Hong
Kong: The Conflicting Nature of its Islands
By Pooja
Datar
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November 2006
Having
stayed on the two main islands, ‘Central’ and ‘Kowloon’ in Hong Kong, I
could not help but wonder how diverse they both were in not just lifestyles
but outlook as well. In my opinion, Central, the main business
district of Hong Kong exudes a sophisticated look whereas Kowloon has a
charmingly festive nature to it. ‘Central’ reminded me of the famous
C.B.D. Connaught Place and Kowloon’ bore the look of a famous shopping
area by the name of Karol Bagh, located at New Delhi in India, my permanent
abode.
Kowloon is
the southern tip of the peninsula and faces Hong Kong island. Taking a
ferry ride from one end to the other, I noticed the diversifying nature
of the two islands. My visits to the Victoria Peak offering panaromic view
of all of Hong Kong also cemented this hypothesis.
Central
has the commercial office skyscrapers such as the architectural marvel
70-storeyed Bank of China building, IFC mall, The Ritz Carlton hotel and
financial office complexes dotting the landscape. Tall buildings
having reflective glass facades are interlinked with well connected elevated
walkways, which are meant for pedestrians. The vehicular traffic
is segregated neatly on the lower metallic road surface. The Mid-Levels
escalators are a continuous series of escalators connecting Central to
Mid-Levels residential area which is high in density. One can see
people in formal office attire walking to their offices or maybe going
to a deli to grab a bite during lunch hours. Some might be sitting
along the water fountain sculptures outside Exchange Square, just relaxing
for a while.
Kowloon, however
has a unique charm to it. Just as one approaches the periphery, the
looming structures of Central are forgotten and one can see the curving
concrete walls of the Cultural Centre and two museums next to it.
There are always some people loitering around the Victoria harbour, looking
towards the sea at the Avenue of Stars or maybe even trying their hands
at angling.
The Sound and
Light show, which occurs every night at 8 pm, should not be missed, especially
when viewed from the Cultural Centre, where music plays, so complimenting
the smashing display. It offers a scenic view to watch the Symphony
of Lights wherein the tallest buildings of Central and Wan Chai district
near it throw laser lights in perfect coordination with one another.
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RESOURCE
LINKS FOR HONG KONG
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Previous
articles on Hong Kong:
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Hills,
Mountains And Sea
Trekking up
a steep knife-edged ridge, covered in late season grass, the slope gently
dropped off on either side. To my right, the green rolling hills were expansive,
filling the horizon with a never-ending panorama of undisturbed nature.
To my left, an easy bluff eventually gave way to a sharp drop of approximately
sixty meters, ending on a sandy beach. |
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While walking
on the streets of Kowloon, I observed that it was heavily crowded all the
time as if a street carnival was in progression. Women would be distributing
pamphlets for foot-massage parlours or some Indian men would try to lure
you to try a particular tailor or look at some watches, handbags in their
shops. The arterial road connecting Canton road and Nathan road has
retail shops mostly of apparel lined up one after the other.
Unlike Central
where there is a well organized segregation of traffic, here one can see
people walking on the sidewalks or crossing the roads even while traffic
is in motion. These are mostly shopaholics or merry makers dressed
in colourful casual attire. The smell of sea-food is just around
every corner as there are abundant quick-food stores to grab a bite from.
The Mirador
Mansion and Chung King Mansion on Nathan road offer Indian food items,
so one can see quite a few Indians in the vicinity. Most of the Indians
residing in Hong Kong prefer to stay in Tsim Tsha Tsui in Kowloon.
The Kowloon mosque close to the Kowloon Park is quite a prominent landmark
there. The Harbour City mall, which is the largest mall in Hong Kong
with more than 700 shops in it, has Grade-A quality serviced apartments,
which are the Gateway apartments where I stayed mostly.
I fell in love
with this place as I met many women like me who were accompanying their
working spouses and taking care of kids. We called ourselves the
‘travelling spouses’. My friends came from all parts of the world
and we all had some common thoughts to share about Hong Kong, which culminated
in it being extraordinarily appealing despite its size.
Let me bring
to light my theory of the conflicting nature of the two islands by two
cases in point. Lan Kwai Fong, an area in Central is nothing but flashy.
Just as one starts walking on the steep incline towards it , one can see
overhead neon sign-boards of restaurants flashing from quite a distance.
The street carnival once in a year has the Mardi Gras parade in it too.
A DJ would be re-mixing retro music, a juggler would be entertaining people
at a corner and a street would be dedicated just for toys for kids.
However, a
visit to Mong Kok in Kowloon would offer you flashiness of another kind.
A temporary market street in Mong Kok sells a wide range of apparel wear,
toys, shoes, gift items all at good bargain prices. It is a hot-spot
with foreigners who want to pick a whole lot of things at a price which
would not dig a hole in their pockets. The Temple Street at Yau Mei
Tei is a great place to shop during the late hours. There is a lot
of hustle-bustle ensuring safety for women.
When I started
writing this article, the purpose was to highlight the conflicting nature
of the two main islands within Hong Kong be it in lifestyles of people
or simply the streetscape which has been either planned out well or maybe
come about naturally. However, during the course of putting my thoughts
down on paper I realized that comparison between the two is a daunting
task. The two are so unique and charming in their own ways that one
can just appreciate these two independent entities. Be it the sophisticated
elegant ambience of Central or the festive outburst of energy which Kowloon
seems to have, they are both always on the move in their own directions.
They would never merge and that is how they would resplendently shine by
being so diverse.
| Pooja Datar,
an architect from India currently residing in Hong Kong, presents her observations
of this extraordinary place.E-mail: pooja_datar@hotmail.com |
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