. Pulau Perhentian Besar .

The speedboat sliced through the crystal clear waters of the south china Sea, leaving a mesmerizing,  frothing white wake behind it; I had the taste of salt water on my lips and a feeling of excitement in my spine as the islands of Perhentian Kecil and Perhentian Basar rose up in the sea ahead  in a mass of lush greenery.

After a thirty minute, sometimes bumpy ride, I stepped onto the sparkling sand. I instantly felt my body and mind surrendering its claim on the civilized world; I was ready to embrace something more natural.  Pulau Perhentian Besar off the east coast of Malaysia is a tropical  paradise in every sense of the word. It takes you back to a place that is somehow buried deep in your subconscious and that instinctively you know you have missed.

There are no roads and no cars. The calmness is invigorating to your senses. The sounds of the tranquil days and peaceful nights are many - gentle waves rolling softly on the beach, the birds in the dark jungle surrounding you, and like minded people enjoying life as it should be enjoyed. No stress, no discomfort. During the day there are activities to keep you busy, if you so desire; or you can do what I did most of the time - relaxed by the sea, read or ate…..and …..slept….well you get the picture.

Snorkelling or diving anyone?
The islands all house resorts that can arrange a half day snorkelling trip to the nearby coral reefs for about 30 RM,(US$8) which is worth doing.  We boarded a small speed boat at 0930 one morning, about 15 of us, and  headed off to a nearby bay anchoring in it’s fathomless blue waters, the beach startlingly white against the backdrop of the thick green foliage of the jungle.  Everyone was eager to jump into the water, some with snorkels and flippers, others, children included, with their life jackets. 
I felt the warm clear waters of this island paradise engulf and welcome me – almost like receiving a big warm hug!

I was immediately struck by the number and variety of colourful fish all around me –big, small, striped, purple, yellow, all colours of the rainbow. Simply stunning!– The intricate coral formations seemed to change colour before me as I swam above them.  A manta ray glided gracefully past, a small fin shark lurked nearby…causing a few anxious moments!

David, from Penang, who is an experienced diver told us; “The visibility and diversity of the marine life here is very impressive; the best I have seen in a while”.
I think everyone agreed with him.

We went to four different sites on our outing, all beautiful, all unspoilt.  Turtle Bay sadly had no turtles nearby for us to wonder at, and after three hours or so we headed back to the resort, tired but refreshed.  Definitely an unforgettable experience.

How about a Jungle Trek?
I woke up one morning feeling the need to be Tarzan! And with the jungle right outside my door, there was nothing to stop me. 

Arwana Perhentian Eco Resort has a network of jungle treks; the paths were slippery from the overnight rain and there were rocks to climb over, massive tree roots to trip over, and an eerie atmosphere when the sun disappeared from view.  The path was a challenge, winding, somewhat steep and requiring good, sturdy shoes.  Bird sounds were abundant, supposedly too snakes, lizards and spiders.  I felt deliciously alone; anxious but excited, not knowing what to expect.  The air was highly oxygenated which gives it an unusual and special smell, and a heady feeling of pure delight.  Eventually I made my way out to the other side of the Island – back to civilization and reality.  Although I was probably only on my jungle sojourn for an hour it seemed longer.  Time stood still.

Getting There
The Perhentian Islands are 20kms off the North East coast of Malaysia in the South China Sea.
The best way to get to Perhentian Besar is to first take a flight from Kuala Lumpar to Kota Bharu.  Both Air Asia (approx. RM122 one-way:US$35) and Malaysia Airlines (approx RM180 one-way:US$50) have direct flights here (about 45mins).  From Kota Bharu airport you can take a taxi to Kuala Besut, which takes about an hour (RM50:US$13– you can share this with other travellers).
Once at Kuala Besut, you will need to board a boat for the trip to the island.  A fast speedboat, which I would recommend, will cost you RM60:US$16) return and takes 30 minutes. The boat will take you directly to your resort.

Where to Stay
There are a number of places to stay on Perhentian Besar, ranging from very basic fan chalets(from about RM30:US$8 per night), right up to luxury resorts offering first class comfort.
Arwana Perhentian Eco Resort and Beach Chalet (www.arwanaperhentian.com.my), is one of the newest resorts on the Island, having opened in 2004. It offers a wide range of comfortable accomodation options, from standard rooms, to beach front luxury chalets.
The location is wonderful; on a large and calm bay (Telak Dalam) that has white sandy beach. If you want peace and relaxation, it’s the perfect place to be.

When to Come
The best time to come to Perhentian Besar is from the end of February until late in October. During other times many of the resorts are closed as rough seas do not allow regular speedboat services to and from the island.

Peace is Yours
I came to Perhentian Besar for relaxation, tranquility, and to be close to the wonders of nature. I was not disappointed.This particular piece of paradise  gives you back what was yours all along; a feeling of complete and utter peace. It gives you the space and the freedom to find that part of you thatyou know is still there, but that you so long to rediscover.