April
2007 - The Pride of Africa When travelling in South Africa, there is
a splendid alternative to travel by plane or by car, which will allow you
to experience the splendor of a bygone era while being pampered for 48
hours. Rovos Rail has raised the bar of excellence in luxury railway travel,
not least due to the continued passion and dedication of owner and founder
Rohan Vos. We journeyed from Pretoria to Cape Town on The Pride of Africa.
With the champagne flowing and a small band playing classical music in
a stylish lounge, it is as if we have walked into another century. It is
hard to believe that we are indeed on a train station - but then again,
this is by no means your ordinary train station. We are at Central
Park, Pretoria at the private station of Rovos Rail, the most luxurious
train in the world. We are getting ready to go on a 48 hour journey to
Cape Town.
Next
to us, The Pride of Africa is waiting to take us on the 1600 km through
South Africa to our final destination. After a quick orientation
by Rohan Vos, the owner of Rovos Rail, I am shown to my airconditioned
suite where my luggage has already been placed. The suite is absolutely
stunning with dark wooden panels and big windows ensuring an unobstructed
view of the scenery passing by. Nothing lacks here; there is a double bed,
mini bar, writing desk, and a closet where I find bathrobes, slippers,
a fully stocked toilet kit, and even goggles if should I wish to lean out
of the window and admire the locomotive. The ensuite bathroom is also fully
equipped including a hairdryer, heater, and a shower. The comfort and elegance
of it all makes it hard to comprehend I am on board a train.
The Pride of Africa can carry
72 guests in 20 coaches, many of which date back to the 1920s. The train
has been carefully restored to keep the beautiful Victorian atmosphere.
It consists of a dining car, two
lounge cars, and sleeping cars. At the very end of the train is the observation
car furnished with soft comfortable chairs and sofas. It also has a balcony
so you can sit outside and enjoy the scenery as it passes by. Mobiles and
laptops are only allowed in the privacy of the suites, and there are no
TVs or radios on board.
Guests
come from all over the world to experience a trip, suited even for the
most discerning traveller. As the train starts rolling and picks up speed,
I can feel my pulse drop as the everyday stress disappears. There are no
mobiles ringing, no modems beeping, no noisy TVs or radios broadcasting
the latest news or lack thereof. Instead there is civilized conversations
with the other guests, elegant dinners followed by drinks in the lounge
or perhaps a quiet moment to read a book or write a postcard.
The modern world seems to have
vanished to another planet. The constantly changing South African landscape
is slowly passing by outside, while inside guests are enjoying each
others company and forming new friendships. What a perfect way to travel.
Before I know it, dinner is being
announced by a gong, and I join the other guests in the charming dinning
car bursting with Victorian atmosphere with its dark wooded pillars and
elegantly set small tables. You change for dinne onboard Rovos Rail. The
dress code for dinner is formal with a minimum requirement of collar and
tie. It fits the elegant atmosphere and service and anything less would
seem out of place. Particularly the ladies seem to enjoy the occasion to
dress up and of course the chance to flash that new diamond necklace.
On
the menu this evening I find; gnocchi with wild mushroom and saffron, waterblommetjie
soup, stuffed ostrich fillet with blue cheese and vodka sauce, and for
dessert cape brandy pudding - truly a meal fit for a King or a Queen. For
dinner and lunch there is usually a starter, then a choice of fish, meat
or vegetarian dishes, followed by dessert all complemented by excellent
South African wines.
For breakfast there is a selection
of cold meats, croissants, pastries, fresh fruit, yogurts and cereals as
well as dishes cooked to order. After dinner, it is off to the bar for
nightcaps and more chatting with the other guests before it is time to
turn in. Sleeping onboard the train is wonderful.
The train travels at slow speed rocking
you to sleep like one would an infant. Fortunately, I am not a light sleeper,
so I will not need the earplugs that are provided. I quickly fall into
a deep sleep and wake up the next morning completely rested.
There are two excursions along our
way to Cape Town; the first stop is in Kimberley. Here we go on a guided
bus tour of the town, followed by a trip to The Big Hole, a former diamond
mine and the biggest man made excavation in the world. We have the opportunity
to visit themuseum of the old mining town, and shop for diamonds at heavily
discounted rates.
The next morning, we stop at Whitehill
where the early birds who feel they lack a little exercise can disembark
the train and walk or jog the 5 km. to Matjiesfontein, where the train
stops again. Here you can have a stroll through the historic settlement
and visit the museum before or after having breakfast.
48 hours might sound like a long
time to be on a train, but on a train as extraordinary as Rovos Rail, the
hours fly by all too quickly and you wish you had taken a longer journey.
The sight of Table Mountain lets
us know that the journey is coming to an end. It has been a wonderful trip,
but it is time to move on. So we say goodbye to our new friends and the
Rovos Rail staff on the station in Cape Town with the hopes of seing them
all again soon.