| Brazil
or Bust: Catching Up |
| By Andy
Neill |
| August
2006
As the subtitle
indicates, it’s been a while since my last words on living in Brazil. This
is meant to bring you up to date with what’s been happening and some of
the interesting people who have passed through Fortaleza and our lives.
Let’s go back
to just after Thieny and I were married - that would be October of 2004.
I took you through my experience with a “fixer” named Ze.
He really did
assist with the marriage, so I thought we might have a similar result with
buying a car….if a Brazilian car dealer sees a “gringo” coming the
price tends to double! |
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| I handed Ze
a lot of money...over R$15,000...because we had looked at several cars
of the type I wanted and that was the going rate.
After more
than a month of false starts and being put off, it became evident to me
that Ze was not doing anything about getting me a car, so I asked
for my money back. Well, he didn’t like that too much.
After talking
to several people who were more familiar with this type of thing, it appears
Ze had invested my money in some other vehicle or vehicles and was in the
process of moving them between various “clients”. At one point,
he tried giving me an old Ford Courier pickup as part of the deal.
I ended up
going to a lawyer who finally got Thieny and I to meet with Ze and the
local area police chief, called a Delegado. As we went in to meet him,
my lawyer asked me if I had R$300! “What’s that for?” I asked.
“The Delegado has to be paid or he won’t even look at your case!”
Just one demonstration of how corruption seeps into every part of Brazilian
life! There was nothing else we could do and in the end we did get
most of the car money back. |
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| The upshot
of the whole saga was that I bought a car on my own and was left
several thousand Reals short by the crook! I didn’t realize just
how big a crook until my lawyer ran his name on the police computer and
found eight criminal charges and an almost equal number of civil cases
against him.
Two lessons
can be learned from my experience...Don’t pay for any services up front,
and make sure you get receipts. These two things may not solve every
problem you have, but there is at least a better chance of keeping your
money in your pocket instead of someone else’s.
A somewhat
normal life filled the next six to eight months, as Thieny and I got used
to living together as a married couple. There were rough times, no question
- putting together two different cultures, languages, ages and, at least
to some extent, classes. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| We had to
overcome almost every obstacle a married couple can have, but we have done
it, at least so far!
Thieny’s older
sister, Daisy (she has three sisters, two that live in Fortaleza and
one in Sao Paulo)...looks after the apartment for us, cooking, cleaning
and washing, things for “The Princessa”, as I like to call Thieny.
To be honest, Daisy is an angel who also looks after Thieny’s 5 year old
son, Israel, when we are not here. She is very used to that,
being his “tia” or aunt. She even does his homework
with him!
One of the
great moments for us came on our first anniversary. I took Thieny
to Guaramiranga, a mountain about 80 kilometres away from the coast.
She had never been into the mountains but always wanted to go there.
I described a little of Guaramiranga in a previous which is linked at the
bottom of this one.
We stayed in
the Hotel Escole. It’s a government run place where they do official
training for various organizations. When there is no training going
on, they rent out the rooms just like a regular hotel. |
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| They have
a big dining room and on the Saturday night, I ordered a special dinner
plus a cake and flowers. Thieny was actually speechless! t was very
beautiful.
I still remember
the first morning...we came down for coffee early and the fog was rolling
in clouds through the valley, just outside the windows. Thieny just
stood there with her mouth open! She had never seen anything like
that before, and I was amazed as well.
Right next
door to the hotel is a restaurant that I described in my first article:
“Speaking
of artists, Villa Lautrec, a restaurant featuring French cuisine, is located
on the outskirts of Guaramiranga. It’s named, of course, for
the famous French artist and is one of the most amazing eating places I
have ever seen. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Built inside
an old flour mill, with the exterior left intact, complete with water wheel
and a huge pond covered with water lilies, it would be at home anywhere
in the world. The view at night, with the pond surrounded by dim
lighting only a few inches off the ground, is truly spectacular and I found
it breathtaking. The sound is of hundreds of frogs letting potential
mates know their whereabouts. There are huge picture windows so patrons
can enjoy the view. The food was truly world class, and inexpensive
by North American or European standards.
Attached to
the restaurant is a rather unique bar, with construction of dark wood,
where I spotted some of the locals who own weekend homes in the area.
Apparently there is a very well-heeled community surrounding Guaramiranga
that “weekend” there as an escape from the beach heat of Fortaleza.
The restaurant has a decidedly European flavor, with one lady seated at
the bar waving one of those foot long cigarette holders! The
town is also home to a famous jazz festival and has a well maintained arts
community.”
This year has
been highlighted by our purchase of a small “lanchanete”.
It’s in a non-tourist area of Aldeota, away from the beaches, and its clientele
are the local Fortalezans. Thieny has set it up well and runs the
day-to-day operation, with the help of her other, older sister, Guaraseana,
who handles the kitchen and supervises when Thieny’s not there. It’s
been a real learning experience for me when Thieny and I have gone to other
parts of the city, away from the tourist areas, to shop for supplies.
The prices are lower and can sometimes be changed with a little haggling!
I also have
a new business called Fortaleza Adventure, which assists people coming
to Fortaleza for the first time and who may not speak Portuguese.
Sometimes, even people who have been to Brazil a number of times but perhaps
have never visited the northeast can take advantage of my services, such
as meeting real estate agents and legal people, if their intent is to buy
property. www.fortaleza-brazil-realestate.com |
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