Leap
of Faith
By David
Morrill
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October 2007
| Ecuador
mostly appeals to the adventurer, expat, or investor willing to take a
leap of faith, both geographical and psychological, across the continental
divide from Central to South America.
The Miami-Quito
flight is but an hour longer than the Miami-Panama City flight, yet Ecuador
has a reputation of being "out there." Good, say I. All the
more of this exotic little country for me to have to myself.
Ecuador, about
the size of Nevada, contains more biodiversity, mile for mile, than any
other country on earth. It boasts a 1,400-mile Pacific, cliff-studded,
and largely undeveloped coast…glacier-clad mountains that soar to almost
21,000 feet…jungles that form the headwaters of the Amazon…and one of the
planet's most fascinating island chains: The Galapagos.
The number
of expats here is small compared to the numbers in many Central American
countries, even nearby Colombia and Venezuela. There are no gringo-only
resorts here. If you live in Ecuador, you live mostly among middle-
and upper-class Ecuadorians, or other South Americans. You will have
a handful of North American or European friends, but you will find yourself
immersed in the culture and its traditions. You will also find yourself
forced - and not always comfortably - to make your Spanish understandable
to cabbies, tailors, waiters, and the fellow down the street.
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For sportsmen,
naturalists, and art collectors, Ecuador offers a veritable smorgasbord
of opportunities: Mountain climbing, hiking, diving, bird watching, paragliding,
mountain biking, surfing, and arguably the best sport fishing in the world.
For the lover of fine crafts and art, the Andean craft trail, anchored
in the north by Otavalo and in the south by Cuenca, is unique in Latin
America. To wander the crowded, colorful stalls and shops offering
world-class weavings, silver and gold jewelry, leather products, carved
statues, reproductions of religious artifacts, paintings, ceramics, and
hand-made guitars, is a feast for the senses.
Despite its
exoticness, Ecuador's popularity has soared in recent years, not just among
tourists - whose numbers increased 25% last year - but for potential expats
and investors. The number of North American and European property
purchasers have more than doubled since 2005.
Why are more
people coming down here to take a look? I think there are several reasons.
Visitors to
cities such as Quito and Cuenca, comparing them to cities in Central America
and Southeast Asia, often comment that they don't feel as if they are in
a Third-World country. Although there is plenty of poverty in Ecuador,
the country ranks in middle of Latin American countries in this category
with its comparatively larger middle class, better off than most of Central
America - Panama being the notable exception - and more prosperous than
the surrounding Andean nations of Peru, Bolivia, and Colombia.
The country
ranks low in major crime. Interpol, the World Bank, and the United
Nations, rank Ecuador between third and fifth as the safest country in
Latin America. Ecuador's most dangerous cities, Guayaquil and Quito,
in terms of per capita crime, have lower murder, rape, and assault rates
than Philadelphia, Atlanta, Miami, or Los Angeles. An important caveat
however: like most of Latin America, petty crime and property crime are
high in Ecuador, and tourists and newcomers must keep their wits about
them and remember lessons they've learned on previous trips: Keep a tight
hold on bags, cameras and jackets, and an eye out for suspicious characters
working in teams of two or more.
Another significant
reason for Ecuador's popularity is the number of visitors who return home
and convince their friends and neighbors to travel south to take a look.
In Cuenca, I know a Manhattan entrepreneur who purchased a condo in a new
midrise building and persuaded a friend, a congressional aid, to buy an
apartment a few blocks away on the Riobamba River. In Salinas, two
college buddies who love deep-sea fishing have bought side-by-side condos
just off the beach. In Los Chillos, a lower valley outside Quito,
two recently retired couples bought nearby houses and joined the country
club so they could pursue their passion for golf.
One of Ecuador's
strongest selling points is its low cost of living. Depending upon
lifestyle, a monthly budget for a couple runs 30% to 50% of a similar U.S.
budget. A shopping cart in a modern Ecuadorian grocery store will
cost, on average, 60% of the cost of the same cart in the U.S. An
even better deal is shopping in one of the country's many indigenous mercados.
How about five avocados for a dollar? Watermelons for 50 cents? Medical
care? A visit to the general practitioner's office will cost you
about $20; a half hour with a psychiatrist, $25.
A primary reason
for Ecuador's low cost of living, of course, is real estate. In 2005,
property prices for non-coastal property ran 20% to 50% of those in the
U.S. Bargains are even more dramatic for coastal properties.
A 1,650-square-foot, 12th-floor, four-bedroom, oceanfront condo in a new
Salinas highrise is priced at $145,000. A comparable new condo in
Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, Destin, or Marco Island, Florida, would run
between $850,000 and $1.5 million.
This article
previously appeared in International Living. (http://www.internationalliving.com/ecuador/free/10-24-06-expats.html
) Subscribe to International Living’s free daily e-letter here. (
http://www.internationalliving.com/opt/escape )
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