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Dream of Tuscany With Eyes Wide Open
By Barbara A. Coe, Ph.D.
May 2007
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Becoming a Legal Resident
Since this apartment was intended as my primary residence, I started the process of obtaining a Certificate of Residence, which promises to save me money on several things - electricity costs and taxes for example. The first step in this process is obtaining a long-term stay visa, which has to be done in one's country of citizenship. You must go in person at least 30 days in advance of your departure and apply to the Embassy or Consulate in your region. You may or may not receive the Visa in time. The Embassy recommends that you arrive with plenty of documentation to prove you can take care of yourself financially - bank statements, investment statements, proof of your retirement account, social security payment proof, and also proof of medical insurance.
Also required is either a certified check or a money order for the cost - which varies from time to time. The Embassy celebrates all Italian as well as US holidays and the office that handles Visas is only open for a few hours each week. When I went, the available days and times were Monday and Thursday from 1:00 to 3:30 PM, but this varies too, so checking this in advance, is advised. Although the Embassy website provides much information, I found some of it was contradictory. 

I had been unable to obtain the Visa before leaving the States, (I never got a reply to my many phone calls) but since I was facing the possible customs charge for my shipment, plus a large tax liability on my property purchase (residents pay six percent; non - residents pay ten percent), I went anyway to the Questura, the office that issues the Promesso di Soggiorno - the right to stay in the country. Since no one takes money at the offices, one must first go to a tabacchi (a tobacco shop plus) to buy a marco de bollo, or stamp for the amount required (currently 14 euros) and then take the stamp to the office. I had all the documents in a quite-impressive packet, and easily obtained a temporary Permesso di Soggiorno, which I immediately sent to the shipping company. They grudgingly accepted it and I avoided paying customs.

The next step was to apply with the Commune office for a Certificate of Residence in the Commune. They are open all day on Monday and Friday, but on Tuesday and Wednesday only in the morning. (However, this often changes so check first.) You will find this is typical in Italy: many hours and days when offices are closed and often unpredictably. (The procedures may vary from Commune to Commune and also change from time to time so if you are doing this, try to check in advance.) Before I had a chance to return to the Commune office, though, I received a mysterious form in the mail from the Questura, which I later learned said that I was being denied the Permesso di Soggiorno because I lacked a long term stay visa.

The only way I could obtain the visa was to go back to the US to the Italian Embassy in San Francisco. This process was put on hold.

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Since I had been unable to obtain the Permisso in Italy, I considered going to the US in January, when my ninety-day tourist visa would expire, but I was not yet prepared to go. I decided to go in February, when Gary could work on the bathroom. Since the Visa would expire before then, however, I worried that the Consul might be reluctant to issue the Visa if I had overstayed in Italy. So I made plans to go to Lugano, Switzerland, to get my passport stamped outside the European Union. My idea was to have a mini-holiday, see something beautiful and at the same time, make sure my stay in Italy was legal.

After thinking about the trouble of living in the apartment while the only bathroom was being torn apart and reconstructed, I decided to go to the States in February, to be out during this process. So as to obtain my long-term stay visa, I made plans to remain there for the recommended one month period, which would give me time to obtain my long-term stay visa. Once in San Francisco I copied all of the papers I required, obtained a money order for $94, the cost of the Visa at that time, and obtained a stamped, self-addressed Express Mail envelope for return of my passport. The next day I took the Bay Area Rapid Transit and then the trolley to the Italian Embassy. Once inside, I presented my big packet of information.

The official took the bank and investment account statements, and a contract for a consulting job I had done in Armenia, and proof of property ownership and medical insurance but gave back a letter expressing interest in my consulting services, but not a contract, and my tax returns. He told me to come back on the following Tuesday, much sooner than expected. Since I was going to Spokane on Tuesday, I left the envelope for mailing my passport, which actually arrived in Spokane before I did. One more step out of the way.

Back in Lucca at the end of the month, I again went to the Questura, saying 'manca il visto e qui e il visto,' roughly, that my information was in their database, only the visa was missing and here it is. The clerk accepted it and indicated I should return in two weeks to obtain the Permesso di Soggiorno.

Be warned, though, this process has now changed completely.

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Apparently a packet must be obtained from the Post Office, a complicated form filled out and the packet sent to Rome for processing, a months long process. Probably this new system will result in much more work for immigration consultants. If I were applying now, I would definitely hire one of them. My next step now, after obtaining the Permesso is to apply at the Commune office for my Residence Card and Medical Card, which will be valid for a year, after which I must renew everything. 

The Tuscan Sun Shines
Finally, this apartment project is complete. The new bagno, bathroom, both works well and looks beautiful. In the zona notte, the night zone, the camere di letti, bedrooms, with their spring green walls and complementary bedspreads and wood furniture invite sleep and a pleasant awakening as the sun streams in through the big windows. In the zona giorno, day zone, the sofa in the soggiorno, or living room, is covered with a soft apricot, slightly darker than the walls and is complemented by the blue chairs and the warm oak wood furniture. Throughout, simple sheer curtains in ivory soften the edges. Pictures are hung and art objects placed in strategic locations. As I awake with the morning sun lighting the walls' beautiful colors or in the afternoon watch as the late sun sets aglow the gold and apricot walls and red tile roofs of the nearby buildings, or later, see the moon from the South window, ringed by fluffy clouds, I am satisfied, knowing that here in Tuscany, I have created, with the help of others, a tranquil place for working, relaxing and entertaining. 

