Spion Kop Walk

The Whitsunday Islands deserve their reputation as one of Australia’s highlights. White sand, palm trees, tropical birds and hammocks on the beach are just a few reasons to visit one of these ninety island paradises. Chartering a yacht is a popular way to explore the Whitsundays, but this usually leaves you with a just a few hours on each island. If you want to do some serious relaxing and get to know the islands a little more intimately, I’d recommend a stay at one of the many island resorts.

I was curious to see just how “budget” South Molle Island really is, since it’s billed as the affordable Whitsunday experience.  But any doubts my mother and I had are erased immediately upon our arrival when we’re greeted with fancy drinks.  As we relax  next to the spacious pool several rainbow lorikeets welcome us further by perching on our glasses, giving us just a taste of the bird life that South Molle has to offer.  Beyond the pool and its accompanying tables and umbrellas, I can see lush green hills in the distance, begging to be explored.

After our drinks we’re shown to our rooms.  South Molle offers varying levels of accommodation, from basic ensuite rooms and family rooms to private bungalows on the beach, known as Beachcomber rooms.  This is where we’re staying, and I eye the private spa bath with glee.  But I didn’t come to the Whitsundays to lounge in a bubble bath, so we unpack quickly and head down to the jetty to catch our sunset cruise.  Unfortunately, the sky is overcast so there is no proper sunset, but the views of South Molle and the surrounding islands make the trip worthwhile.  The friendly staff, nibbles and free champagne don’t hurt either!

Bush Walking
The next day we try very hard to relax, but there’s so much to do on South Molle and relaxing gets pushed to the bottom of our list.  To me, The Whitsundays are all about the natural beauty and I want to see as much of the island as I can.  South Molle is the largest island in the Molle group and is home to 16 kilometers of walking trails and 405 hectares of unspoiled national park.  After some advice from the helpful staff, we decide to vacate our poolside lounges and head towards Spion Kop, just one of the many walking trails the island has to offer.

Even though the sky is still overcast and it’s technically winter here in July, the air is warm.  By the time we’ve crossed the golf course and made our way towards the walking trails, I’ve worked up a sweat and am feeling less guilty about the buffet lunch we’ve just indulged in.  We start a gentle climb through a forest of eucalyptus and gradually leave civilization behind. No one else is around and all we hear are the sounds of nature.  About five minutes into the trail, a Kookaburra graces us with its presence, its shrill laugh echoing in the empty woods.

As we ascend, the views get better and better.  Every once in awhile we have to climb over a fallen log or duck under an overgrown vine; the trail has been left as natural as possible.  Eventually we reach the top where  we get a panorama of the rest of the island group in the distance, the beaches on the other side of South Molle and a myriad of small boats spread out on the water. 

What impresses me most about the island is the way in which the resort has been developed.  Only a very small portion has  any sign of human disturbance, and from the summit of Spion Kop, it looks as though we are staring down on an untouched wilderness.  The national park is well cared for and nature lovers will appreciate the idyllic setting of this holiday resort.  You get the best of both worlds here, and you don’t have to feel guilty about it.  The island paradise has been left alone as much as possible.

After another delicious buffet dinner that night, we manage to fit in some relaxing with a cocktail by the pool.  As we sip our drinks, several curlews stroll up and check us out.  The nocturnal birds have absurdly long skinny legs and exquisite brown and white feathers.  They’re shy though; every time I get my camera ready, they take off into the bushes.

Scuba Diving
The next day, having explored the surface of the island, it’s time to delve a bit deeper into the island’s offerings. I’ve been a scuba diver for most of my adult life, but my mother has never even snorkelled.  Somehow, I manage to convince her to try the free ten minute intro scuba course that takes place in the resort pool.  I know that our guide, Nick, is also a big part of the reason my mom decides to give it a try; he’s one of the nicest and most reassuring people I’ve ever met. 

After we’re geared up, we stand in the pool while Nick explains the basics to my mom.  She tests her breathing apparatus by putting her face in the water and breathing in and out a few times.  Within a few minutes, Nick has her kneeling in the shallow end of the pool, with just the top of her head sticking out of the water.  Essentially, she’s scuba diving. 

I have a hard time believing it; although my mother is quite adventurous, she’s not a water person.  I watch with amazement as they slowly swim towards the deep end. I was sure that after a few attempts at putting her face in the water, my mom would panic and say something like, “It’s not for me.”  But Nick is holding her arm the whole way and I know she’d never have made it this far without him.  He’s doing all the work for her; leading her around, adjusting her equipment and adding and releasing air to her vest according to the depth. If my mother can scuba dive – anyone can do it!  She feels so comfortable with Nick that she decides to go again – in the ocean.  I never dreamed that I would ever have my mother as a scuba diving partner, and I’m so thankful that Nick is being so good to us.  He promises to hold her hand the whole way, and I promise not to tell my father when we get home! 

Two hours later, we’re in the ocean, descending onto South Molle Island’s fringing reef.  Although I have my eyes mainly on my scuba diving mother, I manage to take in some of the great sights.  The reef is in good shape and I see plenty of soft coral moving with the tide.  As we move farther from the shore, we encounter more fish.  We even see one shark, a wobbegong, although I’m sure my mom doesn’t realize that what she is seeing is a shark. Wobbegongs are flat, spotted creatures that nestle into the sand and pure luck allows me to spot this one.

The dive lasts only about 30 minutes, but during that time we see huge batfish, blue and purple parrotfish, a school of flashing silvery trevally and tiny angelfish darting behind staghorn coral.  Nick even finds a sea slug and picks it up and puts it in my hand.  The slimy creature is as light as a feather and I marvel at its size.  When we reach the surface, I can tell my mother enjoyed the dive, although she seems slightly bewildered.  I’m so proud of her for even trying, never mind succeeding, and I’m sure neither of us will ever forget this incredible dive on South Molle Island!