Waterfalls
and Crocodiles In Australia's Top End
By Dawnelle
Salant
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January 2007
Australia’s
Northern Territory has a big reputation to live up to. Having
spent a year travelling the entire continent and hearing nothing but good
things about the Top End and its numerous National Parks, I decided to
save this part of the huge country until last. Now that I was here,
I could hardly wait to see what all the fuss was about. My mother
had joined me for this part of my trip, and admittedly, we were both slightly
nervous about the five day tour I had booked, as it involved camping.
But the Top
End’s highlights are all about nature, and there is truly no better way
to experience the Northern Territory’s National Parks than to immerse yourself
in them. Adventure Tour’s 5 Day Top End Safari seemed to be the perfect
way to explore this highly praised portion of the country. I’d travelled
with Adventure Tours before and liked everything about them; from their
prices, tour guides and itineraries to their small group philosophy.
Day One
We meet the
tour group in Darwin very early one sunny morning in July. Immediately,
any fears my mother had about being “the oldest one” on the tour are put
to rest. Our group consists mainly of older couples near my mom’s
age, a single gray haired lady travelling on her own, and only three people
who are younger than my 31 years of age. Celia, our energetic (even
at 6 a.m.) tour guide, rounds the group onto the bus and talks nearly the
whole way to Litchfield National Park.
Our first stop
is Florence Falls and Celia makes sure we have our swimsuits on before
we start the short hike to the first of many waterfalls. Even though
it’s winter in Australia in July, the heat up here rivals any Canadian
summer I’ve experienced. As we walk down the rocky path, sweat drips
down my forehead, but I don’t mind; this is my kind of winter.
I can hear
the falls roaring already, and soon enough we arrive at a viewpoint.
I’m standing taller than the top of the falls and can see the water pouring
over the reddish rocks and crashing into a pool of still water about ten
stories down. Besides this one open spot, the rest of the area seems
to be covered in trees. When we arrive at the waterfall, I postpone
any photo taking until I can cool off. The pool at the bottom of
the falls is surrounded by slippery rocks, but everyone in our groups makes
it into the chilly water for a dip. I swim up to the base of the
falls and feel its spray on my face.
By the time
we return to the bus, I’m hot and sweaty again, and pleased to hear Celia
tell us that the next falls aren’t far off. Within minutes we arrive
at Burley Rock Falls, and although they are not as tall and powerful as
Florence Falls, they are beautiful in a different kind of way. Burley
Rock Falls is a series of small waterfalls cascading over rocks that cover
a gently sloping hill. Every few metres the land flattens out and
the waterfalls fill rock pools before flowing down the next slope.
We spend about an hour exploring the pools of deliciously chilled water
before Celia leads us back to the bus.
After lunch
we have a longer drive to our afternoon activity - crocodile spotting on
the Mary River Wetlands. When we arrive, I note the “Caution, Crocodiles”
signs posted near the water. As we climb onto the flat, metal boat,
I eye the water cautiously, but my fear doesn’t stop me from taking a seat
at the edge of the boat: I just make sure I keep my arms and legs
safely inside!
As we glide
along the thick stretch of calm river, the guide fills us in on the differences
between saltwater crocodiles or salties, and freshwater crocs, or freshies.
All I really need to know is that salties are much bigger and more dangerous,
whereas freshies, apparently, don’t attack humans. Still….
Not
long after we leave the dock, the first saltwater crocodile is spotted
sunning itself on the river’s edge. I can barely make out the five
foot long shape amongst the thick greenery that lines the river, but our
guide sees it immediately. He brings the boat closer and all the
tourists stand up with a collective, “Ah!” Before we get too close, the
croc senses our presence and slips into the water without a sound.
As we drift down the river, a group of wallabies near the water attracts
our attention. A crocodile sleeps nearby, and I wonder briefly if
crocodiles eat wallabies. Within seconds, a pure white egret lands within
feet of the crocodile’s mouth, and National Geographic unfolds right before
our eyes as the croc jumps up and snaps at the bird. He misses, but
to see that sort of action in the wild has our hearts pumping nonetheless.
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South
Molle Island – The Affordable Whitsunday Getaway
The Whitsundays
have the additional reputation as one of the more pricey places to stay
along Australia’s East Coast. Celebrities such as Julia Roberts and George
Harrison have homes in the area, and Hamilton Island boasts a luxurious
five star resort. But if you’re like most vacationers and not traveling
on an A-list budget, South Molle Island is the perfect place to take in
all that the Whitsundays have to offer, without giving up too many luxuries.
Australia
Property Buying Process and Investment Facts
Income and
capital gains derived from property owned in Australia has to be reported
to the Australian taxation authorities but there are certain incentives
in place for overseas property investors to reduce or negate their taxation
liability.
