To be an Islander
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Got What It takes To Be An Islander?
By Robert Miskimon
 September 2006
The act of moving to an island is a bit like falling head over heels in love.  We're swept away by beauty, a sense of otherworldliness, and a natural high that really rattles the endorphins.  In such a state, we feel blessed, joyous, excited, thrilled even.  Just like love, if it's real we learn to love things about the other person (or island) that are deeper than surface appearances and the relationship puts down roots, blossoms, and endures for a long time. Living on an island is like living with someone you're madly in love with.  It's important to pay attention to reality while we're floating on the pink cloud that will, inevitably, evaporate and bring us back to earth.

So you've found your perfect island paradise, far from the freeways, shopping malls and general madness we call civilization?  Before you pack, there are several lessons that I'd like to share learned from more than 15 years of living on islands, St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands and Vashon Island, Washington.

Although both islands are part of the United States (St. Thomas is a US possession and Vashon Island a part of Washington State) and share a common currency, they are as different as, say, Duluth, Minnesota and Tippo, Mississippi.  But they have something else in common as islands with all the quirks and delights that make island life fascinating and challenging.  They demonstrate that becoming an islander is as much a state of mind as it is a physical address.

Despite the familiar eye-popping photos of the Virgin Islands with diamond-clear waters,  cream-colored beaches, and gently swaying palm leaves, don't be fooled about St. Thomas.  It's a bustling, throbbing hub of frenetic life that never rests.  True, there are serene beaches, such as Magen's Bay, where you can find that almost pristine tropical beach with soothing tradewinds not too far from Charlotte Amalie, the commercial and governmental centre where cruise ships from all over the world regularly visit.

In terms of serenity, St. John with its protected national park status is probably the gold standard in the American Virgins.  St. Croix, just a short seaplane ride from Charlotte Amalie, is large, mostly flat, and agricultural.  The town of Christiansted, like Charlotte Amalie, bears a Danish name that reflects its history as a possession of that Scandinavian country from which the United States purchased the islands in 1917.

So, lesson number one is to be prepared for the unexpected when relocating to an island.  There is a powerfully seductive force that islands exert on mainlanders so powerful at times that it can overwhelm what is sometimes referred to as "reason" in otherwise rational folks.    Real estate agents, of course, are familiar with this giddy vulnerability which is why it's probably not a bad idea to rent somewhere before buying, particularly if you haven’t already spent a lot of time visiting your island destination.

Having made that Serious Point, I must confess that when I arrived by ferry at Vashon Island after a mere 15 minute ride from Seattle, I was so captivated by its lush greenery and peacefulness, I muttered to my wife as we approached the dock: "We're home."  Then we proceeded to buy a house on a cliff overlooking Puget Sound after just one day of scouting island properties.  I certainly have not regretted my decision, but if I'd made such a sudden move in my days as a reporter for The Daily News of the Virgin Islands and bought property on St. Thomas, I would have lived to regret it.  More on this later.

One reality that I've found to be true in both my island experiences is the stigma attached to newcomers.  When our heads are in the clouds, or the hibiscus, we may well be oblivious to this at first.  But when I moved to St. Thomas as a white "continental," I was in a racial and cultural minority.  For someone who grew up as a fairly enlightened person in the American South, it was definitely eye opening to be in a barely tolerated racial minority for the first time.  At every turn, I felt the urge to try to explain to natives that they shouldn’t judge me by my skin colour.  Except for my somewhat protected status as a white reporter on the native-owned Daily News, my sense of ostracism might have been much worse.

This dawned on me clearly when, one Sunday morning, I ran to the front door to see what on earth was going on outside.  Impassioned voices boomed loudly over a public address speaker, and hymns were sung in a Calypso accent that roused me from sleep on my one day off.  As I opened the door, I beheld a mobile church service underway on my front yard.  The preacher stood, back to my house, facing the drop-in congregation with microphone in hand, exhorting them to abandon their lives of sin and find salvation.  At 7 a.m.  All around, there was a sea of black faces staring at me as I poked my head outside.  After a quick consultation with my wife, I decided the wisest course was to quietly endure the onslaught with no protest.

And when I moved to Vashon Island, Washington years later, I was stigmatized because I came from California. Once again, I wanted to explain to people that although I'd moved here from California, I wasn't a Californian by virtue of my birth in Virginia.  Even on this lily-white island lingers a resentment against Californians who cash in their Golden State mortgages and use their ill-gotten gains to buy expensive island properties thus inflating the local economy and making life tougher for the struggling natives.  In both cases, unreasoning discrimination that I never anticipated presented unpleasant realities that simply wouldn't go away.

