open on Saturdays with stalls arranged along Portobello Road offering everything
from upscale to low scale, or no scale at all. Recent purchases have
included an antique map of London, 12 mismatched tarnished silver goblets
perfect for a medieval feast, porcelain, porcelain, porcelain and a coat
straight out of “That Girl”.
I like to return
to Notting Hill mid-week to visit the shops along the side streets.
I arrive early and stop in The Hummingbird Bakery, where as an American
living overseas, I am given “a taste of home” with cupcakes, cookies and
pies. Later, carb hungry yet again, I pop into Still Too Few for
a spot of tea and some scones. In London, I live on carbs.
My British friend Sue is appalled by the classlessness of my repeated cravings
for greasy fish and chips.
On the same side
of the city, but not conveniently nearby, is Alfie’s Antique Market at
Church Street 13-25. Perhaps it’s the “For He’s A Jolly Good Fellow”
store name that gives Alfie’s their bartender approach to selling antiques.
This is the type of place where everybody knows your name. Just like
at Portobello, you’re likely to shop alongside the UK’s rich and famous.
I once stalked who I thought to be Nina Campbell and she unknowingly led
me on a whirlwind tour, picking through gilt picture frames, Moulin Rouge
memorabilia and avant-garde furniture. Alfie’s sister store, Gray’s
Antique Market, at Davies Street 58 is more upscale with its collection
of fine antiques, jewelry, rare books and vintage fashion. Housed
in a 19th C grade 2 listed building nearby Oxford, New Bond and Regent
Streets, the location is a dream and more convenient than Alfie’s although
less chocked full of quirky character.
At Covent Garden
you’ll find two Monday antique markets 10am - 6pm -- The Apple Market inside
the piazza and Jubilee Hall Market on the south side of the piazza.
A variety of crafts are sold alongside antiques. These markets are a tad
too commercial, but the location is convenient, so I keep coming back.
Speaking of places that pull me back, a trip to London is not complete
without visiting Camden Passage at Upper Street N1.
Wake early
on Wednesday or Saturday and you’ll be rewarded with the hustle and bustle
of activity in their 200 antique stores. Popular with tourists, you’ll
be surprised to note that in this English city, Camden vendors proudly
display “French, German or Japanese spoken here” signs. Perhaps the
variety of languages is indicative of the variety of antiques sourced from
around the globe. Clearly the vendors search east and west, north
and south for their wares. Dining in Camden Passage causes you to
take a mental voyage and I always pack my passport to be prepared for the
journey.
Camden Passage
shouldn’t be confused with Camden Lock, a favorite haunt of the alternative
crowd. It is now open 7 days a week, but weekends are still the most
popular. Although the area is home to several markets, my favorite
is Camden Stables at Chalk Farm Road N1 with over 500 vendors. Another
alternative market is the New Caledonian Market, or Bermondsey Market,
held Friday mornings 6am-12pm on Bermondsey Square. Each time I visit,
I feel like I’m about to be cast as an extra on BBC’s Eastenders.
After all this
time in the city, it’s time to ride the English rail! All aboard
British Railways! First stop, The Cotswolds -- England's answer to
Provence, known for it’s antique shopping and for Madonna’s country abode.
I start in Chipping Camden because I’m addicted to “cream tea” at Bantam’s
Tea Room and I enjoy the antique and artisinal goods shopping on Sheep
Street. I’m also impressed by Highgrove, Prince Charles’ residence
nearby the antique-shop-filled town of Tetbury.
Speaking of
Charlie and cream tea, the last time I was in Somerset, I stayed in The
Corston Fields Farm B&B on Duchy of Cornwall land nearby Bath.
Please, darling, don’t say “Bath” as if it’s a “hygene word” but draw the
short “a” out as if Professor Henry Higgins himself is standing behind
you. Oprah chose Bath as one of the top 5 places you must see and
I couldn’t agree more. I amend her list specifying that, when in
Bath, you must go to Sally Lunn’s for tea and a bite of their famous bunns!
