Copan
Ruinas, Honduras: Residing in a Tourist Town
By Elizabeth
Nutter-Valladares
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February 2007
Copan
Ruinas, Honduras is a village that is approximately 12 km from the Guatemalan
border in Honduras' Western Highlands. There are 10,000 people living
in the region and outlying aldeas (small villages) with 5,000 of these
inhabitants living in the village itself. There are fewer than 40
foreigners who live here full time. The region is most famous
for the the Maya Ruins for which it is named which attract around 200,000
visitors a year (the definition of the word "Copan" is a bridge between
two places, it is also believed to have been named after a Mayan indian
chief named Copan Galeal, but there is no recorded history of this).
Copan Ruinas,
however, has long had a reputation as one of the best coffee producing
regions in the world. Copan Ruinas is now becoming known more and
more for the coffee that grows in the outlying plantations and the coffee
tourism it is starting to attract, as well as the Ruins.
Living in this
mountain village and tourist area for 16 years as a "local" has been wonderful
and was a happy surpise as when I arrived here to take Spanish Lessons
at the then brand new Spanish School I absolutely fell in love with the
mist covered highlands and then fell in love with a wonderful Honduran
Restaurant Owner/Tour Guide, got married, and stayed. These events
all happened within a six week period and sixteen years later it
is all still magic.
My two story
home whose veranda looks out toward the sunset every day cost me 5000 dollars
and has been my "nest" for 15 years. I often wonder how much it would
take to reproduce this cottage in the United States with it's flagstone
paths, antique wood floors, and hand thrown tile roof. I think the
view alone would probably be cost prohibitive for me and even with the
inconveniences of sometimes losing electrical power, at times not having
water (build a larger holding tank) the property is paid for and I, my
husband, and 3 labrador retrievers, live on about $250 a month for food,
utilities and telephone. This leaves a lot of left over for luxuries,
if I so desire.
Living here
however, has been a lesson in patience. It is an experience that
continues to fascinate me, even after all these years. It has made
me more assertive, bilingual, artistic and more imaginative than I ever
would have been living anywhere else.
Dealing with
and respecting cultural differences has been one of the more challenging
aspects of living abroad, especially in a developing nation. If you
can remember that you are the guest, basically, and Hondurans, especially
those from the mountains, have their own pace, then this mountain village
has unlimited possibilities for full time residents. Anyone whose
desire to live in an area that is not jaded by overdevelopment and will
willingly put up with a few inconveniences then this valley and Copan Ruinas
is definitely a viable option. Trade offs for these few inconveniences
are being able to sip locally grown, hand toasted, coffee on a veranda
in one of the most breathtakingly beautiful, mystically enshrouded, mountainous
regions of the world. Copan Ruinas as a lifestyle should really be
investigated.
Getting here,
is easy, staying here if you are retired and have an monthly income is
also easy. Building up and maintaining a life may be a little more
challenging if you need to live on the income you produce here, but it
can be done especially if you are very creative. This of course is
the reason some of us listen to the sound of a different drummer now isn't
it? Residing in these western highlands and watching the mist dance
across the mountain ridges every morning has never ceased to amaze me that
I actually live and work here.
Transportation
You can buy
a car, but why? There are several National bus lines, mostly luxury,
which service this area. They leave all day and return from the larger
areas all day. The cost is $4 to get to the city of San Pedro
Sula (3 hours). If you want to go to the capital city of Honduras
(Tegucigalpa) it will cost about $25 on the Luxury bus and you get a movie
or two. This is a really nice way to travel. You can be anywhere
in the country or in another country within hours. |
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Honduras -- are, really, what enticed us to invest here.
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A Leisurely, Luxurious, Affordable
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water that feels like velvet on the skin… walk along the white sand and
scoop up shells, adding to a collection already spilling onto the patio
table... Experiences like those -- a daily pleasure on Roatan, Honduras
-- are, really, what enticed us to invest here. |
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Getting around
town is even easier, you walk, the main downtown being four blocks square
with everything you need; banks, markets, restaurants, etc. If walking
is an issue and you don't want to haul all those groceries there are "taxi
motos" or tuk tuks which have recently become popular here. They
will take you anywhere in the village for 25 cents. If you are really
flush, you can hire a car and a driver for $100 to take you to San Pedro
Sula and bring you back.
Rentals
There are
apartments and houses tucked away all over the village. While there
are no real real estate offices most locals will point you in the right
direction. Within the city limits a house will rent for anywhere
from $80 to $300 (3 bedrooms, 3 baths, maid service, laundry hookups, garage
area, etc).
Room and Board
(3 homecooked meals a day) in a modern furnished room will go for about
$200 or less per month. Note that these are the higher end places,
there are many many houses and rooms available for less, it is a matter
of looking around. If you really want to be ambitious, you can actually
rent a whole hotel,,, instant business!!!
Two small outlying
towns, one 8 km away (Santa Rita) and the other 4 km (Osteman) have property
and rentals as well as undeveloped lots for sale or rent for much less.
