Crossing Japan by Train
By Arin Vahanian
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September 2007
How
would you like to go halfway across the most expensive country in the world,
by train, for just $20? Year after year, Japan tops the lists of
expensive countries, yet there are extraordinary bargains to be found.
One of them is the opportunity to travel across the country for the price
of two movie tickets. Do you like to surf? Then you can go all the
way from Tokyo to southern Japan’s largest city, Fukuoka, a distance of
1,175 kilometers (730 miles). Or, if you prefer skiing, how about
going to the northern city of Akita, a distance of 659 kilometers (409
miles)? In either case, it only costs you $20.
Last winter,
I was fortunate enough to be able to go from Tokyo all the way to Kobe,
in western Japan, using this great deal. The delicious, mouth-watering
steak I ate in Kobe tasted all the better because I knew I had only
spent $20 getting there, so I could sink my teeth into the exquisite,
world-famous Kobe beef without breaking the bank. And you too can have
such an adventure, because this deal is available to anyone visiting or
living in Japan. Called the Seishun Jyuuhachi Kippu (youthful 18
ticket), this fantastic bargain is available three times a year, for
more than a month each time.
Despite the
rather strange name, anyone can purchase and use the SJK. There is
one catch, however: you must buy it in packs of five, meaning that you
buy a book of five tickets, each worth 2,300 yen ($20 at today’s exchange
rate), for a total of 11,500 yen. Each ticket has unlimited use during
any one day, but you don’t have to use the tickets on consecutive days.
You can instead use the tickets on any five days during the availability
period.
Our journey
began early one winter morning, just outside Tokyo, where four friends
and I took the JR Tokaido train from Fujisawa station heading towards western
Japan. We boarded the train just after 7:00 a.m. and were surprised
at how comfortable it was. For such a low price, we had expected
an old, rickety train crammed with standing passengers elbowing each other
for space. Nothing could have been further from the truth, for what
we encountered was a clean, fast, modern train car with few passengers
and many seats available. The fact that we were just outside of Tokyo
meant that there would be fewer passengers, but nothing could take away
the fact that this was an extraordinary deal. We were all able to
snag a seat and enjoy the seaside view, as the train sped along Japan’s
east coast, past the beaches and hillside homes.
As mentioned
earlier, the train we were taking was a JR Tokaido train. You can
use the SJK only on JR (Japan Rail) trains, anywhere in the country.
However, the train must be either a local train (stops at every station
on the train line) or rapid (stops at some stations on the train line).
Unfortunately, you can’t use the SJK on the bullet train, limited express,
or express trains, so that’s why we didn’t get on the bullet train and
instead got on a local train.
However, the
unbelievably low cost of the ticket more than makes up for the time spent
on the trains. For example, traveling from Tokyo to Osaka on the
bullet train takes only three hours, but you’ll pay 13,950 yen ($121) one-way,
as opposed to the SJK, which would take nine and a half hours, but only
cost you $20 one-way. The SJK costs six times less than the bullet
train, but the real advantage of the SJK is that you can exit any station
on your way and look around. For example, if you’re traveling from
Osaka to Fukuoka, and on the way you want to stop by the Hiroshima Peace
Memorial Museum, you can do so and then get back on the train and continue
your journey without paying extra. |
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We did just that
during our trip, as on our way back from Kobe to Tokyo, we stopped by the
beautiful castle town of Hikone and walked around the old town, its streets
covered with snow. After about 10 minutes, we reached the entrance
to Hikone Castle. And after a short walk up the hill, we marveled
at the sight of the grandiose Hikone Castle. We could not have done
that had we traveled by the bullet train. With the bullet train,
we would have had to get off the train and then pay again when we got back
on the train to continue our journey.
Depending on
the length of your journey, you may have to change trains a few times.
We changed trains about five or six times, as we were traveling on local
and rapid trains. This, however, was not a problem, since train stations
across Japan have plenty of signs written in English and it is actually
quite easy to change trains even without speaking or reading a word of
Japanese.
