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Margarita: A Caribbean Island Cocktail Unlike Any Other-2
By Charles Nesbit
October 2007
Continued/...
Weather: Mostly, overwhelmingly, incredibly benign & lovely! It does rain, (no monsoons) in November-December, with a few rainy days at the beginning of January. Also, with luck during June, July & August, but its tropical rain, warm rain. Often it will rain during the night & you’ll wake up to a wonderful aroma of rich moist soil & brilliant sunlight. If anything this island has suffered from long droughts, though not in recent times. 
HURRICANES: The Hurricane season, (should be of serious interest & concern for anyone planning to spend time or invest in this area) from June to October affects the entire Caribbean region plus Mexico and even the US all the way to Maine at times, Margarita lies south of the regular storm patterns. It does NOT mean we’re beyond all danger; it would be reckless to claim that. But the last near miss was in 1947 I am told. Since I moved here, we have seen some storms pass by within a 100kms or so, we’ve had serious rain & some stormy conditions, but never a direct hit or such closeness as to warrant special precautions. It could happen of course, the entire planet is experiencing upheavals related to human activity, but our location appears to benefit us in that regard. I pray it will continue so!

Geographical Stability: OK, so you KNOW San Francisco was devasted by an earthquacke and L.A. is pretty close to a major faultline. Would you still choose to move there? I mean by choice? A few Caribbean islands & most of Central America is close to active or semi-dormant volcanoes, would you still invest in a home there by choice? I’m not saying lose your job if your company transfers you to a seismic area, perhaps your job is too good to forego, perhaps you enjoy living dangerously, but by choice and with many less risky alternatives available, would you still move to an intrinsically dangerous place? Well good luck to you, it is your choice!
 

Margarita is not that far removed from a Continental-Atlantic faultline, but it’s not a major one, nor has it acted up for many years. Apart from the political scene at times, there is no volcanic activity in Venezuela I am aware of. As for mud-slides, our mountains are well covered with vegetation, protected from deforestation by local Laws & in any event we haven’t seen that kind of rain it takes to provoke slides such as one sees in Haiti and other islands, often due to deforestation.

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Personal Safety & Security: An increasingly important subject this, world-wide! Who, when escaping one war-zone wants to move to another? Yet it happens, especially when one doesn’t do one’s homework. There’s crime even in the Vatican I am told, also on the high seas. To escape it completely is probably utopian, or one may need to join the International Space Station, and who knows what goes on there. This island is no exception, it has its share of crime, some serious, most not so. In my soon to be published e-book about Caribbean life there will be more detailed data on how to avoid being an easy or obvious target. Of course mother-luck plays a role and one may get mugged stepping off the plane, but then we’re talking extremely bad karma, right! Most thieves, here at any rate, look for an easy target. The secret then is not to become one, i.e. be a difficult target, not flaunting wealth, not advertising valuables. There’s no need to anyhow on a Caribbean Island such as this. People here are more likely to judge you by your cheerful, generous personality than by your adornments, the reverse of how it works in the North. This is another reason why I suggest blending in with local culture, like the iguana.  I have quite a few in my own park, but hardly ever see one….All in all Margarita is pretty safe, especially if you know your way around & adopt the iguana’s technique.

Health Services: In two words – good, good!  Thanks to belonging to a large country with fine Universities & Medical Colleges, there’s no shortage of good Doctors, Dentists and all manner of Alternative Practitioners.  In recent years, the Government has invited Cuban Doctors as well, they offer free medical treatment in various ‘Ambulatorios’ around the island & my own experience with them has been positive, as well as with regular private medicine.  If you have insurance, fine – but you can also obtain coverage locally at fair rates.  Medical & Dental treatment costs are by far and away considerably less expensive than anywhere North!  We have emergency ambulance services, both public and private. Living well here should benefit your health and the idea obviously is to remain in good health, both Lab & physical check-ups should be undertaken regularly, but if something ever does go wrong, one can assume to be in good hands.

