Fairground floats .

Gascony, bathed in sun for the better of part of nine months of the year and a climate akin to that of the Napa Valley in California, lends itself to the enjoyment of almost all year round al-fresco dining and the consumption of stunning local wines. Located in the south west corner of France the area is commonly referred to as the 'other south of France!' My own special bit of Gascony, a small, tranquil village on the western edge of the Gers and Landes departments, is close to the Pyrenees - for adventure and near enough to Bordeaux - for retail therapy.  A perfect habitat.

This year, spring arrived early and quickly changed into a long, hot and languorous summer moving well into September, with no fall in sight!  Spring  brings the farmers out in full force, planting and sewing anew, while vines are clipped to resemble rows of one-legged dancing ballerinas, fruit trees are pruned and gardens are turned and fussed over in order to bring forth the bounties of summer.

The Aignan fete brings out locals and tourists alike, to feast their souls on gastromic delights accompanied by the sounds of “Brass Attack”, the local brass band.  Aignan, normally a sleepy little village, close to the birthplace of d’Artagnan (Lupiac) produces red and white wines of outstanding quality under the Cotes Appellation Controllee of Saint Mont.  Attracted by a good fare from the preceding successful harvest, the local population will swell to accommodate a crowd bordering on 3000.  It’s an excellent start to becoming acquainted with the Gascon love of life.

Shortly after the departure of March, we ease into Paques (Easter) with events, both religious and commercial, taking place throughout the region, including that not to be missed trek to Lourdes or even a walk along the ancient pilgrim trails of the route to Compostello!  Following Easter is Pentecot, (Whitsun) with the most “infamous” of local fetes taking place in Vic Fezensac.  “Vic”, as it is known locally, hosts numerous festivals throughout the year, including Jazz, Blues, Reggae, Caribbean and its well known night markets, but it is the Pentecot festival that everyone in France knows best!

The lovely village of Nogaro and Auch has been known to play host to upwards of 200,000 guests over the Pentecot 4 day event!  Yes, try catering to 200,000 in an area the size of a small rural mid-west town.  It overflows at the seams with tents springing up on every available public spot and caravans and Winnebagoes lined up infantry style on every road leading in and out of the village for miles!  You will find a bodega (wine and food booth) on every street corner and in between, and  theatrical stages set up for both invited and uninvited artists and musicians!

I should also add that almost every sane enterprise in town not only closes up for this event, but also boards up “hurricane’ style, shop windows and door too – not to fend off hooligans but pure abandoned revellers.  This is a free loving, music loving young crowd …. not for the faint hearted!
Even as a mature 50 year old, who has seen much of the world, it still makes for a very interesting visit.

On a more genteel scale, we move on to a local event known as the “Course Landaise” - usually one is held in every village from May until November.  This is still called a bull fight, but is one of the much more humane forms of the sport, with the two most famous ones being the Spanish Corrida, where you have the Matador and the Picadors and the ill-fated bull and the Course Portuguese, with the Matador on horseback and the ill-fated bull.  This gascon version, the Course Landaise, is more of a dance of courage and bravado by young novillados (young men and woman) who display their acrobatic prowess in front of a charging, horned, young bull!  No killing – just the occasional toss of a body into the air and the artful hand spring and vaulting of a young novillado over the fence!  A show of daring, acrobatic agility (crazy sense of sport) and great fun for the whole family.  Bullfighting is probably not appreciated by those of us who have not grown up with the sport, but it can still captivate you.  You cannot fail to be drawn in by the audiences loud appreciation of the skill and bravado displayed by the novillados. 

From May to October the villages are bustling with Gascon life.  Be-decked with flags and banners and outdoor tables and chairs.  Large marquees are erected on the village soccer field in preparation of the week long summer fetes soon to be filled with guests sampling the local Gascon cuisine washed down with copious quantities of wine.  Stages are built to house the musicians who will perform to the crowd and accompany the participants of the late night bals (discos), while mini portable arenas are assembled to host their sporting events and general fanfare.

This year in July,I made the mistake of offering a guest a ride to Mont de Marsan, during the fete “La Madeleine”.  If you think that you missed out on Woodstock you should put Mont de Marsan on your calendar for next year!  Anything and everything goes, together with all three types of bull fights, horse racing events, all night tapas bars and discos, street partying and parades and musical events 24 hrs a day x 5 days!   The whole town just closes down and then takes another 3 days off to clean up! 

Another event worth seeing in July, if you have the stamina and time  is Mirande’s huge four day country and western festival, featuring a host of international entertainers and musicians.  In addition to the music there is a hot air ballooning event, antique car show and it attracts enough Harley Davidson afficionados to make you think that all the Harley’s ever sold must now be in France!

In August, Panjas, a small local village bursts on the scene with its four day event.  This year my partner and I attended the event with our guests Liz and Paul from Ireland and their four young daughters.  The evening, as usual began with an aperitif.  In this case it was called “Panjy Juice”, a concoction of sparkling wine and armagnac and a touch of peach juice.  Can be very powerful indeed when drunk in quantity!
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