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Thailand . So you've discovered the unique beauty of Thailand... and now you'd like to stay for as long as possible.  Unless you've managed to land a work permit (which is almost impossible) or are retired and sitting on loads of cash,  it's likely that you've only been given the opportunity to explore Thailand in 30-day increments...and only three of those at a time if new rules go into effect. To stay longer than 30-days, you'll be required to do what we call a  "Border Run," in which you'll travel to one of Thailand's border crossings, leave the country, then re-enter in order to obtain another 30-day passport stamp.   . On the surface, this sounds simple.  In truth, it's one of the most frustrating things you’ll ever have to do, unless you know how to do it right. Instead of it being a straight forward system of processing data,  keeping track of who and where you are, the "border run" has long been a gauntlet of corruption.  Thankfully, within Thailand you'll find that most corruption has been eliminated.  But once you cross that border, you can expect to be met by more scams and con-artists in one day...nearly all in uniform... than you've seen in your whole lifetime.  The typical tourist hasn't a clue as to who gets paid what...so they end up paying lots of bogus fees and tips, simply because they don't know better.  This article will make you know better.  At the time of  writing, I've made the border run to the Poi Pet, Cambodia twelve times.  I did go to the Lao border once, near Nong Kai.  That was a "trip from hell" - story to be told another time.  Suffice it to say, I learned it's best to stick with the closest border crossing to where you are staying, observe every nuance about it, and get it down to a science.  That's what I've done with the Poi Pet crossing, and those pearls of wisdom I offer you here. My first border run to Poi Pet cost me 2,700 baht ($US72), and I thought I'd done pretty well.  One year later however, I'm doing the same border run for 820 baht ($US22), including the 50 baht ($US1.3) I pay to park.   So I suggest you print this article, and take it with you on your next border run.  You should be able to follow the basic structure of who gets paid what, and where, at any of Thailand's other border crossings. For the purpose of this article, I'm assuming you're driving to the border, as I do.  The border run itself doesn't seem to be a very difficult at first glance, until you get there, and find that very little is signed in English, and most who offer assistance, are really only looking to assist you away from your money!  Okay, here's my soap box speech:   In this Age of Technology, the entire border run process could easily be done away with... and it should be.  It could be replaced by a system where the traveller first establishes his or her identity...obtains an international I.D. Card with magnetic strip containing all that redundant info you now have to fill in on the Arrival-Departure cards.  With such an I.D. Card the traveller could simply go to the nearest ATM..."check-in" to the international passport system.... punch in a PIN number... answer a few questions... have money automatically transferred to the International system.  The system would then handle which country gets what (by treaty) and the traveller would be kept track of; the host countries could collect their fees, and we'd all be effectively cutting out the corrupt mayhem and needless personal risks of having to travel to the borders.  Am I the only one who sees the light here???? Until such a system is developed however, we are stuck with running the gauntlet of border thieves.  The reason the border run exists at all, is primarily due to the fact that people in these border towns have carved out a lucrative niche by creating a system that's intentionally very confusing and redundant.  In effect, they have lobbied their governments to have the tourists forced into their traps.  Until the governments begin acting on behalf of all the people, and not just the ones who are paying them bribes,  we'll have to fight the scammers, armed with the information I provide here. End of soap box speech. The Border Run Process (Poi Pet):  Approaching the border from Thailand, you begin to see large Casino's located just inside Cambodia.  The border itself is marked by an ornate, large concrete colored Cambodian styled archway, adorned with Pagodas and topless dancing goddesses. About four blocks from the Archway, you'll come to one last large intersection, usually clogged with cement trucks waiting in long lines to enter Cambodia single file.  At that intersection, you'll want to weave your way between the trucks, towards the border, and look for the fenced-off fields to the right, where for 50 baht you can park your car, and know it'll be there when you return.  The border crossing can take as much as three hours (though I'm usually done in one) so try to park in the shade.  