Australia:
Wilson's Promontory
Australia
has no shortage of national parks providing magnificent scenery. When it
comes to wildlife, however, one stands out from the rest – Wilson’s Promontory
National Park. Referred to as The Prom, this national park protects 50,000
hectares of diverse landscape; untouched beaches, swamps and rainforest. |
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Over the course
of our two hour cruise, we spot approximately ten crocodiles in total,
both salties and freshies. The birdlife is abundant here as well, and we
see jabirus – colourful, tall storks, rufus night herons, cockatoos, more
egrets and white bellied sea eagles. We pull back up to the dock
just as the sun is casting an orange glow over the wetlands.
We arrive at
our campsite in the dark, but I’m pleasantly surprised to find a screened-in
eating area, proper bathrooms and tents that far surpassed my camping expectations.
Each tent is built on a wooden platform with two bunks on each side.
There’s not much room, but I’m quite happy to be sleeping on a hard surface,
up and away from any creepy crawlies, because let’s face it, Australia
has plenty of those.
Day Two
Day two of
the tour finds us on the road again, heading straight into the heart of
Kakadu National Park. A World Heritage Area, Kakadu National Park
is one of the rare areas that have been listed for both cultural and natural
heritage. Rare plants and animals, and protected habitats form the
basis for the natural heritage listing. The cultural aspect comes
mainly from the presence of Aboriginal rock art. The National Park
is home to one of the best and most extensive collections of rock art in
the world.
Our first stop
is the Ubirr Rock Paintings. We walk for about five minutes before
reaching the first site. A huge cliff to our right is covered with
brown, red and orange markings. They look primitive, but their presence
attests to the intelligence of their creators. As we stand under
the shade of a single tree, Celia points out hidden meanings in the drawings
that would have completely escaped my eyes.
She tells us
that the best way to date the drawings is by what they represent.
She points to one picture of a man with his hands in his pockets and a
painting of a ship, and explains that these drawings were completed after
the Aboriginals had contact with white men. Another representation
of the extinct Tasmanian Tiger or Thylacine, dates the paining to at least
4000 years ago when these animals still roamed this part of the country.
We walk for
about ninety minutes, stopping at other art sites, and seeing detailed
drawings of turtles, wallaroos and fish. A short climb brings us
to rocky lookout that gives us unbeatable views of the Nardab floodplain.
It’s the dry season, so there isn’t much water left, and as far as my eyes
can see, grass of the greenest shade covers the land. Celia tells
us that part of Crocodile Dundee was filmed here, and I make a mental note
to rent the movie when I get home.
We pay a quick
visit to the Bowali Visitor Center which sheds even more light on the Aboriginal
people who have inhabited the area for thousands of years, their way of
life and how they live off the land. And then it’s time to do a bit
more of exploring on our own. The walk to the Barramundi Gorge Plunge
Pools that afternoon is the toughest yet, but the views at the top are
worth it. We walk along the lip of a small gorge, with little waterfalls
and perfectly shaped swimming pools beckoning us from the bottom.
The climb down is treacherous in my bikini and bare feet, but the cool
water makes it worth my while.
Because the
water is so deep here, cliff jumping is safe. I watch the braver
ones jump about five metres into the deep pools, but decide to give them
a miss. Just to prove to myself that I’m not a complete wimp, I scramble
up to the smallest ledge and contemplate jumping into the tiny, dark pool.
The problem here is not the jump – it’s only about two metres, but getting
out might prove to be difficult. The pool is completely enclosed
by rock, and to get out, I’ll have to swim down about two metres, and swim
out through a hole in the wall.
I watch four
people jump and exit effortlessly, and decide to jump before I lose my
nerve. That’s the easy part. Once I’m in the pool, I can see
only the sky and the two poor souls who will have to coach me out of my
watery prison. “Stick your feet down along the far wall, you should be
able to feel the hole,” Chris, one of the younger men on our tour, advises.
“I can’t feel
anything!” I yell back, thinking that if the hole is farther down than
I am tall, we’re in big trouble. Chris’s next advice is to swim as
far down as I can and open my eyes. He’s positive I’ll see the big
patch of light and be able to swim through, but by this time I’m panicking
and all I get is a big lungful of water. I can hear Celia and some
of the others hollering from the opposite side “Are you okay? Do you want
us to come and get you?”
No, I want
to be able to get out myself. I’m a certified scuba diver, and a
bone fide water lover. I am not about to get rescued from a tiny
pool. Chris jumps in with me, and we swim down together, where I
finally manage to open my eyes and see the patch of light he was talking
about; its there, just a lot deeper than I thought. I take a huge
breath of air, swim down with all my might and head for the light.
Mere seconds later, I pop out the other side and am greeted by a round
of applause. We spend some time lounging in the pools and soaking
up the sun before heading back to camp for an early night. On the
way, we stop at Yellow Waters to watch the sunset. It goes down in
history as one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. Egrets
fly across the orange sky as the calm water ripples from the batting of
their wings. No one speaks until the sun has disappeared below the
horizon.
