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had been in Ankara about a year when I became pregnant. Every Turk
I knew, friends and coworkers, schoolteachers and housekeepers, all had
the same reaction. Smiling, they would shrug and say, "It's a fertile
country". Then the teasing would begin. Perhaps it was
the water I drank from the fountain in ancient Ephesus, the one tour guides
tout as bringing luck in love or procreation. Or some fertility talisman
I had unknowingly stroked in an antique shop. As an Appalachian fiddle
player’s daughter, I was no stranger to superstition. I had witnessed
my father slipping a rattlesnake’s rattle into the hollow of his fiddle
to “keep the devil out”. So I went along with the soothsaying.
After all, in Ankara it seemed I was surrounded by mystics. I could
hardly drink a cup of coffee without someone offering to read my future
in the grounds.
I was looking
forward to having a baby in a country where motherhood is honoured and
where breast-feeding has always been encouraged. Turkey is, after
all, the land of Cybele, the ancient multi-breasted mother goddess worshipped
in Anatolia by the Phrygians in the 8th century B.C.
Nonetheless,
paying homage to the shamans of modern medicine and appeasing the gods
of extended family, I travelled to New York for a sonogram, which showed
in my second or third month that everything seemed normal. Being
thirty-six, I discussed with my American doctor the risks of pregnancy
at my age and whether or not an amniocentesis was necessary. Such
procedures, routinely done in the States, were at that time not so routine
in Ankara. I decided to forgo it, ignoring the suggestion of a worried
relative to remain in the States to have the baby. Bearing a child
is a natural, universal experience, I thought, my own mother successfully
delivered all 13 of her children without benefit of sonogram or amniocentesis.
I was trusting fate.
And I was trusting
the many people around me in Ankara, who took such good care of me.
Among these were the kapici and his family. Literally "doorman”,
the kapici was more of a concierge or superintendent in charge of
building maintenance, a person who performed daily grocery shopping for
each tenant. His wife helped out with housekeeping duties.
His youngest daughter, Zübeyde, a wide-eyed and energetic fifteen
yearold, ran errands for us.
Zübeyde
was a window into another way of life, of the Anatolian village and its
earthy simplicity. I wanted to paint rural scenes and soon was invited
to Zübeyde’s village, about an hour’s drive outside Ankara.
But when we arrived, the car’s trunk packed with art supplies, I quickly
forgot the landscape, riveted to scenes of village women: making
yoghurt in clay amphoras, stirring pots over an open hearth, kneading dough
on a broad hand-carved board smooth from years of pressing flour and water
together. Female village life fascinated me. Hardy
women performed backbreaking farm work and housework, hoeing the fields,
hauling water from the well, endlessly cleaning and preparing food.
Then as the sky grew dark their hands would move in the rhythmic, concentrated
flutter of crocheting or tatting, looping and knotting thread and beads
into graceful lace trim for linens and headscarves.
When I had
just begun to show my pregnancy around the fourth month I ran into Zübeyde,
her mother and one of her aunts in the apartment hallway. They
smiled, tested my breasts and belly and conferred amongst themselves, laughing
and shaking their heads. When I asked Zübeyde to translate she
held up two fingers and said, "Ikiz! Ikiz gelecek...
twins will come." Twins? No way. My New York doctor hadn’t
mentioned twins. I tried to explain, in broken Turkish, how I knew
they were mistaken. The women listened to me politely and then dismissed
the results as they said goodbye. “Insallah, ikiz gelecek, insallah,”
they said, twins are coming if God wills it.
I was suddenly
fed up with these charming villagers. Earlier that day I had been on the
phone trying to convince my worried, over-protective older sister that
I was going to be all right, that Ankara was a modern city with perfectly
adequate hospitals, good doctors and medical facilities. Perhaps
I was trying to convince myself, too. And then, any illusions I might
have had about where I was evaporated. These toothless women wearing
village salvar, loosely gathered slacks under mismatched printed
skirts, and the beaded veils that so enchanted me just a few months ago
now worried me with nonsense. Who were they to give me a prognosis,
I pouted. Feeling me up, predicting twins with their insallah
and masallah - God willing, God protect me.
A few months
later I missed my prenatal appointment, having lost my balance since my
belly was so huge, fallen and broken my ankle. When I finally went
to my local hospital for a sonogram, I was in my eighth month. I
understood the Turkish technician to say, “Here’s one head... and
here’s the other head.” Fearing I might be bearing a monster, I asked
her if the baby had two heads. She looked at me very seriously,
and said, “Twins. You don't know? You’re having twins.”
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NANCY LUNSFORD
is an artist presently living in Brooklyn, New York. Born and raised
in Southern Appalachia, Nancy augmented her early education in mountain
folklore with a degree in Art History and English Literature from New York
University. She lived in Ankara, Turkey, from 1986 to 1991, exhibiting
her work at Urart Galeri. Three years in Indonesia, six years in
Turkey and an abiding interest in non-Western art forms have all contributed
to her development as an artist and as a citizen of the world.
Article abridged
and excerpted from 'Tales From The ExPat Harem'' |
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The author:
Nancy Lunsford
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..
©2006 by Nancy Lunsford.
Article abridged and excerpted with
permission from 'Tales From The Expat Harem: Foreign Women in Modern Turkey'',
©2006 by editors Anastasia M. Ashman and Jennifer Eaton Gökmen.
This nonfiction anthology by 29
expatriate women from five nations describes the assimilation of women
scholars, artists, missionaries, journalists, entrepreneurs and Peace Corps
volunteers into Turkish life and culture.
For more information please visit
www.expatharem.com
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