Save your parking stub for later.  Before leaving the car, I suggest you get your passport, photos, money, etc. organized.  Everything has a place, and if you start out knowing exactly where everything is, you won't be found searching later, when you're vulnerable to pick-pockets.  I carry a bum-bag containing  my wallet, passport, photos, cash, coins, and several extra ball-point pens.  Once everything is in place, I zip shut all compartments and wrap the belt-strap around my left hand.  That's where it stays until I return to the car.  Now you're ready to go.  Lock your car, and walk towards the border...about six city blocks to the East.  If you need to use a restroom, there are several filthy ones along the way; all charging several baht for their use.  I suggest you wait however, until you cross the border...  just a few minutes away... then you can use the nice, clean, air conditioned restrooms inside the Casino's...for free. From this point on, you can expect to be approached often by men offering to help you get your visa... to which your mantra is:  "No thank you, I can do it myself."  This may not be in Thai, but I assure you they'll know what you mean.  Be persistent!  They will be also.  It's a war of wills... but you really don't want their assistance. You will also be approached by young girls, throwing an umbrella open up over your head, in the hopes you'll give them money.  If you want this service...fine.  Otherwise, firmly say:  "No thank you" and walk persistently forward.  They will usually keep walking with you.  Just ignore them...they'll eventually move on. You will also pass by horribly exploited little children begging for money.  Walking past them may be one of the hardest things you'll ever do... but keep in mind that some scum-bag of an adult is putting them up to this, and taking the money from them.  Your giving them any money only prolongs their suffering.   So pray for them...or wish them well... or count your blessings,  but don't feed the fire under their feet with a donation.  Please, please, please! Proceeding towards the border, you'll start milling in closer with other people.  Start watching for pick pockets and hold tight to your belongings.  Most of these people will be Asians, along with a scant (but ever growing) minority of foreigners like yourself.  Keep to the left side of the road, under and past the large roofed structure, to the small building on the left.  This is the Thailand Departure building.  This will be your first stop.  In front of the Thailand Departure building you'll see corridors of steel-bar fences segregating people into lines.  The lines to the left are for Thai Nationals, and are usually very full.  To the right of those people, you'll see an empty corridor under a sign saying "Foreign Passports."  That's where you go.  Usually there's no line, so you can walk straight through with no wait, and enter the building beyond.  Do not go into the far right line, which is for people with border passes crossing on a daily basis.  If you go in that line, it will take you on past the Thailand Departure building, so watch out for that. Once inside the Thailand Departure building.... feeling "special" for getting to bypass all those Thais waiting outside, you'll find another set of lines leading to service windows.  Again, stay in the ones to the right, leading to the "Foreign Passports" windows.  At this point, you'll likely have a five to ten minute wait.  Now is a good time to take out your passport, and locate the "Departure Card" from your last entry into Thailand, which should be stapled inside.  While waiting here in line, here's a bit of trivia to consider;  by now you'veprobably heard Thais refer to you as a "Falong" and wondered if your should be offended by this.  Trust me... it's not an insult.   Many Thais would give their right arm to be a "Falong."  The word "Falong" which Thais write as: "Farang" originated in these border crossings, where people have long been segregated into two groups;  Thai people and Foreign people. Look around the room, and imagine that these Thais standing in line have to call these other (apparently privileged people) by some name... so they look above the windows and it says "Foreign."  Then consider how Thais always butcher the English language; mispronouncing R's as L's, and L's as R's, and sometimes L's as N's...as when they pronounce "football" as "footbon."  It then becomes easy to see how Thais trying to pronounce "Foreign"  came up with "Falong."   So the next time you hear the word "Falong" uttered by strangers; relax and know that they mean you no disrespect whatsoever, but are only saying "There goes a non-Thai" which is about like you whispering to your friend "look... movie star" as Tom Cruise walks past.  So hold your head high, and suck in those guts; be a proud Falong.  Besides, your objections are not going to change the habits of 70 million Thais.  Just go with the flow.