Air, Water, Food: The truth is there’s not too much to be said in these departments, the air is as clean as it can be with breezes coming off the ocean all the way from Africa.  The nearest industrial zone of any size might be somewhere in southern Brazil, hundreds of miles away.  Venezuela is one of the few truly blessed countries left on the planet, with a population comparable to that of Mexico City (for the entire country) and some of the world’s great rivers on its territory, there could hardly be a fresh water shortage.  As for food - fresh produce comes across from the mainland every day, there’s fresh fish a-plenty and at still very accessible prices.  Venezuelan cuisine is, on the whole interesting, tasty & healthy. Cheap, but good wines are imported from Argentina, Chile & there are some Venezuelan wines.  Beer & Rum are too cheap, so beware!  If you’re enjoying a marvellous grouper-steak at $150 a serving on Martinique, chances are it originated around here, where you’d be paying $15 for it. 
The island has good, medium & cheap-but-good Restaurants ALL over, there may also be some not worth mentioning, but that’s true everywhere.

Political and Monetary Stability: Politics are just that - politics!  One may agree or disagree with President Chavez, whom just about everyone has heard of by now (surely!). The fact that Venezuela is one of Latin America’s most stable democrazies with functioning institutions is also just that, a fact.  In general, things may be a little more agitated on parts of the mainland, but here on this island, folks of diametrically opposite persuasions sit around the Domino tables on a Saturday afternoon and enjoy a beer, & with that I hope to have told you an awful lot!!  The local currency, the Bolìvar or Bee, is soon to be revamped, i.e. it’ll lose a few 000s which successive administrations felt they needed to add in order to finance their erroneous fiscal policies.  The Bolivar Fuerte (or Strong Bolivar) BsF, will come into effect in Janury of 2008.  The current legal exchange rate is Bs.2150 = US$1, from January it will be BsF 2.15 = US$1.  The country at present operates Exchange Controls, hence I would advise to change not too much above expected short-term requirements at any one time.  More on this and other economic data in my e-book!

Communications: Flights to & from Margarita & Caracas (Maiquetia) are a-plenty, as well as other national destinations.  From Europe there are quite a number of services directly to the island, also good international connections via Caracas to the US & world-wide.  Good ferry services exist daily to the mainland, even several times per week to La Guaira, the port city for Caracas or another way to reach the International Airport at Maiquetia.  So there’s no need to ever feel claustrophobic here.  Going somewhere is not difficult!

The island’s highways & byways are better than most other islands’, simple as that!  Gasoline is (obscenely) cheap & there are local car dealerships for just about every major make.  Traffic has been on the increase of late, since more people visit or move here, so we’re beginning to see the occasional traffic jam, prompting me to get on my Chinese motor scooter & reach civilization within all of 8 minutes from my remote spot….
Phone & Internet as well as Satellite TV services are of international standard.  One can live in both worlds here, or in one or another. 

Island Beauties: I’ve already spoken about how naturally pretty both peninsulas are, how there are many miles of solitary sandy beaches, but also some beaches with action a-plenty, which I personally have not even been near for at least 15 years.  But that’s my personal preference.  If you want to see beauties & I MEAN beautiful anatomies, the choice is fair!  I’ll say no more here, there are enough web-sites to entice your rushing to Expedia or some such (not meant to be a plug)…We also have some of the planet’s best windsurf conditions; in fact one can surf from Margarita to Coche Island in the company of international windsurf talent. 

I know a few expats who stumbled, I mean really fell for local girls and at last count all seemed quite content.  I also know of one who stumbled (actually, took a serious knock) for & from a Lady of New Jersey.  Poor chap got taken to the cleaners by all accounts. (It can happen – even on an island in the sun)!

But then, on the plus side I know of several instances where folks who had moved here, decided to move on.  Never for long though, they usually backtrack within a few months to a year…There’s something about this place!

