.
Coastal
Chile - great golfing and surfing, endless beaches, and properties for
less than $20,000
By Lee
Harrison
|
|
September 2006
.
US$1 equals
534 Chilean pesos
Rolling down
the new coastal highway at 75 mph, I was continually surprised by the breathtaking
views of the rocky Pacific shoreline, the majestic cliffs, the wide beaches,
and the hidden sandy coves. Reminding me more of California than
anywhere else in South America I’ve travelled, the Chilean coast enjoys
much the same climate and geography. But, while the quality of life
and the infrastructure are comparable, Chile’s cost of living and property
prices are dramatically lower than in southern California.
Viña
del Mar is the primary coastal attraction in Chile. With its wide,
white-sand beaches, luxury hotels, oceanfront apartment buildings, and
excellent restaurants, Viña reminded me of a larger version of Punta
del Este in Uruguay.
But the most
pleasant surprise for me was the city of Viña del Mar, which sits
inland adjacent to the beach resort. Its turn-of-the-century architecture,
grand buildings, and busy shopping district are clean and well organized,
with a flourishing year-round population of a little more than 350,000.
Viña del Mar would stand alone as a great place to live even if
the resort weren’t there. Walking among its streets and parks, I
enjoyed the occasional stop at a café for cappuccinos and pastries,
the large midday meal (almuerzo) at one of the many great restaurants,
and strolling through the numerous walkways and hidden malls.
And perhaps
the best part for me is that Viña doesn’t close in the winter (unlike
Punta del Este), so no matter when you choose to come to the resort, the
adjacent city will be open for amenities.
The beach at
Viña del Mar is well maintained and lined with some of the country’s
best restaurants, bars, and houses. And things in Viña del Mar are
surprisingly cheap—given the quality of everything the city has to offer.
In downtown
Viña del Mar, we looked at a two-storey house with four bedrooms
and a garage, situated on a quiet street, within walking distance of the
downtown attractions. The owner is asking $144,000. and can be called
directly at: tel. (56)32-681-001.
A few miles
up the coast from Viña del Mar proper, you’ll find the neighboring
community of Reñaca, which is more upscale, with gleaming new luxury
apartment projects along the shoreline. Prices here were a bit higher
than in the center of Viña del Mar.
For the
best value in the area
A little farther
on, I found what turned out to be my favorite part of this area, a town
called Concón (sometimes written Con Con). It has a more old-fashioned
feel, with its waterfront seafood restaurants and lower, slightly older,
seaside apartments. To me, Concón represented the best value
in the Viña del Mar market and it’s only a five-minute shuttle ride
from the action of Viña del Mar. I looked at an apartment
here with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a wide terrace overlooking
the ocean. Price: $93,000.
I also saw
a house for sale with a quiet street to the rear and the ocean to the front.
It has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a deck overlooking the sea.
The asking price is $136,700. Contact María Angélica
Henríquez (English-speaking) by e-mail at: AHenriquez2004@vtr.net;
website: www.angelicahenriquez.cl.
The small,
seaside village of Algarrobo is situated on a cove with calm, blue waters.
Its streets are quiet and clean and it has sufficient business infrastructure
- you don’t have to travel to remain stocked up on life’s necessities.
The only thing that detracted from Algarrobo was the presence of condo
projects rising in the distance. Truth be told, the weekend vacation
trade will probably cause an improvement in the town’s tourist infrastructure,
but I still didn’t like it.
On the other
hand, we found the best restaurant on the coast here - Los Patitos.
Here we enjoyed fillet mignon, their famous parmesan clams, salad, mashed
potatoes, and drinks for $26. The food and service were excellent.
We also found
the best deal on a beachfront home in Algarrobo. The house has 1,450 square
feet with four bedrooms (two ensuite) and three bathrooms. It sits
on a small lagoon, with the beach about 10 feet away. Price: $159,000.
For more information, tel. (56)9239-3694.
For the
golfers
Rocas de Santo
Domingo was a pleasing, small residential community that had little in
the way of commercial establishments (two supermarkets and a bakery), but
was among the best places I saw for full- or part-time living. Along
with the beach, the town has a great 27-hole golf course and country club.
Santo Domingo was originally a planned resort community founded in 1942,
which explains its well-organized feel. The homes here have well-manicured
gardens under the shade of giant eucalyptus trees.
For any serious
shopping you’ll need to cross the Maipo River to San Antonio, about 10
minutes away. I saw my favorite condos on the coast here - Paseo
del Mar. The three- and four-bedroom homes run from 1,300 square feet to
1,500 square feet and are located on the beach with great views.
The two-story condos are circled around a nice pool and a green, well-landscaped
lawn. Prices start at around $100,000 and my favourite four-bedroom
model was $137,000.
Another property
on Calle Bella Vista has 1,400 square feet of living space with three bedrooms
and two bathrooms and the asking price is $159,000. We also looked
at a house with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a large, wraparound
deck with an ocean view (one block from the beach), selling for $177,900.
A large lot in town with an ocean view will set you back $74,900.
