I
was 18 years old when I made the decision to take the summer off before
entering what I imagined to be four years of incarceration in university,
and thus set out in search of an adventure so compelling, it would sustain
me through the tedious and interminable life of a student.
My inspiration
to make the journey stemmed from my father, who as a poet, writer, and
avid traveller, had instilled in me a burning desire to explore the vagarious,
exotic world of a rover. Countless nights I listened fervently to
his tales of Spain, and of the splendor and pageantry of the bullfights
that his hero, Ernest Hemingway, had immortalized through his prose.
I knew intuitively
that my first (and possibly last) quixotic quest before entering the realm
of academia, would be to run with the bulls in the famous summer festival
of Pamplona, Spain.
The fiesta
known as San Fermin, a seven day celebration deeply rooted in tradition,
is held annually the first week of July in northern Spain. It's most
characteristic event, the "encierro", or running of the bulls, is a bizarre
and ostentatious display of machismo bravado. The spectacle is promptly
initiated each morning by fireworks, proclaiming bulls have been released
from their pens to run freely through the barricaded streets of the village
to the nearby arena. Audacious thrill seekers test their courage
by running ahead of the stampeding herd, often with disastrous results.
Since its inception in the 13th century, (when butchers hurried slightly
in front of bulls being led to auction to ensure themselves a choice place
in the bidding), several people have been killed, and hundreds of others
seriously injured. It was with this disconcerting thread of historical
data weaving through my road weary head, that I circumspectly stepped down
from the bus one pristine evening, into the quaint, and sleepy village
known as Pamplona.
Arriving a
day before the official start of the festival, I was hard pressed to find
a room anywhere, and finally with luck stumbled upon a run down hotel on
the outskirts of town, where an assortment of like-minded adventurers had
gathered together in camaraderie born of necessity. I found myself
sharing a room with three sleep deprived revelers, who having arrived a
day earlier, enthusiastically briefed me on the previous nights activity,
which consisted primarily of inhaling massive quantities of vino from a
goatskin bag, the erubescent liquid invariably cascading profusely down
their white linen shirts. Looking fondly back on that time, I recall
a sea of scarlet clad men careening through the village streets in a state
of exultation, no doubt a result of the generous amount of libation consumed,
but more importantly, because they were young and carefree, passionately
embracing the ephemeral, bittersweet joy of their youth.
The next morning
I and my comrades began the day in the manner that anyone facing almost
certain death would .... we drank as much wine as possible. With a sense
of dread and exhilaration in equal measure, we made our way to the threshold
of the village's makeshift corral, where secured behind a massive wooden
gate stood a legion of ominous looking bulls. They appeared as apprehensive
and fearful as ourselves, and I secretly hoped that through some inexplicable
means of cerebral transference, we would establish telepathic agreement
to stay as far away from each other as possible during the impending ordeal.
I was stunned by their stupendous size and obvious strength, and realized,
that as my sister had so adamantly informed me of the day I left, I truly
must be insane to contemplate such an endeavor. With one long last
pull from the wine bag, I resolved to scoff in the face of danger, and
like a dauntless matador about to enter the arena, I cast my fate to the
Mediterranean wind.
What ensued
in the next few seconds, is referred to by ancient zen masters as... kensho.
A moment so firmly entrenched in the present, that all mundane concerns
of past and future concede to to the all encompassing now. Upon the release
of the formidable creatures, I remember sprinting blindly forward down
the antediluvian road, my one consuming thought that of reaching the distant
ring, where those who successfully finished the course would be granted
a seat to the afternoon bullfights. Propelled onward by a flush of
panic induced adrenalin, I suddenly found myself running not from the beasts,
but among them. A conglomeration of thrashing legs, arms, and gleaming
sweat laden bull flesh had somehow intertwined, generating a pulsating
throng of spasmodic motion that thundered along the narrow cobblestone
passageways in a frenetic state of terror, aggregated with an emotion that
can only be described as... euphoric.
Running surrealistically
amidst the advancing horde, I instinctively strived to remain upright,
and as far away as possible from the the myriad of horns that encirled
me. Peripherally, I caught sight of one terrified participant overcome
with fear, frantically attempting to make his way over the spectator-lined
barricade, only to be pushed forebodingly back by the crowd, abandoned
forsakenly to confront his precarious fate.
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Previous
articles on Spain:
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An
Old Olive Mill in Southern Spain …. Business AND Pleasure !!
Embraced by
the rugged, but beautiful terrain to be found in the heart of Andalucía,
Gaucín was once a sleepy, sun-bleached village. Nowadays, it is
managing to balance a centuries-old way of life with a burgeoning interest
from tourists seeking the authenticity of ‘real’ Spain. Here they are discovering
the ideal ‘get away from it all’ holiday destination... indeed, one of
the attractions of Gaucín is that it is so laid-back, even the cicadas
take a siesta.
Coming
to Spain?
The first
part in a series of short practical articles (very general in scope) for
people who plan on visiting or living in Spain, written with the intention
of pointing out aspects of Spanish life that may be challenging to foreigners.
Is
Land Ownership in Spain Truly Freehold?
Taking land
without justification or at worst, adequate compensation, is an undeniable
breach of human rights and perhaps of the theory of freehold land ownership
but,..hey what human rights existed in Spain in 1938..or even later? By
Tom Clancy. |
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