End of soap box speech.

The Border Run Process (Poi Pet): 

Approaching the border from Thailand, you begin to see large Casino's located just inside Cambodia. The border itself is marked by an ornate, large concrete colored Cambodian styled archway, adorned with Pagodas and topless dancing goddesses.

About four blocks from the Archway, you'll come to one last large intersection, usually clogged with cement trucks waiting in long lines to enter Cambodia single file.

At that intersection, you'll want to weave your way between the trucks, towards the border, and look for the fenced-off fields to the right, where for 50 baht you can park your car, and know it'll be there when you return.  The border crossing can take as much as three hours (though I'm usually done in one) so try to park in the shade.  Save your parking stub for later. Before leaving the car, I suggest you get your passport, photos, money, etc. organized. Everything has a place, and if you start out knowing exactly where everything is, you won't be found searching later, when you're vulnerable to pick-pockets. I carry a bum-bag containing  my wallet, passport, photos, cash, coins, and several extra ball-point pens.  Once everything is in place, I zip shut all compartments and wrap the belt-strap around my left hand.  That's where it stays until I return to the car.

Now you're ready to go.  Lock your car, and walk towards the border...about six city blocks to the East. If you need to use a restroom, there are several filthy ones along the way; all charging several baht for their use. I suggest you wait however, until you cross the border...  just a few minutes away... then you can use the nice, clean, air conditioned restrooms inside the Casino's...for free.

From this point on, you can expect to be approached often by men offering to help you get your visa... to which your mantra is:  "No thank you, I can do it myself."  This may not be in Thai, but I assure you they'll know what you mean.  Be persistent! They will be also.  It's a war of wills... but you really don't want their assistance.

You will also be approached by young girls, throwing an umbrella open up over your head, in the hopes you'll give them money. If you want this service...fine.  Otherwise, firmly say: "No thank you" and walk persistently forward.  They will usually keep walking with you. Just ignore them...they'll eventually move on.

You will also pass by horribly exploited little children begging for money. Walking past them may be one of the hardest things you'll ever do... but keep in mind that some scum-bag of an adult is putting them up to this, and taking the money from them. Your giving them any money only prolongs their suffering. So pray for them...or wish them well... or count your blessings,  but don't feed the fire under their feet with a donation.  Please, please, please!

Proceeding towards the border, you'll start milling in closer with other people. Start watching for pick pockets and hold tight to your belongings. Most of these people will be Asians, along with a scant (but ever growing) minority of foreigners like yourself. Keep to the left side of the road, under and past the large roofed structure, to the small building on the left. This is the Thailand Departure building. This will be your first stop. 

In front of the Thailand Departure building you'll see corridors of steel-bar fences segregating people into lines. The lines to the left are for Thai Nationals, and are usually very full. To the right of those people, you'll see an empty corridor under a sign saying "Foreign Passports." That's where you go. Usually there's no line, so you can walk straight through with no wait, and enter the building beyond. Do not go into the far right line, which is for people with border passes crossing on a daily basis. If you go in that line, it will take you on past the Thailand Departure building, so watch out for that.

Once inside the Thailand Departure building.... feeling "special" for getting to bypass all those Thais waiting outside, you'll find another set of lines leading to service windows.  Again, stay in the ones to the right, leading to the "Foreign Passports" windows.  At this point, you'll likely have a five to ten minute wait.  Now is a good time to take out your passport, and locate the "Departure Card" from your last entry into Thailand, which should be stapled inside. 

While waiting here in line, here's a bit of trivia to consider; by now you'veprobably heard Thais refer to you as a "Falong" and wondered if your should be offended by this.  Trust me... it's not an insult.   Many Thais would give their right arm to be a "Falong."The word "Falong" which Thais write as: "Farang" originated in these border crossings, where people have long been segregated into two groups; Thai people and Foreign people. Look around the room, and imagine that these Thais standing in line have to call these other (apparently privileged people) by some name... so they look above the windows and it says "Foreign."  Then consider how Thais always butcher the English language; mispronouncing R's as L's, and L's as R's, and sometimes L's as N's...as when they pronounce "football" as "footbon."  It then becomes easy to see how Thais trying to pronounce "Foreign"  came up with "Falong."   So the next time you hear the word "Falong" uttered by strangers; relax and know that they mean you no disrespect whatsoever, but are only saying "There goes a non-Thai" which is about like you whispering to your friend "look... movie star" as Tom Cruise walks past.  So hold your head high, and suck in those guts; be a proud Falong.  Besides, your objections are not going to change the habits of 70 million Thais. Just go with the flow.