Antique shops and markets are tucked into every nook and cranny in this
Roman Village. The Paragon Market in the Bladud Building takes place
Wednesdays and all 60 vendors are on staff as my personal shoppers.
Saturdays from 6am – 2:30pm I hand over my paycheck at the Walcot Street
Flea Market. Then I hand over my credit card when I walk in the door
of Bartlett Street Antiques Center (located at # 5/10) where their 80 stalls
offer everything from buttons to barometers. The well-established
Fountain Antique Center, on Lansdown Road, has 2 floors filled with military
memorbilia, clocks and 19th C furniture. Amidst their many collectibles,
I purchased my best find yet - a WW II aviators scarf printed with
a map of the area the parachuting soldiers were expected to land within.
While I would
advise that you purchase one of these rare maps should you stumble upon
it, thankfully you won’t be needing it when you hop on the budget airline
Easy Jet to fly back to the continent. After spending so much money
in England, you’d be wise to head to The Netherlands and Belgium – home
of the best antique bargains in Western Europe. In the past decades,
antiques have fallen out of favor with the fashion forward low landers
and every Jan, Henk and Peter is cleaning their “zolder”, selling it’s
contents. A perfect place to start your tour of canal-lined Amsterdam is
opposite the Rijksmuseum in The Spiegelkwartier where the 100 best antique
shops have congregated. Next on your list should be De Looier Antique
Mall at Elandsgracht 109, overflowing with more perfectly packables.
My
favorite place to shop in Amsterdam is the 9 Little Streets. The
district was built in the 17th C to house the craft and guild workers outside
of the original town center. Over the centuries, Amsterdam was built
up extending the city but the artisans weren’t driven away by the gentrification.
My favorite antique shop, De Weldaad at Reestraat 1, specializes in French
and Swedish country style. Both their shop in A’dam as well as their
other one “on the farm” in Abcoude are so perfect that I’d move into the
window display tomorrow. When I don’t have time to shop all 9 Streets,
I do a “Cliff’s Notes” version, visiting 2 streets nearby this district
- the Prinsenstraat and the Herenstraat.
I do not like
the flea markets in Amsterdam. Though considered institutions, the
Albert Cuypmarkt and Waterlooplein tend to be too heavy on the fleas.
The Monday morning Noodermarkt is full of used clothes and bric-a-brac,
however I’ve found a few stalls selling genuine antiques. I picked up an
art deco bronze for a third of it’s value. Sundays May to October
head to Nieuwemarkt, similar to the Noodermarkt, to do casual browsing.
On a sunny afternoon, take a coffee at In de Waag, housed in a part of
the former city wall where Rembrandt used to lurk.
Amsterdam is
charming with it’s chunky gables and glittering canals, but The Hague feels
regal with her international flavor. Thursday and Sunday, May to September,
Lange Voorhout Antiek Markt gathers in front of the gorgeous Hotel des
Indes where I stop for an afternoon tea experience worthy of The Ritz.
Visit a VVV (Tourism Office) to pick up a map of The Hague’s antique shops.
s’Hertogenbosch, in central Holland, is host of the the AFSH Art Fair,
and they also offer a map of their antique shops. The pièces
de résistance of Holland is TEFAF, the world’s leading art and antique
show held each March in Maastricht. As you can imagine, Maastricht
itself has a great number of antique shops clustered primarily in the district
of Wijck.
Once in Maastrict,
it starts to feel a bit like Belgium already. Say what you want about
little Belgie, but I adore it and I am looking to buy a country
home nearby Tongeren, which hosts Europe’s 2nd largest flea market after
L’Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue. Tongeren is the oldest town in Belgium and
is complete with Roman fortifications and an imposing Gothic church. Add
to this setting tons of antique shops and you’ve got an antiquer's euphoria.