Island Exploration: I couldn’t live on a flat island I need at least some place to climb, feel temperature variations, breathe different air, see & smell vegetation, wade through a stream, spot some creatures in the wild.  Margarita has that.  The highest elevation (La Sierra) is only about 3000ft (950m), but it is cool up there and makes for an interesting walk with great views.  Other, smaller mountains also invite exploring, no need to feel bored ever!

History: The old Spanish capital of La Asuncion bears witness to colonial times, as does the port city of Pampatar, several Forts & defensive installations as well as churches & architecture generally.  There’s plenty to see & read about, it is an island with history!  Cubagua, one of the 3 islands comprising the State of New Sparta (Nueva Esparta), lies half-submerged since 1545 due to a tremor.  This was Spain’s pearl-diving hub and although there are no ancient buildings left now, part of the old city can still be seen below water.  It makes for interesting diving & snorkeling.

Modern Life: As stated, I enjoy living in a remote area surrounded by nature with as good a view of the sea as possible, but prefer not to live too close to the sea, not on nor immediately above; and this preference dates from many years before the Pacific Tsnunami.  It’s probably related to my sailing days, when I saw (& felt) just how quickly and how violently a placid blue lake can turn into a voracious monster.  With maturity there can also manifest itself a wish to at least be within striking distance of some contemporary temptations, like a few good stores, a Tony Roma’s (for want of a healthier example), or a better-type Tandoori, quite apart from your average open-air-in-the-sand Restaurant serving your average Catch-of-the-Day-in-a-Tamarind sauce…..When less mature (not that long ago) no doubt I would have preferred to both do the catching as well as the cooking, but these days choosing the appropriate White or Burgundy seems like challenge enough.  Hopefully with that point reasonably well made, I’ll say this island offers plenty of good choices & for all ranges of maturity.

The Law: I could never stomach smokey hiding behind a bush with a radar gun or sneaking up with madly wailing sirens & flashing lights declaring WWIV on me.  In the U.K. that cherished old slogan, The Police, your friend & helper, must sound pretty hollow to the family & friends of one Brazilian student gunned down in cold blood by an overzealous system.  I could quote a thousand other examples of excesses, brutality & miscarriages of justice, including some that came too close for comfort in our once liveable societies, now turned war-zones.  Then there’s The War on Terror to escape from!  Give me a break……I’m sure you don’t need political slogans on a Caribbean island…?  To the best of my knowledge and experience here, you’ll never have a problem with the Law as long as you stay clear of the obvious traps in any Caribbean environment.  The obvious traps are drugs (just DON’T!!) & drinking & prostitution environments (repeat - just DON’T)…

Here you can & should be whatever pleases you, the sole CEO of your own time & life!  Simply avoid doubtful situations and you’ll never have a problem!  Speeding doesn’t make any sense on an island where the furthest distance is less than 60miles or 100kms.  Why the Dickens speed here? For that matter, why buy a Bimmer??   If the cops stop you, & that usually only happens at checkpoints where they’ll request your ID & documents, but for whatever reason, always smile!  It’s a Caribbean island remember – a smile is your passport to successful living.  Whatever happens, never lose your cool, there’s always a silver lining if you smile & act politely!  That simple!

Other than the cops, there’s the National Guard (la Guardia) & the same applies, although they may sport scary looking rifles, they’re pretty professional bods.  If you do ever need a Lawyer, there’s no shortage, but you’ll probably need a good tip for the right one.  Legal processes are a little relaxed, Caribbean style, so if you ever do take someone to Court or it happens to you, take it easy, figure on a couple of years or more for due process.

Value: (This is about where it should be) Back in ’88, I needed to re-group in just about every sense & Margarita, which had (&still has) not been discovered, or is not properly recognised for what it has to offer, - was (& still is) a high value island.  To illustrate the point, a few random examples:

- Our rent back then for a lovely, huge colonial house in the capital city of La Asuncion - all of $150 per month.
- Today that may well have increased to around $300…..
- A delicious Red Snapper dinner for two avec wine was to be enjoyed for around $10, & can still be enjoyed for $25 or less today.  You can pay more if you really want, but you needn’t!
- Real Estate prices are on average just 50% below most other islands’, & even less when compared to St.Cripes & some catering to Lottery winners only…
- Construction quality is good by Caribbean standards!
- Imported or locally assembled vehicles are available tax-free, as are designer rags & most other capital goods.