. Photo: Hungry Eye Images . RESOURCE LINKS FOR THAILAND About Moving to Thailand A directory of articles, job resources, and links. We also have sections on ESL & overseas teaching jobs on our directory. Articles On Living & Investing in Thailand Articles On Living & Investing In Thailand - Also Including Articles On Real Estate In Thailand. Economy, Business & Real Estate for Thailand Including Banks for Thailand. Travel & Tourism for Thailand Information about hotels, restaurants, travel agents, guides and virtual tours. Banks in Thailand See banks of Thailand at our Banks of Asian Pacific section. Books On Living In Thailand A selection of books related to finding employment in Thailand, housing in Thailand and resources for living in Thailand. Includes selected cultural and travel books for Thailand. Investment in Thailand Thailand has a special place for the offshore investor/account holder. If your business is in this region, then you must consider Thailand for your banking needs. Be sure to research their stock market as well. Embassies & Consulates of Thailand Embassy Resources for Thailand - On our sister site EmbassyWorld. Newspapers & Media for Thailand Media & News Resources for Thailand Newspapers, magazines, online resources and news channels with current Thailand information. Hospitals in Thailand Hospitals Around The World by Region. Real Estate in Thailand Real Estate in Thailand. Expatriate Search Tools Expatriate Search Tools. Jobs in Thailand Part of our jobs pages, a complete page off links to help you with you job search. Links to Thailand Including search engines and education resources for Thailand. Real Estate In Thailand Current real estate listings of properties in Thailand. Maps of Thailand A large number of differing Thailand maps, including city maps. . Previous articles on Thailand The Best Way to Buy Thailand It’s easy for you to own land in Thailand. All you have to do is invest 40 million Baht (about $1 million) in a project considered “useful for Thailand” (not real estate, mind you). That minor detail out of the way, you then have to select the land you want from a list of approved areas (you didn’t think you could buy anywhere you want, did you?) Steenie Harvey Talks About Real Estate in Thailand Dragon-necked temples, night bazaars, misty mountains, floating markets hill-tribe villages, and hot springs - seven Thai wonderlands worth your attention. Thailand has a romantic heritage that always beguiles visitors: from the razzle-dazzle of Bangkok, to the floating markets and silk emporiums. Picture white-sand beaches, swaying coconut palms, and an evening chorus of cicadas. Rising from jade and turquoise waters are myriad islands girdled by coral gardens...bizarre limestone outcrops smothered in spinach-green vegetation. Yes, Thailand has four-million-dollar properties, but you’ll also find nice homes for well under $150,000. (And if you’re prepared to go off the beaten track, you’ll find them for below $25,000.) Even in beach resorts like Pattaya, you can buy a basic studio for under $17,000. In short, there are properties to meet most people’s pockets.  The Magic Of Phuket, Thailand When I first arrived in Thailand, I did not expect to fall in love. In fact, just the opposite was true. Driving into Bangkok for a three-day stopover on the way to Phuket Island, my first impression was one of shabby buildings, unsophisticated advertising billboards, and suffocating smog. In the superficial glance I was able to give it, (and through the lens of my Western cultural viewpoint), Bangkok looked like a tawdry imitation of what I had left behind. . Boom Time In Bangkok: Cheap Credit Fuels The Property Market ~ Boom Time In Bangkok: Cheap Credit Fuels The Property Market ~After years in the doldrums, Bangkok’s residential property market has re-awoken with a vengeance. Property prices in the capital surged by an average of 16% last year and the trend is set to continue, with new building projects dotting the city - Banks and finance houses that are lending money again for property purchases are fuelling the boom. .