Fresh seafood
and world-class surfing
We parked
the car and walked out onto the cliff at Punta de Lobos - just outside
the town of Pichilemú - so we could watch the surfers take on the
giant waves. The surf is unlike anything I’ve seen in any country
up and down the Pacific coast. The wide, black-sand beaches stretch
for miles in this area. The surf is not for beginners, however, there
are a number of memorial crosses on the cliffs overlooking the rocky sections
of the shoreline. Pichilemú (pee chee leh moo) is the
unofficial surfing capital of Chile - home to surf schools and frequent
competitions. Along the waterfront you’ll find a number of reasonably
priced, open-air seaside restaurants serving fresh seafood and cocktails
at lower prices compared to the rest of the coast. We whiled away
hours on the waterfront watching the sunbathers and surfers.
Aside from
the beaches and the waves, however, the town is a little on the shabby
side and not up to the normal Chilean standard of clean, tidy villages.
Without high rises, casinos, or “fine dining” venues, it has a rather rustic
ambiance typical to surfing villages. That said, it has several well-stocked
supermarkets and bakeries.
I found some
condos for less than $20,000 in town, but if you’re going to come this
far you may as well be right on the beach given the low cost. For example,
I found a two-bedroom, two-bathroom cabin directly on the sand in a gated
complex. The asking price was $61,800. For more information, contact the
owner at tel. (56)978-93-094. Another house I saw with 3,100 square feet
(off the beach) was selling for $93,600.
Raw land is
inexpensive, too. There are a group of 6,450 square foot lots on the beach
with a starting price of $11,200; and some large, ocean-view lots of 1¼
acres are available at Punta de Lobos for $69,200. Contact Propiedades
Pichilemú, tel. (56)72-841-974 or (56)97-781-501. This agent seemed
to have the majority of the listings in the area.
A private owner
is offering 8,600-square-foot lots on the beach starting at $16,800 between
Pichilemú and Punta de Lobos. The owner said he gives a discount
for purchasing more than one. From what I could see, he had about
10 lots available.
Raw land is
inexpensive, too. There are a group of 6,450 square foot lots on the beach
with a starting price of $11,200; and some large, ocean-view lots of 1¼
acres are available at Punta de Lobos for $69,200.
-
Article
Continued Below -
.
|
|
| Retire
Overseas! |
| Learn about
the world's six best places to live or retire. |
| Live like
royalty on $17 a day. |
| Own an exotic
beachfront getaway for $35,000. Or a romantic pied-a-terre for under $60,000.
Enjoy fine restaurant dining for $7 per person. Employ a maid or gardener
for $2 a day. Buy comprehensive health insurance for $20 per month. Get
the details in your FREE report now. |
|
|
|
..
-
Article Continued From Above -
.
| Contact
Propiedades Pichilemú, tel. (56)72-841-974 or (56)97-781-501. This
agent seemed to have the majority of the listings in the area.
A private owner
is offering 8,600-square-foot lots on the beach starting at $16,800 between
Pichilemú and Punta de Lobos. The owner said he gives a discount
for purchasing more than one. From what I could see, he had about 10 lots
available.
The greatest
little city in Chile
Nestled in
a heavily wooded region of pines, the city of Concepción is reminiscent
of the U.S.’s Pacific northwest, right down to the resemblance between
its river Bio Bio and the northwest’s famous Columbia River. Concepción
exhibits the life and vibrancy common to many university towns—from the
street musicians to the abundant cafés, bookshops, and restaurants.
A clean city of 380,000 people, it’s home to two orchestras, a music conservatory,
and several theaters. The cost of living is lower in Concepción
than in most of Chile’s other desirable locations.
There are new
two- and three-bedroom apartments for sale atop a wooded hill in a residential
area on the edge of town. This neighborhood is about five minutes from
downtown Concepción, and it serves as what I’d call a bedroom community
for the city. The apartments have a view of the river, the city of Concepción,
and the ocean. Prices start at $96,000 for 1,070 square feet. For more
information contact Roxana Jara, e-mail: RJara@gyl.cl.
I also saw
an apartment with a view of the main square in the city. The property is
1,450 square
feet with
three bedrooms and a maid’s quarters. Price: $84,200. Tel. (56)41-246-
511.
There’s a large
house for sale in the wooded residential Andalue district of San Pedro—a
suburb of Concepción. It’s almost 2,700 square feet with four bedrooms
and a nice yard. Price: $178,000.
For more information,
contact the owner at: tel. (56)41-391-502.
In the rental
market, there’s a small furnished apartment centered on the Plaza de Armas,
renting
for $543 per
month. A few blocks further away from the square, a similar apartment is
$300 a
month. Both
are available through Yus Propiedades, tel. (56)41-231 -279.
|
| Sidebars |
Stop here for
sex
[As in most of Latin America, hotels
provide lodging for the night. Motels, on the other hand, are where one
goes to have sex. They charge by the hour, discreetly hide your car while
you’re there, and sometimes offer a complimentary glass of champagne or
hors d’oeuvres. They exist as a venue for unmarried couples who typically
live with their parents until they’re married, and for adults having affairs.