Anyway, back in line... When it's your turn, step up to the window, smile and hand over your passport. They'll be taking your picture while you stand there, comparing it to previous ones on file; so just stand politely waiting.  After the official has removed your Departure Card, and date-stamped your Passport, they'll hand it back to you. Thank them by saying: "Cop Khune, Krup" (or Caw, if you're a female) and walk through the opening next to the window, and out the "Exit Door" to your right. 

Note: You do not pay any money in this building unless you have overstayed the date stamped in your passport. If you have overstayed; don't sweat it... as they'll just ask you to step to a desk in the rear of the room, where they'll fill out receipts, collect 500 baht (US$13) for each day you've stayed over, and send you on you way.  Nothing personal...just business. Thank them, and exit the building. In either case, you are now out of Thailand... in "no man's land" and not yet checked into Cambodia.

Outside of the Thailand Departure building, you'll walk east, over a flat, very small bridge called the "Friendship Bridge." I think all bridges between Thailand and their bordering countries are called the "Friendship Bridge" as was the one at Nong Kai.

Looking east towards Cambodia, you'll see the border Archway about two blocks ahead.  Just to the right of it (South) you'll see a small building consisting of a flat roof over rows of blue chairs.  That's the Cambodia Arrival Building and waiting area.  That's your next stop.  So walk diagonally across the street, and over to that building; and head for the outdoor counter in front of the service window. 

If you get stopped by uniformed guards while crossing the street, these will likely not be real government employees, but imposter's in uniforms, looking to find suckers.  Just tell them:  "No, thank you....I can do it myself,"  and that you don't need their assistance.... and they'll let you be on your way.  You see, these people live in a symbiotic relationship, where they provide the appearance of Police, and are allowed to take whatever money they can scam from that location.  They lay in wait, preying on ignorant tourists, and pay a percentage of their take to someone higher up the food chain.  I've seen them happen onto a clueless tourist....they immediately leave "their post" and escort the person through the rest of their process...until they get some money.  It's either very personalized service, or a severe dereliction of duty.

Once over to the Cambodia Arrival building, notice the counter area, where you'll see several men standing "in wait."  Think: "Vultures."  One will rush out to beat the others to you, and will act as if dealing with him IS the next part of your process.  It's not.  Just treat the vultures with respect, but be fully aware that none of them work for the government.

So just firmly keep telling them: "No thank you, I can do this myself. Then proceed to pick up one of the 8.5" x 11" forms stacked on the counter.   Fill out the form in block letters.   All the data you provide should be very easy to come up with.  Names, Nationality, Birth date, etc.  For point of entry, write Poi Pet.  Length of stay: 1 day. Address in Thailand can be a simple as: Bangkok or Korat.  After you've finished; sign the form in the space provided, and staple one photo where indicated. Now comes the fun part...

Notice that the sign directly over the window very clearly states that the price for entry into Cambodia is twenty US dollars. To the unsuspecting tourist, even the officials behind the window will try to convince them that the cost is 1,000 baht(US$26). Don't give in to this pressure to just pay it...but instead,  if you'll look around, you'll see that there is a small bank teller window, just outside and to the right of the dark glass service windows. Go there and tell the girl that you'd like to purchase one American twenty dollar bill.  Depending upon currency rates, the cost for this should be about 770 baht. Then, go back to the Visa service window; slide it open, and give the man your Passport; the form with your picture stapled to it; and the US $20 bill.

Usually he will say "One thousand baht" as if that's the cost... making one last attempt at your money. To this... just smile and say: "No...it's $20 US... I know better" ...and point to the large sign above that window... and smile. He will then see that you are not going to fall for his scam....  take your cash and documents... and close the window. Don't expect him to be happy about this, as he just lost 230 baht...which is about two days wages to most Thais. Then, walk over to the blue seats, sit down (still smiling) and wait for about five minutes while they process your passport.