If you’re a
night owl, you’ll be pleased to hear that there are some rapid night trains
on which you can use the SJK. In fact, one of my Japanese friends
had used this same deal in his university days to get to Tokyo from his
hometown of Fukuoka. These trains are called “Moonlight” trains and are
available in various parts of the country. For example, the Moonlight
Kyuushuu train takes you from Osaka to Fukuoka, and the Moonlight Nagara
takes you from Tokyo to Nagoya. This is a fantastic way to save time
and money, since you can travel at night and not spend any money on a hotel room.
And, since one day is defined as midnight to midnight, to maximize the
SJK’s usage, you can board a train just before midnight and use the ticket
until midnight the next day. Hence, this is very popular among SJK
users and it is wise to find out the timetable and make a reservation if
necessary.
Another good
thing about the SJK is that you can share and transfer the ticket between
friends and travel companions. Last winter I traveled with four other
friends, so we bought two SJK tickets for the entire group of five (a total
of ten tickets). We each got the SJK stamped once from Tokyo to Kobe,
and then again from Kobe to Tokyo, meaning that we used up all ten tickets
on the SJK. There are of course, many combinations possible with the SJK,
but when using it as a group, all members of the group would have to travel
together since there is only one card for the entire group. But regardless
of whether you travel alone or with a group, I strongly recommend you to
make an itinerary prior to traveling, since you will likely have to change
trains a few times, and because in certain rural areas of Japan, local
train service is infrequent. You can find Japan train schedules on
Web sites such as Hyperdia or by contacting a JR office in Japan.
Our trip came
to an end when we finally reached Tarumi station in Kobe, at around 8 p.m.
The reason it had taken so long was that we had stopped twice, once for
breakfast and once for lunch. Had we not stopped at all, we would
have arrived at our destination at around 4:30 p.m. But the beauty
of the SJK deal was we had the freedom to stop, enjoy the scenery, and
get something to eat, thus making our journey considerably more interesting
and comfortable. The next day, we were to check out all that western
Japan had to offer, including the wonderful Kobe beef. I could just
feel my teeth sinking into the succulent, juicy steak, but I had to endure
what seemed like an interminable wait. It would all be worth it in
the end however, for who would have believed that we had spent only $20
each in getting halfway across the country?
According to
a comprehensive survey conducted by Mercer Human Resource Consulting in
2004, Tokyo is the world’s most expensive city. That’s fine with
me, because I can still travel from Tokyo to almost anywhere in the country
for the price of a bottle of wine. No matter what your preferences
are, you too can take advantage of the SJK and go just about anywhere in
Japan. From surfing in the south of Japan, to skiing in the north
of Japan, to Kyoto’s majestic temples, to Tokyo’s massive skyscrapers,
it’s all there, waiting for you. All you have to do is say yes to
this fantastic deal and let the SJK take you anywhere you want to go in
Japan.
For more information:
JR East Web site
(in English): www.jreast.co.jp
Japan-Guide
info on the SJK:www.japan-guide.com
Hyperdia train
timetable: www.grace.hyperdia.com
| Arin Vahanian
is author of 'An Expat's Guide to Living in Spain' and 'An Expat's Guide to
Investing Offshore', both of which are currently unavailable. |
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An
Expat’s Guide to Investing Offshore - So, you have decided to make
your move and become an expat. You have an income or a lump
sum and your expenses are under control – things are going well and you
love your new life. You know you’ve made the right choice and you
aren’t looking back. But have you dealt with your financial future?
Life as an
expatriate has never been more exciting or rewarding, but being an expatriate
does not mean that you can ignore the importance of saving and investing.
At first there seem to be fewer options out there for you, as you may not
be able to contribute to a retirement plan in your home country, such as
a 401k, Roth IRA or equivalent plan. That is one truth. But
there’s another more valuable truth -- expats also have many advantages
with the array of offshore investments available to them, so it’s possible
for you to invest and save more successfully than where you were at previously. |
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