Day Three
Australia’s
Top End really has only two seasons; wet and dry. The best time to
visit Kakadu is during the dry season, which runs roughly from May to October.
On the way to our first waterfall, in a 4WD vehicle extraordinaire, Celia
tells us that the wet season has run late this year, which is actually
good for us. She stops talking for a few minutes as she maneuvers
the 4WD through a puddle of water covering part of the sand road; the water
is so high that we have to lift our feet as it starts slopping in through
the doors. This is one of the disadvantages of extra water in the
dry season, but when we arrive at Twin Falls, one of the most famous waterfalls
within Kakadu, the advantage of the extra water is obvious.
We’re standing
in a valley completely surrounded by rock cliffs. A river runs to
the right, complete with the usual signs warning of crocodiles in the area,
and directly in front of us is Twin Falls. The top of the waterfall
is so high that I have to tilt my head back to see where the water starts
its rapid descent. Two separate streams of water cascade down the
black rock, but the water is almost transparent white as it tumbles down
into the river below. Where the other falls had thick torrents of
water, Twin Falls has a thinner, spread out flow of water, making it seem
more delicate than the others.
After another
rocky ride in the 4WD, we arrive at the other set of famous falls within
the park, Jim Jim Falls. Here, we get the chance to do some bouldering
– scrambling over huge boulders that line a croc infested river.
Our first view of Jim Jim Falls comes just minutes into the walk.
We walk out onto a big rock platform and snap away like the tourists that
we are. In the distance, a semi-circle of tall rock cliffs surrounded
by green forest is bisected by two powerful bursts of water. The
thick spouts of water rush over the red rock and land in a huge pool of
water. When we arrive at the falls, I decide to go in for a quick
dip. This turns out to be the coldest water I have ever stepped foot
in, and I make it more of a very quick splash that a fully-fledged dip.
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That evening,
on our drive to the campsite at Gunlom Falls, Celia slams on the brakes
and runs out the door of the bus yelling, “There’s a huge snake on the
side of the road!” I’m the next one out, running along the dusty road,
but when Celia stops and points to something moving in the grass much too
close to me, I rethink my actions. “It’s only a python,” she says. “They’re
not poisonous.” I move a bit closer and see the huge snake, easily five
feet long, lying in the grass. It doesn’t like an audience however,
and slithers off into the grass.
Coincidentally,
this is night we get to sleep under the stars. There are no tents
at Gunlom Falls, so we get to sleep in swags. A swag is basically
a one-man tent with a built in mattress . A canvas cover zips over your
sleeping bag to keep you warm and dry. It’s
really quite comfortable. But the best part is the stars. As we lay
around the campfire that night, all tucked up in our swags, I don’t even
want to close my eyes and sleep. The stars are so bright and look
so close and I know they’re better than any dreams I might have.
I even forget about snakes.
Day Four
In the morning,
we hike up to Gunlom Falls. We swim across the small pool and lean
against the rock wall where the waterfall gently massages our backs.
From where we sit, we can see the water drop off the cliff and disappear
out of view. After a long drive, we finally arrive at our destination
for the day; Katherine Gorge. After lunch at a picnic table surround by
kookaburras, honey eaters and huge, soaring kites, we embark upon another
cruise. As we glide down the river, the reddish walls of the gorge
surround us, providing a passageway into the unknown. It’s stunning.
Day Five
On our last
morning, I decide to take part in one of the optional parts of the tour
–
a helicopter ride over Katherine Gorge. On the boat, we were only
able to see two of the 13 gorges, but the helicopter takes you to the top
of the 13th gorge. Before we get in, we have to decide if we want
the doors on or off. In hopes of getting better pictures, I opt for
doors off, while some of the others want theirs on.
As soon as
we take off, I’m accosted by the wind. I mentally curse myself for
my decision, but once I get used to my skin, hair and clothing flapping
in the forceful wind, I’m glad of my choice. I have incredible views
of the 13 gorges. From up here, I can see how the river has gouged
out the long gorge, and the cliff walls which looked so big from the boat,
look miniscule from up here. The pilot swoops down for a closer look
at some water buffalo running wild on the plains, and gives us a closer
look at a waterfall on the way back. This ride offers a much more
comprehensive view of Katherine Gorge, and even though I’m tremendously
wind swept and slightly trembling from fear of falling out of the helicopter,
I’ve enjoyed every second of it.
On the way
back to Darwin, we stop at Edith Falls for a final swim. I luxuriate
in the cold water as I know it will be a long time before I’m swimming
in the midst of one of the world’s most renowned National Parks.
Still, that doesn’t stop us from heading straight to the Best Western on
our arrival in Darwin.
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