Part of the problem is the city’s mixed heritage. Trg Bana Jelacica, the city’s center and main square, is named after the Croatian hero who defeated the Hungarians in 1848 and is celebrated by a monument. But Mr. Jelacica might not recognize this part of the city today, as diagonally opposite sits a squat monstrosity built during the socialist regime in the 1950’s that can’t be pulled down — because it’s over 50 years old and is listed.

Lidija Anic, from one of the country’s leading tour operators, Hidden Croatia, asks, “Does the city spend money on restoring many of its wonderful but crumbling buildings? Or should it take the cheaper route and knock them down to build characterless modern blocks? It’s a battle between developers and traditionalists. We’re the latter and continue to plough our profits back into the country. That’s how Croatian tourism will best survive and prosper: for the good of everyone.”

Lidija Anic, from one of the country’s leading tour operators, Hidden Croatia, asks, “Does the city spend money on restoring many of its wonderful but crumbling buildings? Or should it take the cheaper route and knock them down to build characterless modern blocks? It’s a battle between developers and traditionalists. We’re the latter and continue to plough our profits back into the country. That’s how Croatian tourism will best survive and prosper: for the good of everyone.” Another example of the curious juxtapositions that are part of the fabric of this city is in the cathedral. St. Stephen’s was built on the foundations of an 11th-century church, then reconstructed with twin neo-Gothic spires in 1899. Inside is a massive chandelier from a hotel in Las Vegas, installed in 2004. The topic keeps Zagreb’s café habitués arguing to this day about its aesthetic merits.

A short uphill stroll away is the 13th-century Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) featuring a painting of the Virgin Mary that miraculously escaped the great fire of 1731. Further on are the Presidential Palace, with colorful guards, the Croatian Parliament, and St. Mark's Church, housing works by Ivan Mestrovic, Croatia's most famous sculptor.

With any remaining breath, it’s worth climbing the Lotrscak Tower for a panoramic view, but watch out if you’re there at precisely noon, when a loud gun is fired. It used to sound as night fell, to warn citizens back into the city to avoid brigands. An enjoyable route back to the lower city is via the hundred-year-old funicular railway. Who needs mass tourism?

Zagreb's birth
Modern-day Zagreb has emerged from two medieval settlements that developed on neighbouring hills for centuries. The first written mention of the city dates from 1094, when a diocese was founded on Kaptol, and in 1242 neighbouring Gradec was proclaimed a free royal city. Both were walled cities, remains of which are still preserved. They were an important border during the Turkish attacks on Europe but it wasn't until 1850 that Kaptol and Gradec were brought together administratively as the city of Zagreb that we know today.

This article previously appeared in International Living (http://www.internationalliving.com/croatia/free/01-16-07-tourism.html). Subscribe to International Living's free daily e-letter here. (http://www.internationalliving.com/opt/escape )

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