I solved the problem of discrimination in the case of St. Thomas by moving back to the states with my wife and infant daughter, and chalking my Caribbean venture up to "experience."  I 've coped with the California stigma by simply hanging in and becoming a part of the community long enough to be accepted.  At one point, I got so tired of continually being asked the question: "So what brought you to Washington? " that I formulated my own smart aleck answer guaranteed to halt that line of inquiry: "A car."  Another riposte to a query about one's geographical origins: "I'm more concerned with where I'm going than where I've been."  After a period of time, people get as tired of asking you where you came from as you do in answering the question. 

Moving to an island, we confront a strange duality in our natures.  The same need that impels us to seek solitude, serenity, and the peaceful healing we imagine an island will provide, also produces isolation.  If you're a monk, you've pretty much made a vow that holy isolation is your chosen path.  If you're just another frenzied American who wants to get away from the rat race, you need to be prepared to deal with isolation - some of it consciously chosen and some that results from xenophobia.  (Incidentally, if you want a hilarious and entertaining introduction to the experience of moving to a remote island, read "Don't Stop the Carnival" by Herman Wouk. People in St. Thomas are still trying to figure out who the real life models were for his characters that dance on the fictional island of Amerigo).

Isolation can be nurturing for the soul or drive us mad, depending on how we handle it.  That's why it's a good thing to consider before making your move what kind of community or support network you'd like to develop on the island.  If you're religious, it's a good idea to find a church you like. If spiritual, you can learn to transform those walks on the beach to time of prayer and meditation.  If you're a recovering person, there's a good likelihood that you can find AA meetings just about anywhere on the face of the earth.  The important thing is to be aware that you will need your support system as much, or more, after making your move to an island.

Since you wanted an adventure in moving to an island, don’t freak out when unexpected "adventures" occur.  It's important to develop a Zen way of dealing with daily life.  For example, when I lived in the Virgin Islands it wasn't uncommon to be speaking on the telephone while another, phantom conversation was going on in the background. 
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 - Article Continued From Above - 

This ephemeral conversation resulted from some weird crossover between phone circuits which, while maddening at times, one needed ultimately to accept.

Another unexpected consequence: having to purchase fresh water from a barge.  Because our home in St. Thomas used cistern (rain) water, during dry periods it was sometimes necessary to purchase a truckload of fresh water, brought to use from a barge that had carried it from Puerto Rico. 

On Vashon Island, winter storms (and sometimes even traffic accidents) can knock out electrical power to a sizable portion of the island for hours or even days.  This is where "romance" is helpful, especially if you and your significant other like fireplaces, candles and snuggling.  It's nice to be nestled so deeply in the heart of nature, and one must learn to loosen one's grip of dependence on such modern conveniences as electricity and regular ferry passage to the mainland during these severe winter storms.  Even during good weather, the state-run ferries that connect Vashon Island to Seattle and Tacoma can be cantankerous.  They frequently break down, usually during times of high traffic as commuters are trying to get to their mainland jobs.  Once again, the island dweller must learn to accept these little inconveniences or go slowly insane.

And then there's the business of "island time" versus mainland time.  Island time doesn't require clocks, because they would only impinge on one's freedom to move about at will.  With island time, it's only necessary to communicate a general sense, or intent, to be someplace at a theoretical time, with the proviso that anything could change that - from a sick goat that needs to be taken to the veterinarian to a long-lost cousin from Kansas who just dropped in at the airport to an overwhelming need to lie on the beach.  Since everyone else moves on island time, the newcomer needs to become quickly familiar with this unique island characteristic. 

Although it will eventually dawn on you if you live on any island long enough, it's helpful to know when you arrive that while the island may be a quaint paradise to you, to the natives it's their home.  True, there are many islands with fascinating scenery, marvellous beaches, excellent restaurants, natives who speak and act in amusing ways, it's helpful to the newcomer to remember to respect those things and people for the unique gifts they are.  To the native Thomian who speaks a Calypso patois dialect, your perfect mainland English may sound strange and incomprehensible.  In fact, I discovered that many native Virgin Islanders believe other places beyond the Caribbean must also be islands.  To the Puget Sound island native, Californians are greedy exploiters of the earth with no regard for nature.  Culture shock can be a learning experience or a frightening moment of truth that will make you reexamine your own beliefs and values.  It's up to you.

When you go to the supermarket on St. Thomas expecting to find a nice thick rib roast and discover the meat counter packed with goat meat, consider it an opportunity for growth.  If the lights flicker and then die while you're writing your novel on Vashon Island, think of the poor bastard who wrapped his car around the telephone pole down the street and see if you can render assistance.  When hurricane season begins in the Caribbean, get out your lantern and join one of the many impromptu "hurricane parties."  Even though the Washington State Ferries can be a major pain in the neck, when the state proposes a bridge from Vashon Island to the mainland join your neighbors in raising a horrific opposition.  When you can do all that, you're on your way to becoming a real islander.
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