June 2007
Don’t be fooled by the ambrosial pastries, the omnipresent bottle of red wine, and the hordes of impossibly slim women sipping an espresso and cradling their Louis Vuitton; French is not the language of Buenos Aires.  Those who love the “Paris of South America” know that although its broad avenues, stylish inhabitants, and mouthwatering cuisine may look to Europe for inspiration, its unique charm can only be described as 100% Argentine.

The birthplace of tango and the heir of gaucho (Latin cowboy) endurance and pride, Buenos Aires enjoys worldwide fame - and rightly so - for its exquisite leather goods, superb Malbec wines, savory steaks, inexpensive plastic surgery and (draw your own conclusions) beautiful women.  However, those are only a few of the reasons travelers are suddenly flocking to Argentina... and in some cases, never going home.

Spaniard Pedro de Mendoza founded Buenos Aires in 1536, and it became a thriving port, inspiring the nickname Porteños for the residents of the growing city.  By the 1920’s, it was a favored destination for European immigrants, who were mostly Spanish and Italian, but also German, Irish, Portuguese, Polish, Irish, French, Croatian, English, and Arab... all seeking a fresh start in the city of “Good Air.”

My own motivation for heading to Argentina was the desire to immerse myself in the language and culture - and it didn’t hurt that young Prince Harry happened to be there at the time perfecting his polo.  After minimal research, I arrived in the city I would soon affectionately refer to as “B.A.” with a vocabulary almost as miniscule as my budget.  Of the 13 million residents, I knew not a soul.

Sipping a glass of wine in San Telmo on my second day, I received an unexpected invitation to join a nearby Argentine couple.  “Buenos Aires - and wine - must be shared with friends,” they insisted.

Instead of reminding them that we were not friends, and that in fact, I was a lowly American with a horrific accent and an embarrassing dislike for cow intestines (a delicacy in Argentina), I gratefully accepted.  Five hours later, after sharing several bottles of Torrontés wine, a delectable dinner, and a leisurely boat ride along the Rio de la Plata, I realized why Buenos Aires is experiencing a tourism renaissance.

It isn’t the enticing new restaurants, the exceptional shopping, the stimulating art scene, or even the swinging nightlife; it’s the manner in which Argentines go out of their way to share their culture with foreign visitors.  In Buenos Aires, even complete strangers are treated like old friends.

I remember my first ride into the city from Ezeiza International Airport well.  My taxi driver Luciano was resplendent in a mullet-esque hairstyle and a t-shirt featuring soccer deity Diego Maradona.  Squinting into a rearview mirror draped with rosaries and pictures of his mother, he launched into a riveting monologue revolving around local political intrigue (“The mayor is a corrupt pig, and secretly a Chilean”), Brazilian samba (“not half as good as Argentine cumbia music”), and those sinister Paraguayans (“$%#&@%$!”). Needless to say, national pride runs high in Argentina - often at the expense of the countries that border it.

After wrapping up his political diatribe, Luciano first requested my phone number, and then attempted to cheat me outrageously on the taxi fare, using ingenious tactics such as “I don’t have change for a five-peso bill.” After a heated argument, he insisted on carrying my bag upstairs, waiting until I was safely inside, and presenting me with a package of alfajores (scrumptious Argentine cookies) before departing with a bow.

Other initial impressions remain equally vivid - the cotton-candy pink Casa Rosada where the president resides, the fantastical Recoleta Cemetery with its ornate above-ground mausoleums (including that of the famous “Evita” Peron), and the impossibly broad Rio de la Plata, meaning “River of Silver”.  Overly optimistic (and possibly inebriated) Spanish explorers coined the name for the mighty river, which is actually more of a caramel brown.

I was enthralled by the street performers amid antiques shops in Spanish-inspired San Telmo, fascinated by the chain-smoking amigos deep in conversation at the chichi cafes of Recoleta, and disheartened by the child-clowns begging for pesos at major stoplights.  Despite the poverty that is visible beneath the sheen of affluent neighborhoods, Buenos Aires is generally quite safe (although First Daughter Barbara Bush did manage to get her cell phone stolen, despite being heavily guarded by the Secret Service).

Amid the expansive parks of Palermo (which include an excellent zoo, a marvelous rose garden, and a lake complete with paddle boats), couples out for a romantic stroll cross paths with Buenos Aires’ own “professional dog-walkers.”  These enterprising individuals manage to maintain a tenuous peace among canine platoons of up to 15 Huskies, Chihuahuas, Dalmatians, and everything in between. (The legal limit is eight dogs per walker... but Argentine law, like Indian, is open to "personal interpretation").

Dogs aren’t the only ones who enjoy a special place in the hearts of the Porteños.  Like Indians, Argentines consider cows to be sacred, but their worship takes a decidedly different form.  Rather than strolling along major highways and lollygagging on street corners, cows are most likely to be found sizzling on the parilla (grill), at one of the numerous local restaurants famous for their asado (grilled meat).

