Malaysian
paradise: no planes, trains, or automobiles
By Dr.
Theodore
The speedboat
sliced through the crystal clear waters of the south china Sea, leaving
a mesmerizing, frothing white wake behind it; I had the taste of
salt water on my lips and a feeling of excitement in my spine as the islands
of Perhentian Kecil and Perhentian Basar rose up in the sea ahead
in a mass of lush greenery.
No high rise
buildings or ugly barren land to spoil the image of perfection. As we neared
land I could see that the vegetation overflowed down to the water’s edge,
disguising the low bungalows and chalets nestled amongst the jungle.
After a
thirty minute, sometimes bumpy ride, I stepped onto the sparkling sand.
I instantly felt my body and mind surrendering its claim on the civilized
world; I was ready to embrace something more natural.
Pulau Perhentian
Besar off the east coast of Malaysia is a tropical paradise in every
sense of the word. It takes you back to a place that is somehow buried
deep in your subconscious and that instinctively you know you have missed.
There are
no roads and no cars.
The calmness is invigorating to your senses. The sounds of the tranquil
days and peaceful nights are many - gentle waves rolling softly on the
beach, the birds in the dark jungle surrounding you, and like minded people
enjoying life as it should be enjoyed.
No stress,
no discomfort. During the day there are activities to keep you busy, if
you so desire; or you can do what I did most of the time - relaxed by the
sea, read or ate…..and …..slept….well you get the picture.
Snorkelling
or diving anyone? The islands
all house resorts that can arrange a half day snorkelling trip to the nearby
coral reefs for about 30 RM,(US$8) which is worth doing. We boarded
a small speed boat at 0930 one morning, about 15 of us, and headed
off to a nearby bay anchoring in it’s fathomless blue waters, the beach
startlingly white against the backdrop of the thick green foliage of the
jungle.
Everyone
was eager to jump into the water, some with snorkels and flippers,
others, children included, with their life jackets.
I felt the
warm clear waters of this island paradise engulf and welcome me – almost
like receiving a big warm hug!
I was immediately
struck by the number and variety of colourful fish all around me –big,
small, striped, purple, yellow, all colours of the rainbow. Simply stunning!–
The intricate coral formations seemed to change colour before me as I swam
above them.
A manta
ray glided gracefully past, a small fin shark lurked nearby…causing
a few anxious moments! David, from Penang, who is an experienced diver
told us; “The visibility and diversity of the marine life here is very
impressive; the best I have seen in a while”.
I think everyone
agreed with him.
We went to
four different sites on our outing, all beautiful, all unspoilt.
Turtle Bay sadly had no turtles nearby for us to wonder at, and after three
hours or so we headed back to the resort, tired but refreshed. Definitely
an unforgettable experience.
How about
a Jungle Trek? I woke up
one morning feeling the need to be Tarzan! And with the jungle right outside
my door, there was nothing to stop me.
Arwana Perhentian
Eco Resort has a network of jungle treks; the paths were slippery from
the overnight rain and there were rocks to climb over, massive tree roots
to trip over, and an eerie atmosphere when the sun disappeared from view.
The path
was a challenge, winding, somewhat steep and requiring good, sturdy
shoes. Bird sounds were abundant, supposedly too snakes, lizards
and spiders.
I felt deliciously
alone; anxious but excited, not knowing what to expect. The air was
highly oxygenated which gives it an unusual and special smell, and a heady
feeling of pure delight. Eventually I made my way out to the other
side of the Island – back to civilization and reality. Although I
was probably only on my jungle sojourn for an hour it seemed longer.
Time stood still.
Getting
There The Perhentian
Islands are 20kms off the North East coast of Malaysia in the South China
Sea.
The best way
to get to Perhentian Besar is to first take a flight from Kuala Lumpar
to Kota Bharu.
Both Air Asia
(approx. RM122 one-way:US$35) and Malaysia Airlines (approx RM180 one-way:US$50)
have direct flights here (about 45mins).
From Kota Bharu airport you
can take a taxi to Kuala Besut, which takes about an hour (RM50:US$13–
you can share this with other travellers). Once at Kuala Besut, you will
need to board a boat for the trip to the island. A fast speedboat,
which I would recommend, will cost you RM60:US$16) return and takes 30
minutes. The boat will take you directly to your resort.
Where to
Stay There are
a number of places to stay on Perhentian Besar, ranging from very basic
fan chalets(from about RM30:US$8 per night), right up to luxury resorts
offering first class comfort.
Arwana Perhentian
Eco Resort and Beach Chalet (www.arwanaperhentian.com.my), is one of the
newest resorts on the Island, having opened in 2004. It offers a wide range
of comfortable accomodation options, from standard rooms, to beach front
luxury chalets.
The location
is wonderful; on a large and calm bay (Telak Dalam) that has white sandy
beach. If you want peace and relaxation, it’s the perfect place to be.
When to
Come The best time
to come to Perhentian Besar is from the end of February until late in October.
During other times many of the resorts are closed as rough seas do not
allow regular speedboat services to and from the island.
Peace is
Yours I came to
Perhentian Besar for relaxation, tranquility, and to be close to the wonders
of nature. I was not disappointed.This particular piece of paradise
gives you back what was yours all along; a feeling of complete and utter
peace. It gives you the space and the freedom to find that part of you
thatyou know is still there, but that you so long to rediscover.