During the process, my many faulty assumptions, beliefs and ignorance of many ways of Italy became all too obvious; however my vision remained intact and fortunately I could continue to work toward it, albeit with a different schedule and budget for completion. I was especially lucky to have had the help of Doris and Roberto, both of whom speak Italian and English for addressing the numerous challenges. If you don’t have friends to help who know Italian, though, I recommend hiring someone who does, to coordinate everything. And by sharing this experience with you, I hope to help you avoid some of the pitfalls of buying (and occupying) a home in Italy. 

As I indicated in the beginning, what kept me moving forward through all of the disappointments and frustrations was the vision of the completed project, which remained clear in my mind. This also helped me most of the time to maintain relative serenity and sanity. 

The process of making the apartment comfortable and pleasant required more time and money than I expected. Reflecting upon the process, I realized that it could have been much simpler and less stressful. I should have checked a lot of things first, how things are done here, who to trust, what things cost. 

There is one other very important lesson: the word domani, tomorrow, according to the dictionary, means in practice "sometime in the future whenever we get around to it." Had I checked all these things and still decided to proceed, I could not have anticipated every situation, but at least I would had a much more clear understanding of what to expect. As it was, once into the project, the sunk costs made the option of quitting too costly. 

Lessons Learned
Following is a summary list of the main lessons learned. Some of them probably seem obvious; they do now to me as well. 

1. In general, assumptions are not a good basis for buying property, especially in a foreign country. Examine everything, think about everything carefully. 

2. Learn as much as possible in advance about both the community and neighborhood and make sure they fit your criteria. 

3. Before making an offer, get concrete bids for work needed, but be aware that getting these bids could take a few weeks. 

4. Avoid doing business with crooks or bad people - but I am not sure how to know in advance. In any event, put something in the purchase contract to impose a penalty for failure to vacate or other important provisions. 

5. Obtain a long-term stay visa before coming to Italy to occupy your residence; check in advance as to days and times. 

6. When choosing what to bring, ship at the outset only things known to be needed and appropriate; selling things in Italy, will not be practical. And, if saving money is important, pack and wrap the things yourself that are not easily broken or damaged. 

7. When hiring people to do work, make sure they provide adequate references and that they are supervised, at least until you get to know them. And don't even think about immediately staying in the purchased home if work is needed. 

8. If internet services are essential for either personal or business use, satellite or other wireless service may be worth the additional cost. 

9. Obtain current information about the legal residency requirements and obtain professional help with negotiating them if necessary. 

10. Find a Grapevine, a Doris, a Roberto and a Gary. Without their help, I cannot imagine how I would have managed to settle in Italy. In this, I was extremely lucky. If no willing and able friends are available to assist, paid services are available and seem essential, especially if one lacks language fluency. 

11. Accept reality. Keep in mind that some, perhaps many, things will go wrong – probably more in Italy than in many other countries. After all, this is the land of la dolce vita, the good life, - which does not imply being rigid and workaholic. Everything will take much longer than you ever imagined. People will not want to say no so they will say yes when they don't mean it. They will often not keep appointments; be happy when they come on the day and time they have said. It is rare. Domani really means sometime later, not necessarily tomorrow. Realize that the bureaucracy is intense - in both the public and the private sector, which are quite similar (the private sector was, after all, once public sector). And, accept that things to buy are not easy to find. In the United States and elsewhere in Europe, everything is at our fingertips. Although many things are available here and many of them - such as bathroom fixtures, household appliances and kitchenware much more beautiful than I have seen elsewhere - they may be difficult to find or may never be found. Accept what is; look for another solution if the item is not available. 

12. Keep the vision clearly in mind while continuously evaluating the changing current reality, and when necessary, adjusting the actions. This is the most important key to staying focused and continuing to move toward your beautiful home in Tuscany. 

So, in conclusion, to make the process of buying and occupying a home in Tuscany as stress-free and pleasant as possible, be sure you have a clear vision of what you want. Then, before leaping, try to understand everything about the property and what it will cost to make the necessary changes. Question and verify everything independently; take what people say with a cup of salt -- as anywhere, some people will stretch the truth; no remedies are available for the results of lies and exaggerations. And finally, remember that any assumptions about how things are done based on experience in any other place probably do not apply in Italy. Most important of all, let go of having to have things a certain way; there will be tante sorpresse but they should be at least kept to a reasonable number so as to create and adjust with relative ease. To stay calma, take frequent breaks from the work and relax, enjoy the landscape, the music, the food and the wine and remember why Tuscany is your home of choice. Whatever the stress and strain as you go along, when the project is complete the pain will soon be forgotten and you will have a wonderful home in a wonderful place to enjoy for many years. 

So, in conclusion, to make the process of buying and occupying a home in Tuscany as stress-free and pleasant as possible, be sure you have a clear vision of what you want. Then, before leaping, try to understand everything about the property and what it will cost to make the necessary changes. Question and verify everything independently; take what people say with a cup of salt -- as anywhere, some people will stretch the truth; no remedies are available for the results of lies and exaggerations. And finally, remember that any assumptions about how things are done based on experience in any other place probably do not apply in Italy. Most important of all, let go of having to have things a certain way; there will be tante sorpresse but they should be at least kept to a reasonable number so as to create and adjust with relative ease. To stay calma, take frequent breaks from the work and relax, enjoy the landscape, the music, the food and the wine and remember why Tuscany is your home of choice. 

Whatever the stress and strain as you go along, when the project is complete the pain will soon be forgotten and you will have a wonderful home in a wonderful place to enjoy for many years.

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