There are also houses available in the coffee areas outside of town toward
Seisasmill with higher altitudes and cooler temperatures.
My
suggestion to people who come here and immediately fall in love with the
place is to rent for around six months to a year and get a feel for what
they want and go from there. This is also a very good idea just to
see if you really like it here!!! Copan Ruinas, although not overrun
with travelers, does cater to them, but that makes it all the more appealing
to full time residents as there are restaurants, spanish schools, museums,
telephones, laundry facilities, etc., etc., that normally would not be
available in other villages of developing nations. You're roughing
it, but not really.
Real Estate
Availability
Copan Ruinas'
real estate and its surrounding area is one of the fastest growing and
hottest commodities in the Country, but it comes expensively, as most people
are speculating on real estate right now. This region, because of
low or nonexistant crime rate (The larger cities in Honduras as with any
large cities anywhere in the world, have an ongoing fight with crime, this
region so far seems to be exempt, and the Hondurans who operate tourist
attractions and businesses here will keep it that way because of their
investments here, it pays to protect your investment). Keeping foreigners
safe only enhances the attraction to this area and it's good business.
Hot properties at a good price are in high demand, and Honduran families
who have lived here for generations sometimes demand U.S. prices because
their houses have been passed down through the generations. This
can make it tricky buying real estate as several family members may be
on the title for one piece of property. The properties are extremely
negotiable. It can be done and believe me, there are
bargains to be had in this village (I paid $5000 dollars for my house sitting
on 1/2 acre of property) .
Copan Ruinas,
within the village, has properties on the market ranging from lots for
$4,000 to two acre Mountain Estates, fully operational income producing
Bed and Breakfasts, and 10 room hotels for sale at prices of $100,000 and
$500,000. Prices as a whole may be higher here than in the rest of
the country, but the value continues to climb even after purchase.
There is also built in infrastructure on most of the properties with tanks,
generators, maids quarters, etc., which can take out some of the "surprises"
of living in a developing nation (power outages happen...and they have
been happening as long as I've lived here, and that includes all of the
surrounding countries, it's just a fact of life and you plan for it)
If the properties are to be developed into anything to do with travel or
tourism, there are government incentives and tax credits available for
residents, investors, as well as foreigners that go along with the purchase
as long as all of the paper work is in order. All real estate purchases
need to be and should be looked over by an attorney before you buy.
Honduras ratified its border law which prevented foreign ownership of land
so close to borders and beaches (12 km from Guatemala) so that private
investors and fulltime residents could be attracted. With the stability
of the Honduran Goverment, the travelers who sometimes become full time
residents, Copan Ruinas is a good investment at any time.
Real Estate
Tips
A tip for
anyone who is buying property anywhere in Honduras is to get the name of
the law firm that the local banks use. As these law firms are stricter
in dealing with loans on properties, they make very sure everything is
in order before the last paper is signed. Find out who their representatives
are and get in touch and show them where and what you are buying before
you put any money down. It is worth the small consulting fee (maybe
$50 to $100) to make sure that the property you are looking at actually
has papers on it. There have been more than one case of where the
property owners sell the properties several times. Let the buyer
beware as with My suggestion to people who come here and immediately fall
in love with the place is to rent for around six months to a year and get
a feel for what they want and go from there. This is also a very
good idea just to see if you really like it here!!! Copan Ruinas,
although not overrun with travelers, does cater to them, but that makes
it all the more appealing to full time residents as there are restaurants,
spanish schools, museums, telephones, laundry facilities, etc., etc., that
normally would not be available in other villages of developing nations.
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Climate
The average
year round temperature is usually in the 80's (farenheit) with the hottest
month being in March and April. The rainy season brings relief from
this heat however and May through October brings the heavy rains
(which usually last maybe an hour or more in the afternoon and sometimes
again at night, not all day like some people think) and then the misty
rains which start in October through December that make the soil in the
coffee plantations so rich. These rains are responsible for the rich
tropical foliage that cover the mountains that surround the village.
There are hundreds of species of plants in the mountains that surround
the village.
Job opportunities/Jobs/Starting
a Business
In the 16
years I have been here I have been a bartender, restaurant owner, established
the first laundromat, waitress, bookshop owner, coffeeshop owner and wife
as well as a consultant and cheerleader for all the benefits of living
in this mountain village. I love it here, the lifestyle is healthy,
the air is clean, and the people are very friendly. The local bilingual
grade school (Mayatan) is always looking for qualified teachers and hires
from all over the world. Since the language they teach in is English,
you do not have to be bilingual or even have to know Spanish.
Many local
restaurants are always on the lookout for seasonal help and there are even
courses that can be taken to become a member of the guide association at
the Ruinas.