Of course, before going to Tongeren you really should hit Brussels and
go to the Place du Grand Sablon Market, an upscale market that is oh-so-yummy,
Saturdays9am-6pm and Sunday’s 9am – 2pm. Around the square, interior
shops compete for attention with art and antiques galleries. Though
the flagship Flamant Interiors at Place du Grand Sablon 32 is not an antiques
shop, I spend an incredible amount of time here, browsing and drinking
free samples of Nespresso. At # 39 is the Sablon Antiques Center,
with 15 vendors and at least 50 items I want to take home.
The Place du
Jeu de Balle Market is a grittier sort of flea market. Although this
market occurs daily there are no permanent structures. Blankets and
tables are spread out in a parking lot. It’s not in the best of neighborhoods,
but true treasures are to be found.
The town of
Ghent is less well known than Brussels but is an excellent source for antiques.
Walk the following streets - Onderbergen, Koornlei, Kraanlei and Steendam
– and you’re certain to come home with a world-class souvenir. An
antiques market is held Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings around St.
Jacobs Church. From Ghent, Bruges is a short drive away and happens
to be one of the most beautiful towns in Europe. From mid-March to
mid-November you’ll find a flea market along Dijver street on Saturday
and Sundays 10am until 6pm. Nearby Charleroi, you’ll find L’usine,
on the Rue des Emailleries, in Gosselies, a warehouse emporium with 4,000
m2 or 43,000 ft2 packed with antiques. Leige offers a famous Sunday
street market, with 500 vendors stretched over 2 miles hosted in the tradition
of the old medieval fairs and selling everything from antiques to animals.
Last, but certainly
not least, on every antiquer’s list should be Antwerp. Should you
be as interested in fashion (or diamonds) as you are in antiques, then
you might choose to never leave this tiny metropolis. There are over
200 antique stores in Antwerp, clustered around the Schuttershofstraat
and Leopoldstraat and on Sint-Salvatorskerkhof. Antiquairs Antwerpen
offers a brochure listing each dealer and their specialties. Two
weekly flea markets are held from Easter to October on Saturdays from 9am
– 5pm at the Lijnwaadmarkt and mornings only at the Vogelmarkt.
Antwerp is
one of those cities many tourists visiting Europe neglect to visit, not
realizing what a gem it is. That’s why I’m writing this article,
so that you, my friend, won’t miss the best antiquing Europe has to offer.
While this certainly isn’t comprehensive, it’s a good start to set you
on your way to antique touring in Europe. As always, it’s best to
confirm dates and addresses as locations move, events are canceled and
days of the week change.
Alas, I’m utterly
exhausted! Shopping is hard work. But don’t worry; a diva’s
work is never done… I’ll be back again in Escape From America with more
tips on antique shopping!
| If you're
interested in antiques, you might be interested in The Antiques Diva™ blog
sharing antique, shopping and travel tips!
The Diva covers
any topic that strikes her fancy. One day it might be a travelogue
and the next, dates for a new exhibition. Another entry finds recipes
from a recent dining extravaganza or innovative, decorating tips for putting
impulse, tourist-tack purchases to good use.
You never know
what you will find on The Antiques Diva™ - you simply have to click to
see what ponderings are prancing around The Diva’s head at present! www.antiquesdiva.blogspot.com
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The
Writers Insider Guide To Paris - Perhaps you are fed up with your 9
to 5 regime; perhaps you are a writer needing a new perspective . . . perhaps,
like so many, you are intoxicated by the myth of writing in Paris (have
read A Moveable Feast, dreamt of Sartre in Les Deux Magots, been haunted
by the Beatniks' or Henry Miller's immortalized adventures) and are interested
in discovering what such a life is all about. For whatever reason, you
are ready to make Paris your home and haven for new words. KNOW IT IS POSSIBLE.
This guide will set you off on the right footing by bringing to your attention
all the international and French resources available to writers in Paris
which might otherwise take you many pains and hours of research to locate.
The guide also directs you toward the active community of writers currently
located in Paris: i.e. the journals, bookstores, cafes, and soirées
where you can seek support, listeners, and public outlets for your work.
Throughout the guide you will find other writers' stories -- those published
or just beginning -- proof that the dream of writing in Paris is possible. |
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