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In 1492, when Columbus spotted the coral-rimmed island he later named Hispaniola, he proclaimed, “This is the fairest land under Heaven.”  I have to agree.  Home to the highest mountain range in the Caribbean, the Dominican Republic—which shares the island of Hispaniola with Haiti—offers some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.  Columbus’s journal is full of descriptions of this beautiful island paradise.  But Columbus wasn’t looking for verdant valleys or turquoise waters and palm-lined beaches.  He was on a mission to find gold. 

Noticing that the Taíno Indians who lived there were adorned with gold ornaments and jewelry from the deposits of gold found in Hispaniola’s rivers, Columbus must have thought he’d found the mother lode, and he hurried back to Spain to announce his discovery…and acquire a larger expedition. 

By 1515, though, the Spaniards realized that the gold deposits of Hispaniola were being exhausted.  Not long after that, Cortez made his conquest of Mexico, with its fabulous riches of silver.  Almost overnight, the colonies established by the Spaniards on Hispaniola were abandoned.  Only a few thousand “Spanish” settlers remained behind (mostly the offspring of Spanish fathers and Taíno mothers).  The cattle and pigs Columbus had introduced to the island had multiplied rapidly, so the remaining inhabitants turned their attention to raising livestock to supply the Spanish ships passing by, en route to the richer colonies elsewhere.  Hispaniola’s importance as a colony declined.  So much so that the Spanish didn’t even bother to try to instill Catholicism there, as they did elsewhere.

“No gold, no God,” says a friend who lives in the Dominican Republic.  “There’s not a huge religious influence here…so there is not a lot of guilt. This is a sexy place, and the local people here are flagrant with their sexuality.  You should see some of their dance moves!

Luxurious digs
Some of the most popular tourist destinations in the Dominican Republic are found along the southern coast between Santo Domingo and La Romana.  Here, you’ll find Boca Chica, where you can wade 100 yards from shore in crystal-clear waters and still be only waist deep with nothing but soft clean sand underfoot—perfect for families with children.  But the nightlife is what Boca Chica is known for; it’s a swinging singles destination.

Further east along the southern coast is the immense Casa de Campo—the granddaddy of all Caribbean resort/residential communities—with its famous Teeth of the Dog, Pete Dye-designed golf course, considered the class of the Caribbean and ranked number 23 in the world by Golf magazine. 

On the eastern tip of the island is the upscale Punta Cana area, with blinding white-sand beaches and emerald-green Caribbean waters.  Punta Cana is quickly eclipsing the rest of the country in terms of luxurious digs and high prices.

On the northern Atlantic Coast, the 30-mile stretch from Puerto Plata to Sosua and Cabrete is where you’ll find most tourist attractions.  This area has long been popular with expats, too, and still offers attractive property prices.

Heating up in Samana 
The Samana Peninsula, situated along the northern coast, about 130 miles east of Puerto Plata, is the up-and-coming hot spot in the Dominican Republic..

Las Terrenas is the most popular town on the peninsula—especially with Europeans.  This area is currently experiencing an influx of expats who are coming here to live.  It is estimated that in the past few years the local population has grown from 3,000 to 20,000, with about 5,000 of that number being foreigners.  The French, in particular, have put their indelible stamp on the local economy, opening patisseries, boulangeries, specialty boutiques, and spurring a boom in the real estate market.  There is also a large Italian and German contingent, but as yet, few U.S. expats. 

I suspect that will all change, but right now, the Samana Peninsula is hard to get to.  There are daily flights from Santo Domingo to Portillo (just a short distance from Las Terrenas) at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. daily.  It takes five hours to drive from Santo Domingo.  Options are to fly into Puerto Plata or Punta Cana and charter a flight or drive from there.  Drive time from Puerto Plata is almost four hours; eight hours from Punta Cana.

A new international airport is being built at nearby El Catey, and a new highway from Santo Domingo to Las Terrenas, slated for completion in early 2008, will reportedly reduce the drive time to an hour.  The airport, which is supposed to open later this year, will bring in the tourists.  Then this sleepy place will change for the better—or for the worse, depending on your perspective.

The beaches along the peninsula’s 90-mile shoreline are mostly uninhabited.  According to a friend who lives here, that’s because the locals don’t want to live near the beaches, but prefer to live close together in towns inland, away from the wear and tear of salt and sea. 

The beaches are solitary.  There are lots of large, sheltered U-shaped bays with long stretches of honey-colored sand, ringed by gorgeous, tall coconut palms.  The blue water is gentle and warm.  And because this area is harder to get to than other parts of the island, prices here are lower than you’ll find further west along the north coast or near Punta Cana. 

What cost property here?
Across the road from the beach in Las Terrenas, a new apartment complex called Don Cesar is being built.  A luxurious two-bedroom, 1,000-square-foot (not including the ample terrace) apartment here, with an ocean view, can be had for $320,000.   Some older apartments are just down the road.  These are built of wood in the typical Caribbean style, with big balconies overlooking a landscaped common area and with ocean views. Two large condo units are for sale here, with two levels and three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a huge balcony.  They come fully furnished.  One is priced at $230,000 and the other at $255,000.- Article Continued Below -
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