Taxes: This is a Freeport of sorts, i.e.imported merchandise has low customs duties to pay & as of writing Margarita is still sales-tax exempt (hurray!!).  If you become a resident, you’ll need to complete a simple tax form for registration with the local SENIAT office & if you produce income here, make a once yearly declaration, be honest & pay any dues & be a good citizen.  That simple.

A Project: To experience some kind of contentment, Mankind needs the right stimuli, - summits to climb, distances to cover, new ground to chart, leaving one’s footprint where no others may have stood.  On a crowded planet these kinds of stimuli are ever more difficult to come by, and their absense one of the main reasons for our neurosis, pschosis, depression, ill-health & general discontent.  One may only remotely sense the void left by a lack of positive challenges, but it’s probably related to excesses and self-destructive habits as are tobacco, alcohol, drugs & aggressive behaviour.  My first six months on Margarita were spent loafing about - a huge challenge…..in the absense (back then) of any good maps, nor guide books, no Internet data, NO INTERNET! 

How did we ever manage, back then?  What was there to do?  Only one plausible option emerged after entire minutes of profound contemplation; pack a few essentials such as two extra towels, an extra pair of shorts, a t-shirt, sandals, sun-screen, a hat, both of the dobermann, extra water, fill up the 4x4 - for all of about $5 - and go-for-it, I mean the great-unknown ‘it’ of course….

Six or eight months whisked by, time meant very little…both halves of the island were meticulously, painstakingly explored, a deep suntan acquired, as well as beach & island exploration-skills honed to perfection…and then, one bright Caribbean day brought a realization along with it….THIS could not go on forever…not quite this!!  More, much more was needed, to feel a modicum of raison-d’etre, as it is known in la belle France…an actual reason to exist….Crisis time had arrived!

The result was the establishing of a kind of advertising-marketing-publishing business, (tropical style), in our ancient colonial house, near the 2nd oldest Cathedral of the Land & just across the Island’s Governor’s Residence.  One of our very first projects (& a pretty successful one too), was getting a decent island map & visitor’s guide in 5 languages published, so as to save future tourists the hard work & effort one had been obliged to suffer just to get to know an island.  After all, not everyone coming with a couple of weeks off from work can afford to invest 8 months in research… It grew to become an interesting and modestly productive project, but change was in the Trade Winds, I could sense it! 

Since early days I always felt a special kinship toward Mother Nature.  Whilst most kids played marbles, a few buddies & self spent endless hours exploring the surrounding forests.  School activities included hikes and week-end camping in the country side, usually by a stream.  The seed was obviously planted, as I always felt a real need for closeness to Nature.  A 1989 TIME edition titled TORCHING THE AMAZON, described in appalling detail some of what was happening in that close-by region, I had visited & had felt overawed by its MAJESTY some years earlier.  Now confronted by a reality I had heard of, but never seen as graphically described, had a profound effect on my emotions.

Shortly thereafter saw the beginnings of a new project for me, an environmental one – on which I am still working 15 years later.  More on this on our web-site if interested, but the point I am trying to make in all of this is how fulfillment and contentment to a degree, were found on this small island in the Caribbean, not in one of the war-zones, not among the glitter, fast cars, phoney smiles & general baloney I had erroneously been placed in or near or placed myself in. 

There was one salient & contributing element allowing me to move forward – it was time…time to think, time to reflect, time for myself.  Sadly our way of life in those areas we’re most frequently trying to escape from, deprives us of that most precious element…our time, your time!!  So if you’re not the master of your time, what are you?  On this island, & most likely on many others, there’s no need to pawn your time, let alone sell it……
 

You can visit my project on Isla Margarita at www.Cefimarpark.org
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