Hindus and vegetarian foodies need not despair, however.  Thanks to its abundance of Italian immigrants, Buenos Aires offers a succulent variety of pastas and pizzas, not to mention dulce de leche, an irresistibly creamy caramel that is equally good on toast, ice cream, or straight out of the jar (don’t tell my grandmother!). Hotspots such as Casa Cruz, Cluny, and Bar 6 are as popular for their atmosphere as for their cuisine, and at teatime, the clear choice is the resplendent Café Tortoni, whose clientele over the years has included literary, scientific, and political cult figures from Borges to Einstein.  Jazz and tango performances accompany your succulent miga sandwiches and obligatory maté cocido (a bitter green tea that is a national obsession).

People dine late in Buenos Aires - which allows plenty of time for a drink at one of the city’s alluring bars or lounges beforehand.  Sip nonchalantly on a basil daiquiri and people-watch at Milion, my favorite mansion turned upscale bar, or savor a glass of bubbly Chandon at Philippe Starck’s extravagant, avant-garde Faena hotel, a haunt of the fashion and design conscious.  Indulge your personal culinary whim by choosing from the smorgasbord of restaurants that line the waterfront - Sushi Club for the freshest fish, Sotto Voce for exquisite Italian fare, Cabaña de las Lilas to satisfy your carnivorous cravings.  All of these are located in the spectacularly revamped neighborhood of Puerto Madero, which even boasts a bridge by the Spanish architect Santiago Caltrava.

If you aren’t ready to collapse into your opulent suite after dinner (at the grandiose Alvear Palace, you even have your own personal butler on call), a plethora of nightlife awaits.  No trip to Buenos Aires would be complete without an evening of tango, the sensual musical and dance tradition that began in the slums and brothels of the city.  Originally considered a form of low-class debauchery, it gained international acclaim when singer Carlos Gardel toured Europe and won even the most aristocratic hearts.  Opera connoisseurs will know that the famous Colon Theater has some of the best acoustics in the world, while those with a bit of Latin blood can don their black pants - preferably several sizes too small - and experience a different kind of sound revolution at Opera Bay. The hottest dance club in Puerto Madero, it boasts five dance floors and an impeccably jet set clientele.  Fellows, be sure to work on your piropos (pick up lines) beforehand, since they are essential to successful integration.  If you need to loosen your tongue a bit, Argentine vineyards such as Catena Zapata, Escorihuela, and Terrazas are winning worldwide recognition.

Buenos Aires isn’t just about bacchanalian delights, however; a vibrant cultural scene permeates the city.  Begin with the remarkable MALBA, which showcases a menagerie of Latin-American art, before heading to the lovely Decorative Arts museum, housed in the former mansion of the prominent Alvear family.  Gallery fiends will encounter plenty of alluring spaces to peruse, and antique lovers will adore the narrow streets of San Telmo, which are a veritable treasure cove, especially on Sundays.

Sophisticated sports fans can don their whites for a day of equestrian delights at the Hippodrome or an outing to watch polo - the national sport, as well as an elite social event.  However, for a glimpse of insight into mainstream South American mentality, a visit to one of the hallowed fútbol (soccer) fields is a must.  Boca Juniors and River Plate are the two main rival teams, and a match between them combines all the elements of a carnival and a street fight, with the results affecting the national psyche to an alarming degree.

Before flying home, discerning shoppers should spend a day in Palermo.  This hip neighborhood began as an inexpensive bohemian enclave, and has now become the in vogue place to find everything from homemade paper to designer clothes, with a sprinkling of alluring restaurants and chic corner cafes nestled in between. Since the financial crisis of 2001, prices have plummeted, meaning that you can revamp your wardrobe without having to refinance your house. (Of course, by the end of your trip you may be ready to sell your house altogether and relocate to Buenos Aires…)

Call me a Porteña, but I can’t imagine getting bored in bustling “B.A.”  If you do have more than a long weekend, however, the rest of the country is a wonderland of natural attractions - from the Salt Flats in the North to the wilds of Patagonia in the South; from the verdant Mendocino vineyards to the vast traditional estancias (ranches); from the most spectacular glacier in the world (the Perito Moreno) to the magnificent lguazú Falls, which inspired Eleanor Roosevelt to exclaim, “Poor Niagara!”

You won’t find the Eiffel Tower in Argentina... but after your first unabashedly epicurean evening of Malbec wine and tango, you probably wouldn’t feel like climbing all those steps anyway.

Picture a place where history and modernity transform a bountiful land into a paradise for those who are willing to simply come and experience a new life.  Now picture yourself traveling there, to live, to settle, to experience all that such a place has to offer. What once seemed remote - a dream worthy of another dreamer - came true for us and it can be yours too.  With the Moving to Argentina E-Book you will have the answers you need to create your new life.  The Moving to Argentina E-Book contains our detailed experience of moving to this spectaular country.  For this E-book we've collected all of the valuable information we gained from our relocation that will help make your move as smooth as possible, and sprinkled the pages with the colorful details of our new life in Argentina. Moving to Argentina -  How to go about it by Delores Johnson.