Note:  You do not pay any money in this building unless you have overstayed the date stamped in your passport.  If you have overstayed; don't sweat it... as they'll just ask you to step to a desk in the rear of the room, where they'll fill out receipts, collect 500 baht (US$13) for each day you've stayed over, and send you on you way.  Nothing personal...just business.   Thank them, and exit the building.  In either case, you are now out of Thailand... in "no man's land"  and not yet checked into Cambodia. 

Outside of the Thailand Departure building, you'll walk east, over a flat, very small bridge called the "Friendship Bridge."  I think all bridges between Thailand and their bordering countries are called the "Friendship Bridge" as was the one at Nong Kai.

Looking east towards Cambodia, you'll see the border Archway about two blocks ahead.  Just to the right of it (South) you'll see a small building consisting of a flat roof over rows of blue chairs.  That's the Cambodia Arrival Building and waiting area.  That's your next stop.  So walk diagonally across the street, and over to that building; and head for the outdoor counter in front of the service window. 

If you get stopped by uniformed guards while crossing the street, these will likely not be real government employees, but imposter's in uniforms, looking to find suckers.  Just tell them:  "No, thank you....I can do it myself,"  and that you don't need their assistance.... and they'll let you be on your way.  You see, these people live in a symbiotic relationship, where they provide the appearance of Police, and are allowed to take whatever money they can scam from that location.  They lay in wait, preying on ignorant tourists, and pay a percentage of their take to someone higher up the food chain.  I've seen them happen onto a clueless tourist....they immediately leave "their post" and escort the person through the rest of their process...until they get some money.  It's either very personalized service, or a severe dereliction of duty.

Once over to the Cambodia Arrival building, notice the counter area, where you'll see several men standing "in wait."   Think:  "Vultures."   One will rush out to beat the others to you, and will act as if dealing with him IS the next part of your process.  It's not.  Just treat the vultures with respect, but be fully aware that none of them work for the government.  So just firmly keep telling them:   "No thank you, I can do this myself.  Then proceed to pick up one of the 8.5" x 11" forms stacked on the counter.   Fill out the form in block letters.   All the data you provide should be very easy to come up with.  Names, Nationality, Birth date, etc.  For point of entry, write Poi Pet.  Length of stay: 1 day.   Address in Thailand can be a simple as:  Bangkok or Korat.  After you've finished; sign the form in the space provided, and staple one photo where indicated.   Now comes the fun part...

Notice that the sign directly over the window very clearly states that the price for entry into Cambodia is twenty US dollars.   To the unsuspecting tourist, even the officials behind the window will try to convince them that the cost is 1,000 baht(US$26).  Don't give in to this pressure to just pay it...but instead,  if you'll look around, you'll see that there is a small bank teller window, just outside and to the right of the dark glass service windows. Go there and tell the girl that you'd like to purchase one American twenty dollar bill.  Depending upon currency rates, the cost for this should be about 770 baht.  Then, go back to the Visa service window; slide it open, and give the man your Passport; the form with your picture stapled to it; and the US $20 bill. 

Usually he will say "One thousand baht" as if that's the cost... making one last attempt at your money.   To this... just smile and say:  "No...it's $20 US... I know better"   ...and point to the large sign above that window... and smile.  He will then see that you are not going to fall for his scam....  take your cash and documents... and close the window.  Don't expect him to be happy about this, as he just lost 230 baht...which is about two days wages to most Thais.   Then, walk over to the blue seats, sit down (still smiling) and wait for about five minutes while they process your passport.

While waiting, I like to look around for any other "Falongs" who appear to be vulnerable travelers, and strike up a conversation.  If they are new to the game, I take a few minutes to tell them how to navigate the process without any "helpers," and save them some money too.   Usually in five minutes I can save someone $20 or $30... if they haven't already been taken in by a "helper."

Also, I've found that by talking with other Falongs; the people processing my documents have an incentive to hurry up, and get me out of there, before I cost them any more "easy money."  It's an effective motivator.  Otherwise, they could make me wait there in the heat for having not played their game.  After a few minutes waiting in the blue seats, a man will emerge and return your passport.  Look it over.  Find the Visa card they've put inside.  Make sure all is in order.  It'll be the only one not stamped "Used."   Usually it's all okay.