The motels in Concepción are just north of town, before you get
to Penco.
Along the same lines, you can expect
to find prostitutes in a night club]; if it’s dancing you’re looking for,
try a discoteca; for a drink, go to a bar.
The ins and outs of buying your
Chilean property
You do not need to be a resident
to buy property in Chile. Once a price is agreed upon, the buyer signs
a promesa de venta, and normally leaves a 10% deposit, which is held by
the realtor, to be returned once the sale is completed.
Your attorney will then perform
a title search, to verify that the title is clear of any liens or mortgages.
This takes 20 to 30 days in some locations, 30 to 60 days in others.
As far as I can tell, this is not
due to any difference in the process, but rather a difference in custom
among the lawyers—some of whom can do this quickly.
The compra-venta is then signed
in the presence of a notary, and at that time the payment—normally in the
form of a certified check—is given to, and retained by, the notary.
The title is registered at the property
registry, which puts it cleanly into the buyer’s name. The seller then
takes a certification that the property was successfully transferred to
the notary, who releases the funds.
Real estate commission is usually
4%, which is split between the buyer and the seller.
How to become a resident
Unlike some Latin American counties
that have a process whereby you can apply directly for permanent residency,
Chile requires a period of temporary residence first. You can apply for
your temporary visa in a Chilean consulate in your home country or at the
Departamento de Extranjería y Migración in Santiago. You
can even make this application by mail, using the forms available on their
website. There is no cost to obtain this visa and there is no minimum income
requirement.
After a year, you may then apply
for permanent residency by submitting the form via certified mail. As a
non-citizen resident, your visa will expire if you leave the country for
more than 180 days. For more information, see: www.extranjeria.gov.cl.
Don’t forget Rover!
You will be able to bring your pets
to Chile. You’ll need a health certificate signed by your vet and a rabies
certificate as appropriate. There is no quarantine period after arrival.
So what’s the downside of living
in Chile?
First of all there’s the smog in
Santiago. As of June, 2006 the city had issued a dozen air emergency warnings
for the year. Also, there are places on the coast that have a constant
breeze, which can be strong. Some may find this objectionable.
Finally there’s the instant coffee.
You’ll be surprised at how many otherwise nice restaurants will serve it.
If you want a good cup of real coffee, make sure you ask first.
Is Chile for you?
Chile is a First World country.
To some, the efficiency, diversity, and top-grade infrastructure will ease
the transition to a new life abroad, due to the country’s similarity to
North America or Europe. Others however, who may yearn for more of a cultural
difference, might be happier in a place like Ecuador or Peru.
But if you’re among the many who
would like a reasonably-priced second home, where you can escape the North
American winters and live among an honest culture, then Chile could well
be for you.
If you’d like some help getting
around
The best resource I’ve found for
those who are considering moving to Chile is a couple of IL readers who’ve
already done it. Gary and Bonnie Paulsson have settled into the Lakes Region
with their family and can assist you with anything you need to follow in
their footsteps—anywhere in the country. They’ll also help you with residency
and getting settled in. Take a look at their website at: www.chile-yen.com.
Pay up before you enter
There’s a “reciprocal fee” imposed
on citizens of certain countries that is paid upon entering Chile. The
tax varies depending on your country of citizenship as follows:
USA, $100; Canada, $55; Australia,
$35; Mexico, $15. Bring the cash with you, as you must pay the tax before
you clear immigration. Once paid, it’s good for the life of your passport,
even if the rates go up.
To buy or to build?
Good quality construction that approximates
U.S. standards will cost about $65 to $70 a square foot, including the
contractor and architect. If you act as your own contractor, you’ll save
about 15%. Vacation homes may be considerably less, but will lack insulation,
thermal windows, and central heating.
|
. |
...
This article is
excerpted from International Living Newsletter - You can subscribe to International
Living to receive their great newsletter delivered right to your door |
|
|
Don’t
come just for the beaches
If you glance
at a map, it will appear that Concepción is on the coast. It’s actually
several miles inland and there are no beaches to speak of unless you drive
a few miles either north or south of
the city.
Going south,
the first decent beach I found was 45 minutes away at Chivilingo, which
was on a quiet cove surrounded by mountains covered with pine and eucalyptus
trees. Going north, head to Tome—about a half hour from Concepción.
It is nestled in a wide, sweeping cove. The area was surrounded by wooded
hills and the town looked more Spanish Colonial than typical Chilean.
Personally,
I would not move to Concepción just for the beaches; there are much
better places in Chile to go if you’re looking for a seaside destination.
I think of it an alternative to Santiago, even though Santiago is more
than 10 times its size. It has all the essentials—including a rich cultural
life and an airport—along with a more vibrant, young-at-heart feel. Yes,
it lacks Santiago’s huge variety of amenities; but it also lacks Santiago’s
traffic congestion and renowned smog.
. |
..
..
| Links
to other related sites and resources
|
.
... |
