Most people have no idea where Belarus is; for them, it’s more a case of Bela-where? Simply put, it’s sandwiched between Poland and Russia, north of Ukraine and south of Lithuania. A trip to Belarus is far more than just another Eastern European retreat though; it’s a journey back in time, about fifty years to be precise. The capital, Minsk, was designed by Stalin to be his ideal model town, and lauded as a Soviet Hero City for its suffering during World War Two;  it’s unique in many ways. Bombed to oblivion in the 1940s, it was completely rebuilt in the 50s – with wide tree lined avenues, grand colonnaded facades and plenty of parkland. The architecture is impressively Soviet with hammers and sickles emblazoned at every turn.  It’s not just Minsk’s appearance that harks back to a bygone age. Despite gaining independence in 1991, the country is still largely state run – along Soviet lines. Accordingly, most buildings still have the same interior decor, plumbing and electrical cabling they had in the 60s. When you walk into some cafes, you get the feeling that neither the menu nor the staff have changed since then either. In others, ageing ‘businessmen’ settle matters over carafes of vodka while their entourage of dolly birds pick disinterestedly at small plates of salad and adjust their skimpy outfits.  Whatever may be happening behind the scenes, the outward face of Belarus is youthful, energetic and optimistic. Young people are encouraged to pursue every sport going: from ski jumping and ice-skating to wrestling and horse-riding.  Huge posters adorn the city, featuring young people striding forward into the future – a smile on their faces and a song in their hearts. That song, naturally, would also be Belarusian. State legislation mandates that 85% of all radio airtime should be dedicated to local music.  Most Belarusians don’t get the chance to travel extensively (a trip to Ukraine’s Black Sea is the furthest most go) so few have much idea of what the wider world holds. However, perhaps this is one of things that lends Belarus its charm.  People here aren’t tainted by the modern malaise of materialism; they still enjoy life’s simple pleasures – such as visiting their country dacha. The latter tends to be a small wooden house, only inhabitable during the summer, with a vegetable patch to tend and, perhaps, a few chickens. If you spend any time at all in this delightful country, you’re sure to be invited along to a dacha by a new friend. Since you’ll be a guest, you’ll have the honour of sitting relaxing while those around you bustle about in weeding and getting a meal ready. Undoubtedly, shashlik will be marinating ready for the BBQ. These are skewered kebabs, usually made from pork. They hail from Georgia originally but have been adopted with gusto in Belarus – simply because they are so darn tasty. There are many recipes but honey and mayonnaise with a touch of garlic and onion is popular. One of the menfolk will be given the job of lighting an outdoor fire and getting those juicy morsels cooking (aided and abetted by everyone else giving them a poke and offering advice about how often to turn them, whether the fire needs stoking etc). People’s adoration for shashlik is akin to religious fervour; accordingly, if they’re under or over cooked, it’s a tragedy of great proportion. In addition, the dining table is bound to be groaning under the strain of several kilos of mayonnaise coated carrots, peas, beetroot, cabbage and onions.

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After your meal, your hosts will probably take you for a walk in the forest: where ever you are in Belarus, you’re never far from trees. Some forests are so dense that it’s like stepping straight into a scene form Red Riding Hood. Be careful where you step as, underfoot, growing in the leaf mulch, there’ll be exquisite bluebells, cowslips and other flowers rarely seen elsewhere. Your mission is likely to be a spot of mushroom picking. This is such a popular pastime in Belarus that it’s almost rather like a hobby. People often travel out to their dachas with the express purpose of collecting as many mushrooms as they can – since they can be cooked and stored in jars to last all winter through. Bearing in mind that you probably aren’t a mushroom expert yourself, ask your new friends to check everything you pick carefully: there are poisonous varieties about and, every year, a few people fall foul of them. 

If the weather’s warm, your hosts might persuade you to go for a dip in a nearby lake or river or try your hand at fishing. These are also time-honoured favourites and most people built their dachas next to water when they can. If you do decide to take the plunge, make sure you’re a strong swimmer (and are sober). In just one week of July last year, 96 people drowned while taking an outside swim. If you aren’t feeling that brave, then you can enjoy peering in; there are usually plenty of frogs and fish to admire. Come evening time, someone may have an accordion or guitar and it won’t take much encouragement to get everyone singing – or, even, up dancing. With the stars twinkling clearly above you, what could be more lovely. 

Finally, there’s one more aspect of dacha life that cannot go unnoticed – the Banya. Clever Belarusians usually build these themselves. A small wooden shed is fitted up with a stove to heat coals upon. Just strip off, throw a ladle of water over the hot plate and hold on to the door (as the steam has been known to blow them open). You can then relax into the experience. Ultra keen Banya-goers will have a few birch twigs at hand (ready soaked) with which to thwack each other’s backsides. This isn’t pure sado-machism; the idea is to help your circulation and get those toxins moving. Once you’re nicely cooked, you run outside and jump into the cool water of the lake. For the true devotee, this whole process can be repeated in the depths of winter, with rolling about in flurries of snow and breaking the ice on top of the water a ceremonial necessity. 

Town folk, living in high rise tower blocks all year round, understandably sigh for the countryside and love to indulge their fantasy of self-sufficiency – spending back breaking hours nurturing a few potatoes and carrots that they could just as easily go and buy in the market. Of course, those living in the countryside full time dream of a day out in the big city, gorging themselves on fast food, buying nylon tat in the market and having their photo taken next to all the monuments. Meanwhile, the bright young things who get bundled into their parents’ overstuffed Ladas every Friday evening would much rather be watching the latest Hollywood blockbuster at the cinema or snogging in the park.  Such is life.

All You Ever Wanted To Know About Buying A Castle - I once said that most people will do almost anything to read about buying a castle, because it's such a fascinating subject; but then I added that few of them will ever really go out and buy a castle. Well I wrote that before the Berlin wall fell and the sudden surprise appearance of numerous magnificent castles in Eastern Europe.  Suddenly we were seeing castles worth buying at prices we could afford.  To own a castle, to live in it and to have an income from it by turning it into a solid business venture is the ultimate dream job for castle enthusiasts. And it is possible! So how does one make this dream a reality?