When you're sure it's good, leave the blue seats and head east towards the Casinos.   As you leave the covered blue seat area however, be aware of yet another scam laying in wait for you.  At the east end of the blue seats are some tables with men in uniforms, trying to look official.  They're not.  These too are crooks.  They will try to call you over, saying that you need a "Health Certificate."  Just smile and say:  "No thank you....I know better"  ...and walk on.  They'll usually just smile back at you... acknowledging that you've won that battle.  I paid 100 baht at that station on my first border run, and thought it was odd that they took my money and gave me a small piece of paper, but didn't ask any health questions.  Since then I've never paid another baht for a Health Certificate...and never been been stopped.

From the blue seat area walk east about three blocks.  This will put you at the entrance to the Casino with the Large Diamond directly over the road.  Now would be a good time to go into the Casino on your right, and use a nice clean, cool restroom.  Otherwise, continue on to the next small open-air building just beyond the casino. 

At the left side of that building sets a small table, with two or three "helpers" waiting for you.  These are also bogus. Ask them for a Cambodia Arrival-Departure card, which they are required to provide upon request... and then tell them:  "No thank you, I can do this myself"  ...and go sit down, and fill out the form.  Once done, get in line for either window and wait.  At the window, you'll give them your passport and Arrival-Departure card...smile for the camera.  They'll check you into Cambodia... stamp your passport and give it back to you.  At this station they often ask for 200, 300 or 400 baht; acting like that's the normal fee.  Again, this is bogus... so just smile and say, "No thank you, I know better," take your passport and exit the building to the east. 

Walk about ten paces east and you'll find yourself looking at a large circular intersection with a statue at it's center.  Welcome to Cambodia...or what I call "Hell on Earth." 

Look around you.  It's filthy, the air smells of raw sewage, and you won't go far before some guy will try to talk you into visiting the young girls at what they laughingly call "the chicken farm" where "private time" can be had for as low as 300 baht.  Where human dignity and morality has long since lost out to greedy adults, both men and women, very willing to sell the souls of their own children. At this point of the journey, I always have an overwhelming desire to get out of Cambodia as quickly as possible. 

So I immediately, I cross the street to the North, where you'll see a small building with a covered area, and several lines formed in front of service windows.  This is the Cambodia Departure building.  Get into one of those lines...wait about five more minutes...show your Passport, and again -  No money gets paid here either.    They'll stamp your Passport, check you out of Cambodia, give it back... and you're free to head back towards Thailand. 

Proceed back past the Archway, onto the "Friendship Bridge" ...crossing this time on the South side.  Whew!  ...you're now back in Thailand....which suddenly looks a lot better than before you left.

Directly after the bridge, you'll come to a small table where a Thai official will hand you a Thailand Arrival/Departure Card.  Take it to one of the standing counters under the covered area, and fill it out.  When complete, place it into your Passport next to the Cambodia Visa card, and get in line for the next window below the sign saying "Foreign Passports."  These lines should be nearly empty as compared to the Thai Visa lines (to the right) which are always full.  After waiting in line and showing your passport at the window, they will stamp it as having Arrived back into the Kingdom of Thailand, with a new date showing when you'll next need to do a border run.  Once they hand back your Passport; exit past the window and take a moment to check the date they stamped.  Now is a much better time to discover an error than later. 

If everything looks in order, and it usually does; you can now put your passport securely away, and start the short walk back to your car, about six blocks to the west.  Once there; give them your receipt...get into your car... look in the mirror and congratulate yourself on successfully running the gauntlet.  You are now a Veteran Border Runner.  Now you can get back to enjoying your adventures in Thailand. 

exchange rate: $US1-37.5Thb
 

Risky Business ~ A Story of Phuket, Thailand ~ by Steve Rosse - Saul retired to Phuket from New York City in 1991. At the age of 40 he already had under his belt a Master's Degree in Business Administration from New York University, three years of therapy with a strict Freudian psychiatrist, an amicable divorce from his wife Amy and a small fortune from the sale of his father's business. Feb./05

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