Strange to be on land, this time in Venezuela-a massively complex country with destinations as diverse as La Gran Sabana, Los Llanos - full of unusual  animals, birds and massive snakes;  Angel Falls and the grandeur of Canaima, spooky with lore and history;  refreshing Merida positioned in the Andes;  the Rios Amazonas and Orinoco, homes to some of the world’s most primitive peoples.  These and many more can be visited with the aid of a tour company or on one's own.  With time and proper planning, these destinations make the memories of a lifetime.  But, they all are positioned many kilometers away from where your boat is in the dusty, mucky boatyard or our all too familiar marina surrounded by murky waters.

What about those times when you say, “Hey, I need a break for a few days! But I don’t have much time.”  There is a place for you only about one hour south of the boat yards in Puerto la Cruz. Grab a cab or porpuesto (around $20.00 US) and head in the direction of San Mateo.  There you will find a charmingly rustic hacienda, owned and smoothly operated by Franco and Chantal Ceruti with son, Doug and daughter Anais.  In addition to being my ‘oasis’, it is a true working ranch.  My room (70,000 Bs or around $29.00 US per night), off the main house opening onto a flower-filled courtyard was quiet, cool, clean and comfortable. (There are other rooms for 20,000 Bs less, off the stables but I chose to be closer in.) 

Hato Huevo is a nearby oasis for the weary cruiser who must hide from the ‘tormentas’ for the whole summer and with all the work, doesn’t have a lot of time or simply needs a breathing spell.  Here is a place to find a tranquil getaway and a place to retouch nature, llanos style.  If you go on any weekday, you may be the only visitor, as I was - the weekends are very busy with the local Venezuelans enjoying this special place.

The sounds you hear will be pure nature.  The air is clean and clear and the only “herding” going on will be by the ranch hands gathering up the patient cattle at the end of the day.  This 1000 hectare ranch supports an eclectic mixture of horses and cattle, pigs, dogs, birds, capybaras, tortoises, a couple of monkeys, one cat and a host of different species of animals and birds, some caged, and a whole lot more flitting around and squawking in the trees.  On this property which literally goes for miles and miles, there are several lagoons filled with birds.  Wild flowers and lots of trees abound.  If you become bored, you can watch the leaf cutter ants carry their ‘parasols’ into their enormous hills off the porch.  These cuttings will grow the mold which is the ant’s favourite food.

My typical day at Hato Nuevo went like this:

At first light, I wandered down to the stock yard to watch the cattlemen work.  One was milking a cow.  Yes, this went into my strong fragrant morning coffee.  Help yourself to an unlimited supply from the big urn behind the bar.  While walking through the pastures, I spotted more than 50 Southern Lapwings.  Finally I was able to identify these elusive birds, seen in the area of the boat yard as well.  I returned to a scrumptious breakfast with eggs, home-baked bread and local fruits nicely capped off by freshly squeezed orange juice.

I couldn’t wait to get out and walk for miles in the green countryside.  The trails extend from the main house in several directions and you can go as far as you like.  It’s best to start early as mid-day in the llanos (plains-like land) can heat up uncomfortably.  But the shade of a tree helps a lot. I counted many different species of birds, most of which I had not seen before.  This is to be expected here in Venezuela where they have more species than almost any other country.  Not tiring of this, but getting a bit warm, I returned to the cool, wide welcoming porch surrounding the main house.  I knew I could get a refreshing drink from the bar and have lunch in the lovely and quiet dining room.  The main open aired lobby is decorated with Venezuelan artifacts and loads of fresh tropical flowers.

After lunch as I eased myself into my chosen comfortable chair with my book, fending off my new found friend Pasqualino, the scruffy donkey.  In fact, we spent some time nose to nose as I tried to convince him my bracelet was not edible.  He took a shine to my Gatorade as well.  Could he be bored?  Possibly, as I was the only guest.  After not a lot of convincing, he wandered off into the lobby to search for ice cream wrappers in the trash.  I heard Chantal, my gracious hostess, shooing him out.  Non-plussed, he sauntered out to take up with a graceful dappled grey horse grazing peacefully just off the patio. 

This day passed slowly and languidly into the evening.  I don’t remember when I have had so much time to read and relax.  The anticipated cool afternoon breeze had piped up.  My entertainment was not solely confined to my book as the delightful young daughter of the rancho, Anais, added some diversion with her own little animal show - star performer Linda: the baby Rottweiler.  Supporting cast: two pugs, Harold- the LARGE and friendly Rottweiler and Trudy the cat.  Of course, Pasqualino returned to appear in his role of buttinsky.  A very welcoming, pleasant and happy family these.

With a tasty cocktail made of vodka, triple sec, sugar and a loads of squashed fresh limes over ice(caipirina) in hand, I wandered outdoors and watched a peach and rose coloured sunset. 

Finally, I enjoyed a dinner of fresh marinated beef (you guessed it, from the Rancho), in a light herb and wine sauce, rice, fresh vegetables and special breads with olives, and cheese accompanied by a delicious glass of rich Chilean wine.

The next day began with coffee accompanied by Trudi, the cat.  I had another wonderful breakfast after which I changed clothes for my trail ride.  It’s best to bring hiking boots along for this and the nature walks. ‘Teva types’ are challenged.

Jose, a young ranch hand, headed me up and off we went at a leisurely pace (thank you!) for an excursion into the bush.  I had been told that often, flocks of macaws can be scared into flight; not for this trip but how could one be disappointed instead with a large and noisy flock of small green parrots, two very large hawks and a huge sinister turkey buzzard claiming the top of a dead tree?  Among many others, were blue birds and scarlet tanagers, great Kiskadees and red-crowned woodpeckers.  Of course, as a water person, the birds in the lagoons were more familiar.  Finally I gave up trying to count the butterflies!  Yet another very welcome dose of utter silence but for the sounds of nature and the slow clopping of the horse’s hoofs.  One hour was enough for me after so many years and I sure got my 12,000 Bs worth.  If needed, there are enough horses to take 4 or more people.

Hato Nuevo operates on the ‘pay later’ plan.  This means that you are not bothered by ‘la cuenta’ (the bill) after each meal, drink or ice cream.  And tipping along the way is not encouraged.  When you settle your account, a reasonable tip (propina) is accepted.

This place is just the ticket for a badly needed recharge.  Refreshed, I returned with a smile to my boat in Aqua Vi Marina to tackle the last of the work before sailing north to my home port in the Virgin Islands. 

To find out more about this lovely spot, visit www.enoriente.com/hatonuevo  (be patient if the site is slow to load, or click on “posadas” on the home page of ‘enoriente’.)  Also, be prepared with your Spanish translation book.  No English is spoken here but we got along just fine.  Chantal, who is from France, of course speaks French.