April 2007
The Pride of Africa
When travelling in South Africa, there is a splendid alternative
to travel by plane or by car, which will allow you to
experience the splendor of a bygone era while being pampered
for 48 hours. Rovos Rail has raised the bar of excellence in
luxury railway travel, not least due to the continued passion and
dedication of owner and founder Rohan Vos. We journeyed from
Pretoria to Cape Town on The Pride of Africa.
 With the champagne flowing and a small band playing classical music in a stylish lounge, it is as if we have walked into another century. It is hard to believe that we are indeed on a train station - but then again, this is by no means your ordinary train station. We are at Central Park, Pretoria at the private station of Rovos Rail, the most luxurious train in the world. We are getting ready to go on a 48 hour journey to Cape Town. Next to us, The Pride of Africa is waiting to take us on the 1600 km through South Africa to our final destination.
After a quick orientation by Rohan Vos, the owner of Rovos Rail, I am shown to my airconditioned suite where my luggage has already been placed. The suite is absolutely stunning with dark wooden panels and big windows ensuring an unobstructed view of the scenery passing by.
Nothing lacks here; there is a double bed, mini bar, writing desk, and a closet where I find bathrobes, slippers, a fully stocked toilet kit, and even goggles if should I wish to lean out of the window and admire the locomotive. The ensuite bathroom is also fully equipped including a
hairdryer, heater, and a shower. The comfort and elegance of it all makes it hard to comprehend I am on board a train.
The Pride of Africa can carry 72 guests in 20 coaches, many of which date back to the 1920s. The train has been carefully restored to
keep the beautiful Victorian atmosphere. It consists of a dining car, two lounge cars, and sleeping cars. At the very end of the train is the
observation car furnished with soft comfortable chairs and sofas. It also has a balcony so you can sit outside and enjoy the scenery as it passes by. Mobiles and laptops are only allowed in the privacy of the suites, and there are no TVs or radios on board. Guests come from all over the world to experience a trip, suited even for the most discerning traveller.
As the train starts rolling and picks up speed, I can feel my pulse drop as the everyday stress disappears. There are no mobiles ringing, no modems beeping, no noisy TVs or radios broadcasting the latest news or lack thereof. Instead there is civilized conversations with the other guests, elegant dinners followed by drinks in the lounge or perhaps a quiet moment to read a book or write a postcard. The modern world seems to have vanished to another planet. The constantly changing South African landscape is slowly passing by outside, while inside guests are enjoying each others’ company and forming new friendships. What a perfect way to travel.
Before I know it, dinner is being announced by a gong, and I join the other guests in the charming dinning car bursting with Victorian
atmosphere with its dark wooded pillars and elegantly set small tables. You change for dinne onboard Rovos Rail. The dress code for dinner
is formal with a minimum requirement of collar and tie. It fits the elegant atmosphere and service and anything less would seem out of place. Particularly the ladies seem to enjoy the occasion to dress up and of course the chance to flash that new diamond necklace.
On the menu this evening I find; gnocchi with
wild mushroom and saffron, waterblommetjie soup, stuffed ostrich fillet with blue cheese and vodka sauce, and for dessert cape brandy pudding - truly a meal fit for a King or a Queen. For dinner and lunch there is usually a starter, then a choice of fish, meat or vegetarian dishes, followed by dessert all complemented by excellent South African wines. For breakfast there is a selection of cold meats, croissants, pastries, fresh fruit, yogurts and cereals as well as dishes cooked to order.
After dinner, it is off to the bar for nightcaps and more chatting with the other guests before it is time to turn in. Sleeping onboard the train is wonderful. The train travels at slow speed rocking you to sleep like one would an infant. Fortunately, I am not a light sleeper, so I will not need the earplugs that are provided. I quickly fall into a deep sleep and wake up the next morning completely rested.
There are two excursions along our way to Cape Town; the first stop is in Kimberley. Here we go on a guided bus tour of the town, followed
by a trip to “The Big Hole”, a former diamond mine and the biggest man made excavation in the world. We have the opportunity to visit the
museum of the old mining town, and shop for diamonds at heavily discounted rates.
The next morning, we stop at Whitehill where the early birds who feel they lack a little exercise can disembark the train and walk or jog the 5 km. to Matjiesfontein, where the train stops again. Here you can have a stroll through the historic settlement and visit the museum before
or after having breakfast.
48 hours might sound like a long time to be on a train, but on a train as extraordinary as Rovos Rail, the hours fly by all too quickly and
you wish you had taken a longer journey.
The sight of Table Mountain lets us know that the journey is coming to an end. It has been a wonderful trip, but it is time to move on. So we
say goodbye to our new friends and the Rovos Rail staff on the station in Cape Town with the hopes of seing them all again soon.
This article reprinted with kind permission by Deluxe Traveller
www.deluxetraveller.com The author can be contacted at escape@deluxetraveller.com |