If you arrive
and see a niche in the market that you would like to fill, starting a business
here is very easy. The local Municipality will issue a work permit
which is available through their offices. It is good for one year
and can be renewed each year. It is usually issued within 2 weeks
unless you are opening a business that sells liquor and then it is presented
in front of the city council. They will also drop off tax papers
when the time comes on which you will declare your income (in your business)
tax, sign taxes, liquor taxes, and pay for garbage pick up all at the same
time. Depending on what your business generates, taxes per year may
be around $500 (that is for a very high end restaurant) the average is
about $65.00.
There is always
a business for sale, since Copan Ruinas has the highest tourist influx
in the country, they are often turnkey operations, but not that many come
on the market.
Residency
Copan Ruinas
usually enforces immigration laws with travelers who arrive on tourist
visas fall in love with the place (as I did) and start to work here.
As with any visa you get anywhere in the world it usually states that you
cannot be employed. It doesn't keep that many people from helping
out though but if you are planning on long term living here or buying real
estate and working here, you need to establish residency. Why?
Because if there is any question on real estate dealings, business problems,
or anything else that come up while you are living here full time, the
U.S. Embassy or any Embassy will not help out unless you are a full time
resident of Honduras.
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Establishing residency
is not that difficult, all information can be obtained from the Honduran
Embassy in your own country before arriving or from the Immigration Department
in San Pedro Sula after arriving. It will usually cost around $300
to get residency but may have additional fees along the way. I ended
up paying a total cost of$1000 over a one year period of time, which no
matter what they say, it will usually take one year. It is up to
you if you want to take "short cuts" they usually don't work and end up
more expensive in the long run. As with Real Estate Attorneys, reputable
immigration attorneys can be recommended through any Embassy. You
can also establish residency by marrying a Honduran, but you will still
have to file papers, and be sure that if you are marrying for convenience,
they aren't married to someone else!!! That however, is a whole different
subject!!!
Living Here
Full Time
Why start
a business or be an employee when you can become the lord and master or
mistress of your property. The tropical paradise that is Copan Ruinas,
Honduras can be in your own front or backyard and gardening here is sheer
pleasure, as everything grows, and fast!!!! It is also a birdwatchers
paradise with over 300 species in the Copan Ruinas valley alone.
The wild parrots which fly overhead in the evening on their way to roost
are and incredible site with their jade wings fluttering in the sunset!
Copan Ruinas has worldclass birdwatching guides here) How about a coffee
finca owner (we have several "expats" who have coffee fincas).
Although prices
here may be a little higher, you can live in this village in EXTREME COMFORT
on about $500 or much less a month. I am talking about living expenses
here, and that's not skimping, some examples of prices are:
Maid $3/day
Gardener $3.50/day
Bottle of
really good Chilean Wine $3
Cigarettes
$1.20
Pound of locally
made very fresh cheese $1
3 freshly
baked hand made corn tortillas 5 cents
6 handmade
flour tortillas (big ones) 25 cents
The list could
go on and on, you can have gourmet dining every nite if you so desire.
Medical
Services and Clinics
Copan Ruinas
is in the mountains, but not so isolated that you can not be into a large
city within about 3 hours. The Panamerican highway passes behind the village
and the roads are paved and maintained and very good. Honduras has
the best road system in Central America. Guatemala City if you want
to cross the border (220 km) and San Pedro Sula, Honduras (167 km)
if you want to stay in country are easily accessible and loaded with clinics
of all kinds, and they are not expensive. You are in 45 minutes of
fully equipped hospitals in Chiquimoula, Guatemala. With the new
open border policy all of the Central American Countries are accesible,
stopping and checking cars at borders is a thing of the past and you can
exit the country at will (you will need to stop and stamp your passport,
residency in Honduras doesn't mean residency in Guatemala so they want
to know when you leave etc.)
If you prefer
to stay in country you can be in San Pedro Sula within three hours.
San Pedro Sula, Tegucigalpa, and La Ceiba, as well as Puerto Cortes have
top of the line medical facilities, and very inexpensive. A four
day stay in a clinic for an emergency hysterectomy cost me $1,200, that
included consultations, anaesthesology, surgery, the surgeon, the room
(private room w/tv, although I wasn't really into tv at that time), and
the follow up.
After breaking
my leg this year I went to Chiquimoula, Guatemala for an xray ($10) and
then since there was no compound fracture was driven to San Pedro Sula
where the leg was casted for nothing because I brought my own xrays and
they didn't have to redo them)
Ambulance
service is $75/ because gasoline here is expensive too! There are
eight local clinics and laboratories and four well stocked Pharmacies.
All these local facilities have top of the line Doctors who run them, many
bilingual.
A brand new
dental clinic just opened here with full services including whitening,
extractions, bridges, everything for under $25 depending of course on what
you need. A cleaning is less than $20.
As you can
see, a full time residency in Copan Ruinas, Honduras is a no brainer, I
hope that many of you will read this and come a little further south and
Mexico and Guatemala. Although both of these countries are excellent
choices for the Escape lifestyle, why not come and check us out before
you decide! Copan Ruinas, Honduras, is an alternative lifestyle that
is rich in culture, history and a wonderful place to call home.
Stay here a
lifetime, you will be so glad you did!!!
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