While waiting, I like to look around for any other "Falongs" who appear to be vulnerable travelers, and strike up a conversation.  If they are new to the game, I take a few minutes to tell them how to navigate the process without any "helpers," and save them some money too.   Usually in five minutes I can save someone $20 or $30... if they haven't already been taken in by a "helper."

Also, I've found that by talking with other Falongs; the people processing my documents have an incentive to hurry up, and get me out of there, before I cost them any more "easy money."  It's an effective motivator.  Otherwise, they could make me wait there in the heat for having not played their game. After a few minutes waiting in the blue seats, a man will emerge and return your passport.  Look it over.  Find the Visa card they've put inside. Make sure all is in order. It'll be the only one not stamped "Used." Usually it's all okay.

When you're sure it's good, leave the blue seats and head east towards the Casinos. As you leave the covered blue seat area however, be aware of yet another scam laying in wait for you.  At the east end of the blue seats are some tables with men in uniforms, trying to look official.  They're not. These too are crooks. They will try to call you over, saying that you need a "Health Certificate." Just smile and say:"No thank you....I know better" ...and walk on. They'll usually just smile back at you... acknowledging that you've won that battle.  I paid 100 baht at that station on my first border run, and thought it was odd that they took my money and gave me a small piece of paper, but didn't ask any health questions.  Since then I've never paid another baht for a Health Certificate...and never been been stopped.

From the blue seat area walk east about three blocks.  This will put you at the entrance to the Casino with the Large Diamond directly over the road.  Now would be a good time to go into the Casino on your right, and use a nice clean, cool restroom.  Otherwise, continue on to the next small open-air building just beyond the casino. 

At the left side of that building sets a small table, with two or three "helpers" waiting for you. These are also bogus. Ask them for a Cambodia Arrival-Departure card, which they are required to provide upon request... and then tell them: "No thank you, I can do this myself"  ...and go sit down, and fill out the form. Once done, get in line for either window and wait. At the window, you'll give them your passport and Arrival-Departure card...smile for the camera. They'll check you into Cambodia... stamp your passport and give it back to you. At this station they often ask for 200, 300 or 400 baht; acting like that's the normal fee.  Again, this is bogus... so just smile and say, "No thank you, I know better," take your passport and exit the building to the east.

Walk about ten paces east and you'll find yourself looking at a large circular intersection with a statue at it's center. Welcome to Cambodia...or what I call "Hell on Earth." 

Look around you.  It's filthy, the air smells of raw sewage, and you won't go far before some guy will try to talk you into visiting the young girls at what they laughingly call "the chicken farm" where "private time" can be had for as low as 300 baht. Where human dignity and morality has long since lost out to greedy adults, both men and women, very willing to sell the souls of their own children. At this point of the journey, I always have an overwhelming desire to get out of Cambodia as quickly as possible. 

So I immediately, I cross the street to the North, where you'll see a small building with a covered area, and several lines formed in front of service windows. This is the Cambodia Departure building. Get into one of those lines...wait about five more minutes...show your Passport, and again -  No money gets paid here either. They'll stamp your Passport, check you out of Cambodia, give it back... and you're free to head back towards Thailand.

Proceed back past the Archway, onto the "Friendship Bridge" ...crossing this time on the South side.  Whew!  ...you're now back in Thailand....which suddenly looks a lot better than before you left.

Directly after the bridge, you'll come to a small table where a Thai official will hand you a Thailand Arrival/Departure Card. Take it to one of the standing counters under the covered area, and fill it out.  When complete, place it into your Passport next to the Cambodia Visa card, and get in line for the next window below the sign saying "Foreign Passports." These lines should be nearly empty as compared to the Thai Visa lines (to the right) which are always full. After waiting in line and showing your passport at the window, they will stamp it as having Arrived back into the Kingdom of Thailand, with a new date showing when you'll next need to do a border run. Once they hand back your Passport; exit past the window and take a moment to check the date they stamped. Now is a much better time to discover an error than later.

If everything looks in order, and it usually does; you can now put your passport securely away, and start the short walk back to your car, about six blocks to the west.  Once there; give them your receipt...get into your car... look in the mirror and congratulate yourself on successfully running the gauntlet.  You are now a Veteran Border Runner.  Now you can get back to enjoying your adventures in Thailand.