The other face of Honduras
There’s more to mainland Honduras than the Caribbean coast, and this country of almost seven million people is one of the most diverse you’ll find anywhere. Honduras - not Costa Rica - is the most forested country in the region, with 47% of its land still a wooded area.  Its rushing rivers draw whitewater rafters from around the world, and the cloud forests host a staggering array of flora and fauna.  The climate is temperate in the mountains, and subtropical in the coastal areas. 

A well-maintained highway takes you from the lowlands into the sierra.  On the way, you’ll go through the attractive colonial city of Comayagua, a former Honduran capital situated here to take advantage of the silver mines in the area.  According to local knowledge, this clean, orderly city was founded in 1537, and was the site of the country’s first bank in 1741.  We were surprised to learn that there are about 200 or so North American expats living nearby, many of whom came to do missionary work and decided to stay.

Arriving in Tegucigalpa (the capital), you’ll find a study in chaos when it comes to city planning.  The central square and cathedral look well organized, but the former silver mining settlement seems to have just spread out at random from there.  It has some exclusive and stately neighbourhoods - comparable with any you’d see in the world - as well as areas of poverty, crime, and ramshackle buildings.  But the city has everything you could want, from exciting nightlife to fine restaurants, culture, malls, and an international airport. 

The food in Tegucigalpa - and, in fact, throughout mainland Honduras - is great.  The strong Mexican influence has had a delightful effect on the already-unique blend of Caribbean and Central American cuisine.  It’s not unusual to see a fondue of Mexican cheese or chorizo served with tortillas, along with a blackened grouper or jerk chicken, with gallo pinto (beans and rice) on the side.  Of course, international cuisine is here, too, but I found the local fare more interesting. 

Would I live in Tegucigalpa? Honestly, no.  There are other Third World cities that would be higher on my list.  But there were some surrounding areas where I’d be glad to settle.

The Valley of Angels
Twenty minutes from Tegucigalpa is the village of Santa Lucia, located at about 5,000 feet in the mountains surrounding Tegucigalpa, near an area known as Valle de Angeles (Valley of Angels).  The town looks almost medieval, with its narrow, winding cobblestoned streets, stone walls, and old Spanish architecture.  A sparkling white church lies at one end, and at the other there’s a wooded town park with a small lake at its center. Lush, green mountains rise majestically around the town.  While Santa Lucia enjoys a fair stream of visitors, it maintains a residential feel.

Just a bit farther along the road in the Valle de Angeles is the small town that bears the valley’s name.  This artisan village - with its souvenir shops, coffee houses, and stately colonial church overlooking the town square - is surrounded by 100-mile views of the most dramatic mountain scenery.  Like much of the mountainous areas around Tegucigalpa, the tall pines and hills are reminiscent of the Rockies or the Sierra Nevadas around Lake Tahoe.  As in Santa Lucia, the altitude of about 5,000 feet provides for moderate weather year-round. 

At first, I assumed that property prices would be high, given the beauty of the valley and its proximity to the nation’s capital.  But, I found them to be reasonable. For example, a large, 2,400-square-foot home in El Chimbo, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms, a high front porch, as well as mango, banana, coffee and lemon trees, was listed for $70,000.

Whether you’re looking for a property or not, Santa Lucia and Valle de Angeles are worth a visit if you’re in Tegucigalpa.  Set aside enough time to do a bit of craft shopping while you’re there. 

For more information on living in or retiring to Honduras, see: 
www.internationalliving.com/honduras